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(Clanger)(DOA)
10-22-06, 11:07 PM
I just added iodine to the loop and it turned tha water like a greenish color. I hope i got the right iodine???


I got the
Generic Iodine tincture usp

Maviryk
10-22-06, 11:11 PM
???

Under active ingredients... does it say Povidine-Iodine?

Moto7451
10-22-06, 11:15 PM
Green? Should be more brownish. You don't need to use a lot however.

Maviryk
10-22-06, 11:19 PM
Hey I just checked... you're using the wrong stuff...

You want Povidone-Iodine.

(Clanger)(DOA)
10-22-06, 11:25 PM
ats what i was afriad of, well you think that this stuff will hurt anyhting?

Maviryk
10-22-06, 11:25 PM
This stuffhttp://img97.imageshack.us/img97/9057/dsc01111ne7.th.jpg (http://img97.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc01111ne7.jpg)

I don't think that tincture will hurt anything, it just Iodine in Ethanol.

(Clanger)(DOA)
10-22-06, 11:32 PM
hmm ic well will the stuff that i just dupmed into my loop hurt it????????:S (nice cat ) (edit) well not that i read the whole post. ok,

Maviryk
10-22-06, 11:44 PM
I looked up the ingredients on the tincture, it has Ethanol in it which acts as an electrolyte.

I dont' see why it turned the water green though. Put some drops into a glass of distilled water and see if that turns green. Do you have anti-corrosive in your loop?

I'm not sure, but perhaps the ethanol reacted with the copper ions in the water to make them green? I didnt' really pay attention in chem lab.

Mv830
10-25-06, 04:12 PM
Yeah I am new to the whole water cooling experience, what exactly does adding Iodine to your water do?

Maviryk
10-25-06, 04:24 PM
It kills bacterial and any other life that wants to grow in your water loop. Antifreeze just prevents corrosion, it doesn't stop growth. So it's best to use a mixture of distilled + iodine + antifreeze.

Mv830
10-25-06, 04:25 PM
Well once you do that can you still add your UV dyes or is that too many chemicals in one solution?:-/

(Clanger)(DOA)
10-25-06, 07:48 PM
i have no idea, i would guess you could add your dyes too.

Mv830
10-25-06, 07:52 PM
How is your system running now with both radiators?:santa:

(Clanger)(DOA)
10-25-06, 07:56 PM
How is your system running now with both radiators?:santa:


Pretty good temps are low the water has turned clear again after puttin the iodine in......... werid. This weekend my custom plexieglass side panels should be done. I have to reroute some tubing and wiring so i can get the sides on my case compleat pics to come this sunday.

Mv830
10-25-06, 07:57 PM
I know you said you painted your case yourself. How difficult was that?

(Clanger)(DOA)
10-25-06, 08:02 PM
I know you said you painted your case yourself. How difficult was that?


well it was a rush job, it wasnt too hard. One can flat black and one can of textured metal/plastics paint. 3 coats of each.

Mv830
10-25-06, 08:09 PM
I honestly just got my stacker830 from ZZf this afternoon and I am already thinking about painting it, lol. My role model right now is the blacker stacker but idk if I will paint it yet

GreenJelly
10-27-06, 07:59 PM
The pumps are built for salt water... they can take the abuse...

Copper will corrode, but I dont think from Alchool. I would flush the system...

Then again, I would not use anything but a commercial non-conductive solution. Just too much risk.

wowza
10-27-06, 08:15 PM
The pumps are built for salt water... they can take the abuse...

Copper will corrode, but I dont think from Alchool. I would flush the system...

Then again, I would not use anything but a commercial non-conductive solution. Just too much risk.

I would flush the system as said above. For a Watercooling loop, you can add 1 part water wetter (to help protect your metals, because this is going through copper, and possibly aluminum in your radiator), 2 parts Antifreeze, and 5 parts distilled water.(no tap water due to minerals). That should get you flowing right :)

Copper will crode from bleach and a few other chemicals, but not from alky. Btw, isn't pure iodine suppost to be purple?

