View Full Version : Watercooling my new Intel Core Duo E6600 PC!
Been a lurker on these forums for absolutely yonks, dabbled with watercooling for over 2 years now. Never seem to get it right though, always throwing money at new bits and temps always floating around 40ish, now I want to do it right - this new pc gives me the perfect opportunity.
Right, first off, the spec of the PC:
CPU: Intel CoreDuo2 E6600 (4mbcache)
RAM: OCZ 1000MHZ DDR2 Extreme Platinum (model EEK)
HDD: 2 x Seagate 7900.10 Barracudas 320gb (SATAII 16mbcache)
GPU: 2 x EVGA Superclocked 7950GX2 Nvidia 1GB cards
MBD: MSI 975x Platinum PowerUP
PSU: Thermaltake ToughPower 700WATT modular
CSE: Antec P180
I'm opening my PC to all the pro's on here, whatever you chaps recommend, thats what I'll do. I basically need a setup that can keep the temps around 20c max on load, yet be as quiet as the vacuum in space when not on load.
Its a challenge, but the case already helps in the quiet department, now I just need to get this watercooling setup spot on!
So far, I've thought a Elheim 1060 pump is the way forward, and using 1/2" ID tubing setup - of course, this is just an idea... I'm all open.
Come on pros and techies, whats your views and suggestions? :)
hyperasus
08-05-06, 04:33 AM
20c max on load? Good luck with that man, I'll be watching the thread to see what you come up with to keep temps that low on water.
I might be ignorant on the intel side of things, but im pretty sure the 975x chipset is a Crossfire supporting board and wont let you run those two very expensive graphics cards in SLI mode.
Furthermore, I dont think 7950's support SLI. They are sli cards, but they are two graphics boards hardwired to eachother in a single unit configuration.
I dont belive any of them have the connector.
You might be better off with a crossfire x1900 setup with that rig, and if your gonna spend that much why not go with the E6800 instead?
Conroe apparently runs cooler than netburst, so think more for your gpu's than cpu. A Swiftech apex ultra+ kit will fit the needs of almost anyone.
Lots of threads out there. use Search =)
Valk is correct. Right now with the current crop of motherboards that support Conroe, SLI is out. ATI Crossfire will work though. If you plan to overclock, forget the MSI mobo. The best currently available is the Asus P5W DH. The OCZ Powerstream 520W PSU is better than the one you listed because it's a single rail.
Ok, getting back to your cooling. Watercooling can't physically be at or lower than ambient temp (room temp). If I remember correctly 20 degrees C. is about 68 degrees F. You just aren't gonna get that temp unless you live in an icebox. I suggest you raise your goal to something more like 30 degrees.
Ok, that said let's look at watercooling components. I love Eheim pumps, I have a 1048 and it's been great. But, the Eheim 1060 (renamed to 1260) might not be a good choice. It's really too big and the barbs that come with it are larger than 1/2" I think. The Eheim 1250 is probably a better choice.
If you really want low temps, you'll need a big efficient radiator. As for a CPU block, get a good one that will fit socket LGA775. I haven't keep up with the latest on rads and blocks, so I'll defer to others on specific recommendations.
SolidxSnake
08-05-06, 10:01 AM
i'd say D5 for pump, just for size concerns. I'd highly consider a triple rad, as you're using two 7950s (btw, nvidia disabled quad-SLi as they don't believe it's competely stable, and they said they'll re-enable SLi for the 7950's by the end of summer. it's a driver side issue). blocks, i'd say apogee or storm for CPU. GPU would be either a maze4 for budget, maybe a MCW-60. i'd use a BIGT 360 rad with 3/6 panaflo's.
I thought the MSI 975x platinum powerup was the way to go because it had true double 16x PCIe slots where the Asus halves its own to 8x when running in CF mode???
I cant find any reviews on the powerup motherboard I've ordered which is going to be here on monday now, I assumed MSI was the way forward as currently its the only true 16x * 2 motherboard with the 975x chipset out there which supports conroe?
Ok, pretty good recommendations made here.
