D-Tek white water broke / fixxable ?

R B Customs · May 6, 2006

i bought a Dtek white water second hand.
i havnt had the block appart but looking at it it sools liek the bottom plate is slightly bowed... as if the screws have been done too tigth and its levered ont he seals and bent it downt he length.

if have it against a metal ruler and it does appear to be slightly bent / not completly flat.

is this going to be a major issue ? obviosly it wont be gettign MAXIMUM contact with the CPU.

will i be able to lap this block? onlty ive heard that it is very thin on the base. and i can see trying to lap something that is U shaped and get it ont he peak of the bottotom of the 'U' is going to be difficult.

any suggestions or should i just not worry?

Arca_ex · May 6, 2006

Whats the translation for "sooled" and what do you mean by levered on the seals? Maybe it's just because I'm American but I'm trying to understand what it looks like, pics maybe?

R B Customs · May 6, 2006

hmmm... i cant quite work out sooled either ? lol blatant typo but of what i dont know ! lol.
anyway
think i may ahve meant that it seems like the bottom plate is bent
and by levered i mean that the seal is in the middle of the block ( from a plan view) ina big oval and the screws are out side the oval. my best guess is that the screws were done too tight and the seal doesnt have enough give to squash allt he way down so instead the copper has beant around it.
to be honest its probobly too subtle to take photos of... i think even lens distortion would make any perfectly flat surface look kinda curved... so ill go into MS paint !

okay this pic is HUGLY exagerated for illustration purposes only
the green 'bit' represends the rubber seal

DickH · May 6, 2006

lap it flat and call it good

Arca_ex · May 6, 2006

Maybe the o-ring isn't seated properly, only way to find out is to open it up.

R B Customs · May 6, 2006

Arca_ex said:
Maybe the o-ring isn't seated properly, only way to find out is to open it up.

yes but it apears to have physicaly bent the copper base as if puttong a sheet across a pipe and pressign on eiter end, it will bent the sheet.

trying to figure out the best way to lap it so that i get the pflat surface perpandicular (sp ??) tot he rest of the block. and im not sure how much thickness i ahve to play with here.

ive just took it appart, all seems to eb in order. althoug the bolts were Vert tight .
ive put it back togeather a little looser
and its seems a bit flatter.

Moto7451 · May 7, 2006

Try placing the base upside down and put something very heavy on top of it. That may bend it back to true.

Arca_ex · May 7, 2006

I don't know about bending it back, because that much movement in that type of metal starts to cause fatigue, lapping it that much would be dangerous, because high performance blocks dont have much to play with there. I've seen surfaces like it before that are bent, they still perform, maybe a total MAXIMUM of a 2-5 C difference. It's not that bad, but if your trying OC I would say trade it back if you can and buy a new one, I have a DangerDen RBX and it works pretty good for 50 dollars.

R B Customs · May 8, 2006

Arca_ex said:
I don't know about bending it back, because that much movement in that type of metal starts to cause fatigue, lapping it that much would be dangerous, because high performance blocks dont have much to play with there. I've seen surfaces like it before that are bent, they still perform, maybe a total MAXIMUM of a 2-5 C difference. It's not that bad, but if your trying OC I would say trade it back if you can and buy a new one, I have a DangerDen RBX and it works pretty good for 50 dollars.

yea im worried about lapping as it does look very thin.
i may just be paranoid, or it may just be that because the very edges of the bottom of the block are kinda rounded that it may be throwing my eye off abit.
ive juist lay it on a piece of 1/4'' acrylic after slackening the bolts off a bit and its seems to be alot more flat, but just how tight does the block aghve to be bolted to achieve a good non-leak seal ?

citronym · May 8, 2006

Not as tight as you may think. All you can do is test it out, when I replaced the barbs on my lucite maze3 I purposely left the bolts looser than they were, and after careful leak testing I was confident they were holding (and not working loose). Just be sure to leak test.

R B Customs · May 8, 2006

would you believe it....
afetr all of this ...
ive taken my old crappy water rig out of my PC and stuck the stock HSf back on ready for in a couple weeks when the rest of my stuff comes...

the block doesnt even fit on my board ! ( asus P5WD2-E Premium) as it doesnt clear the ( i think theyre either fets or capacitors) thiongs to the left of the socket, or above it.

so looks like im going to sell the block on and go for an RBX or something.
man im so annoyed !
it will go on but not central ( which is the whole point of a 3 barb block ! ) but even then its touchign those metal caps.

R B Customs · May 8, 2006

been reading around the forums and didnt find a complete answer btu it seems theres not alot of blocks out there that will fit my p5wd2-e premium

idealy im after a 3 barbed block. like the white water i have, or an RBX but those caps ont he board are a real pain !
any suggestions for a different, cheap, UK availible block ?
Rick

R B Customs · May 8, 2006

or how about this ?
cuttignt he green shaded arwea away ?
i cant take my SHF off to scheck if it will clear at the moment but the thought is there:

Arca_ex · May 9, 2006

HUGE NO NO! lol, you wouldnt be able to screw it down cutting it like that, bad bad bad

Moto7451 · May 9, 2006

Well he could screw it down if he used longer screws for assembling the block and modified the universal mounting plate so that it is bolted on with the help of the four main screws.

R B Customs · May 9, 2006

no no... the holes to the edges are redundant... i think theyre for some kind of other CPU socket.

im making a mount for my 775 mobo

the acctual bolt holes are the smaller ones ont he block, they wont be affected if i cut it.
but im seriously considering just selling the WW and buying an RBX, and at least that way i will have all the original mountings etc.

is it confirmed that the RBX will fit on my P5WD2-E Premium
this is just so typical of anything remotly after market

Flip-Mode · May 9, 2006

The cutting would work, the inner holes are used to screw the block and the outer holes are for Socket A.

R B Customs · May 9, 2006

socket A... thats what it is

still though, i need to clear the caps above the socket aswell.
if i knew if the RBX wouild fit the board it will be sold as soon as you can say ''where did ur Dtek go ?''

im gonna have to take that pathetic stock intel HSF toniight and have a propper look at what is hitting what. not lookign forward to putting it back on lol those thigns are a complete nightmare !

R B Customs · May 9, 2006

for reference

**EDIT**
ive just measured it all out in ophotoshop... i wont have to cut anything off but it means i wwill stuill ahve to mount it off centre which is less than ideal !
heres a pic:

red line = middle of block,
black = middle of socket / CPU
green box = aprox CPU IHS

Arca_ex · May 9, 2006

RBX all the way, that's what I have lol.

D-Tek white water broke / fixxable ?

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