View Full Version : Logitech X-530 Sub Mod
MegaloRESX15
06-15-06, 08:52 AM
Check this out,I joined this forum recentely,and i wanted to show you guys what
I saw in my other forum i go to...
I had started a thread on car audio forum asking about modding the sub of a logitech x530..anyways just read the the other thread and post feedback here.
http://caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=151029&highlight=eu+700
I bought a pair of Eu-700's to replace the midbass in my truck. It won't get near enough wattage to do anything if you replaced the woofer. According to the Logitech site, the woofer is only getting about 25W RMS. The Eu-700 is rated at 150W RMS. You'll likely get less output, unless you replace the amp.
http://edesignaudio.com/product.php?cid=15&pid=32&tab=Specs&cur=USD
MegaloRESX15
06-15-06, 10:13 AM
yea i know,with a slightly biger box and an amp to help out the wattage it would sound beastly
I wasn't impressed with mine for doing sub-50hz, but beyond that they're not bad. Don't expect too much from them, they're only 6 and 1/2ers.
MegaloRESX15
06-15-06, 11:27 AM
it should still outdo the stock subs i assume since there is more surface area
If you want to keep going the easy route, nab a 75w plate amp from partsexpress and put it in, its a very small plate amp, and if it dont fit, build a small box for it to sit next to the sub, and just run the wires in through a small terminal.
Korndog
06-15-06, 07:25 PM
u should make sure the new sub goes okey with the original box. my guess is that logitech box is probably tuned pretty high, even if you get a great sub that has low extensions, it won't make a difference. Worst case, you might kill the new sub.
not sure about the the box that comes with the x-530, but its probably best to make a box thats designed for the new subs, if you play your cards right, you probably wont' even have to get a new amp for great results.
MegaloRESX15
06-15-06, 09:13 PM
this is what makes modding fun except on Halo then that ****es me off
Korndog
06-16-06, 12:07 AM
putting a good sub in the wrong box isn't modding, its a waste of money.
Chunkylover763
06-16-06, 05:30 AM
My sentiments exactly, I am not about promoting ignorence in this forum and encouraging people to put a good sub in the wrong box with an inferior amp is hard for me to see. In my opinion, he should just spend another $50 and get an amp and box for it, but its still his decision. He bought the parts, he did the mod and it sounds like he is happy with it.
he could have just made a new box for the original amp and the new sub
would cost like 10 bucks
although if by chance this works..more power
MegaloRESX15
06-16-06, 07:00 PM
putting a good sub in the wrong box isn't modding, its a waste of money.
thats why stated above to make a bigger box for it. that would be the modding part,now more power that is a great idea but how would i run a new amplifier yet still be able to hook up all the rca's and that weird serial port to?
Korndog
06-16-06, 07:45 PM
if u don't want to touch the electronics (the easy way) just get a plate amp that has high level inputs. keep the existing amp and hook it up to the new amp. do it like they do it in car audio :D
bamaboy
06-16-06, 10:09 PM
Check this out,I joined this forum recentely,and i wanted to show you guys what
I saw in my other forum i go to...
I had started a thread on car audio forum asking about modding the sub of a logitech x530..anyways just read the the other thread and post feedback here.
http://caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=151029&highlight=eu+700
ewwww you have RE...jerk
i wish i could get some RE's
im stuck with my pyramid's :(
get me some RE RE's and put them in a sealed box with 150rms per sub and nothing would be able to touch me :D
what do you have the SX in?
i really want 2 MT's
whats your name on CA.com?
Korndog
06-16-06, 11:18 PM
wtf?
didn't u say you had the RE MT?
i'm not a big RE fan, but i was about to get an SX myself for my car. would have if RE customer service was a little better, fortuantly i ended up getting and ascendant avalanche, glad i did though :)
bamaboy
06-16-06, 11:24 PM
just maybe...
(but its a secret)
they make great products, but with all this new price changing they just might be digging themselves into a hole
and ive seen mixed reviews on the CS, ive never had a problem with anything ive needed from them, they did good on the few recone kits i ordered, been fine with me
ascendant ****ed me off , i wanted some arco's
I really think that putting a good sub or modding any set of computer speaker is a waste of time and money. I have the Z5500s they are fine for the price, my friend and I hooked up some JBLs instead of the sats and it was awsome but the cost of the set and the speakers was over $800 bucks. For $800 we could have just built a better set. Those JBLs went in to his car with RF T3 sub.
bamaboy
06-16-06, 11:29 PM
T3?
you mean P3 or T2?
i was going to try an mod my klipsch's with an XXX6.5, but i would of had to mount it inverted and the stock sub was 6ohm the XXX was 2 so i didnt feel like seeing if the klipsch has good cooling
P3. Sorry I was thinking of T3 terminator 3 for some reason. Terrible movie out of the 3.
bamaboy
06-16-06, 11:34 PM
look at teh hawtnez of da MT'z in da 8cuft bawx
http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/4674/p52800032dj.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
take that box and the subs, add atleast 4,000 rms and you can go to town
I can't be sure but it looks like that box is a tad big.
bamaboy
06-16-06, 11:40 PM
nope, just a little chubby
bamaboy
06-16-06, 11:42 PM
you want the 7 cube one?
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/8045/p10100217iu.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
still chubby?
