Apogee mounting

Hello everyone

Ok, I recently ordered the Apex H20-220 Ultra cooling kit and just finished installing it. Everything seems to be working in proper order (no leaks, proper flow, raidiator working) but my temps don't seem to that much different from my previous air cooling solution. Thing is, when I mounted the CPU block I didn't have the stock s939 motherboard mounting plate that was supposed to be used according to the manual; I had a s939 aftermarket Zalman backplate from my CNPS 7700 CPU cooler. Instead of mounting it like I was supposed to, I had to use the Zalman backplate. The block seemed to have good contact on the CPU so I'm wondering if this has any effect on the temps.

Thanks.

Both load and idle temps are the same as with air?
I don't think it's a mounting problem. How's the airflow through the radiator? Did you use some uber quiet fans (which don't work perfectly with all radiators)?
There's no kinks or spots in the tubing where it's a little squished in a curve?
*if the waterblock is firmly in place and cannot be wiggled easily, then the Zalman plate is doing fine.

Finally, if you use Arctic Silver thermal goo, it can take up to a week for it to settle, sometimes by as much as 5C depending on how thick you piled it on.

Don't bet the farm on temp sensors either. They're as accurate as lawn darts. Changing to water cooling can throw it off even more by depleting the air circulation around the socket area.
The best program I've seen to date is the program "coretemp" which reads the cpu diode directly, but still hasn't been proven in my eyes as definitively correct.
Consider temp programs as a best guess.

Rule of thumb: If it's stable, it's working.
to the Forums!

Diggrr said:

Both load and idle temps are the same as with air?
I don't think it's a mounting problem. How's the airflow through the radiator? Did you use some uber quiet fans (which don't work perfectly with all radiators)?
There's no kinks or spots in the tubing where it's a little squished in a curve?

Finally, if you use Arctic Silver thermal goo, it can take up to a week for it to settle, sometimes by as much as 5C depending on how thick you piled it on.

Don't bet the farm on temp sensors either. They're as accurate as lawn darts. Changing to water cooling can throw it off even more by depleting the air circulation around the socket area.
The best program I've seen to date is the program "coretemp" which reads the cpu diode directly, but still hasn't been proven in my eyes as definitively correct.
Consider temp programs as a best guess.

Rule of thumb: If it's stable, it's working.
to the Forums!

Click to expand...

Well my idle and load temps are lower than they were with air cooling, but not by much, maybe a few degrees. Airflow on the raidiator is good, and im using the fans it came with. I'm even running them on high.

There are no kinks in the tubing, I made sure of that. I also did use AS5 thermal paste.

As far as the temp sensor goes, I've been using Coretemp as you mentioned. As far as the coolant goes, I'm using PC Ice. I know it cools maybe 1-2 degrees warmer than water, but I don't think thats it. I'm starting to wonder if it indeed is the mounting on the CPU block.

And thanks for the welcome!

So what are your coretemp temps (before and after, in Celcius)?

Diggrr said:

So what are your coretemp temps (before and after, in Celcius)?

Click to expand...

Coretemp was used to determine all of these temperatures.
Prime 95 was used to get load temps.

Air cooling
IDLE 40-42
LOAD 46-47

Current
IDLE 40-41 (with raidiator fans on low)
IDLE 37-38 (with raidiator fans on high)
LOAD - 49-50 (with raidiator fans on low)
LOAD - 47-48 (with raidiator fans on high)

Something is definitely not right...

Agreed.
Can you turn the fans down and listen to the rad?...I know it sounds stupid, but you can often hear the sound of running water when there's a lot of air trapped in your radiator. It can and will prohibit water flow through it.
As long as the t-line/res is capped safely, you can tip the case and tap the rad to release it.

sounds like bad block contact to me.

i suggest you remount it and screw it down tighter, pay special attention to the smear of the AS5 when you remove block, if it hasnt covered the whole heatspreader or there are patches where the as5 hasnt spread thats a good idicator of bad block contact.