GreenJelly
10-27-06, 08:35 PM
I would flush the system as said above. For a Watercooling loop, you can add 1 part water wetter (to help protect your metals, because this is going through copper, and possibly aluminum in your radiator), 2 parts Antifreeze, and 5 parts distilled water.(no tap water due to minerals). That should get you flowing right :)

Copper will crode from bleach and a few other chemicals, but not from alky. Btw, isn't pure iodine suppost to be purple?

Hope you dont get a leak in the middle of the night, when the CPU is hot and the water expands, and then the hose ages, and or something breaks, and then Spray... your computer is dead...

Thats also WAY too much antifreeze. 10% or less and thats without waterwetter.

anyways, home chemists playing with their chemicals thinking they know what their talking about...

I dont trust them, and I dont trust myself. I buy products for that reason. PrimoChill Ice is good, the more expensive one is made by a really good chemist who has 110 patents. Its not easy to get that many patents, I would trust his product.;

(Clanger)(DOA)
10-27-06, 08:36 PM
yeah, im flushing it this weekend.

voigts
10-28-06, 12:28 AM
Hope you dont get a leak in the middle of the night, when the CPU is hot and the water expands, and then the hose ages, and or something breaks, and then Spray... your computer is dead...

Thats also WAY too much antifreeze. 10% or less and thats without waterwetter.

anyways, home chemists playing with their chemicals thinking they know what their talking about...

I dont trust them, and I dont trust myself. I buy products for that reason. PrimoChill Ice is good, the more expensive one is made by a really good chemist who has 110 patents. Its not easy to get that many patents, I would trust his product.;

I have seen a number of threads with pics where Primochill clogged up CPU blocks as if you poured sludge into them.

I personally think that Fluid XP and the like are a waste of money. They will become conductive in short order once in a loop, and simply do not guarantee at all that a leak won't kill anything. I have read many a thread of people with leaks using distilled water and a bit of additive that do just fine in the event of a leak. I have a friend that somehow twice managed to get a hose worked loose and soaked his MB. I took it apart both times, did the rubbing alcohol thing, and it still lives. It just depends whether or not the fluid is conductive enough and hits a place that shorts out or not. But don't think that Fluid XP or the like are any kind of lasting assurance.

GreenJelly
10-28-06, 08:43 AM
I have seen a number of threads with pics where Primochill clogged up CPU blocks as if you poured sludge into them.

I personally think that Fluid XP and the like are a waste of money. They will become conductive in short order once in a loop, and simply do not guarantee at all that a leak won't kill anything. I have read many a thread of people with leaks using distilled water and a bit of additive that do just fine in the event of a leak. I have a friend that somehow twice managed to get a hose worked loose and soaked his MB. I took it apart both times, did the rubbing alcohol thing, and it still lives. It just depends whether or not the fluid is conductive enough and hits a place that shorts out or not. But don't think that Fluid XP or the like are any kind of lasting assurance.

Out of all of the liquids, Fluid XP is the most expensive. But I trust it more then any other liquid. The man that makes it is a very good chemist. There are articles that explain all of the products. I have heard things about every additive. Waterwetter is not good on some plastics. Anti-Freeze is to prevent the water from freazing, and has a few chemicals to help absorb heat. But Anti-Freeze is made for very high temps, and very cold temps.

The best article on these things that I have read is on this site...

http://www.overclockers.com/articles993/
http://www.overclockers.com/tips1153/

wowza
10-28-06, 09:07 AM
Out of all of the liquids, Fluid XP is the most expensive. But I trust it more then any other liquid. The man that makes it is a very good chemist. There are articles that explain all of the products. I have heard things about every additive. Waterwetter is not good on some plastics. Anti-Freeze is to prevent the water from freazing, and has a few chemicals to help absorb heat. But Anti-Freeze is made for very high temps, and very cold temps.

