Advice on new system

Water Cooling Purpose: Lower temps for overclocking headroom, cool factor. Noise is not really an issue.
Budget: High, but I am considering performance vs. price. I don't want to squeeze out an extra .5C for $200.

Planned computer components;
ThermalTake Armor case
EVGA 680i Motherboard
Core 2 Duo (6700 or 6600)
Corsair Dominator Memory
8800GTX video card (Probably a BFG with the DangerDen waterblock preinstalled; I would prefer an EVGA but finding 8800GTX waterblocks for sale seperately right now is impossible)
OCZ gaming extreme PSU
Other useless junk unrelated to cooling

Here are the parts I am considering for the cooling solution:
Danger Den TDX for the CPU
Danger Den 680i Chipset block for the NB
Danger Den full coverage 8800GTX waterblock (preinstalled on card if I get the BFG)
ThermalTake AquaBay M3 reservoir
ThermalTake AquaBay M1 level indicator/flow meter
Some variation of Black Ice radiator (either 2x120 or 3x120)
Pump

Here are some of my questions:
Is the BFG with the preinstalled DangerDen block a good product? It is about $50 more than buying an EVGA and installing a block myself, but I cannot find the blocks for sale seperately (everyone is out of stock). I don't want to wait months to purchase this, in fact, I would prefer to purchase within a week.

I would prefer a 3x120mm radiator. For this reason, I would like to run the radiator external to the computer, mounting it or resting it on my desk somewhere. I have had trouble cleaning internal radiators in the past, so this seems like an easy way to access the radiator for cleaning, and will prevent me from having to mod the case. Decent idea? What would be a good solution for routing power to the fans?

The pump I would like to use is the MCP655. It uses 1/2" fittings, but the ThermalTake reservoir and flow meter use 3/8" or smaller. The DangerDen blocks can use either 1/2" or 3/8" inch. What is the best solution to this? I would prefer to use these parts if possible, but if there is a superior alternative, I am all ears.

Having used A/C pumps in the past, what is the most effective way to route 12v DC to the pump while the system is off for filling and leak testing?

Any help would be appreciated!

I apologize for the shameless bump, but I REALLY need some advice. Hell, just confirmation that it is a good setup would be nice, or someone to tell me it is crap.

welcome to the forum. You components look great. Just curious, why did you choose the thermaltake equipment? It does look cool, but you may want to stick with other components if you are going with 1/2" tubing. If you are going 3/8 (actually I prefer this) then go for it. The MCP655 is a great pump. It was a bit loud for me, so I went with an ehiem. If you get a black ice, just don't get the xflow, since the performance isn't as good. Go with the 6600 if you are just using water and I would pick a different PSU. If you need to get 12v to the loop while your system is on then you can just route a molex wire externally. If you want something clean then use one of these http://www.svc.com/ok302.html.

If quiet is not your game then just buy a heatercore and put a couple of big fans on it. You are running it externally, so this is certainly an option. If you want something that looks more finished then go for one of the ones you listed. Personally, if it's gonna be that visible I would get something that looks nice and not obtrusive

Good luck and I hope those "opinions" help. People have different priorities when running water cooling.... performance, cost, acoustics, minimal setup time, minimal maintainance etc can all be priorities. You have to pick which ones are important to you and build the best system. I use a lot of components no on else here uses, because it fits MY priorities.

Thanks for the feedback! I think I will just go for the 3/8" tubing because the 1/2" is pushing unwieldy. The reason for the two TT components is twofold: 1) I want to use the TT Armor case if I can because I already have one and I love it, and they fit very well with the look of it, and 2) because the problems I have had in the past dealt with insufficient flow and low fluid, with no indicators. These components fix these problems visually, add a cool look, and make for an easy system.

I suppose my only remaining question is, how do I run the pump prior to starting the computer? Other kits I used involved a combined pump, reservoir, radiator system and plugged in externally. I have not used a small seperate DC pump before.

As for the feel of the system, I am not concerned about noise. I am just looking for a nice intermediate setup between using a kit and a full on modification. This is why I am avoiding modifying heater cores and drilling holes in my case (why I will stick to 3/8" because that is the max size of the routing holes and use an external radiator). Everything involved in this system is something I have done in the past except for a few steps that I asked about, which makes it a nice "step-up" without getting too deep.

Also, what power supply do you suggest? I have used the OCZ in the past and it has worked well. The problem is that many people report difficulties in installing certain PSUs in the Armor (they even complained about the OCZ even though I was able to get it in perfectly fine). Honestly, I would prefer a modular design, but I worry because they generally have less outputs with shorter wires.

I no longer use OCZ psu since one died on me. I've been burned once, and don't see the point in trying again. I now use a corsair psu that is basically a seasonic high efficiency psu in disguise. It is modulular and puts out 620w. The wires are pretty long with different sizes. I think the model number is hx620w. Check out this forum guide for more info.

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=458204&highlight=jump+power+supply

If you want to run it prior to starting the computer to test for leaks then you can jump the power supply. If you are afraid of jumping the wrong wires then you can buy this. Just jump it and plug in the power cable.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5...24-pin_Power_Supply_Jump_Start_Connector.html