A few questions:
what difference would a 1000lph pump with 2m head have against a 3000lph pump with 3m head? is the temp drop going to be better with the 3klph due to higher flow and pressure? :confused:
I heard that the new Thermaltake line wasnt very good. You may want to consider something a little more stable. OCZ, Antec, Forton, PC Power & Cooling, Seasonic and Silverstone are all good companies. Something with a strong +12v rail, especially with two power hungry graphics cards.
dude, im sorry to say, but 20c under load is pretty much impossible with any watercoling system that uses ambient air....doesnt matter what parts you have, your room temps have to be lower than 20c, which is kinda cold, i would need a long sleeved shirt. if you want those temps, drop watercooling right now and get phase change cooling, the best you could probably do is put your radiator right infront of an airconditioner , and make a custom res. thats filled with ice cubes? lol. if you get the best watercooling out now...i would say your temps (without overclocking) would be about 30-35load, 20-25 idle... if you overclock it to its max....i wouldnt be surprised to see it reach 45c under load.
edit - if you want quiet, get yourslef a tri core rad (probably black ice 360 gt) and use 3 silent fans (hook them up to your motherboard sensors so they are controlled by the pc temps) when idle...im positive you will have a VERY quiet pc.
sir_pyro
08-07-06, 08:18 AM
20c? Um, you need to look in the extream section, as you're going to need a chiller to get that. At best you're going to get 30c under load, if not more.
You pump is garbage, and wont help you in your quest for imposible temps. Those things only put out something aroun 6ft of head, and in a computer head is a lot more important then unrestricted flow seeing how restrictive it's going to be. The best quiet pump that's out id the Lang DDC+ (MCP355) with the 1/2" intake mod or a replacement top. After that, a D5 is your best bet.
Now, if you still want to run standard air-cooled water and now chilled water, you;re going to need to do a lot of work to the case. First thing is cut the top out of it in such a way that you can mount a 3x120mm radiator up there. You can probable set it up where is uses the stock top exaust fan hole along with a cut out for the rest of the rad. Then stick a Black Ice GT up there or a Thermochill PA 120.3 with some quiet fans. Water block wise, go swiftech on the CPU and whatever you can find to fit your GPU's. I think Danger Den is comout out with something that fits and some of the german places have stuff. If that failes, the Koolance GPU blocks should be able to be crammed in there.
Now, if you still want to get 20c, you can do so for about $100 and not have to buy a radiator or cut up your case. Go buy a cheep walmart AC unit, and a 12-pack cooler. Put the condencer from the AC unit into the cooler, fill with water, and put your intake-exit tubing in and you're not going to be just below 20c, but probably below 5c.
atomic ferret
08-07-06, 08:40 AM
I heard that the new Thermaltake line wasnt very good.
My Thermaltake power supply shorted or something and fried my motherboard (and obviously my power supply). It wasn't fun. Especially the part about spending >100$ on a P4 motherboard with conroe about to come out.
I read that the MSI 975x platinum powerup is on par with P5W DH on other forums and there are a couple mods for the board as well to substain a higher FSB. Also I recommend the D5 Pump as well it fits perfectly into your P180 case if you remove the middle hard drive bay. I use a BIPGT240 along with 2 scythe s-flex fans in my p180 mounted internally on the top of the case infront of the existing fan in the optical drive bays (it takes up two bays).
You pump is garbage
Nice grammer. Ever have an Eheim pump? My 1048 has been working flawless for a couple of years now. Keeps my overclocked dual core nice and cool.
nvidiaOCmaster
08-07-06, 06:45 PM
Nice grammer.
Even though it was an obvious typo.
Gotta say.................PWN3D!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Get X1900GTX's, get water, or high end air. NEVER hope for 20C or under unless your a phase change elite, and have the $$$$ to throw at phase change equipment.
Nothing has graphics engines powerful enough to touch the X1900, let alone 2 or SLI 7950X2.
Hi all, ok, update:
I decided as there is no nVidia chipset motherboard supporting SLI out yet for the Conroe cpu's, screw the SLI for now and the PCIe-8x Crossfire malarky. I'll wait when the right motherboard comes out and then buy the latest nVidia cards then... (I'm a nVidia fanboy, lol)
Ok, hopefully the last parts are coming today and I can start assembly, I will take pics along the way for ya all.
