ASUS P5W-DH Camel mods (NO 56k !)

[Joe Camel]

.

NO i did NOT come up with these mods... i followed THESE (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=103567&highlight=p5w+mods) directions




i started modding the mobo on Sunday.

ive decided to do the MCH, V-core, and V-Dimm mods.

im trying to make this a little less GHETTO than most of my mods

the plan is to run ALL the wires to a central area and also hard mod
the measuring points to a MOLEX. this should make for "easy" adjustment
and monitoring.


(YES im going to BLOW UP my posts with MONSTER pics)

to put these CLOSE-UP pics into perspective, the wire is a
SINGLE strand from and IDE Ribbon cable. :eek:





first i did a little practicing on a DEAD ATi 9700 video card just to
refresh myself and get warmed up.

i picked the same components to practice on that i need to work on in the real mod




http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/9936/pict0310ka2.jpg





now i put the REAL patent on the operating table





http://img53.imageshack.us/img53/1039/pict0311ea6.jpg





here we have the V-core mod

this is VERY close to the CPU socket and thus has been slathered with
Dielectric grease... please excuse the goop :p





http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/7776/pict0314ek6.jpg





this is the V-Dimm mod

i could NOT get to the ground leg of the IC, there is a cap in the way, so
i will be running the ground for this mod through the MCH ground.






http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/4489/pict0315yt1.jpg





last but not least, the MCH mod

this is probably my best set of IC solders EVER :thup:
this was also the first set i did after practicing






http://img53.imageshack.us/img53/3053/pict0312jx2.jpg






as of right now, the "board side" of the mods are done and the
clear nail polish is drying.

i used it as glue to secure the wire to the mobo a few
CM from the solder, this way if a wire gets pulled the "glue" should
get stressed NOT the solder point



i hope to finish this up tonight.

ill post more pics as the project progresses.






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[nvidiaOCmaster]

Joe Camel is too 1337.... If I could keep my hand steady enough to even write my name, i would totally start modding my mobo.

Nice work :thup:

[Super Nade]

Hey JC a few suggestions:-


Use a bit of heat-shrink tube to wrap up the naked ends. (Check operating temp of the shink before you buy, since some tubes crystallize at cold temperatures.)
You might not want to use *any* ground, although on-board, digital and analog GND's are fused at one point, introducing additional bridge points between digital and analog/power grounds may result in suprious signals (similar to a ground loop, but in the RF domain). If this happens, a possible solution would be to introduce a 0.1 uF tanatlum cap from +VCC/-VEE/signal point to the ground point you are using. I'm not saying you WILL have problems with stability, but if you do, this is one way to fix it.Just my 0.02 c :)

[meionm]

How much does the vcore droop from idle on that board under load? Did anybody measure it with multimeter?

Some boards have vmch option in bios upto 1.85v

[Joe Camel]

.


i could not measure the V-core with a DMM due to the point being under my insulation... :(

i will make sure to document my board's droop once this is done


after reading that the newer boards have (in BIOS) MCH up to 1.85V is THE reason i decided to put an iron to the board



Super Nade,

your knowledge of this subject is far beyond mine... i just look @ the pretty pictures and solder to the same points. :D

keeping that in mind, kyosen wired his ground wire the way i described above (and thus why i would/will)


.

[xTrEmEoVrClOcKr]

I hope to volt-mod my P5W-DH very soon, not sure if it's necessary to Volt mod when I have a 10x multi.

[CraZy Muffin]

nice soldering there joe, hopefully my unsteady hand can do this properly also. I just got all the stuff to do this but since this is my first actual volt mod, i do have a couple questions. (i was staring at your pics and the ones on extremeforums.com but still confused)


1. on the actual VR units, there are 3 leads, i think i know which ones to connect to the board, but what is the third for.

i am planning on doing the Vcore and Vmch volt mods, i can see how the vcore one is setup, but im confused with the MCH, so

2. Which 2 wires go to the VR in the third pic, i see 3 wires in there and
3. which 2 contacts do i touch with my voltmeter to measure the voltage the mch is using.

sorry if my questions seem noobish, but like I said this will be my first attempt at volt modding on a motherboard.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

[four4875]

if you havnt already, i highly reccomend my guide on soldering :D its in this section, a sticky at the top

for the VRs, the middle pin has variable resistance between the outer pins. when you turn the knob one way, resistance gets lower between the middle and one pin. when you turn it the other way, resistance is lowered between the middle and other pin. it doesnt really matter which pins you use, it's just a good idea to set them up so you always turn the same way for more voltage, and then stick to that so you dont confuse yourself and end up lowering it when you want to raise it, or vice versa. as for the other questions, im not sure on the answers so someone else will have to cover.

