View Full Version : I will answer your short H2O questions HERE
johan851
06-11-06, 05:12 PM
It's summer. I'm bored. I've got a lot of free time on my hands today, tomorrow, and the next day, so I figured I would take some time and try to answer any basic watercooling questions you newcomers (or mid-newcomers, or oldercomers) might have. I've learned a lot from these forums, and have watercooled rather successfully for...oh, maybe 3-4 years now. Experienced people can feel free to chime in too - I'm by no means a master. I'll leave the mastery up to guys like Diggr and nikhsub.
This is really intended for questions that don't deserve a whole thread, and I'm hoping it'll help clean up some of the repeated issues we tend to here a lot. That said, if you've got a question...fire away. :D
say i have the loop i have now, would adding a 80mm BIX with a delta on it lower my temps?
my loop is mcp600>120mmBIX with panaflow highspeed>apogee>pump
im getting around 35c idle and 43 load, which seems a little high to me
ambient is about 70f, and im just wondering because adding an 80mm rad would be easy, no room for another 120 in my midtower.
i figured there wouldnt be too much restriction, with only one block in the loop
caddy359
06-11-06, 05:57 PM
do i have to use that wet water or will dry water do save me mopping up puddles - he he sos joke - nice of you to offer your time ! -)
johan851
06-11-06, 06:12 PM
say i have the loop i have now, would adding a 80mm BIX with a delta on it lower my temps?
my loop is mcp600>120mmBIX with panaflow highspeed>apogee>pump
im getting around 35c idle and 43 load, which seems a little high to me
ambient is about 70f, and im just wondering because adding an 80mm rad would be easy, no room for another 120 in my midtower.
i figured there wouldnt be too much restriction, with only one block in the loop
You might get a little more out of it but not a whole lot. Your load on the loop isn't particularly high, and won't be unless you grab yourself an Intel 8xx or 9xx series and run some volts through it. Even with a GPU block I wouldn't consider the radiator heavily loaded. Considering the extra cost, hassle of adding more to the loop, and additional noise from a delta, I would say that it's almost certainly not worth it. The difference between your idle and load temps isn't that bad, and 43C load isn't either, for that processor. Keep in mind that all boards report temps differently...as long as you've got a good overclock (and you do) then I wouldn't sweat it. One decent way to see if the radiator is the bottleneck is feel how warm the water in your tubes is. If it's pretty warm (or you see a big temperature drop when you increase radiator airflow) then you know that heat isn't dissipating quickly from the loop.
do i have to use that wet water or will dry water do save me mopping up puddles - he he sos joke - nice of you to offer your time ! -)
:D
those temps are pretty good for those clocks on an AXP anyway IIRC.
Real good actually.. thats about what I get on my AXP rig thats only at like 2.4ghz.. air of course but still
johan851
06-11-06, 06:59 PM
^ Yeah, same experience here...and I had two chevette cores, I think.
Arca_ex
06-11-06, 08:06 PM
I have dually BIXII's, works fine for me with amazing temps, never gets over 36 on either the CPU or GPU.
But here's my question, whats IIRC mean?! lol
dicecca112
06-11-06, 08:15 PM
if I remember correctly.
okay my question. Whats the current best water mixture? is there some cool additive out there or is distilled and antifreeze still the norm?
If I Recall Correctly... IIRC.
im using distilled water and hydrx..cuz it's green :shrug:
dicecca112
06-11-06, 08:28 PM
does it prevent the crud that forms on the tube? On my first go round, my tubes got so clouded
johan851
06-11-06, 08:42 PM
okay my question. Whats the current best water mixture? is there some cool additive out there or is distilled and antifreeze still the norm?
I think antifreeze is still the 'norm', at any rate, and I believe 5-10% antifreeze is typical for an all copper or copper/brass loop. Around 15% or more is recommended in a mixed metal loop like copper/aluminum. Of course, you should only be using the red 'dex-cool' stuff, not the cheap green kind.
As for clouds...well, I haven't yet figured out how to fix that. And it makes me sad. If someone knows how to fix clouding permanently I'm all ears.
Arca_ex
06-11-06, 08:54 PM
I use distilled water with 2 ounces of FrozenCPU UV blue water dye and 5 drops of betadine non alcohol iodine solution. My loop was only clouded for 2 days, the length after the pump that is from it churning up air, other than that i dont know how to fix clouding
Moto7451
06-11-06, 08:56 PM
Clouding depends on your tubing as well. Clearflex is supposedly very susceptible to clouding. Masterklear on the other hand doesn't seem to cloud what so ever. My vinyl tubing from US Plastics Corp also doesn't cloud.
citronym
06-11-06, 09:00 PM
Clouding depends on your tubing as well. Clearflex is supposedly very susceptible to clouding. Masterklear on the other hand doesn't seem to cloud what so ever. My vinyl tubing from US Plastics Corp also doesn't cloud.
