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$100 water cooling for C2D?

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Shelnutt2

Shelnutt2

Overclockers Team Content Editor
​
Joined
Jun 17, 2005
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Can it be done? A $100 water cooling loop just for my C2D, and possibly my NB? Although I've been told to stick with aircooling on the nb.

I remember back when smithfields were out someone build a water cooling loop that ran real well for $100. So Now for C2D I'm wondering for $100 can it be done again? Something thats as good/better than a Tuniq Tower but is still at/under $100?
 
I would suggest shopping the classifieds some but you could go for all new parts and have.

Via Aqua 1300 $20 (not a bad pump but some people have reliabity issues with it, mines been fine)
$25 Dtek WW.
$40 Swiftech MCR-220.
$15 worth of tubing, clamps, and t-line and fans.
 
Ok, I've just been give the opportunity to buy the following.

Black Ice Pro Single 120mm rad (chipped but not leaking)
Hydor Seltz L30 pump (article and comparison)
Swiftech Apogee
$50 shipped for all of them.

I'm about to grab the deal. Its a good deal right?
 
Shelnutt2 said:
Ok, I've just been give the opportunity to buy the following.

Black Ice Pro Single 120mm rad (chipped but not leaking)
Hydor Seltz L30 pump (article and comparison)
Swiftech Apogee
$50 shipped for all of them.

I'm about to grab the deal. Its a good deal right?
Click to expand...


you bet it is. just the black ice isn't the best for quiet rigs. the pump should last, but it'll die sooner than my d5.


the apogee is 40-50 bucks by itself.
 
Black Ice Pro is a good rad and the Swifty waterblock is nice. Those two items alone are worth $50 in good used condition. Make sure the socket 775 hardware is included with the block.
 
batboy said:
Black Ice Pro is a good rad and the Swifty waterblock is nice. Those two items alone are worth $50 in good used condition. Make sure the socket 775 hardware is included with the block.
Click to expand...

The 775 mounting screws are not included, are these special screws? Or can I just go buy some screws? Or do I need to buy all new mounting hardware?

Also as for tubing, what do you recommend? Also T-line or reservoir?
 
darkcow said:
you bet it is. just the black ice isn't the best for quiet rigs.
Click to expand...
If he was talking about a BI Extreme you would be right.
And yes I am aware that Thermochill PA rads are the best for low cfm/performance,
but given their price, most folks will go with what they can afford.
 
Shelnutt2 said:
The 775 mounting screws are not included, are these special screws? Or can I just go buy some screws? Or do I need to buy all new mounting hardware?

Also as for tubing, what do you recommend? Also T-line or reservoir?
Click to expand...

You can purchase standard 6-32 bolts, nuts, and washers. If you don't have them already, try to find some springs from mcmaster.com that have a 15-20LB load.


I'd go T Line personally. Try to find one that has two 1/2" connectors and a 3/4" connector for the fill line so that your T Line has more capacity.
 
Am I blind or it seems that no one has T-lines? I remember FrozenCPU had t-lines under there tubing accessories...but I'm went through FrozenCPU, Jab-tech, Danger Den. I don't see any T-lines at all!

I know FrozenCPU over charges for stuff but I was just looking.

Also what size tubing do I need? I am confused about whether its 3/8" ID or 3/8" OD?

I'm looking to spend no more than $25 on tubing and all.


plusview1000insidewy8.jpg

Here is a gutted view of my case. I'm wondering where I can put the rad. I'm thinking maybe run tubing out through the top 5" bay and have the rad just sitting on top of my case? I don't see where it would fit without heavy mods to my case.


edit: found some t-lines
http://www.jab-tech.com/3-8T-Line-for-3-8-ID-Tubing-Clear-pr-3518.html
 
Last edited:
you can pick up a t-line at any hardware store, but if you can grab one for under $2 shipped, that's a decent deal. I've been using a t-line for almost a year and I have no complaints; it's cheap, takes up less space, and gives me an excuse to mod my case for the fillport. The only downside is the bleeding of the loop; with a reservoir, it will bleed VERY fast, but with a t-line, it took me a couple days and some tilting of the case to get it bubble free. Do I care? No, the two days was worth it in the long run.

T-lines aren't the prettiest thing in the world, but unless you're entering your computer in a beauty contest, it really doesn't matter. Just make sure your clamps are very tight, the only leaks I've ever had occurred at the t-line.
 
oh, and as for the radiator, you can stick it on the bottom or top of the case (you'd have to cut a hole for the fan/airflow), or take out the bottom hard drive cage and that purple plastic thing and make it fit there. Don't do any major modding, as you'll want to upgrade the size of your radiator in the future, and it's always nice to have as many open possibilities as you can.
 
natewildes said:
oh, and as for the radiator, you can stick it on the bottom or top of the case (you'd have to cut a hole for the fan/airflow), or take out the bottom hard drive cage and that purple plastic thing and make it fit there. Don't do any major modding, as you'll want to upgrade the size of your radiator in the future, and it's always nice to have as many open possibilities as you can.
Click to expand...

The only problem is down there, there is only a hole for a 80mm fan. So eve fi I removed the HD cage I'd still end up having to cut a bigger hole?

I just measured and the rad + fan should fit nice if I take the top three bays for 5" drives.
 
You can get Masterkleer 7/16 tubing from mcmaster.com - 20 ft 12 dollars shipped! Check out the many other things they have there while you are looking. Its a great store, everything I order there I get the next day :D
 
TheSonOfX51 said:
You can get Masterkleer 7/16 tubing from mcmaster.com - 20 ft 12 dollars shipped! Check out the many other things they have there while you are looking. Its a great store, everything I order there I get the next day :D
Click to expand...

So I need 7/16 ID? or is that OD?
 
What size tubing you need depends on what size barbs are on the water block, radiator, and pump. They will probably be either 3/8" or 1/2" barbs (and hopefully all the same size). The 7/16" tube is a very tight fit on 1/2" barbs, so you won't have leaks. Plus it is easier to bend since it's slightly smaller diameter compared to 1/2" hose. If your barbs are a mix of 3/8" and 1/2", let us know, there are options to deal with that too.

As for reservoir or T-line, that's your choice. There are pros and cons to both. The T-line is cheaper and more DIY. Once you know the know what size tubing you need, you can pick up a PVC Tee fitting with hose barbs from a hardware store or home improvement store (Lowes/Home Depot). The worm gear hose clamps can be found at auto parts stores.
 
I was told that everything works together, so everything should be the same size.

He's going to get back to me tomorrow on the ID of everything.

Do you have a link to the McMaster piping they use? There are so many choices, whats best? Well whats most cost efficient?

Also what kind of clamps? Metal Worm driven ones?

Thanks for all the help guys. I'd be lost without you.

Does McMaster take paypal? If not then they are kind of out.
 
metal-worm is the way to go.


7/16 masterkleer is what i got, so im going to suggest it.
 
natewildes said:
The only downside is the bleeding of the loop; with a reservoir, it will bleed VERY fast, but with a t-line, it took me a couple days and some tilting of the case to get it bubble free. Do I care? No, the two days was worth it in the long run.
Click to expand...
That's very odd that it takes so long. I've only built a few loops (all T-lines) but I've never had one take more than an hour to crystal clear ...
 
Last edited:
It depends a lot on the fittings you use for the T Line and the pump you use. Some Ts are better at allowing the bubbles to leave the loop than others. The ones I use are pretty good but I have to play with them sometimes to get all the bubbles out.
 
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