Need some Criticism for this WC Setup. Diagram Included!! :)

CPU Water Block : White Water - LE (1/2") $34.99
GPU Water Block : Acetal MAZE4 (1/2") $44.95
Pump : Danger Den DD12V-D5 Pump (1/2") $74.95
Radiator : Black Ice Xtreme II Radiator (1/2") $42.95
Tubing : 7ft. Tygon (1/2") $15
Reservoir : Swiftech MCRES-MICRO (1/2") $20
Fittings : (1)Y-fitting $1.75
Additives : Blue PC-ICE Coolant $19.95
Fans : (2)Thermaltake Thunderblade 120MM 78CFM @ 21dB $19
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Total : $270.x

About the additives, im not sure as to which one is the best but everything else I think is pretty good. Everyones opinion is taken into consideration, Thanks a bunch for any help . I will be purchasing a 4600+ 939 this is why im switching over. Also, where should I place my radiator, people with a broad amount of experience, if you could judge a very good spot then that'd be great. This is all going inside of a Antec Super Lan Boy case, so space is sort of mild to begin with but I can work it out :].

-Raheel

Where is your res in your diagram?

And it looks like you might have room for this rad http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCR320-QP-K-Triple-120mm-Radiator-pr-3320.html

I didnt add the res to the diagram because I dont know where I should put it so I can fill / bleed the system efficiently.

As far as coolant goes I would not bother with that PC ice stuff or any other expensive PC coolant for that matter. If you want the blue color in your tubes order a bottle of Pentosin blue VW coolant. You get like 1.5 liters of non diluted antifreeze for like $10 + shipping. Just buy a gallon of distilled water and use 90% distilled water 10% pentosin or 80% distilled 20% pentosin if you want a darker blue color. This way you will still have plenty of coolant to reuse in the future if and when you drain/refill your loop.

I posted a couple of links to some places that sold it in another thread on the first page asking about blue coolant. There's also pink/red if you like it. Then pick up a $4 bottle of povidone iodine from Wal-Mart and put a few drops in to prevent algea from growing and you're good to go. If you want some UV glow you can use Rit Whitener and Brightener. I crushed it up and disolved it in hot distilled water to add it to my loop. It works great and looks great.

As for the rez/t-line, you want to have it before the pump to make priming and filling easier.

Your diagram is sorta how I have my loop setup, except my radiator is at the front of the case and the pump is turned around the other way.

Ok, I will be purchasing that rad, no point in getting a smaller rad when it'll be on top of the case regardless :].

PC Ice also has algae growth blockers along with corrosion prevention. I just picked blue because what the heck its 3 things that are good in one. Does pentosin have any of these features?
-Raheel

P.S. Thanks for all the help so far ;]

INFO

anwar1337 said:

I didnt add the res to the diagram because I dont know where I should put it so I can fill / bleed the system efficiently.

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Those thunderblades are loud. I would get a quieter fan.

Put the resevoir at the highest point in the loop and it will bleed very easily.

jph1589 said:

Those thunderblades are loud. I would get a quieter fan.

Put the resevoir at the highest point in the loop and it will bleed very easily.

Click to expand...

I agree with the fans.
On res placement, the rad is on top of the case. So it would be difficult to place the res at the highest point of the loop. Wich would be ideal. What is the most common res placement in this case?

As stated before,

A T-Line would be easy to put in for this loop. The bleeding might take a little longer, but will bleed.



Your loop is very similar to my last setup... oh water...

bryan d

How would I bleed it? Turn the T line like downwards towards the floor and let it drain out?

jph1589 said:

Those thunderblades are loud. I would get a quieter fan.

Put the resevoir at the highest point in the loop and it will bleed very easily.

Click to expand...

I dont know... the one that I have on my XP-120 isnt that loud, infact Its really silent compared to past fans I've gotten.

anwar1337 said:

How would I bleed it? Turn the T line like downwards towards the floor and let it drain out?

Click to expand...

When I had to drain mine, that is pretty much what I did. When enough water came out, I would remove the hose from the RAD first and then drain that on its own, then moved on to the other parts. When I changed my liquid I would take those aquarium brushes to my hoses to get grime off, if it had any. Usually my tubes were spotless but better safe than sorry I suppose.

Bryan D

On a top rad mount, it is a LOT easier to fill and get most of the air out of the system initially if you have a bleed screw in the radiator like the Thermochills have. Otherwise it is going to take a lot of tilting back and forth when trying to fill. I personally would drill out a hole and tap a thread for a small #6-32 screw and get a brass screw and rubber washer for it. Provided you have a drill, it would cost you like $5 to do.

Were in the rad would you install a bleed screw voigts?

Add some iodine to your coolant and you won't have to worry about algae and you'll save money.

anwar1337 said:

PC Ice also has algae growth blockers along with corrosion prevention. I just picked blue because what the heck its 3 things that are good in one. Does pentosin have any of these features?
-Raheel

P.S. Thanks for all the help so far ;]

Click to expand...

Pentosin = corrosion prevention and coloring
Povidone Iodine = growth inhibitor

With those you could make gallons of coolant that is equal to or better than PC Ice using distilled water and you'd still spend less money than you would on PC Ice.

voigts said:

On a top rad mount, it is a LOT easier to fill and get most of the air out of the system initially if you have a bleed screw in the radiator like the Thermochills have. Otherwise it is going to take a lot of tilting back and forth when trying to fill.

Click to expand...

Strangely enough I didn't have any issues with that at all. The system bled right out and everything was nice and clear w/in an hour of running - it really surprised me. Got some help to hold the T-line and tilted the case around (even upside down) expecting to find bubbles but there weren't any ...

greenmaji said:

Were in the rad would you install a bleed screw voigts?

Click to expand...

It looks to me to have plenty of room in the end tank where the barbs are. A small #6-32 screw is all it takes.

QuietIce said:

Strangely enough I didn't have any issues with that at all. The system bled right out and everything was nice and clear w/in an hour of running - it really surprised me. Got some help to hold the T-line and tilted the case around (even upside down) expecting to find bubbles but there weren't any ...

Click to expand...

Obviously it is not a necessity, but having a way to bleed air at the top of the system is going to make things easier. That is why Thermochill includes one in their rads.