I agree with the former, however, my Masterkleer clouded up in no time.
dylskee
06-11-06, 09:09 PM
Water cooling setup in my sig. Would adding another Dual 120MM radiator to my setup reduce temps or would i just be restricting flow? My idle temps are 26c and load from 36~38c.
Arca_ex
06-11-06, 09:54 PM
What is your ambient room temperature, then I can answer your question.
Moto7451
06-11-06, 11:06 PM
I agree with the former, however, my Masterkleer clouded up in no time.
Odd, what are you running through your loop? I'm currently using distilled + hydrx and I've used just straight distilled in loops with Masterklear and they've stayed crystal clear.
What is the best concentration of swiftech hydrx to a 16ounce bottle of distilled water. Ive heard ppl saying that what swiftech suggests is overkill.
If you are like me, you are too busy usually for your own good. But I have been thinking of different things that really would cut down on the repeated questions as far as stickies go. Some stickes that answer questions like what difference does adding extra rads make, what case to use, how does watercooling work (ie. the false idea that water needs to stay in the rad longer to cool), what difference does 3/8",7/16", or 1/2" make in performance, what is the best way to route blocks/pump/res t-line/tubing, pros and cons of different kinds of tubing, what clamps/ties to use, and what additives and mixtures to use are just to name a few that readily come to mind and that come up a lot. It would also save people a lot of searching as I realize that at times can be time consuming.
Yuriman
06-11-06, 11:57 PM
I have a question for you. What would you do to silence your chipset if you had the DFI nForce4?
http://home.earthlink.net/~eckyx3/13-136-152-02.JPG
I ask this here because I am watercooling my videocard and I would REALLY rather not move it down to the lower PCI-E slot, because there is a very good chance I will put the 2nd PCI slot to use. I'd like to watercool it, and was thinking about ordering the chipset block from EKwaterblocks, but what would you do?
Pic of my loop so far. (not done)
http://home.earthlink.net/~eckyx3/watercool/000_0484.jpg
I've always wanted to ask this question....where does water come from? LOL!
I have a question for you. What would you do to silence your chipset if you had the DFI nForce4?
I ask this here because I am watercooling my videocard and I would REALLY rather not move it down to the lower PCI-E slot, because there is a very good chance I will put the 2nd PCI slot to use. I'd like to watercool it, and was thinking about ordering the chipset block from EKwaterblocks, but what would you do?
Pic of my loop so far. (not done)
http://home.earthlink.net/~eckyx3/watercool/000_0484.jpg
Well I would use a zalman chipset cooler or something like that and put a fan on it with reduced rpms
johan851
06-12-06, 01:28 AM
Wow...guess the forums decided I no longer needed my email notification.
Water cooling setup in my sig. Would adding another Dual 120MM radiator to my setup reduce temps or would i just be restricting flow? My idle temps are 26c and load from 36~38c.
It depends on how quietly you want to run your fans, and like I said before, how much gain you get from increasing your fan speeds. Still, dual 120mm rads should be plenty for a loop with a CPU/GPU block unless you're running very low-flow fans. You can try it, but I think your gains (especially in terms of overclocking) would be minimal.
I have a question for you. What would you do to silence your chipset if you had the DFI nForce4?
I would grab an aircooler like the Zalman MCX159 here:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcchco.html
I have one and I've been very happy with it. I'm not sure on whether or not it will fit (I think it will, but you could Google that), but it's a fairly quiet solution that does a good job keeping things cool. Really, it's just a chipset, and trying to route tubing for a chipset waterblock, especially if you have two GPU blocks, will be a pain in the butt. It'll also add extra restriction. Chipset blocks are nice if you can pull them off, but I've found through a bit of experimenting that aircooling is a much more convenient solution for some of the things that don't get so hot.
I've always wanted to ask this question....where does water come from? LOL!
That's so like you Krag. Bringing your trash in here. :D
Yuriman
06-12-06, 02:27 AM
Nope, won't fit. I could do some sort of wierd hack-job and have some sort of S shaped heatsink, that would fit, but its too much work. :mad:
Plus, I'll need to fit a fan on it somehow, unless the heatsink is REALLY big.
Bad Maniac
06-12-06, 03:56 AM
Whats the current best water mixture?Distilled water, 5% antifreeze, water wetter, WV coolant or other anti corrosive/surfactant fluid (10-15% if using mixed metals in loop). And 3-5 drops of alcohol-free iodine solution to prevent growth.
where does water come from? LOL!Dinosaur Pee. (Why do you think we need to distill it? ;) )
citronym
06-12-06, 04:30 AM
Odd, what are you running through your loop? I'm currently using distilled + hydrx and I've used just straight distilled in loops with Masterklear and they've stayed crystal clear.
This was with 5% GM Dex-cool ethylene, dye and iodine. And in no time, what I actually meant was after 2-3 weeks there was a noticable haze.
The cloudyness doesn't really bother me too much.
dylskee
06-12-06, 04:46 AM
What is your ambient room temperature, then I can answer your question.