[CraZy Muffin]

ok cool, i didnt notice the guide before.

Thanks for that answer, now i see how it work. awesome. just need to be clarified on where to put everthing and il be ready to mod

[CraZy Muffin]

well i went ahead and tried to put the VR on the Vcore, but dot think it worked.

when i put power to the motherboard, it turns on for a couple seconds and then back off (it has done that since i got the motherboard) but when i hit the power button nothing happens..

it doesnt show the resistance on the VR legs as 40k anymore either...

EDIT: ok well i guess my power switch has died or something because when i put my reset switch to power it booted. looks like it works so far... just glad i didnt kill my motherboard.

[Joe Camel]

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/2589/pict0321rl9.jpg




http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/9403/pict0320cm8.jpg



ehhh still looks GHETTO to ME :p



.

[CraZy Muffin]

looks a lot better then mine, now to see how well they work

[Joe Camel]

.


not tonight (for me)



please make sure you know which points to solder to and test the legs with a DMM to make SURE you know which you are soldering to!!

1x wrong move and you could EASILY kill one (or MORE) of: mobo, CPU, memory

this IS NOT a project for the "beginner"


BE CAREFUL!!!!

dont try to hard mod something you cant "afford" to replace!!!


.

[CraZy Muffin]

well, i know which points to soldier, shown by my ability to successfully impliment the Vcore mod :clap:, got that working great. now i just need to know where to put my voltmeter to test the mch voltage since i cant see that in BIOS/windows.

got my e6600 to 3.8ghz in windows, but the temp is getting high. 38C-45C. would rather start increasing mch voltage now.

[Gautam]

Looking great as always. :thup:

[CraZy Muffin]

ok well i see where the Vmch monitoring wire is, but please tell me this, whats the other point you have to touch to see the voltage with a voltmeter, just any ground? or the vmch ground?

[Joe Camel]

any ground

[four4875]

i always just stick the multimeter - probe in a molex's ground, it stays there and works.

[CraZy Muffin]

ya, thats what i ended up doing, thanks!

got it all moded now and seems to be working great! now all i need to worry about are my temps... anyone know the threshold for the Core 2 duos and/or the Asus P5W motherboard northbridge?

[CraZy Muffin]

well if anyone is or going to attempt this mod, a word of warning. I was turning up my Vmch slowly trying to see what it will take for it to heat up, and even though it was still at 38C, my comp starting having a seizure at around 2.15V.... thought i blew something up for sure, but i reset my CMOS and it works just dandy now.

[Joe Camel]

.


2.15v :eek::eek::eek:

wow you ARE one CRAZY Muffin :p

i seem not to be able to boot @ > 1.8V (MCH) but this is just a "first impression" i haven't REALLY tested enough to say this for SURE



DROOP:

i have a .02V DROOP in V-Core from Idle to Load (1x Pi = "load") i have not tested 2x Pi programs.
WILL do more testing tonight / this weekend!


.

[CraZy Muffin]

.
wow you ARE one CRAZY Muffin :p
.


LOL yup

well after installing the mod (having it on highest resistance, and 1.65v in BIOS) it shows as 1.85v when going between 1.85 and 2.1, it doesnt seem like i can get any higher FSB.

the only way i can bump that up is by turning up the Vcore. (at 1.875v i could boot into windows at 3.9Ghz but thats as high as i could go without going over 47C idle so i didnt want to push it)

it doesnt seem like the vmch and vcore mods have actually helped me to overclock further, no matter what voltages are, the highest stable clock i can get is 3.6ghz, (400mhz FSB)

[Joe Camel]

yes, TEMPS will be the next "wall" you will hit

i dont think anyone needs higher V-core unless you are Cascade, Dry-Ice or LN2 cooling. even with a SS (single stage phase-change unit) i doubt many will see improved OC's going with higher than BIOS lets you.

i would have assumed that the MCH mod would let you get a higher FSB (drop the multi so as to not go above your 3.6GHz) than stock but who knows



this will be tonight's test:

1) can i get higher than the 447 FSB i was able to hit "stock"
2) DROOP with dual Pi's
3) Max MCH i can boot with...can i raise IN windows and see improvement

[RangerXLT8]

if you havnt already, i highly reccomend my guide on soldering :D its in this section, a sticky at the top

for the VRs, the middle pin has variable resistance between the outer pins. when you turn the knob one way, resistance gets lower between the middle and one pin. when you turn it the other way, resistance is lowered between the middle and other pin. it doesnt really matter which pins you use, it's just a good idea to set them up so you always turn the same way for more voltage, and then stick to that so you dont confuse yourself and end up lowering it when you want to raise it, or vice versa. as for the other questions, im not sure on the answers so someone else will have to cover.

