ol' man
11-27-01, 09:58 PM
Today I made my H2O block from two pieces of copper and some ratshack silver bearing solder that melts at a very low temp but still high enough for this I guess.
What I did was take two plates of copper and with one of them I routed my channels through them. The other one I sanded down flat as also the channled one two. I then got some of that paste solder that rat shack sells and it says you can melt it with a match or lighter. Well I decided to try it on my stove. It appeared that my stove was indeed just the right temp and then some to melt the solder. The solder paste already has the flux in it and when heated on the stove it made a perfect joint and when cooled it was perfect with no holes or bubbles through it. Now all I have to do is attach the aluminum plate on top and away I will go. Should know soon enough how it will work with my coolant chiller. I got the idea from Bladerunner here
http://discussions.hardwarecentral.com/Forum11/HTML/017053.html
It worked very well and in about 5 minutes time I had the plates soldered together.
Now I have to drill and tap 4 holes through the block in the bottom plate which will hold down the aluminum top plate which is very thick cause this is going to cryo cooled I am going to need a very steady middle post to hole the whole thing down on the cpu. I will then use a hex nut and tighten going upwith the nut and it will pull the whole thing together Below the nut will be some insulation so the block does not sweat all over the tualatin goodness that has graced my presence. I will also need a small amount of insulation under the mobo too and under the chip and maybe on the mobo around it.
You can kinda see how good my seal is. When I had this on the electric stove it hit a certain point and then the top copper plate was floating on the liquid solder. It was at this point that I pressed down slightly on the top copper plate to insure no bubbles or holes were present in the solder and then I shut the stove down. After 5 min I put the block under the faucet with pliers and walla. Now I just have to as I said above drill and tap the block so I can attach the aluminum cover and put the barbed fittings in it.
Here is the end result of soldering the two plates together.
What I did was take two plates of copper and with one of them I routed my channels through them. The other one I sanded down flat as also the channled one two. I then got some of that paste solder that rat shack sells and it says you can melt it with a match or lighter. Well I decided to try it on my stove. It appeared that my stove was indeed just the right temp and then some to melt the solder. The solder paste already has the flux in it and when heated on the stove it made a perfect joint and when cooled it was perfect with no holes or bubbles through it. Now all I have to do is attach the aluminum plate on top and away I will go. Should know soon enough how it will work with my coolant chiller. I got the idea from Bladerunner here
http://discussions.hardwarecentral.com/Forum11/HTML/017053.html
It worked very well and in about 5 minutes time I had the plates soldered together.
Now I have to drill and tap 4 holes through the block in the bottom plate which will hold down the aluminum top plate which is very thick cause this is going to cryo cooled I am going to need a very steady middle post to hole the whole thing down on the cpu. I will then use a hex nut and tighten going upwith the nut and it will pull the whole thing together Below the nut will be some insulation so the block does not sweat all over the tualatin goodness that has graced my presence. I will also need a small amount of insulation under the mobo too and under the chip and maybe on the mobo around it.
You can kinda see how good my seal is. When I had this on the electric stove it hit a certain point and then the top copper plate was floating on the liquid solder. It was at this point that I pressed down slightly on the top copper plate to insure no bubbles or holes were present in the solder and then I shut the stove down. After 5 min I put the block under the faucet with pliers and walla. Now I just have to as I said above drill and tap the block so I can attach the aluminum cover and put the barbed fittings in it.
Here is the end result of soldering the two plates together.