- Joined
- Jun 2, 2006
- Location
- Umatilla, Oregon
As the title states....
My case is narrow this is what i did...
My case is narrow this is what i did...
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Do 90's really hurt flow that bad?? **pic
- Thread starter (Clanger)(DOA)
- Start date
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- Mar 14, 2005
- Location
- Niagara, ON
did the same thing with my friends setup
doesnt seem to effect anything (has a D4 pump)
doesnt seem to effect anything (has a D4 pump)
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
- Location
- Asteroid B-612
If you have no alternatives, then you have no alternatives. It's ideal to not have them in your loop, but their effect on performance is very difficult to actually measure. Just make sure you pick the least restrictive elbows you can.
- Joined
- May 1, 2006
- Location
- Virginia, USA
You want the flow to be as smooth as possible. A 90d fitting is equivalent to additional footage of tubing on the loop in restriction.
A female to male adapter to 90d is a turbulence nightmare. People talk about how bad DD "Perfect Fit" fittings are because of the flat lip where the tubing meets the barb so you can imagine what is going on inside your fittings.
A female to male adapter to 90d is a turbulence nightmare. People talk about how bad DD "Perfect Fit" fittings are because of the flat lip where the tubing meets the barb so you can imagine what is going on inside your fittings.
OP
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- Jun 2, 2006
- Location
- Umatilla, Oregon
- Thread Starter
- #5
yeah your right Sigfever, i need a redesign.But this will have to hold me over till i get a new case.
QuietIce
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An interesting little program I discovered that might help answer your question ...
http://www.pressure-drop.com/
http://www.pressure-drop.com/
QuietIce
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- May 7, 2006
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- Anywhere but there
If you're running a decent pump I wouldn't worry about it. A D5/MCP655 or equivalent will plow right through all that ...(Clanger)(DOA) said:
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2004
- Location
- Los Angeles
I would see if you can go to 45's, those will basically reduce pressure drop by a fair amount, in addition to making not much more of a difference on tubing location.
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OP
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2006
- Location
- Umatilla, Oregon
- Thread Starter
- #10
I got a D4,
I am trying to figure out what you have those male/female elbows screwed into.
Elbows like that are quite restrictive. Here is what I would do. I would use a short piece of tubing on each barb of the WW going to a 1/2" copper long sweep elbow (mcmaster.com #5520K184) to your tubing. Long sweep elbows offer very little restriction and yet would get the job done. I have used them when needed and saw no difference between them and using tubing. I solder a short piece of copper tubing into the female end to make it easier to get the tubing onto that end.
I have one in my rig now.
Elbows like that are quite restrictive. Here is what I would do. I would use a short piece of tubing on each barb of the WW going to a 1/2" copper long sweep elbow (mcmaster.com #5520K184) to your tubing. Long sweep elbows offer very little restriction and yet would get the job done. I have used them when needed and saw no difference between them and using tubing. I solder a short piece of copper tubing into the female end to make it easier to get the tubing onto that end.
I have one in my rig now.
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2005
You could use 3/4 inch ells.(Clanger)(DOA) said:
Or try making some of these:
See post #5 in http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?p=4601320#post4601320
Take a 2' piece of 1/2" or 3/4" CPVC (the thinwall,beige stuff), fill it with dry sand, press caps onto the ends, and heat it over a stove. Bend it around something. You can make any radius you want.
OP
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- Jun 2, 2006
- Location
- Umatilla, Oregon
- Thread Starter
- #14
those sweeping elbows are what i originally had in mind... I walked around lowes for 2 hours looking for anything that resembaled them... no luck. Since the comments in this thread i have taken the 90's out and ordered more tubing, ( all the tubing i had left was braided PVCvoigts said:
) THose long sweep elbows will work perfect... This is what im working with now till i get the more managable tubing,
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2005
It looks like the fiber reinforced (home depot or lowes) tubing is your problem to me. thiner walled tubing would be more flexable.
I think I would have put the res in the top bays and turned the rad 90degrees to make the barbs and tank face downward.
And are you running a top rad as well?
I think I would have put the res in the top bays and turned the rad 90degrees to make the barbs and tank face downward.
And are you running a top rad as well?
OP
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- Jun 2, 2006
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- Umatilla, Oregon
- Thread Starter
- #16
well i was using tygon for the tight areas before.
QuietIce
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Tygon is great stuf - not only bends easy but it's kinda' sticky, too. I know a lot of guys like the 7/16" Tygon but I've grown fond of 1/2" ID - 5/8" OD with Smartcoils for the tough spots. You can make a pretty sharp bend w/thin wall and Smartcoils.
I hunted up Cathar's original thread when he was discussing 1/2" v 7/16" and tracked down his link to what he used for some of his calculations. The site isn't quite the same address (the one he linked is gone) but I bet it's the same program ...billb said:
I got my long sweep elbows from mcmaster at the link I posted. You probably won't find them locally as they are not the usual plumbing fittings.
That braided tubing is useless in our systems. I have been using Masterkleer of late and although its not as flexible as Tygon, it sure it a lot cheaper.
I also would have placed the res at the top of the case as air naturally rises.
That braided tubing is useless in our systems. I have been using Masterkleer of late and although its not as flexible as Tygon, it sure it a lot cheaper.
I also would have placed the res at the top of the case as air naturally rises.
OP
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- Umatilla, Oregon
- Thread Starter
- #19
voigts said:
cant place the res there, it would block the 1/2 the BIXII thats above it....
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- Gilbert, Arizona
I win.