Spec: (made some alterations)
CPU: E6600 4MB
RAM: 2GB OCZ Titanium DDR2-1000MHZ 4-4-4-15
HDK: 2 x Seagate Barracuda 320GB SATA2 16MB - will run in RAID0
HDK: 1 x WD 250GB SATA2 16MB - Data BAckup Drive
PS: Thermaltake ToughPower 700WATT Modular (I know you guys say it aint good enough, but it wasnt cheap and I already got it, so might as well give it a go and see if cuts the mustard, otherwise I will just pick up a Targan 1100W jobbie! cos PSU's and me dont go together very well! (gone through about 5 in the past 2 years)
CASE: P180 Black (already got this, and love it)
TFT: the new LG-203WT 1400:1 20", should be great for playing games and watching movies too.
WATERCOOLING GEAR:
I took your recommendations and opted for the Swiftech Apex Ultra kit with the Apogee block, and the MCP655 pump with the radbox for the rear. For now its just a dual rad on the rear.
I also ordered these round thermaltake thingies for water-monitoring, but they also got like aluminium heatsinks around them, I'll use these to divert some water to the current old graphics card the PCIe 7800GT. Also, instead of using the mini-res that comes with this swiftech kit, I'll use a thermaltake 5.25" res unit. I'm a fan of clamp/barbs and compression-fits all the way so thats all I'll have, I just dont trust the sound of those push-fit stuff wtf.
Ok, will hit back with pics as soon as the build starts in a few hours from now.
knightwolf6543
08-12-06, 06:55 AM
Furthermore, I dont think 7950's support SLI. They are sli cards, but they are two graphics boards hardwired to eachother in a single unit configuration.
I dont belive any of them have the connector.
http://www.slizone.com/object/slizone_gf7950_gx2.html :D
I don't know where you folks have been reading about rads, but the PA series is the best as far as what he is looking for. Although fitting it into most cases is going to be a real challenge, a PA120.3 owns every other rad by a wide margin as far as flow restriction and thermal performance are concerned. It works especially well with low airflow when compared to all other rads on the market.
As far as the 7950GX2s are concerned, I haven't seen any watercooling solution out there yet that will work with these cards due to the space between the boards.
knightwolf6543
08-12-06, 07:50 AM
http://www.dangerden.com/images/blocks/7950/small/7950_top_view2.jpg
:D
I hadn't seen that. It says however that it is still in testing. Looks sweet for those with the $$$$$
Right, spent all day yesterday getting this together, and the pipework sorted, damn is it a nightmare to get those ribs on the piping, lol.
Heres some pics:
http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/8691/img0004px3.jpg
http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/6518/img0005bl4.jpg
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/3694/img0011dw6.jpg
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/3268/img0012bp1.jpg
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/7084/img0013zh8.jpg
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/9485/img0018jr2.jpg
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/3787/img0020uu1.jpg
http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/5112/img0021kf7.jpg
http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/1466/img0023tz9.jpg
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/1706/img0024wx0.jpg
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/2362/img0026ih2.th.jpg (http://img239.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0026ih2.jpg)
http://img308.imageshack.us/img308/7043/img0031ih2.th.jpg (http://img308.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0031ih2.jpg)
...and I was suffering from a cold+flu+backache+cut-fingers and grazed thumbs, thankgod this pc was built to be highspec and long lasting, I cant see myself doing this again for a long time now!
But now, the fun begins with the overclocking!!!! :eek:
natewildes
08-13-06, 02:31 PM
Looks good, I like the way you mounted your D5!
Looks good, I like the way you mounted your D5!
Thanks!
Yup, the slack is there for now because the front res is temporary, I'm gonna get one that I can hang off the rear too, put some Y-splitters in there and sorted ;)
The cabling is a lot better now, I'll take some more pics once I get the new res fitted :)
For now this is my first attempt at overclocking this beast...
This is what I am running, its stable and quick! :)
Under load (temps):
http://img308.imageshack.us/img308/2935/coretempsf4.gif
Stability test hit all the hardware for a good 15 mins:
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/6532/cpustabilitytestfm1.gif
Ok, I've cleaned up the loop. All 1/2", no kinks, no restrictions. As short as possible.
Now:
RES > PUMP > RAD > CHIPSET (SWIFTECH) > CPU (SWIFTECH APOGEE) > GPU (ALPHACOOL) >
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/294/msiwatercooledqa0.jpg
What do the pro's think? anymore suggestions? I'm all ears! :)
SolidxSnake
08-19-06, 09:18 AM
Looks nice. The rad could be flipped around i'd expect.
orion456
08-19-06, 12:09 PM
Love the pump on the outside.