Arew those the big Xanax in your avy? If so LOL, the ole' days.

[Joe Camel]

.


hey now were talking VOLT mods NOT brain MODS :p


mmmmm the ole' days.... happy hazy memories :beer:
(former "non traveling" Dead Head here ;) ... RIP Jerry , RIP)


.

[four4875]

Arew those the big Xanax in your avy? If so LOL, the ole' days.

no they're generics. haha. gotta rock the bars

[RangerXLT8]

.


hey now were talking VOLT mods NOT brain MODS :p


mmmmm the ole' days.... happy hazy memories :beer:
(former "non traveling" Dead Head here ;) ... RIP Jerry , RIP)


.

LOL. Looking forward to your results.

[Joe Camel]

LOL. Looking forward to your results.





http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/3428/285fsbjy5.jpg



1M stable... 485 FSB @ 2.1V MCH

Swiftech copper HSF with dual fan (counter rotating) DELTA screamer (SEE post #11)


not too bad :D


:beer:


EDIT:
now if i can hit 4.85GHz on Dry Ice is a REAL good question.... :drool:

think ill work on tightening these Mem timings.


.

[Gautam]

I'm more impressed by the 485MHz CAS 3. :eek:

Real nice stuff. :thup:

[Joe Camel]

2.65V on the MEM

1.70V-core (dont need it @ this speed but im testing the chilly1 capacity while im here)
2.1V MCH


running 32M right now @ 480 .... finished

chilly1 hit -35C ... single 32M load



http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/2207/480fsb32mvm1.jpg








--------------






EDIT: ... BIG EDIT


i can NOT boot with MCH higher than what i have it set @ in BIOS (read off the V-mod DMM)

i have to turn it back down to 1.65V ...then it boots... without a reset or anything. WHILE im adjusting the POT, the thing will start booting as soon as i hit my BIOS setting. :bang head

then i turn it back up after windows has booted :-/





.

[Super Nade]

Hey dude, I was wondering if you saw these pencil mods :)

http://sg.vr-zone.com/?i=3876

[four4875]

put in a switch on the mod?

[CraZy Muffin]

well that 480FSB is VERY impressive, but the whole vmch thing sounds kinda weird. mine will boot fine as long as im under 2.2v but it doesnt help any so i guess i will try lowering multiplier and seeing how high i can get.

[Joe Camel]

put in a switch on the mod?

oooo - yaaaa

i LIKE that idea A LOT!!!

:beer:THANKS!! :beer:

[four4875]

i'd just be worried of how it handles the sudden impact on the voltage when the switchis hit.

im sure something creative could be done, where a relay closes once the comp is turned on, so it boots then a wee bit later, hits on the vmod and tadaa all is well. i dunno how you'd go about a smooth start type thing, where it slowly (quickly) ramps up the V.

[Joe Camel]

.


ready for some REAL fun? :clap:

(i AM)




http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/8154/pict0322fi8.jpg



ya, i thought about the sudden jump in volts... ive had to go "slow" when raising MCH or it can lock.

guess a switch wont be the best plan... good try :thup:

[four4875]

those 40mm fans SCREAM dont they? i have 4 sittin in front of me :D

too loud for my taste

[Super Nade]

i'd just be worried of how it handles the sudden impact on the voltage when the switchis hit.

im sure something creative could be done, where a relay closes once the comp is turned on, so it boots then a wee bit later, hits on the vmod and tadaa all is well. i dunno how you'd go about a smooth start type thing, where it slowly (quickly) ramps up the V.

Setting up a slow/soft start ckt is very easy. An RC ckt could act as a slow start device. You could set a time constant of 10-100 ms i.e 1/R*C = x ms. Alternatively you could make a simple line filter type ckt i.e something like:-

http://img482.imageshack.us/img482/7991/rcslowstartqv6.jpg

** C1= Electrolytic 16V/25V
* C2= Tantalum (same voltage)
I use more complicated ckts, with push-pull transistors etc..

If you are willing to do things the way pro's do it, look HERE (http://www.analogzone.com/pwrt1101.pdf#search=%22Slow%20start%20transistor%2 0circuit%22). :D

[RangerXLT8]

JC what is in the mousespot(that's a mousespot right)?

