MCP 350 is 3/8 to 1/2 id worth doing?

I saw charts showing that the pump performs better with the mod. I looked at the actuall mod and it doesn't look that hard. The only thing that bugs me is use of glue. I never had luck with glue and parts usually came apart. I am just afraid that if I would peform that mod and one day just touch pump just a little, the inlet would get loose and strat leaking.

I thought about that too but decided that the 655 pump was a better solution for what I wanted. It's not as quiet and doesn't have the head, but it has higher flow rates and is native 1/2"

most people use epoxy, which is pretty strong. Even though you dont need much, if you are paranoid you can use a lot. I have not done the mod myself, but i have not heard of anyone doing it and messing up

you could always purchase a plexi top that uses threaded fittings.

meionm said:

The only thing that bugs me is use of glue.

Click to expand...

Epoxy isn't like regular glue. It's strong enough that you could cast a whole new top out of it if you had a mold. If you follow the instructions carefully, the new barb should be very permanent.

Edit: This is totally unecessary for the mod, but if it helps you sleep, get some plumber's epoxy putty too. You can work it like clay at first, but it cures into a strong plastic. It's intended to make permanent repairs and and joints in plumbing that sees much higher pressure than your pump can produce, hence you know it's strong enough. Use the regular epoxy to attach the new inlet, and after it's cured use the putty to add a second seal and extra ridges for support. You'll probably want to practice with this stuff a bit before you apply it to your pump, because it can come out looking like the work of a skilled potter, almost like a machined part, or it can look like someone stuck a few blobs of grey clay on your pump. And once it cures, you're not getting it off.

I've had my modded pump running for a couple months with no problems.

The epoxy was strong enough for me to yank old 7/16 tubing off, and then push 7/16 back on, that epoxy really sets hard and a little bump isn't going to knock the barb off.

I did it too

I don't know what kind of epoxy you all use but I use Hysol Epoxy-Patch 615. I don't know where you can get it 'cause I get it at work. It's a Structural adhesive. It's unbelievably strong when cured. my buddy even put filled a crack in his tunnel ram on his race boat and used a torch on the adhesive and it wouldn't melt off.

I'd forget the plexi top. costs way too much and can be prone to cracking/crazing in time. I used a 3/8" x 1/4" npt barb. I cut off the inlet barb and filled it with my epoxy. Then I drilled the top and tapped it for the barb. Then mixed more epoxy and put it on the threads and threaded in the barb. I filled the 'circle' on the top with epoxy also and around the threads that was showing.

no leaks whatsoever.

also, I forgot. I cut a 1/2" barb off of a T and opened up the ID of it. Then I sanded down the mcp350 outlet barb so the 1/2" slipped over it real tight...actually had to tap it flush with a mallet...I used structural glue on that barb since there was hardley any clearance when I put the 1/2" barb on.

I did it as well ... my initial go at it was no good ... I forget what glue i tried on it... it came apart with handling during its leak test.
But I did it again with jb weld epoxy and it has been very solid ever since ... 6-9 months ago now. Like others said, leave enuf expoxy over the top of the pump to add thickness to reinforce the barb. I didn't use a threaded barb but that also sounds like a good idea for a stong connection.

I haven't touched mine since setup and has been running like a champ 724 ever since. I have heavy 1/2" reinforced (hard to work with) vinyl tubing on it since I was running it in an external case and through a wall.

For a second wc system i bought a 655 since it works out to the same cost once modded. But the 350 is nice for inside a case since it is smaller and slighly quieter, although niether would be noticable if you still have any fans going..

Just did it, keeping my finger croessed that I did well. Waiting for the glue to cure.

I wouldn't go to the trouble or risk of changing it, as the output of that setup won't be restricted by 3/8 tubing.

meionm said:

I saw charts showing that the pump performs better with the mod. I looked at the actuall mod and it doesn't look that hard. The only thing that bugs me is use of glue. I never had luck with glue and parts usually came apart. I am just afraid that if I would peform that mod and one day just touch pump just a little, the inlet would get loose and strat leaking.

Click to expand...

If you're worried about gluing things, why don't you buy the top that has the barb on top for it?

consumer9000 said:

I wouldn't go to the trouble or risk of changing it, as the output of that setup won't be restricted by 3/8 tubing.

Click to expand...

when you look at the charts, it's well worth it.
http://www.systemcooling.com/mcp350_mod-01.html

also, it's such an easy mod to do. remove the 4 screws, drill out the top. put the barb in and fill top with epoxy, let cure and replace.

I'm doing my 2nd one right now.

also, if you use a step down bit it's way easier to drill plastics.

thegreek said:

If you're worried about gluing things, why don't you buy the top that has the barb on top for it?

Click to expand...

I don't like that it's acrylic...don't trust that it won't crack/craze in time. plus they're expensive.

consumer9000 said:

I wouldn't go to the trouble or risk of changing it, as the output of that setup won't be restricted by 3/8 tubing.

Click to expand...

It's not about the 3/8" tubing, it's about 1/4" ID elbow at the pump inlet. Even the Alphacool top, which has a straight 1/4" ID inlet, has a much better flow rate than the stock top.
http://coolercasesuk.co.uk/showthread.php?t=931&page=1

I bought some plastic epoxy, glue the new inlet then I filled space around inlet with epoxy, hopely will hold.