Usually 21~23c. I'm in the basement so it's usually pretty cool down here.
Rickster
06-12-06, 05:06 AM
if you were to recommend tygon tubing which one would you recommend
citronym
06-12-06, 05:34 AM
IIRC the favorite tygon around here is R-3606
QuietIce
06-12-06, 06:44 AM
Distilled water, 5% antifreeze, water wetter, WV coolant or other anti corrosive/surfactant fluid (10-15% if using mixed metals in loop). And 3-5 drops of alcohol-free iodine solution to prevent growth.
That was the biggest question I was left with even after doing some research, there are just too many differing opinions to sort through. It's also the one thing that's not discussed in detail in any of the stickies. Personally, I've pretty much settled on your formula but it's taken a lot of work to get there ...
SiGfever
06-12-06, 08:28 AM
if you were to recommend tygon tubing which one would you recommend
Tygon R-3603 1/2"id 3/4"od :beer:
Captain Helghas
06-12-06, 08:38 AM
I've always wanted to ask this question....where does water come from? LOL!
Oh oh oh I know. Can I take this one?!
The Sun's polarity (North and South) switch every 11 years from Jupiter's summer. This switch in polarity causing a massive expulsion of protons. These protons impact the ozone in the atmosphere and make O2 and OH-. The OH- then forms with other hydrogens to make water. Billions of years go by and we have the oceans.*
Interested in where the F this came from? Google Dr. Michael Kasha at FSU.
caddy359
06-12-06, 08:48 AM
and all along i thought it was from the tap :bang head
VballCoach
06-12-06, 08:52 AM
http://aerosafe.com/shopping/pgm-more_information.php?id=33&customernumber=&=SID&PHPSESSID=11d9c13ff30564a66e8a2702509a5166#MOREINF O
here's what I'm using in my loop with just distilled water. It's been crystal clear for 3 weeks now. I had my loop up without it for 3 weeks prior and I had 'spots' in the tubing after 2 weeks. I had a leak on my res and decided to repair/change the res location, cpu block, and redo my loop and add the Purogene. Temps are better, no leaky res and no 'spots'!! Loop looks great now. I'm using 7 1/6" Masterkleer..:)
Drinkyoghurt
06-12-06, 09:14 AM
my question.
i have the aquagate all in one watercooler(yeh wanted to start with the nub thing)
wil it be possible for me to buy bigger hoses and if so how do i connect them to the smaller connectors(the leak free ones..they need another connector which i have but it doesnt fit on big tubes for shure)
so is this possible?
johan851
06-12-06, 10:48 AM
if you were to recommend tygon tubing which one would you recommend
Yup, R-3606 is the most popular. I really like the Masterkleer 7/16" ID though - awesome tubing.
Nope, won't fit. I could do some sort of wierd hack-job and have some sort of S shaped heatsink, that would fit, but its too much work.
Plus, I'll need to fit a fan on it somehow, unless the heatsink is REALLY big.
Hmmm...then I've got nothing. Those cards are way too big...
This was with 5% GM Dex-cool ethylene, dye and iodine. And in no time, what I actually meant was after 2-3 weeks there was a noticable haze.
The cloudyness doesn't really bother me too much.
Did you clean the internals of your (copper) rad and blocks with vinegar or an acid that is similar?
Deathknight
06-12-06, 03:34 PM
Nope, won't fit. I could do some sort of wierd hack-job and have some sort of S shaped heatsink, that would fit, but its too much work. :mad:
Plus, I'll need to fit a fan on it somehow, unless the heatsink is REALLY big.
I have not actually used this HS, but it is designed specifically for the difficult to reach chipsets that are situated right under the videocard in the 1st PCI-E slot:
http://www.bigbruin.com/reviews05/jingting_1
Speedmonkay
06-12-06, 04:03 PM
Dinosaur Pee. (Why do you think we need to distill it? ;) )
:p
But seriously ...
Can we use pee as a coolant if we run it through coffee filters and have a single metal system ? It has a nice yellow color plus I ran out of distilled water.
johan851
06-12-06, 04:58 PM
^ Can't afford the $0.99 for another gallon of distilled water, huh?
bumsquad
06-12-06, 05:14 PM
I already bought some 7/16'' tubing, but just wondering still. If its too thick to get through the compressions fittings my zalman wb-2 block uses, should i like iono boil the ends and shove it through somehow? the compression fitting is made for 1/2'' OD and mines is 5/8''.
Speedmonkay
06-12-06, 05:19 PM
^ Can't afford the $0.99 for another gallon of distilled water, huh?
rough times .... saving for Conroe ....
Drinkyoghurt
06-12-06, 05:42 PM
can anybody answer me please?