The best article on these things that I have read is on this site...

http://www.overclockers.com/articles993/
http://www.overclockers.com/tips1153/
Water wetter is fine on most plastics, many people tend to stear away from WW because it's rater sticky and messey. If you want a more basic setup, just grab a gallon of distilled water at the store, and buy some Swiftech Hydrx (http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-Hydrx-Extreme-Duty-Coolant-UV-REACTIVE-pr-2476.html). It's expensive, but it's a no hassle solution to your problem.

(Clanger)(DOA)
10-29-06, 04:54 PM
im gonna run some anti freeze and this (http://www.irnetcom.com/directory-of-companies/automotive/hyper-lube/hyper-lube.htm)

SolidxSnake
10-29-06, 05:06 PM
Hope you dont get a leak in the middle of the night, when the CPU is hot and the water expands, and then the hose ages, and or something breaks, and then Spray... your computer is dead...


Howzabout you test out your "non-conductive fluid" by running a cheap computer on aircooling, and then draining your WC loop over that computer.

The results may surprise you ;)

voigts
10-29-06, 05:41 PM
If I am not mistaken, you don't need to use both antifreeze and hyperlube. Actually, if you are using all copper parts, you can go with just distilled water and some iodine or algaecide. You really don't have to have antifreeze or hyperlube at all.

SolidxSnake
10-29-06, 06:00 PM
If I am not mistaken, you don't need to use both antifreeze and hyperlube. Actually, if you are using all copper parts, you can go with just distilled water and some iodine or algaecide. You really don't have to have antifreeze or hyperlube at all.


+1

ziggo0
10-29-06, 06:06 PM
If I am not mistaken, you don't need to use both antifreeze and hyperlube. Actually, if you are using all copper parts, you can go with just distilled water and some iodine or algaecide. You really don't have to have antifreeze or hyperlube at all.

I thought that the antifreeze was used to help keep the pump lubricated or something other?

GreenJelly
10-29-06, 06:56 PM
Howzabout you test out your "non-conductive fluid" by running a cheap computer on aircooling, and then draining your WC loop over that computer.

The results may surprise you ;)

why not just test the resistance of the liquid?

Doh... wait I did that.

BTW People have submerged their PC's in Fluid XP... Ran it for 6 hours.

wowza
10-29-06, 07:06 PM
I thought that the antifreeze was used to help keep the pump lubricated or something other?
nope, cheap solution to help fight algea, or some people use it for a sub-zero water loop.

{FKR}Loki
10-29-06, 07:48 PM
Here's to a successful flush http://www.4wd.com/4wdforums/images/smilies/OnTheCan.gif

SolidxSnake
10-29-06, 08:22 PM
nope, cheap solution to help fight algea, or some people use it for a sub-zero water loop.

Nope again, it does not fight algae. It's a corrosion inhibitor. It prevents galvanic corrosion in loops with copper and aluminum.

Iodine, on the other hand, fights algae.

voigts
10-29-06, 09:22 PM
I thought that the antifreeze was used to help keep the pump lubricated or something other?

Antifreeze is only really used as an anticorrosive, but it really is only necessary if you have aluminum and copper in your loop. The pump doesn't require any extra lubricant at all and is designed to use just water.

Maviryk
10-29-06, 09:29 PM
I thought that the antifreeze was used to help keep the pump lubricated or something other?

AFAIK the pumps used for WCing don't need anything other than water for lube. The antifreeze is to keep down corrosion, increase heat transfer (supposedly, Water Wetter advertises this). I do not believe they contain anything to lube the pump.

GreenJelly
10-30-06, 08:56 AM
Antifreeze is only really used as an anticorrosive, but it really is only necessary if you have aluminum and copper in your loop. The pump doesn't require any extra lubricant at all and is designed to use just water.

Lets make this a bit more clear to people... Chances are your pump was built to pump saltwater filled with micro-organisims, and the occassional fish poop.