Put the fans into suck mode only, it will be much quieter for one thing.
RES > PUMP > RAD > CHIPSET (SWIFTECH) > CPU (SWIFTECH APOGEE) > GPU (ALPHACOOL) >
Sounds good but I prefer:
RAD(double) > RES > PUMP > CPU (SWIFTECH APOGEE) >CHIPSET (SWIFTECH) > RAD(double) > GPU (ALPHACOOL) >
You don't want your GPUs to be running like 10 degrees hotter then your CPU now do you?
That order is much more GPU overclocking friendly.
Also, I suggest a very good coolant if you'e not going extreme. I use gallium alloys and they whoops ass, but it costs about $1 for every 4ml and you'd then need a very strong pump and would be stuck with no more then 1/2" tubing unless you like to burn your cash.
Well, gallium coolant would last for about 20 years if you keep it clean and could be used for your future rigs...
AND REMEMBER!! THE 7950GX2 LOVES TO BE OVERCLOCKED! You should be able to hit 700mhz with an UBER rad!
MMmmMmm 20'000 3DMARK06 score... all I'd need is a second GX2 and the proper cooling...
Too bad 2 7950's will soon be owned by ATI's X2900XTX DX10 card... according to my "prijatelj" at ATI... it's said to hover at 1Ghz... :drool:
One Bull
08-19-06, 12:46 PM
Also, I suggest a very good coolant if you'e not going extreme. I use gallium alloys and they whoops ass, but it costs about $1 for every 4ml and you'd then need a very strong pump and would be stuck with no more then 1/2" tubing unless you like to burn your cash.
Well, gallium coolant would last for about 20 years if you keep it clean and could be used for your future rigs...
Are you seriousely using gallium in your loop?:santa:
Could you post a pic or a link or something? :O
Are you seriousely using gallium in your loop?:santa:
Could you post a pic or a link or something? :O
Using liquid gallium as a cooling has been done for about 60 years now in nuclear reactors now, but it's still just a work in progress for computers when it comes to making it work as best as possible.
http://www.techpowerup.com/?3105
My loop is made of 1/4" copper pipes, so there's nothing to see but some shiny pipes, in the link above those little bastarz think they've invented something new. :rolleyes: All I see is a minor improvement here and there, some old guy in his 80's will be going "WTF I invented that for nuclear subs years ago" if the patent goes through.
As for the EM pump... those run into problems after a while, they don't break, they degrade; which can be VERY ANNOYING since you'd have to replace it every time performance drops.
Using liquid gallium as a cooling has been done for about 60 years now in nuclear reactors now, but it's still just a work in progress for computers when it comes to making it work as best as possible.
http://www.techpowerup.com/?3105
My loop is made of 1/4" copper pipes, so there's nothing to see but some shiny pipes, in the link above those little bastarz think they've invented something new. :rolleyes: All I see is a minor improvement here and there, some old guy in his 80's will be going "WTF I invented that for nuclear subs years ago" if the patent goes through.
As for the EM pump... those run into problems after a while, they don't break, they degrade; which can be VERY ANNOYING since you'd have to replace it every time performance drops.
we would still like to see a pic though. copper pipe and all.:thup:
Moto7451
08-19-06, 11:39 PM
Soviet subs actually used Liquid Sodium, Liquid Lead, and Liquid Lead/Bismuth mixtures. The economics of Gallium make little sense compared to sodium or lead in a fast reaction system as seen in submarines.
The majority of marine nuclear reactors use pressurized water. To my knowledge, no nuclear reactor has used liquid gallium as a coolant. A few have used mercury and others have used gas cooling (Helium has and Carbon Dioxide for example).
Gallium however was used in the Fat Man nuclear bomb (Plutonium implosion style bomb; gallium stabilized the plutonium's structure). It is also used in other weapons grade plutonium devices (including some fast action reactors, maybe thats where you got the impression it was used as a coolant?).
In any case, its fun stuff and if you have the means and the time, its not a bad method of cooling.
vBulletin® v3.8.7, Copyright ©2000-2012, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.