Yuriman
06-12-06, 05:46 PM
I'm looking at these 2 chipset 'sinks.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/chchcojt.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/fochco.html
They appear to be similar... except one is copper, and one has a fan. I'm going to get the copper one, yea?
bumsquad
06-12-06, 06:00 PM
I'm looking at these 2 chipset 'sinks.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/chchcojt.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/fochco.html
They appear to be similar... except one is copper, and one has a fan. I'm going to get the copper one, yea?
wats the point, hardly ever does cooling down ur chipset increase clocks or anything. r u getting it just for looks?
striker85
06-12-06, 06:08 PM
or to eliminate a fan, that's why i added mine to my WC loop.
Yuriman
06-12-06, 06:18 PM
or to eliminate a fan, that's why i added mine to my WC loop.
Correct. The stock DFI fan screams, and due to the chipset's placement, you can't just put a regular heatsink there. I was going to get a chipset block, but that would be equally expensive, complicate my loop, and add extra restriction.
johan851
06-12-06, 07:26 PM
my question.
i have the aquagate all in one watercooler(yeh wanted to start with the nub thing)
wil it be possible for me to buy bigger hoses and if so how do i connect them to the smaller connectors(the leak free ones..they need another connector which i have but it doesnt fit on big tubes for shure)
so is this possible?
It's possible, but the gains you'd see would be pretty minimal. You've also realized the problem of trying to connect large hose to small connectors, which has potential for more leakage. There's two options, really, and I'm not sure if one is even valid. If all the connections and barbs in the kit are threaded, you could potentially replace all the barbs with ones that accomodate larger hoses. I know a couple of barbs in that kit are threaded. Otherwise, you should probably just leave it as it is.
I already bought some 7/16'' tubing, but just wondering still. If its too thick to get through the compressions fittings my zalman wb-2 block uses, should i like iono boil the ends and shove it through somehow? the compression fitting is made for 1/2'' OD and mines is 5/8''.
If it's too thick, you're really going to have to cut down on tubing size...that 7/16" is about as thin as I like to go on tubing. That's the hassle of waterblock compression fittings - they can be pretty picky. I prefer blocks with 'real' hose connectors. :D Boiling it might work, but I'm not sure. I don't think Tygon is going to be a better fit either. You can always check out ID/OD dimensions of tubing at McMaster.com to find something that'll fit exactly, or you could just get a different waterblock if you haven't picked up the Zalman yet.
I'm looking at these 2 chipset 'sinks.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/chchcojt.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/fochco.html
They appear to be similar... except one is copper, and one has a fan. I'm going to get the copper one, yea?
Yeah, the copper one would be the way to go. If you have an old fan sitting around that might help drop your temps a little. You could also hack the DFI fan out of the unit and 7v or 5v it. With a sink like that you don't necessarily need a lot of airflow, but just a little air moving through it will make a big difference over running it passively.
wats the point, hardly ever does cooling down ur chipset increase clocks or anything. r u getting it just for looks?
Pros:
Looks
Peace of mind
No added noise
Top-notch performance
No failing fans
Cons:
Can be a pain to route tubing
Can be expensive
Often overkill
Son1990
06-12-06, 07:44 PM
Just thought Id say your doing a great job in answering everyone questions. Keep it up man.
bumsquad
06-12-06, 08:06 PM
If it's too thick, you're really going to have to cut down on tubing size...that 7/16" is about as thin as I like to go on tubing. That's the hassle of waterblock compression fittings - they can be pretty picky. I prefer blocks with 'real' hose connectors. :D Boiling it might work, but I'm not sure. I don't think Tygon is going to be a better fit either. You can always check out ID/OD dimensions of tubing at McMaster.com to find something that'll fit exactly, or you could just get a different waterblock if you haven't picked up the Zalman yet.
Awww weak sauce. o well. if it turns out it doesn't fit even boiled or watever, i'm just gonna try finding some barbs that'll fit on the block. Although i'm not sure 1/2'' barbs will even work cuz i think the compression screw part is smaller as u can c in this picture.
http://www.overclockers.com/articles971/zal4.jpg
FSBxtreme
06-12-06, 08:40 PM
What's the optimal mixture of fluids so that you don't need to flush the system for a whole month? :D
I'm a newbie in watercooling. :D
dicecca112
06-12-06, 08:42 PM
back again is this the tubbing I want from mcmaster.com?
1/2" fittings FYI
5233K44 Masterkleer PVC Tubing 7/16" Id, 5/8" Od, 3/32" Wall Thickness
Thanks for all the help
Arca_ex
06-12-06, 08:51 PM
Usually 21~23c. I'm in the basement so it's usually pretty cool down here.
I would say no, because you are getting icredible temperatures as it is, it would kind of be overkill if you did, but it would definately add some bling factor.
Check out mine lol...
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j93/Arca_ex/100_1660.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j93/Arca_ex/100_1661.jpg
dylskee
06-12-06, 09:17 PM
Sorry, double post. Damn lagging internet connection!
dylskee
06-12-06, 09:17 PM
I would say no, because you are getting icredible temperatures as it is, it would kind of be overkill if you did, but it would definately add some bling factor.
Check out mine lol...
DAMN Arca_ex, thats what i call BLING FACTOR! Very nice setup bro, looks awesome. I would like to try the dual radiator thing but i think i'm going to wait until i get another case.
