water cooling setup

[Mooker]

Hey, I think i have figured out all the components for my water cooling setup.


Tubing: 3/8" silicone tubing
Waterblock: Maze 2 with 3/8 fittings
Radiator: Leviathan Radiator(heater core) with 3/8 fittings
Pump: Eheim 1250
Fans: 4 Deltas 120mm 150cfm(its gonna be loud) 2 pushing air through rad and 2 pulling are through rad.




pump -> radiator -> water block -> pump


Wut you guys think. Your suggestions wanted.

Thanks

[SteenkyBastage]

sounds good

i might suggest (especially with the delta 120's) adding a rheostat to each of those bad boys. i use one 120mm fan on my DD cube and it keeps my temps real low, and i 99.999% of the time have that fan turned down all the way via rheostat.

good luck!

and BTW: dont forget that your in-socket probe will most likely give you false temps due to the lack of airflow over the socket (waterblock instead of fan on the heatsink). so dont freak out!

[Mooker]

Where can I get this rheostat that you speak of?

[Wicked Klown]

The Delta draws to much to hook up a Rheostat to it. I posted about quieting down my Delta 80mm 68c.f.m. and was told that I would not find one strong enough due to how many watts it draws.

[SteenkyBastage]

a rheostat is basically a device that has a knob on it that will alow you to turn down the voltage going to the device.

you can pick up 3watt rheostats at radio shack for a few bucks each.

there is no case where a rheostat wont work caus of wattage.

if you have a 15watt fan and add a 3w rheostat it will be able to dial from 12w to 15w. the less wattage the fan gets, the slower it will spin.

i use my 3w rheostats on my 8w 120mm's and i also use one 3w rheo on a pair of 4w 80mm fans. by turning the rheostats all the way down, i still get adequate airflow with hardly any noise.

one thing to note, however. when the rheostats are turned all the way down (as in makes the fan speed turn down), they tend to get hot. what i do is hang my rheostats in the path of the air coming in or out of the fan so that the airflow cools the rheostat off.

hope this helps

[SteenkyBastage]

what the person probably meant that told you you wouldn't find a powerful enough rheo, was that you probably wouldn't find one that could completely stop the fan (ex. to stop a 15w fan, you'd need a 15w rheostat). but unless you wanna cook your cpu, you only want to slow down the fan, not stop it.

[Colin]

Looks like top line gear. You might consider using fan shrowds to keep the fans about 2" or more from the radiators. To control the speed of your fans an LM317T voltage regulator (http://casemods.pointofnoreturn.org/vregtut/tutorial-full.html) is a more eloquent solution. You can see my version of an LM317T bay bus here. (http://forums.overclockers.ws/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1569)

[ButcherUK]

Originally posted by SteenkyBastage

if you have a 15watt fan and add a 3w rheostat it will be able to dial from 12w to 15w. the less wattage the fan gets, the slower it will spin.

That's not at all true. The wattage on a rheostat is maximum power it can dissipate, not the power it will consume. The rating that's important on a rheostat is the resistance. The amount you can dial is related to the resistance of the rheostat relative to the fan. A 15W, 12V fan has a resistance of 9.6 ohms (R=V²/P). If you use a 5 ohm rheostat with that, you can dial up to 5 ohms resistance in. with 5 ohms extra in the voltage across the fan will be 7.9V, giving a reduction in speed, this is a fan power of 6.5W. The power dissipated in the rheostat is 3.362 watts. If it's a 3W rhoeostat you're right on the line. Note if it's a 15W, 5 ohm rheostat you still won't be able to get less than 6.5W in the fan - the power rating of the rheostat is so you don't burn it out, not how much power it will consume if turned one way vs the other.

[ButcherUK]

Originally posted by Colin
Looks like top line gear. You might consider using fan shrowds to keep the fans about 2" or more from the radiators. To control the speed of your fans an LM317T voltage regulator (http://casemods.pointofnoreturn.org/vregtut/tutorial-full.html) is a more eloquent solution. You can see my version of an LM317T bay bus here. (http://forums.overclockers.ws/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1569)
If you want top notch control a PWM controller is better as it allows the fan to spin at much slower speeds without being overcome by backpressure so easily, also you don't have slow start issues with PWM. The catch is they are MUCH more complicated. If you want I can dig you up a schematic.

[webmedic]

Yes this whould be good. PLease post the schematics.

[Voodoo Rufus]

Pulse Width Modulation controllers are good if you want to keep the heat down on high powered components, and are overkill for a fan setup. They do work well though, and you can customize the temp range for the fans.

I had a problem with mine. It made my Panaflo 120mm L1A tick, and the higher I cranked the frequency on the board, it became a buzz that was luder than the fan itself. It works well on some fans, but not as well on others.