Raditor question

[eh?]

Ok i have a old heater core and i need tips on how to soldier the 3/8 hose barbs into the ends, i have tried 7 times already and only once i got it to seep into the threads but i had to take it off because i had big chucks of soldier in the raditor it always leaks.. even though i use silicon. Please i need tips on how to do this better!

[ButcherUK]

torch, barb, radiator, solder. Bring together till hot and the solder flows freely, try not to torch the solder too much (just torch the metal, it'll transfer the heat to the soldering area fine), you'll ignite the flux and it won't flow well.

[mldhab]

don't bother soldering in new barbs.

do this:

Measure the in/out connections to the radiator - say (as an example) both are 5/8" connections.

Identify what size plumbing you need for the rest of the system (as an example) lets' say 1/2"

Go to the hardware store and buy a 5/8" barb to 3/8"NPT Female fitting and a 1/2" barb to 3/8" NPT male fitting. Use a little teflon tape on the threads and screw the NPT threaded portions together (tight).

Now use a short piece of 5/8"hose (with hose clamps) between the radiator connection and the 5/8" end of the fitting.

Connect the plumbing from the rest of the system to the 1/2" end of the fitting (with hose clamp).

Do the same for the other connection and you are home free.

PS - soldering old oxidized metal is a bitch.;)

[ButcherUK]

Originally posted by mldhab
PS - soldering old oxidized metal is a bitch.;)

That's one reason you're meant to sand the joint to be soldered first, the other is to give good adhesion of solder.

[Brians256]

Solder? We don't need no steeenkeeeng solder!

JB-Weld. It is a very strong (3960 PSI tensile strength) epoxy. The only drawback is that it takes about 15 hours to cure. Well, there is another drawback... you can't undo the connection. With solder, you can at heat the connection and melt the solder.

JB-Weld is water-tight, durable, and very, very strong.