Killed my Max 3

Well, it finally happened. After almost nine years of overclocking. I killed my first mobo
Here is who it happened.
I was accepted in to a university, so me and two other guys decided to move to the city, where the university is located. This would require me to move my entity setup, including my huge water cooling assembly. When I unplugged my computer, I stated to empty the system of water. But in a moment of pure stupidity, I accidentally sprayed water all over my system. I had to drain my case, that is how bad it was.
So, after disassembly of the entity system, and a night one the radiator, I installed the whole system again. Not knowing if it would still work. A week after moving, when I had finally started to settle in, I decided to power up the system. But first I had to assemble the water cooling. After mounting the res, radiator, pump and waterblocks (CPU and MOBO), I fired the system up. Power on, the little green led on the mobo started to glow, success. I thought. Boot bottom on, nothing.....After cross checking the diagram of the motherboard connections, I found the everything was put back together correctly. What can be wrong. Then I checked my northbridge. Somehow, the waterblock on the die, had crushed it. Two of the corners was broken. Malfunction found. Dammit.

Well, I found another max3, so not everything is lost. I dont want to go core due 2 yet, so buying a new/used max3 seems to be the best solution right now.
When I get the mobo, I will try to put everything back once again. But I still dont know if the GPU, Memory, CPU, HDD's (everything) still works after my little water accident
Only time will tell.
Update will follow

If it was distilled water it would be OK

if not it would have the minerals and such and after it dried it would leave deposits which could short it.

wing said:

If it was distilled water it would be OK

if not it would have the minerals and such and after it dried it would leave deposits which could short it.

Click to expand...

it was distilled water, but I dont know if it is working.

If you crushed the NB core, it is probably history.

Side note;

I recently built a rig for a special friend, based on the same (IC7 MAX3) board. I delivered it to her, and after a couple of days, she says it won't boot up any more. I go over and look. Pull off the side cover, and a tiny (NB retainer) metal loop is sitting on the video card, and the NB heatsink is swinging on the other loop. One green LED, and that is all. She brings it over to my house tonight, and I pull out my main IC7 Max3 (she got my back-up board) and replace the dead one, and it fires right up. I'm pretty sure the NorthBridge has been baked to death, since the fan probably fell off during the move. (This board was my back-up board, because it didn't overclock as wellas my primary one, so I think the loop was pulled off for a while. I run my boards flat, in the LEGO case, so the NB HS would still be making some weak contact.)

Luckily, I can still RMA this board. One of the benefits of being an ABIT Mod! (Although, the IC7 NB loop pullout has been well documented, and ABIT will still fix them.)

steve

Oh Brint, after having NUMEROUS water cooling "incedents" I run nothing but distilled water, with a small amount of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol in, to kill tiny nasties.

If you have a leak on an unpowered rig, just let it dry out. That is what I have done. (Numerous times!)

steve

IC-7 MaxII, can I RMA, should I RMA if I could?

Is the Max II still able to be RMA'd and if so will this yeild a better qualty board for a higher OC than what I can stand to gain with what i've got?

[will be placing board rev here in an edit ]

I'm beating a dead horse here, but she's gonna get up and fly away when I'm done! But should I get a different board to get a higher OC, such as a MaxIII or P4C800 Deluxe with DDR voltage booster (more dough I'd really not rather have to spend if its not worth any extra results)

pictures here:
http://photobucket.com/albums/c81/NunyaDamBidness/


Specs:

Prescott 3.4 @ 3860Mhz (currently) on Abit IC7-MaxII under an XP90C, 28 Fans in all: 16 Sanyo Denki (Japan) 92mm, 1 92mm Tornado on xp90c, 2x80mm Tornados (those 3 on Vantec rheobus/light cont.) 1 92mmx25 Nidec beta SL (next to drives, it was slim and I got a little over zealous with the hole saw at the time) 1 x 120MM IDC (Japan), 1 FOP 38 mounted under the board under the CPU, 1 on Thermalright NB-1C, 1 on Zalman VFC700Cu, 2 80mm in each PSU.

The rest of the goods:
1GB OCZ Plat Rev.2, BFG 6800Ultra @ 455MHz, 2x36Gb Raptors (in O) & 2x250GB Hitachi's (Raid1) w/Aerocool HB101s, 1 Double Stack Epson 3.5 & 5.25 floppy drive, NEC16X DL DVD-R, ThermalTake Butterfly 475W for lights and fans, and OCZ PowerStream 520W for system and HD's

To be adding & removing:
+Used VapoChill LS (willl need the help of the forums on this one!)
-BFG 6800ULTRA (to a friend for 225$ including vf700Cu)
+Gainward 7800GS+ (only 7900 core on AGP, and my last AGP card no doubt)
= 1 fast system that I'm curious to see how much it will trounce even some SLI systems

New board

Hey all. I got my "new" used maxIII, and it is up and running.
All I have to do now is to mod it so that it can match the performance of my old card. All of the other components are working fine, nothing to report.
Sorry for not replying that much in this post. But I don't have any internet until the first of september

NuBie said:

Is the Max II still able to be RMA'd and if so will this yeild a better qualty board for a higher OC than what I can stand to gain with what i've got?

[will be placing board rev here in an edit ]

I'm beating a dead horse here, but she's gonna get up and fly away when I'm done! But should I get a different board to get a higher OC, such as a MaxIII or P4C800 Deluxe with DDR voltage booster (more dough I'd really not rather have to spend if its not worth any extra results)

pictures here:
http://photobucket.com/albums/c81/NunyaDamBidness/


Specs:

Prescott 3.4 @ 3860Mhz (currently) on Abit IC7-MaxII under an XP90C, 28 Fans in all: 16 Sanyo Denki (Japan) 92mm, 1 92mm Tornado on xp90c, 2x80mm Tornados (those 3 on Vantec rheobus/light cont.) 1 92mmx25 Nidec beta SL (next to drives, it was slim and I got a little over zealous with the hole saw at the time) 1 x 120MM IDC (Japan), 1 FOP 38 mounted under the board under the CPU, 1 on Thermalright NB-1C, 1 on Zalman VFC700Cu, 2 80mm in each PSU.

The rest of the goods:
1GB OCZ Plat Rev.2, BFG 6800Ultra @ 455MHz, 2x36Gb Raptors (in O) & 2x250GB Hitachi's (Raid1) w/Aerocool HB101s, 1 Double Stack Epson 3.5 & 5.25 floppy drive, NEC16X DL DVD-R, ThermalTake Butterfly 475W for lights and fans, and OCZ PowerStream 520W for system and HD's

To be adding & removing:
+Used VapoChill LS (willl need the help of the forums on this one!)
-BFG 6800ULTRA (to a friend for 225$ including vf700Cu)
+Gainward 7800GS+ (only 7900 core on AGP, and my last AGP card no doubt)
= 1 fast system that I'm curious to see how much it will trounce even some SLI systems

Click to expand...

The only problem with the Max II is that it undervolts like hell. So dose the Max III, but not as much. If you have the guts to do a couple of volt mods to the MaxII then do it. It will help you a lot.
On my old Max III I did a cap mod, and it gave my just the little extra. But on my new board, I want to go a little but further. Like a drop mod and some other voltage stability mods.
Good luck

UPDATE

The new board has been modded. So now everything is back to normal.
I did some new modifications to my otes mod, so now the temps are down 5-8c.

I have tried to up my clock beyond 3500, but @ 3600 it is still very unstable.
So no gain, but it works.