Moto7451
10-31-06, 01:11 AM
why not just test the resistance of the liquid?

Doh... wait I did that.

BTW People have submerged their PC's in Fluid XP... Ran it for 6 hours.

I'd like to see a link for that. There is nothing in Fluid XP that makes it any more or any less conductive than regular Distilled Water. "Non conductive" is just marketing. Go mix some copper ions in there and some metal salts and have fun with your now conductive fluid. This is what happens when you pour Fluid XP into a water cooling loop.

You could be the best chemist on the planet but you're not going to be able to change simple physics. Any aqueous solution with metal ions or metal salts will become conductive.

QuietIce
10-31-06, 05:14 AM
I'd like to see a link for that. There is nothing in Fluid XP that makes it any more or any less conductive than regular Distilled Water. "Non conductive" is just marketing. Go mix some copper ions in there and some metal salts and have fun with your now conductive fluid. This is what happens when you pour Fluid XP into a water cooling loop.

You could be the best chemist on the planet but you're not going to be able to change simple physics. Any aqueous solution with metal ions or metal salts will become conductive. I agree - let them run Fluid XP (or any other "non-conductive" liquid) through a cooling loop for 6 months THEN submerse their running PC in it ... ;)

Moto7451
10-31-06, 10:54 PM
And thats the key, it doesn't matter if you spill while filling your rig, it matters if something happens down the road and I don't care if the bottle does back flips and can tell jokes, the fluid *will* become conductive just as fast as distilled will.

voigts
11-01-06, 12:02 AM
I agree - let them run Fluid XP (or any other "non-conductive" liquid) through a cooling loop for 6 months THEN submerse their running PC in it ... ;)

That is exactly what I would like to see. If it is non-conductive after 6 months of being in a loop, then and only then might I be impressed.

GreenJelly
11-01-06, 07:56 AM
That is exactly what I would like to see. If it is non-conductive after 6 months of being in a loop, then and only then might I be impressed.

Your assuming that FluidXP/PrimoICE has a high solubility for coper and Iron, which as a non-corrosive agent it probably has a very low solubility. Again, simple tests can prove / disprove this idea. Water is relatively non-conductive, what makes it conductive is the metals, salts, etc in it.

I dont have all the answers. Just point to a person who has complained that Fluid XP has ruined their motherboard, after using it for a year.

My idea is that the greatest threat these components have is that if they are non-conductive, and that they get into the memory slots etc, that they could prevent them from working or raise the connect's resistance.

As for a test of its conductivity, a simple meter will tell you that. Ive have just changed my liquid to fresh liquid, because I ran out of the first bottle. Modding the system, and draining it, was a bit messy at first and I did spill some each time. So I eventually had to buy another bottle.

Edit: Independent Lab Tests of Fluid XP, including conductivity. I was not able to get that level of precision.

http://www.fluidxp.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=FAQ&file=index&myfaq=yes&id_cat=1#21

Edit Agian: Personal experiances with FluidXP and leaks/Problems... Sounds like it had Algae issues... Im reaserching PrimoIce to see if it has Algae Issues. I may have to add something to it to prevent this. I hear of people complaining about sludge with this stuff. That may be the reason. The more expensive fluidXP might have anti-algae in it. These problems may have also been solved over time, with a simple modification to the formula by the manufacturers.
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1105162&page=1&pp=20

I have problems finding the site for PrimoICE... Kinda difficult to get started if the stuff doesnt seem to have a website. Any Help?

What my research has come up with is allot of stories of people using water, and having leaks that cause problems... and allot of stories about people using primoICE or FluidXP and having leaks that didnt cause any problems... Biggest complaint about these products, is its damn sticky (Which I have to agree with).

Personally I have a small AC->DC(12 watt) converter that I use on my pump for a few days to test for leaks, well before I plug it in.

Mike

GreenJelly
11-01-06, 08:58 AM
http://www.primochill.com/index.html