Another noobs watercooling thread:

Yeah, recently i've been thinking of goin watercooling. I can find out parts on my own, for the most part. I know some basics, what i'd need for a setup and the likes.

Right now, i was thinking of a D4 or D5 for pump, TDX for CPU block, Maze4 for GPU block, 2x120 Rad (not sure what kind atm, maybe just a plain heatercore), and a res. I was thinking to put it in an external enclosure, as my case definately does not have enough room in it to put in a pump/rad/etc. I was thinking, build a box (sheet aluminum), and have two external barbs on the box. Inside the box is my rad, mounted on the top, pump, and res. On the back of my case, there would be another two barbs, which have the internal loop setup.

It would be as follows:


|||Res->pump->rad-|||-->||CPU->GPU-||-->|||Res

The ||| are the external box barbs, and the || are the case barbs (confusing )

I really don't care about sound, so i'd grab some monster fans.

My main questions are:

1) Where would I pick up antifreeze?
2) How on earth do I fill the res? I've heard syringe, is that correct?
3) How would I go about draining the system?

Those are the main questions i've had about watercooling. It seems you always need to fill the system absolutely packed to the last drop, to prevent destroying the pump.

Also, how much would all this run me, give or take (used or new, doesn't matter as long as it works).

a res should have an opening to fill it. it should be large enough to fit a standard kitchen funnel into.

antifreeze can be found at any auto part store. dont use to much. 10% is enough.

a good system res functions as both the input and output for the system when filling and draining but a res is not required. you can go with a t fitting and a valve at the end or even both

In my mind, i was thinking something like the attached, where red is WB, green is tubing, brown is rad, gray is res, purple/pink is pump, and blues are barbs. May even switch it around to put the res above the pump so the pump doesn't die from pulling air.

Thorilian: I was thinking res just for ease of use. 95% water/5% antifreeze should be fine in an all copper setup, right (though i'm not sure everything i'd listed is all copper).

Other than that, everything should be fine assuming i've built everything correctly.

tbh i would mount the rad against the left side wall and lenghthwise and get a single pass rad. have the pump directly under the resand to the right of the lower barb of the intake for the rad. then have the higher barb of the go to cpu

this is with a xflow single pass btw..

thorilan said:

this is with a xflow single pass btw..

Click to expand...

That looks good. Shouldn't be hard to make from scratch either.

I think when i scrounge up the cash that's what I'll do.

Thanks for the help!

as long as you're still in the designing process I have a couple suggestions.

first, try to get the res at the highest point in your loop and that will make bleeding the system easier
Also, a dual heater core is usually a bit cheaper than a double rad and often performs better.

as for cost...

tdx would be about 45-50 (you should consider a swiftech apogee)
double heater core 25 if you mod it yourself, 35-45 if you buy one pre modded
pump depends on what you want... probably 30-80
2x fans also depends on what you want... but 20-30 (can usually find on ebay for cheap)
res a swiftech micro res would probably be easiest to mount externally 15-20

hope this helps

soloz2 said:

as long as you're still in the designing process I have a couple suggestions.

first, try to get the res at the highest point in your loop and that will make bleeding the system easier
Also, a dual heater core is usually a bit cheaper than a double rad and often performs better.

as for cost...

tdx would be about 45-50 (you should consider a swiftech apogee)
double heater core 25 if you mod it yourself, 35-45 if you buy one pre modded
pump depends on what you want... probably 30-80
2x fans also depends on what you want... but 20-30 (can usually find on ebay for cheap)
res a swiftech micro res would probably be easiest to mount externally 15-20

hope this helps

Click to expand...

Double heatercore = two seperate heatercores? How would i go about "modding" one?

I was also thining of the apogee if I decided to upgrade to LGA775 or S939 in the future.

For a pump, i was thinking a swiftech MCP655 (DangerDen D5).

Res, maybe a DD cyllendrical or fillport res. I was also considering scrapping the res altogether and just getting a t-line.


Also, should i stick with 1/2" or 3/4"? I was thinking 1/2" ID for now.

1/2ID is proper. Double heatercore means 120x2, not 2 cores. Keep in mind the single pass setup thorilan suggested won't work w/o a specific rad config, and that calls for a blackice rad, I haven't seen many heatercores that are single pass.

citronym said:

1/2ID is proper. Double heatercore means 120x2, not 2 cores. Keep in mind the single pass setup thorilan suggested won't work w/o a specific rad config, and that calls for a blackice rad, I haven't seen many heatercores that are single pass.

Click to expand...

HardWare Labs make a single pass rad called the X-Flow its basically the BIX but single pass.