Arca_ex
06-12-06, 09:24 PM
Oh, and so you know thats like $250 in SwageLok compression fittings and steel piping. Got them for free off a wafer making machine that ASML was throwing out.
But anyways, I can show you the rest of my system if you want, just PM me.
kimochii72
06-12-06, 10:47 PM
I've just upgraded to sli, 2x7900gt's. I already have a storm waterblock on my Opteron 170 at 2900mhz. I want to cool both gpu's and cpu at the same time on a 2x120 swiftech radiator. I'm thinking it's not enough cooling power. The radiator I'm using measures 128x274x34mm. I'm thinking the PA120 would be a much better choice because it's nearly twice the thickness at 62mm thick, with nearly similar dimensions on the rest. I want to stay with 2x120 because I don't want to case mod and want to hang it on the back of my case instead. Is this 62mm radiator thickness going to compensate for the two added GPU's? My current radiator gets warm at the very top without GPU's attached.
johan851
06-12-06, 11:22 PM
Just thought Id say your doing a great job in answering everyone questions. Keep it up man.
Thanks. :D Just regurgitating what I've learned from all the wise people here, with a little personal experience tossed in.
Awww weak sauce. o well. if it turns out it doesn't fit even boiled or watever, i'm just gonna try finding some barbs that'll fit on the block. Although i'm not sure 1/2'' barbs will even work cuz i think the compression screw part is smaller as u can c in this picture.
Yeah, those do look pretty small. I'd measure and check anyway, though. Is it possible that this guy would do the trick?
http://www.crazypc.com/products/93453.html
What's the optimal mixture of fluids so that you don't need to flush the system for a whole month?
I'm a newbie in watercooling.
LoL. I've had this ~5% red antifreeze / ~95% distilled water in my loop for a year, and I recently emptied the system for transportation. What I removed from the loop looked perfectly fine, so it went right back in. A mixture like that in an all copper loop should last roughly forever. :)
back again is this the tubbing I want from mcmaster.com?
1/2" fittings FYI
Quote:
5233K44 Masterkleer PVC Tubing 7/16" Id, 5/8" Od, 3/32" Wall Thickness
Thanks for all the help
Yeah, that's exactly it. 7/16" ID makes fittings on 1/2" barbs a little tight, but it's definitely workable and should just make it all the more leakproof. The smaller ID is nice because it combines all the convenience (flexibility/size) of smaller ID tubing without sacrificing any discernable amount of performance.
I've just upgraded to sli, 2x7900gt's. I already have a storm waterblock on my Opteron 170 at 2900mhz. I want to cool both gpu's and cpu at the same time on a 2x120 swiftech radiator. I'm thinking it's not enough cooling power. The radiator I'm using measures 128x274x34mm. I'm thinking the PA120 would be a much better choice because it's nearly twice the thickness at 62mm thick, with nearly similar dimensions on the rest. I want to stay with 2x120 because I don't want to case mod and want to hang it on the back of my case instead. Is this 62mm radiator thickness going to compensate for the two added GPU's? My current radiator gets warm at the very top without GPU's attached.
That's a pretty solid question there. Two 7900GT's and a heavily OC'd Opteron is quite a bit of load, you're right. Staying with 2x120mm is a good choice...things get inconvenient if you get beyond that. A thicker radiator will certainly get you more cooling power, but additional thickness makes life a fair amount tougher on your fan. I'm still using two Chevette heatercores, and I've researched the problem of backpressure a fair amount. I'm going to throw these threads at you for reference...SPCR has some very knowledgable users:
http://forums.silentpcreview.com/viewtopic.php?t=17002
http://forums.silentpcreview.com/viewtopic.php?t=16344
http://forums.silentpcreview.com/viewtopic.php?t=16393
Basically, if you move up to thicker rads and want to remain at reasonably sane noise levels (I'm all about quiet, because I've come to realize the value of convenience over the years...having a roommate helps with that) you're going to have to find yourself some 120x38mm 7-bladed fans. I'd recommend the ever-so-popular Sanyo Denkis.
Oh, and so you know thats like $250 in SwageLok compression fittings and steel piping. Got them for free off a wafer making machine that ASML was throwing out.
But anyways, I can show you the rest of my system if you want, just PM me.
That plumbing looks awesome. I need to get some pictures of my current setup up...I had an article I was writing for the front page on it. I should finish that.
Captain Helghas
06-12-06, 11:36 PM
The jury seems to be out on Northbridge cooling, but I'll do it anyway. Do you think there is any benefit to Southbridge cooling?
Here's the specs:
P5WD2-E
930 under Apogee
Mosfet block
MCW30 on IC7R Northbridge
Maze 4 gpu on X1900XTX
BIPII with 2x Delta SHE
modded MCW350 pump
MCRES-Micro Res
Moto7451
06-12-06, 11:46 PM
This was with 5% GM Dex-cool ethylene, dye and iodine. And in no time, what I actually meant was after 2-3 weeks there was a noticable haze.