That looks better. I would have opted for yellow top. IIRC the yellow top deep cycles better. Is there an inline cap for it?
bamaboy
06-16-06, 11:52 PM
actually they are the exact same batts, blue top is cheaper though
no cap, dont even get me started on them
i have a 200a alt on it but the 200a alt was made to run just 1 MT, i need to get a new 300a+ one
Korndog
06-17-06, 01:29 AM
actually they are the exact same batts, blue top is cheaper though
no cap, dont even get me started on them
i have a 200a alt on it but the 200a alt was made to run just 1 MT, i need to get a new 300a+ one
they're all good batteries, red, yellow, blue. they all use the same tech. So whats the difference? the application. I get :mad: :mad: :mad: when people start arguing over which one is better. Red top = everyday use(starter, dailydriver), yellow top = occational use (secondary battery thats rarly used, comp car that burps once a month) and blue top = marine (for damn boats!!)
the optima vendor at the shop i worked at told me himself, if you put a yellow top or blue top in a daily driver, the preformance will die out a lot faster then the red top. vice versa, if you put a red top in a car that you drive once every couple of weeks, it won't last as long as the yellow top. you're right about the blue top being kinda like the yellow, but again, they assume you won't be driving your boat everyday so it designed just like the yellow top. Still you shouldn't be using it for your daily driver.
bamaboy
06-17-06, 09:52 AM
red's are not a deep cycle
ive seen people run yellow tops as starter batts and what not
i plan on moving the blue top up front and picking up an odyssey 2150 or kinetik 2400
Korndog
06-17-06, 05:31 PM
do u know what deep cycle is? a deep cycle battery is designed so you can drain the battery and charge it again repeatedly. Do this to a normal battery and it'll die out much faster.
here i'll copy a quote from the optima website..
What does deep cycle mean?
Deep cycle means using the battery in an application that will typically discharge 60% to 70% or more of the batter y capacity.
Starter battery:
An automotive battery is an SLI (starting, lighting, ignition) battery. It's plates are designed to deliver maximum power for a short duration. Starting a car typically discharges an SLI battery only 1% to 3%.
now u might be thinking "oh my sound system needs lots of amps, so it needs deep cycle" nope, thats wrong. as long as you're listening to music, music is dynamic when it comes to the drain on your electrical system. its not a constant load, but instead a short discharges everytime the bass hits. your battery has time to charge before the next one, so there is no deep cycle.
EDIT:
http://www.optimabatteries.com/publish/optima/americas0/en/config/product_info/automotive/starter.RowPar.0005.ContentPar.0001.ColumnPar.0001 .Image.0.0.gif
burps at competitons dont' usually last longer then 30seconds right?
All I know is a yellow top works better. You can argue how it works, I just believe in it because I've seen how it compares to the red top.
As for caps I'm a believer in it because I've heard it with and without. And used a system with and without. Even with a HO alt I can see a difference in dimming and that type of thing, when it kicks you there's just no other way to provide huge power faster than a cap. I believe in it and if you don't that's fine I don't wanna hog this thread or discuss it on a computer forum we'll save it for the audio forums out there.
Korndog
06-17-06, 11:23 PM
can't stop you from believing what you want to believe. but this topic isn't about something abstract like religion or something like politics, this is electronics, there are not phenomenons or magic, you either understand it or you don't. Forums are here so people can share the knownledge, but you're not willing to listen/discuss, then its not really a forum anymore.
bamaboy
06-17-06, 11:46 PM
yea, im not just going to drive around with it, i plan on competing, its a fact everytime you drain a non deep cycle down alot and redcharge it its going to start losing something
almost everyone that i know that competes uses deep cycles(for real)
i know what your talking about, but it isnt going to make any difference at all really if you have a red or yellow for daily driving
i know you know meade, he has a yellow top up front with 6 odyssey 2150s, and 2 300a alts, those are all deep cycle
now that i wrote this i forgot what i was going to say about it...oh well
it dosent matter, this is working good for me right now, about to add another strand of 1/0, and upgrade alt
Korndog
06-18-06, 12:09 AM
if u compete, u'll be competing like ones a month at most right? and do u think you'll be draining your battery 60-70% every time? i ran my system at a bbq party in the park for about 4 hours at max volume off my red top, could still start up after, its not easy to drain out an optima battery. at my new job, we have forklifts that run on deep cycle batteries, and the reason for that is because they keep using them until its empty and then charge it again. most of the yellow tops that go into even the baddest car's with systems will never see 60-70% discharge.
the reason everyone has yellow tops is the same reason people have caps, just for show. give optima a call and they'll say the same thing i'm saying.
bamaboy
06-18-06, 12:42 AM
i dont really care, either way they are good batts, the blue matches my vehicle, there it justifies my pruchase...:)
More then anything, the Optima Yellow Tops are just plain bullet proof lolz.
bamaboy
06-18-06, 10:09 AM
but an optima isnt going to touch a kinetik 2400 or nsb125 or odyssey 2150
MegaloRESX15
06-18-06, 08:02 PM
Bam my name on the other forum is Megalomaniac. i got an SX 15 in a 4cube box ported powered by an eD NINe 1(1ohm load to sub at 1200watts) i got a yellow top under the hood and a carputer in the dash.
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