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Recommed me a block for an Athlon XP please!

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ziggo0

Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Yeah...now that I got a semi decent rig...compared to what I had...I can't stay on air for to long :). I know this chip can boot 2.6ghz under cold air, which isn't to hard, and I see setups all over with WC'ed AXPs but I can't find them all of a sudden when i want to WC it! I'm trying to stay cost effective, but if its going to severely reelect temps, eh...probably not then :)
 
The DTek White Water is an excellent block and is socket A native. Better yet, you can use it on new machines with the addition of the USMA and the basic Socket A block costs $20. Throw in a Via Aqua 1800, the proper 1/2" fittings, some tubing (like masterklear from MCMaster.com), hose clamps, nick nacks, and a heatercore/fan setup and you'll have a nice setup that should cost ya well under $100. From there you can spend money wherever you'd like. Bigger pumps, more expensive blocks, etc w/e.

Personally I believe that you should invest in good cooling before making a move to a new platform unless you're running a system that really needs to go to pasture.
 
I currently have a MAZE4 GPU and a BIP II sitting around with 1/2 Barbs so they will probaly get put to use. I just need a waterblock for the CPU and a pump and im back on water :)
 
ziggo0 said:
Yeah...now that I got a semi decent rig...compared to what I had...I can't stay on air for to long :). I know this chip can boot 2.6ghz under cold air, which isn't to hard, and I see setups all over with WC'ed AXPs but I can't find them all of a sudden when i want to WC it! I'm trying to stay cost effective, but if its going to severely reelect temps, eh...probably not then :)

I used to have a KIXJB. But no matter what, at least with the Vcore limit that my Asus A7V8X-X (NOT in the sig) had, I couldn't even reach the desktop at 2.5 ghz, I would get a BSOD before the Windows boot process is complete or just crash.

But it was at least 3 hour Prime95 stable at 2.4 ghz (160x15.0) with the Vcore at 1.85V. 2.37 was the sweet spot on that KIXJB. (2370 mhz) (158x15.0) That only required 1.75V. But, warning, the KIXJB I used to have has a tendency to get hot! At least according the the thermal diode reading.
These may be one of the hottest running processors, seriously!

That's probably why you require major cooling just for it to boot.

That was my serious PC upgrade of August, 2004. I was trying to get the best out of my A7V8X-X, which don't have a PCI and AGP lock, thus I'm lucky to get 175 mhz for the FSB. In fact, the FSB usually was technically underclocked, because of the high 15.0 multiplier.

I was trying to push it harder back in 2005, but ended up getting rid of it, because I gotten myself a Barton 3000+, which probably gets me to the same clocks, if not higher. The Barton 3000+ I have, which is AQZFA, is the one I have that has the best chance of seeing a stable 2.5 ghz. But I never tried to run it any faster than 2.4 ghz, because I seem to not have good enough cooling for even 2.43 ghz. When I was there or around there, Prime95 silently crashed on me.
 
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I think a 2Xbarb block is better for the AXP processors. The 3Xbarbs can create mounting problems on a CPU without IHS. I used a DD TDX on my XP2500M(2700 at 2V.) with very good temps.
 
fhanderson said:
I think a 2Xbarb block is better for the AXP processors. The 3Xbarbs can create mounting problems on a CPU without IHS. I used a DD TDX on my XP2500M(2700 at 2V.) with very good temps.

I'm also trying to remain cost effective. If I remember right, the TDX is up there in price, or am I wrong? Also, how do you put 2 barbs on the AquaVia 1800 if its submersible :confused:

Edit: $52, which isn't to bad. I can get an Apogee for less though and I know it performs GREAT on A64 but not to sure about AXP
 
fhanderson said:
I think a 2Xbarb block is better for the AXP processors. The 3Xbarbs can create mounting problems on a CPU without IHS. I used a DD TDX on my XP2500M(2700 at 2V.) with very good temps.

AXPs are ridculously hard to break you won't have a problem with a 3 barb waterblock. Also the tensions in a 3 barb block are usually better distrubuted anyway.

I would say go with the WW, for $25 its the best bang for your buck out there.
 
ziggo0 said:
To be more specific, it's the White Water LE? http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=177

Edit: I'm about to search this, but how do you make that pump work work? Like...its submersible...

I was talking about the normal white water without the USMA. You can pick one up later and it'll save you some money to buy it separately anyways. Just be sure to use an anticorrosive additive since the $20 version has aluminum in it.

The Via Aqua 1800 is submersible but it comes with two barbs as well. They're 3/4" NPT fittings and the stock barbs have a 3/4" OD. You'll want to replace these with 3/4" NPT fittings with 1/2" OD barbs.

Also remember to get a Y tubing splitter to combine the two outputs.
 
The WW LE is a buck cheaper over at cooltechnica, though you'll have to see if it's still cheaper after shipping. (link here)

Also I think spending 10 bucks more for the copper topped LE is a worthwhile investment, instead of getting the anodized aluminum top with the standard WW, but it's up to you. You can always just get the standard one and add additives.
 
Kil4Thril said:
If you can find a Swiftech 6002, you'd be quite happy with it.
Yea, even if you get a 6000, the performance is really good for the price. And the installation is quite easy since it uses clips instead of brackets and screws for socket-A.
 
My vote is for the WW too. I've been running mine since it was released.. 4yrs ago? :) it works great with a GPU block inline as well.

I've run my "Tbred B" @ 2.5ghz since day one with the WW, it's been at that speed since then. A tank of a system, it's done me proud!

I'd get the WWLE with the copper top for corrosion resistance.

I'm finally going to retire mine with a Storm for my C2D build.

Good-Luck!
 
I'm running an Apogee on the 2100+ w/no problems and getting ready to assemble another w/a 2500+. As long as you have the mounting holes you're good to go ...
 
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