Need help on a watercooling setup

andyl33t · Nov 7, 2006

I am going to get a new computer and was wondering on all the watercooling stuff I should get.

Core 2 duo
G80 (i will decide when the WB are out for these)
3 way radiator
T-line or res?
What size pipes should I get?
Also I need the pump to be able to handle SLI.

I don't really have a limit, but i dont want it to be too expensive.

Thanks

andyl33t · Nov 8, 2006

Does anyone know? I was thinking of getting the storm G4, but its out of stock everywhere, whats the next best? Was also getting the Thermochill PA120.3.

speed bump · Nov 8, 2006

If you can't find a storm the Cooltechnica MP-05 would probably be the second best.

For Tubing go with 1/2" if you have room or 7/16" and 1/2" barbs if you don't have much room.

For a pump probably a DDC with an alphacool or Petras tech shop top.

Personally I like T-lines but if you want to go res then the Swiftech Micro res is a popular choice.

ctrl_alt_del_ · Nov 8, 2006

CPU - Storm, Apogee or MP-05

GPU - NONE - no blocks will fit the new cards yet. Wait until they release the cards.

Tubbing - 7/16" over 1/2" barbs - great tight fit along with some worm clamps. Easier to route in your case and very little flow reduction. Just dip the tube in some hot water and it fits over the barbs easily.

Pump - I am a fan of the D4/D5 pumps but the DCC with Petra's top should be even better.

Radiator - if you have the cash, Thermochill is the way to go. If not, BIX3 if you want something cheaper.

Have fun!!

andyl33t · Nov 8, 2006

What about a res? Do they still leak a lot? Why should I get 7/16" and not 1/2" tubing?

Thanks

Maviryk · Nov 8, 2006

ctrl_alt_del_ said:
CPU - Storm, Apogee or MP-05

GPU - NONE - no blocks will fit the new cards yet. Wait until they release the cards.

Tubbing - 7/16" over 1/2" barbs - great tight fit along with some worm clamps. Easier to route in your case and very little flow reduction. Just dip the tube in some hot water and it fits over the barbs easily.

Pump - I am a fan of the D4/D5 pumps but the MCC with Petra's top should be even better.

Radiator - if you have the cash, Thermochill is the way to go. If not, BIX3 if you want something cheaper.

Have fun!!

Meh... I bet a Maze4(or any other waterblock for that matter) can be modded to fit a G80 easily with some taps.

For the pump you mean the DDC+ right? Not MCC. D5 or DDC+ with modded top(DDCT-01 by Petra or the Alphacool top) will work fine.

As for cheap rads... I spent $40(shipped) for two Fedco 2-199 heatercores from Autozone. They're in a radbox with only 1 fan pulling air through it. Keeps my Opty 165 and 1900Xt nice and cool.

As for T-line or res: If you go internal watercooling, use a T-line. If you go external, go res.

There are currently no commercial reserviors which will perform up to par with homemade ones. Eddy EK is making one which will but I don't know when his will hit production. You can make your own res with some tupperware and 3 bulkhead fittings(electrical aisle of Lowes).

Bleedtime depends almost entirely on your coolant. Any properly routed (T-line/res placed before inlet of pump) system can be bled of air in 5 minutes or less if you use 100% Distilled Water first, and then introduce additives after the loop is full.

andyl33t · Nov 8, 2006

What additive should I use? Also why would i need a modded top for the DDC+? I think im gnna go with the D5 Vario.
Thanks

Maviryk · Nov 8, 2006

7/16" Masterclear is cheaper and easier to route than 1/2" Tygon tubing.

However, it is a pain to stretch onto oversized fittings(heatercore barbs, 1/2" bulkhead fittings). I find that a little boiling water(and a few zipties) goes a long way to help Tygon bend in the tightest of spaces(see case in sig).

The DDC+ stock does not perform as well as the D5, but with a modded top it performs better, but also costs ~$30 more.

As for additives... a few drops of Providone Iodine from the first aid section of a store, and a few caps of antifreeze/water wetter/xerex (anticorrosives).

andyl33t · Nov 8, 2006

So you would recommend 7/16" piping? Also why should i use Providone Iodine?

thanks

ctrl_alt_del_ · Nov 8, 2006

Yes 7/16" tubes are the way to go - I have used both and 7/16" is easier to route and will give you a tighter fit.

I personally use 80/20 misture of VW antifreeze and distilled water. No growth in over 2 years...

andyl33t · Nov 8, 2006

Can I use 3/8"? How many mL of zerex would I need?

Thanks

ctrl_alt_del_ · Nov 8, 2006

stay away from 3/8" - too restrictive. The ammount of coolant you need depends on the size of your loop. I just mix a large quantity on the side and save the rest. That way you know the concentration is the same if you need to add some down the road.

andyl33t · Nov 8, 2006

but isnt 3/8" jusr 6/16"? I mean what size bottle should I get? Also should I go with the DCC Ulta, DDC+ or D5 Vario?

Thanks

Maviryk · Nov 8, 2006

You can use 3/8" if you so choose, but it will be more restrictive than 1/2" or 7/16" tubing. I like 1/2" because I don't have to spend extra on T-lines and caps.

Providone Iodine is a growth inhibitor. Keeps algae from growing in your warm water loop. As for the amount of Xerex... I just fill up the cap(of the bottle) and pour that in.

I haven't seen the MSDS for VW rad fluid. ctrl_alt_del_'s loop is probably very sterile. I had growth in three months using just Water Wetter and distilled.

andyl33t · Nov 8, 2006

Wouldn't it be better to have a 3/2 water/zerex mixture for the whole loop then? I can only get 3/8" ID Tygon R3603 Tubing , so should i go with the 1/2" then?

Thakns

Maviryk · Nov 8, 2006

It really doesn't matter what the ratio of H20/Anticorrosive is for your coolant unless you decide to use aluminum in your loop. In all honesty, I doubt much more than a capful or two of xerex is needed to keep down the copper from oxidizing with the oxygen in the coolant.

1/2" Tygon or 7/16" Masterclear would be a slightly better choice than 3/8" Tygon.

andyl33t · Nov 8, 2006

I can get the masterclear, so should i get the 1/2" tygon, or 7/16" masterclear?
Thanks

Maviryk · Nov 8, 2006

Well, personal preference. If you're going to use all commercial stuff use the 7/16". If you're going to use some DIY stuff use the 1/2" Tygon.

There is no performance difference between 1/2" Tygon and 7/16". Personal preference. If you use 7/16" you wouldn't have to use clamps.. but it will be a PITA to remove the tubing from the barbs later on. Most people have to cut it off.

I could never use 7/16" Masterclear because it was already hard enough trying to stretch 1/2" Tygon over barbs which are already 1/2" ID. That and I change tubing and components every 3 months or so.

Voodoo Rufus · Nov 8, 2006

andyl33t · Nov 8, 2006

I think i will go with the 1/2" tygon to save the hassle. What type of clamps would you recommend? Also with the zerex, will it colour thw water? because i want to add some dye. Would FluidXP be good?

Thanks

Need help on a watercooling setup

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