The cloudyness doesn't really bother me too much.
Maybe the iodine caused the tubing to cloud? Interesting. I should probably do some tests along with the pump tests I'm running (should be finished when I finish the new WC case I"m building).
my question.
i have the aquagate all in one watercooler(yeh wanted to start with the nub thing)
wil it be possible for me to buy bigger hoses and if so how do i connect them to the smaller connectors(the leak free ones..they need another connector which i have but it doesnt fit on big tubes for shure)
so is this possible?
You can buy new fittings that match the ID/OD of your tubing (I imagine the TT kit came with compression fittings) or tubing adapters. The latter won't really net you much of a benefit however.
johan851
06-13-06, 12:41 AM
The jury seems to be out on Northbridge cooling, but I'll do it anyway. Do you think there is any benefit to Southbridge cooling?
Here's the specs:
P5WD2-E
930 under Apogee
Mosfet block
MCW30 on IC7R Northbridge
Maze 4 gpu on X1900XTX
BIPII with 2x Delta SHE
modded MCW350 pump
MCRES-Micro Res
You've got a lot in that loop already...so there's really two ways to look at it. No matter what you do, a NB block will get you better NB temperatures. You can either put one in with the reasoning that another block can't hurt, considering all the blocks in there already, or you could avoid using one because it'll cause even more restriction than you already have. :)
If it were me, I would slap a MCX-159 on there and be done, but that's me. I feel like NB blocks aren't worth the extra tubing hassle, especially considering that the NB doesn't need to be watercooled unless you're REALLY pushing the limits. An MCX-159 will cool the NB well, keep quiet while doing it, and save you from any possible loss in performance across the rest of the loop.
Drinkyoghurt
06-13-06, 01:04 AM
Maybe the iodine caused the tubing to cloud? Interesting. I should probably do some tests along with the pump tests I'm running (should be finished when I finish the new WC case I"m building).
You can buy new fittings that match the ID/OD of your tubing (I imagine the TT kit came with compression fittings) or tubing adapters. The latter won't really net you much of a benefit however.
well this is a picture of the tubes
http://www.ninjalane.com/images/aquagate/hose_size.jpg
the white plug is needed or otherwise it cant connect to the LCU. so i have to get something which makes the smaller tube into a bigger tube?
Captain Helghas
06-13-06, 01:06 AM
Why not jb weld a larger barb over the white barb there? If you need one I can send you an extra barb.
Drinkyoghurt
06-13-06, 01:19 AM
i dont have a welder(my dad neither). is there any way i can do this with other fittings? like one that connects to the end of this tune and has a bigger output for a larger tube(sorry for my crappy english)
Welding plastic would be mighty tough, as it would melt instantly. "JB weld" was what the Captain was recommending. It is an epoxy that will bond plastics together.
http://jbweld.net/index.php
Drinkyoghurt
06-13-06, 01:32 AM
!?...can somebody give me a guide for that?
Captain Helghas
06-13-06, 01:33 AM
^^ What Knacko said. Jb Weld (http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php) is cheap, and effective. It was used for the mod on my MCW350.
Drinkyoghurt
06-13-06, 01:36 AM
just my luck, it aint available in my country..ooh well then i guess i have to find it on ebay
Bad Maniac
06-13-06, 03:08 AM
Maybe the iodine caused the tubing to cloud?Alcohol based iodine solution can attack plastic parts in the loop. That might be what's causing the clouding in the worst case scenario, melted plastic. When getting iodine you need to make sure that you buy alcohol free iodine solution.
johan851
06-13-06, 04:04 AM
^ I don't think it's the iodine. I get clouding on both clearflex and masterkleer when using just Dex-Cool antifreeze.
bumsquad
06-13-06, 06:46 AM
bah i think ur probably right, probably gonna have to get 1/4'' to 1/2'' barbs ... but won't that restrict flow? o wait nvm, it'd b the same cuz the compression fittings still going through 1/4'' anyway. BAH!!!
watever i'm sure it'll work out.
VballCoach
06-13-06, 07:57 AM
Alcohol based iodine solution can attack plastic parts in the loop. That might be what's causing the clouding in the worst case scenario, melted plastic. When getting iodine you need to make sure that you buy alcohol free iodine solution.
afaik, the alcohol affects acrylic. PVC tubings and fittings aren't harmed by it.
johan851
06-13-06, 11:07 AM
bah i think ur probably right, probably gonna have to get 1/4'' to 1/2'' barbs ... but won't that restrict flow? o wait nvm, it'd b the same cuz the compression fittings still going through 1/4'' anyway. BAH!!!
watever i'm sure it'll work out.
Actually, 1/4" NPT to 1/2" OD barbs is all 3/8" ID. Go figure - just as restrictive as any 1/2' barb.
kimochii72
06-13-06, 01:14 PM
Thanks Johan. i'll take your advise with serious consideration b4 my purchase. I would have never thought of 7 blade fans on my own. Thanks again.