[Joe Camel]

JC what is in the mousespot(that's a mousespot right)?
nope thats a Camel Pipe (see sig. lots-o-pics)

"mousepot" assumes the tube was made by MickeyMouse

mine was made by me :D


anyway,

Acetone and Dry Ice are in it


:beer:



EDIT:

got nowhere fast tonight :(

first off i can no longer run MCH @ 2.1V anything above 1.95V and it locks

i can just barley match/beat my sig speed, so the V-Core didnt really help any


got another 8 hours of benching worth of D-ice left so ill try again tomorrow but im not holding my breath :(

[four4875]

one of the things i want to make this year is a DI tube or 2. i figure i can get away with a copper base and then somethin like aluminum or steel for the rest of the tube. then it'd be a four tube. i have to do a senior project, which involves a research paper and presentation and making a product.. so i thinkin ill either do phase change or di / ln2, i could make an evap for phase (im leanin towards this route for the project) and the tubes.

[Joe Camel]

mixing metals has a few problems...

1) cant weld copper ... dont know if you can braze alu (to copper)

2) heat expansion or in this case, cold contraction.... as metals heat they expand, cool contract. but each metal has its own delta (change) so the alu might contract more and faster than the copper thus putting A LOT of stress on the joint between the two.



im NOT educated enough to know the answers to these possible problems, i just know they exist.

[Gautam]

one of the things i want to make this year is a DI tube or 2. i figure i can get away with a copper base and then somethin like aluminum or steel for the rest of the tube. then it'd be a four tube. i have to do a senior project, which involves a research paper and presentation and making a product.. so i thinkin ill either do phase change or di / ln2, i could make an evap for phase (im leanin towards this route for the project) and the tubes.
Not to threadjack, but copper base and brass tube sounds like what you'd want. You can braze those two together, not alu.

[four4875]

i was thinkin to just have 2 nice highly flat surfaces, and have them screwed together. i'd think as long as it was held nice and snug, flat surfaces matig, it wouldnt leak. or at least i'd hope. or i can mill out a nice copper evap block for a phase change loop instead :-D

i think a goal of -15C load seems somethin good to aim for, for my northwood 2.6 how much colder does DI run as opposed to phase? i like the phase idea for a full time daily gamer (does a whole lot more folding and mj12 than gaming :-/ ) and not have to spend money on the DI, plus the nearest source im aware of is a good 10 miles away, next town over.

[Joe Camel]

now that thats done....



http://img226.imageshack.us/img226/8881/pict0353bb8.jpg
note: i ground my DMM to the Mach unit ;)



make sure to check out THIS (http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=476059) thread for D-Ice cooling on the master card :D





.

[Super Nade]

mixing metals has a few problems...

1) cant weld copper ... dont know if you can braze alu (to copper)

2) heat expansion or in this case, cold contraction.... as metals heat they expand, cool contract. but each metal has its own delta (change) so the alu might contract more and faster than the copper thus putting A LOT of stress on the joint between the two.



im NOT educated enough to know the answers to these possible problems, i just know they exist.

Why use two different metals? :)

[four4875]

cheaper and more readily available to me (free as opposed to having to buy it)

and on another off topic.. i think today my a7n8x is gonna get vmodded. at least vcore, maxin my applebred at 1.8 at 42C load. and im not too concerned with killin this cpu either lol.

[krag]

Guatam or JC, can either of you tell me where your Ohms are when you started (I assume the pots were Ohmed out) and were your Ohms are now with the volt readigns? I have 2 100k pots here but no 20k pots and need to know the Ohmage before I start soldering.

[Joe Camel]

the pots are (both MCH and DIMM) 10k
and the V-Core is 50k

i dont know what im @ now as i started @ MAX and worked my way down.


(Camel Pipe is off being tested and i dont have any D-Ice anyway)



might want to check your local RadioShack, i got a 10k pot there B4 my Mouser order came in.

[four4875]

i think radioshack only carries multi turn pots in 10k, at least my local one is like that

[krag]

Ok, I'm in on the V-dimm mod. The solder blotch is pretty ugly but its on the right IC leg and holds good.

[krag]

A closer shot of it. I like C.J's closeup pic alot. It was the pick that helped me get this right. :)

[krag]

Got my measure point all soldered in now. The V-r is a 100k that i have turned down to 10k, it should work well.

[four4875]

lookin nice. i only wish i had the cash to play with nice new goodies like that lol. /druel