Turned my SK-6 into a water block!

[Default]

Since i didn't wan't to be bothered with the hassle of engeneering my own waterblock clamp, i decided to use a copper base that was already meant to use a standard socket clamp, the SK-6!now in order to get those damn fins off i had to take a hack saw to them first to limit thier heat transfer:D that was the hardes thing to do in my life! there was no turning back at this point though. Once i got the fins down to about 1 MM in hight, i took the soldering torch to it and was easily able to take the stumps off. Now i had the perfect copper plate for my needs *DROOL*. in order to still make use of the clamp i had to devise a way of turning it into a waterblock without useing the centre. So i used copper flex tubing! a few bends here and some solder there and i had myself the perfect waterblock. This water block has 4 passes in one cycle so it can definatly handle the heat!:cool:

here's what i got with the block.

1.6GHz @ 1.75 V : 39C
1.6GHz @ 1.77 V : 40C
1.6GHz @ 1.80 V : 41C
1.6GHz @ 1.83 V : 43C
1.6GHz @ 1.85 V : 44C

why are the temps so high? My water isn't exactly cold, infact it's a little above room tempeature. I'm still trying to find a better evaporation technique. One last thing with these temps, currently i can only get 1.4@1.6GHz @ 1.80 V 100% stable. Higher voltages being unstable is most likely caused by the high water temp.

[The Overclocker]

why are your temps high?

you just runied a perfectly good heatsink,

the base is thick which is good for air but not water
not much surface area
why didn't you leave the fins on?
as i understand it it is just an open area, no way for water to flow
and
you the clip is in the hottest part of the water block

[Default]

Originally posted by the overclocker
why are your temps high?

you just runied a perfectly good heatsink,

the base is thick which is good for air but not water
not much surface area
why didn't you leave the fins on?
as i understand it it is just an open area, no way for water to flow
and
you the clip is in the hottest part of the water block

the heatsink wasn't doing me any good anyways so why settle for higher temps when you can have lower. And like i said the temps are so high becuase the water temp is high(luke warm to the tuch.)

[UnseenMenace]

Is there any chance of a pic of your handywork please

[Default]

nope no digital, but here is a handy drawn pic to give you the main idea.

[Szech]

They did something similar to this at work to cool some of the power supplies for the big machinery. They twisted copper tubing into spirals, and soldered it to copper plates. They hooked the tubes up to the chilled water supply and let it fly.

One thing I don't like about this, compared to traditional water blocks, is that you are adding another junction the heat has to travel through. The heat has to go to the copper plate, through the solder, then to the copper tubing, where it transfers to the water. With a normal water block, it goes to the water block, to the water.

The second is that the junction is relatively small. The contact area between the tubing and the copper plate is not much at all. The solder adds a bit, but not a lot.

Anyway, I don't want to discount your work or anything, but I think there are more efficient waterblock designs.

[Default]

Originally posted by Szech
They did something similar to this at work to cool some of the power supplies for the big machinery. They twisted copper tubing into spirals, and soldered it to copper plates. They hooked the tubes up to the chilled water supply and let it fly.

One thing I don't like about this, compared to traditional water blocks, is that you are adding another junction the heat has to travel through. The heat has to go to the copper plate, through the solder, then to the copper tubing, where it transfers to the water. With a normal water block, it goes to the water block, to the water.

The second is that the junction is relatively small. The contact area between the tubing and the copper plate is not much at all. The solder adds a bit, but not a lot.

Anyway, I don't want to discount your work or anything, but I think there are more efficient waterblock designs.


true, but this was just a quick fix. and believe me i tried to get the tubes as flat as possible on thier bases. It really doesn't matter too much anyways becuase i plan to put the whole unit into a fridge. so no matter what the surface area the fact is that that block is going to be ice! I just micht be able to hit my mark 2GHz:D