SolidxSnake said:

Double heatercore = two seperate heatercores? How would i go about "modding" one?

I was also thining of the apogee if I decided to upgrade to LGA775 or S939 in the future.

For a pump, i was thinking a swiftech MCP655 (DangerDen D5).

Res, maybe a DD cyllendrical or fillport res. I was also considering scrapping the res altogether and just getting a t-line.


Also, should i stick with 1/2" or 3/4"? I was thinking 1/2" ID for now.

Click to expand...

double heater core = modded 77 bonneville heater core. It's one heater core, just large enough to fit 2 120mm fans.

if you are doing an external setup you may want to consider an AC pump as it may just be easier for you having the pump external and all.

and go w/ 1/2" ID... or 7/16" ID would be better.

citronym said:

1/2ID is proper. Double heatercore means 120x2, not 2 cores. Keep in mind the single pass setup thorilan suggested won't work w/o a specific rad config, and that calls for a blackice rad, I haven't seen many heatercores that are single pass.

Click to expand...

Fedco 2-342 ...

http://webbase.transpro.com/catalog.php?partnum=399090

dremel off the long copper tubes, push some 1/2" tube on the stubs you left and use a hose-clamp...


EDIT:
almost any auto-parts store should have them (or can order them) and your looking @ about $20

joe you are the man. i couldnt find the links i used to have and that one is what i would sugest.

as for a res if its goingto be inside a box and not visible make it out of common white pvc with some epoxy. will save you some money and you can design it tto your exact needs.
you can make it a twist off top for filling . and yes you always want a real res at the top of the loop. forgot to throw that in when solo mentioned it.

Joe Camel said:

Fedco 2-342 ...

http://webbase.transpro.com/catalog.php?partnum=399090

dremel off the long copper tubes, push some 1/2" tube on the stubs you left and use a hose-clamp...


EDIT:
almost any auto-parts store should have them (or can order them) and your looking @ about $20

Click to expand...

Just out of couriosity I called buddy up, here in canada that heatercore costs $62

It's been demonstrated that those heatercores cost different amounts in different markets, plain and simple.

How about a BIP 3 X-Flow? It's a single pass 3x120mm radiator, and i'm sure it'll fit with a custom external enclosure...I think i'll just stick with a double heatercore for now.

I could scrap the whole res, right? Just stick with a teeline and a fillport? That would make things less expensive, and easier. also, I was thinking to make a lexan or acryllic enclosure for everything.

One thing i was wondering was how would i de-attach the loop from inside the rig to the enclosure? I'd like to be able to make my watercooling portable. I remember at Dugan's LAN, Krieger had a W/C kit (noob ), and when he got there, he just attached the tubing from the kit to the back of his rig and he was done. I could use a valve, correct? Put a valve inside the case, and then tighten it to stop flow, and then on the outside, same thing. Then after all the valves are tightened, i'd then disconnect the tubing, and no mess or need for draining. Or would that not work?

SolidxSnake said:

How about a BIP 3 X-Flow? It's a single pass 3x120mm radiator, and i'm sure it'll fit with a custom external enclosure...I think i'll just stick with a double heatercore for now.

I could scrap the whole res, right? Just stick with a teeline and a fillport? That would make things less expensive, and easier. also, I was thinking to make a lexan or acryllic enclosure for everything.

One thing i was wondering was how would i de-attach the loop from inside the rig to the enclosure? I'd like to be able to make my watercooling portable. I remember at Dugan's LAN, Krieger had a W/C kit (noob ), and when he got there, he just attached the tubing from the kit to the back of his rig and he was done. I could use a valve, correct? Put a valve inside the case, and then tighten it to stop flow, and then on the outside, same thing. Then after all the valves are tightened, i'd then disconnect the tubing, and no mess or need for draining. Or would that not work?

Click to expand...

Yup the BIP X-FLOW is very nice, you can also use low cfm fans on them and it still performs good!

New idea:

Apogee for CPU block
MCW60-B for GPU cooling
BIP2 XFlow
T-line
MCP655/D5 pump

i got my 2-342 on ebay - $1 + $7 shipping. it was used but I cleaned it up reall well and polished the copper sides. cut off the tubes and soldered on 1/2" barbs. using 7/16" Masterkleer.

do a search for heatercore on ebay.

-aDaM^ said:

Just out of couriosity I called buddy up, here in canada that heatercore costs $62

Click to expand...

WOW thats CRAZY!!

citronym said:

It's been demonstrated that those heatercores cost different amounts in different markets, plain and simple.

Click to expand...

ive picked up 4x just down the road @ .... advance auto parts and they were only 26 after tax.... cant believe import could jack it up THAT much...but anythings possible...