Moto7451
06-13-06, 04:54 PM
I was thinking that maybe the iodine was staining the tubing. Maybe its actually the dexcool if both or your setups became cloudy. That would be odd though considering that the dexcool should just be ethylene glycol like my Hydrex.
johan851
06-13-06, 05:08 PM
I was thinking that maybe the iodine was staining the tubing. Maybe its actually the dexcool if both or your setups became cloudy. That would be odd though considering that the dexcool should just be ethylene glycol like my Hydrex.
Yeah, I really don't know. I've just always had problems with my tubing getting cloudy. I'll check the ingredients on my antifreeze here in a second, and see what else they dump in there. It's possible that the cloudy stuff is just intended to coat metal and protect it from corrosion.
kimochii72
06-13-06, 09:10 PM
I had some Antifreeze that claimed to only have Ethylene Glycol in it. I added some reagent grade methanol to the mix for viscosity & better thermal conductivity. They next thing I knew is the methanol dropped some type of waxy additive out of the coolent and it started to accumulate in one area creating a nasty film. I can't see ethylene glycol and methanol creating a reaction, although from my chemistry experience I can see methanol as a solvent that may make the wax. or whatever is was become less soluable in the ethylene glycol. I never used methanol after that. Plus I found it the methanol alone clouded masklateer tubing very slowly on it's own.
Ethanol probably won't affect pvc at all. I don't know if it will affect acrylic or not, I doubt it would. Methanol will affect acrylic, pvc tubing, and Epoxy. Delrin should not be affected by either.
johan851
06-14-06, 12:49 AM
Alright, it's been fun, but starting tomorrow I'm going to be spending the next two weeks in London and Kampala, Uganda, so I'm not exactly going to be available to answer questions. I'll resume when I get back. :D
If someone wanted to take over, that would be awesome.
Captain Helghas
06-14-06, 08:02 AM
I had some Antifreeze that claimed to only have Ethylene Glycol in it. I added some reagent grade methanol to the mix for viscosity & better thermal conductivity. They next thing I knew is the methanol dropped some type of waxy additive out of the coolent and it started to accumulate in one area creating a nasty film. I can't see ethylene glycol and methanol creating a reaction, although from my chemistry experience I can see methanol as a solvent that may make the wax. or whatever is was become less soluable in the ethylene glycol. I never used methanol after that. Plus I found it the methanol alone clouded masklateer tubing very slowly on it's own.
Ethanol probably won't affect pvc at all. I don't know if it will affect acrylic or not, I doubt it would. Methanol will affect acrylic, pvc tubing, and Epoxy. Delrin should not be affected by either.
Nucleophillic attack of the alcohol group of methanol on the oxygen of Glycol, forming Methyl Glycol. Waxy substance should be the leftover ethylene.
kimochii72
06-14-06, 11:09 AM
Nucleophillic attack of the alcohol group of methanol on the oxygen of Glycol, forming Methyl Glycol. Waxy substance should be the leftover ethylene.
Thanks. I will definately never use these 2 together now.
QuietIce
06-14-06, 01:47 PM
While we're on the subjects of coolant - I've seen a lot of people recommend a 5% anti-freeze solution.
Is that 5% of the pre-mixed stuff or 5% total solution (10% of the pre-mixed)?
bumsquad
06-15-06, 05:02 AM
Just to keep u guys updated, I tried the 7/16'' tubing i got from mcmaster on my compression fittings, but it didnt' fit through, it was like a mm too thick. I might b able to boil it but iono. I might go to home depot some time and find some barbs that'll go from 1/2'' to watever the compression fitting holes r.
I just found out that the holes are 1/2'' in diameter. so I guess i need 1/2'' NPT? is this correct? I have no idea about how these ratings work. But that still leaves questions as to what thread its supposed to b and how long as well. Should i just go to homedepot and ask them to find something that will fit in it?
QuietIce
06-15-06, 06:48 AM
Just to keep u guys updated, I tried the 7/16'' tubing i got from mcmaster on my compression fittings, but it didnt' fit through, it was like a mm too thick. I might b able to boil it but iono. I might go to home depot some time and find some barbs that'll go from 1/2'' to watever the compression fitting holes r.
I just found out that the holes are 1/2'' in diameter. so I guess i need 1/2'' NPT? is this correct? I have no idea about how these ratings work. But that still leaves questions as to what thread its supposed to b and how long as well. Should i just go to homedepot and ask them to find something that will fit in it? A ~1/2" diameter hole is a 1/4" NPT (it's actually a hair more than 1/2").
When I shop for fittings of any kind I like to take the parts with me even if I know what it's supposed to be. Sometimes it saves a trip and a lot of hassle.
s002wjh
06-15-06, 08:06 AM
is it better to have a res than T-line? I will assume it take long time to heat up the res than T-line, so its better?
Captain Helghas
06-15-06, 08:09 AM
is it better to have a res than T-line? I will assume it take long time to heat up the res than T-line, so its better?
