• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Purchasing this today if all looks well - Please Look!

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

updawg

StarCraft II Fanatic
Joined
May 19, 2006
Location
NOVA
First I want to thank everyone for the help and support that has bene provided in the building of a water cooling system. Please take a moment to overview what I'm about to buy and if I need to purchase/change anything else before I place this order. I also added a window kit, hopefully all goes well!

Also are the cpu brackets compatable with a conroe system?

Case: Antec P180B

(possibly ordering)
Mobo: DFI Lan Party Ultra D
Processor: Opteron 165
GPU: eVGA 7900 GTX


Thanks in advanced,
Mike
 

Attachments

  • cart order.JPG
    cart order.JPG
    65 KB · Views: 310
Yeah those ramsinks should be fine, remember to get some artic silver thermal epoxy or artic alumina to attahc the ramsinks to the ram.

The storm should work fine on a conroe seeing how they put out less heat wattage than current gen CPU's. You might need to order new mounting hardware tho, but that shouldn't cost much.
 
I'm a bit confused I understand thermal paste is needed for attaching the heatsinks to the ram, but I was never instructed about on the gpu? Can you give more information? My ram has a heatspreader so they are not needed but what about the install on the gpu as he suggested.

Thanks,
Mike
 
thermal paste is got cpu/gpu

thermal adhesive is for ram sinks.

arctic alumina is a 2 chemical adhesive. so you mix the 2 syringes and then apply and stick on items for permenant or near permenant applications
 
Thanks I appreciate everything!

wish me luck!
 
Thorilan what would you recommend is better? The thermal adhesive or the artic alumina? The artic alumina is sounding like some form of epoxy (the whole 2 part chemical thing) so would that necessarily allow for better contact, heat transfer and making sure it stayed on there?
 
I have a question would an GT Xflow be better in this setup or no?

Thanks,
Mike
 
If I went with a bay resevoir instead of the danger den fillport resevoir and eliminated the t line could I do something that looks like my illustration below?
 

Attachments

  • setup.JPG
    setup.JPG
    7.6 KB · Views: 295
updawg said:
If I went with a bay resevoir instead of the danger den fillport resevoir and eliminated the t line could I do something that looks like my illustration below?


The radiator's barbs aren't in that shape. Also, thor has a few good points as to why a bay res isn't useful.
 
I was going with the gt stealth not the xflow so both the barbs are on one side if I'm not mistake, does the bay res hinder performance? I think It would be conveniant for me in my situation. Any further explination is welcome!

Thanks,
Mike
 
the barbs are sticking out the side at a perpendicular angle on radiators .
you would find it very hard to route it like you have in the drawing

i dont like the bay res usually because of poor design and they look tacky .

a res should trap air and make filling and bleeding easy but the horizontal nature of the bay res does not achieve this very well. you might as well go with the fill port and tline .
 

Attachments

  • res barb shape.JPG
    res barb shape.JPG
    5 KB · Views: 281
Just a little note that was missed in this thread.
Ideally you should have the rad before the blocks. If possible. Since you want the coolest possible water to go into the blocks for maximum delta temp. Exactly how much difference this actually makes in the real world I can't answer, but a few degrees wouldn't be out of the question I'd say.
 
Bad Maniac said:
Just a little note that was missed in this thread.
Ideally you should have the rad before the blocks. If possible. Since you want the coolest possible water to go into the blocks for maximum delta temp. Exactly how much difference this actually makes in the real world I can't answer, but a few degrees wouldn't be out of the question I'd say.
your rad should be before blocks where tubing allows for easy routing not res.
the coolant is at its coldest right as it exits the rad. you can test this with 2 probes mounted both before and after the rad . people say that the temps will equalize but it isnt so equal that ingoing temp = outgoing temps.
 
one thing about the RAM sinks....you can get OCZ sinks from DangerDen ....on the page for the GPU block there's a drop down menu to choose 8 RAM sinks or 16 RAM sinks
 
Bad Maniac said:
but a few degrees wouldn't be out of the question I'd say.
I would be amazed at a difference of a few degrees to be honest. Rad before blocks is good if it doesn't cost any sharp bends or extra tubing. Otherwise I would focus on shorter tubing with no sharp bends, personally.
 
One point about attaching the ramsinks. If you use adhesive, you will NEVER get the ramsinks off if something were to happen to your VC. Arctic alumina adhesive is permanent and you will almost certainly rip off your VC memory chips even if you mix it half/half with arctic silver 5 to dilute it.

I heartily recommend instead getting some sekisui #5760 thermal tape (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6884987465&ssPageName=MERCOSI_VI_ROSI_PR4_PCN_BIX) instead. This stuff sticks wonderfully, doesn't come off or work loose, and provides more than enough thermal transfer. I have been using it now for about 6 months and it doesn't budge. However, if you ever have to RMA your VC (like I did once), you can remove the ramsinks if you use this stuff.

Your other parts look good, and I second Thor's opinion on the bayres. I would opt for a Swiftech microres instead as it is a lot easier to place in the case.
 
looks good, but you may want to pick up 4 fans instead of 2 for the radiator

do a push/pull arrangement with 2 fans on each side - it will still be silent, but will increase airflow through the radiator significantly


-JR
 
Back