Doesn't matter. There is no difference between a res or a T. None.
quick question for anyone who might know. whats a good site in the UK that sells WC stuff.
also whats a good cheap wc loop for a 939 / 7800gt totally unsure on what to get . i read some stickys but still have no idea. also would like a cpu/gpu block that can handle cold water
Captain Helghas
06-15-06, 08:54 AM
Loop suggestion for you: Swiftech parts (or Dangerden)
Pump: MCW350(DDC) or MCW655(D5). Same price, different properties.
Res: MCRES-Micro or T-line
Rad: BIP2 or BIX
CPU: Apogee or TDX
GPU: MCW60 or Maze4gpu (with acetal top and series 2 hold down)
This can all be 1/2" or 3/8" depending on your preference. The D5 pump is only 1/2".
caddy359
06-15-06, 08:57 AM
http://www.thecoolingshop.com/ seams pretty good to me nice stock levels quick delivery and fast email response.
used http://www.componentsuk.co.uk/catalog/ and http://www.specialtech.co.uk/ although the later messed me about and am still missing part of an order.
Probably a one of problem though hmm
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im blind in my left ear so dont shout i wont see you
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Deathknight
06-15-06, 09:06 AM
is it better to have a res than T-line? I will assume it take long time to heat up the res than T-line, so its better?
I think maybe you don't understand the purpose of a res or a T line. The purpose of the res is not to give storage of cool water. You would need a far larger supply of water for this to work. A T-line and res are tools for filling and bleeding air from your loop. The res also gives a little bit of the bling factor. Neither route gives you any advantage in terms of keeping additional cool water. The water in your loop will stabilize in temperature fairly quickly and then the amount of water in it is not relevant anymore.
There are alot of threads already on the preference of a res vs a T-line so you may want to check those out. It really is more of a preference than a matter of which is better. There is a risk of some cheaper resevoirs cracking and leaking, which is enough to stear alot of people clear of them.
FudgeNuggets
06-15-06, 09:10 AM
Is water-cooling quiet? Is there much maintenance involved? Lastly, can watercooling systems fit in mini-pc setups (like those from shuttle and aopen?) I'm asking because next month I'll be building a new Conroe system!!
http://www.thecoolingshop.com/ seams pretty good to me nice stock levels quick delivery and fast email response.
used http://www.componentsuk.co.uk/catalog/ and http://www.specialtech.co.uk/ although the later messed me about and am still missing part of an order.
Probably a one of problem though hmm
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im blind in my left ear so dont shout i wont see you
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thanks for that :).
Captain Helghas
06-15-06, 09:40 AM
1) It can be. If you want completely quite, just add a block to replace every fan you have in your case. The BIP rad and others with it's near thickness can work well with very silent fans. This can remove every fan in your case, except for maybe the PSU, and the one(s) on your rad.
2) Not really. You just have to make sure there enough water in the loop. If your res or t-line is getting low, you have to put more water in it.
3) With proper planning it can. There are a few threads which show pictures of WC fitting into tight places.
caddy359
06-15-06, 10:07 AM
http://www.over-clock.com/ forgot that one sos -)
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im blind in my left ear so dont shout i wont see you
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bumsquad
06-15-06, 02:38 PM
A ~1/2" diameter hole is a 1/4" NPT (it's actually a hair more than 1/2").
When I shop for fittings of any kind I like to take the parts with me even if I know what it's supposed to be. Sometimes it saves a trip and a lot of hassle.
sounds good. I'll go look for one at home depot. shouldn't cost more then a couple of bucks for both barbs :)
Is water-cooling quiet? Is there much maintenance involved? Lastly, can watercooling systems fit in mini-pc setups (like those from shuttle and aopen?) I'm asking because next month I'll be building a new Conroe system!!
1. It can be very quiet if you pick your parts accordingly. For instance, a DDC pump with a thin BIP type rad with yate loons or scythe flex fans with blocks for at least CPU and GPU can be very quiet.
2. How much is necessary and how much people do are two different things. Some people run their systems for a year or more between flushing/refilling. I personally go about once every 3 or 4 months with a flush/refill myself. If you use some algaecide or a few drops of non-alcohol based iodine in the fluid along with your antifreeze, growth guaranteed will not be a problem.
3. It can be done, but it takes more work and planning. I would do some searching in the project logs and/or this section to see where others have done it. They usually mount the rad on the outside however as it is very difficult if not impossible to mount it internally.
bumsquad
06-16-06, 04:57 AM
I tried giving it one more try, and i was able to push the tubing through. FINALLY woooo! i had to bend the tubing in to do it, but the tubing comes out perfectly round on the other side :) All i need now is to remove everything from my case and figure out where to mount of the rad and i'll b on H20!!!!
johan851
07-06-06, 12:50 AM
^ Glad it's coming along well.
I'm giving this thread a bump because I'm back in the country and around to answer more questions. So...shoot.
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