DDC-2 quit last night

[IYIENACE]

Here's my Core Temp log.


CPUID: 0x6F6
Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 (Conroe)
Revision: B2
CPU Speed CPU#0 (Core#0) CPU#0 (Core#1)
3153.97 31 32
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 32
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 32
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 31 32
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 31 32
3153.97 31 32
3153.97 31 32
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 31 32
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 32
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 32
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 33 34
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 32
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 32
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 32
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 32
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 32
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 31 33
3153.97 32 33
3153.97 34 35
3153.97 35 36
3153.97 37 37
3153.97 39 39
3153.97 39 40
3153.97 40 41
3153.97 41 42
3153.97 42 42
3153.97 42 43
3153.97 43 44
3153.97 44 44
3153.97 45 45
3153.97 45 46
3153.97 46 47
3153.97 47 47
3153.97 47 48
3153.97 48 48
3153.97 50 50
3153.97 50 50
3153.97 51 51
3153.97 52 52
3153.97 52 52
3153.97 53 52
3153.97 53 53
3153.97 54 53
3153.97 54 54
3153.97 55 54
3153.97 55 55
3153.97 56 55
3153.97 57 56
3153.97 57 56
3153.97 58 57
3153.97 58 57
3153.97 58 57
3153.97 59 58
3153.97 59 58
3153.97 59 58
3153.97 60 59
3153.97 60 59
3153.97 60 60
3153.97 62 60
3153.97 62 60
3153.97 63 62
3153.97 63 62
3153.97 63 62
3153.97 64 63
3153.97 64 63
3153.97 64 64
3153.97 65 63
3153.97 65 64
3153.97 66 64
3153.97 66 64
3153.97 66 65
3153.97 67 65
3153.97 67 65
3153.97 67 66
3153.97 67 66
3153.97 68 66
3153.97 68 67
3153.97 68 67
3153.97 69 67
3153.97 68 67
3153.97 69 67
3153.97 69 68
3153.97 69 68
3153.97 70 68
3153.97 70 68
3153.97 70 69
3153.97 71 69
3153.97 71 69
3153.97 71 69
3153.97 71 70
3153.97 72 70
3153.97 72 70
3153.97 72 70
3153.97 72 70
3153.97 74 71
3153.97 74 71
3153.97 74 71
3153.97 74 72
3153.97 75 72
3153.97 75 72
3153.97 75 72
3153.97 75 72
3153.97 75 72
3153.97 76 72
3153.97 76 74
3153.97 76 74
3153.97 76 74
3153.97 76 74
3153.97 76 75
3153.97 77 75
3153.97 77 75
3153.97 77 75
3153.97 77 75
3153.97 77 75
3153.97 77 76
3153.97 78 76
3153.97 78 76
3153.97 78 76
3153.97 78 77
3153.97 78 77
3153.97 79 77
3153.97 79 77
3153.97 79 77
3153.97 79 78
3153.97 79 78
3153.97 80 78
3153.97 80 78
3153.97 80 78
3153.97 80 78
3153.97 80 79
3153.97 81 79
3153.97 81 79
3153.97 81 79
3153.97 81 79
3153.97 82 79
3153.97 82 80
3153.97 82 80
3153.97 82 80
3153.97 82 80
3153.97 83 80
3153.97 83 81
3153.97 83 81
3153.97 85 81
3153.97 85 81
3153.97 125 82
3153.97 125 82
3153.97 124 83
3153.97 124 83
3153.97 124 83
3153.97 124 85
3153.97 124 85
3153.97 124 126
3153.97 124 126
3153.97 124 125
3153.97 123 125
3153.97 123 125
3153.97 123 125
3153.97 123 125
3153.97 123 124
3153.97 123 124
3153.97 122 124
3153.97 122 124
3153.97 122 124
3153.97 122 124
3153.97 122 124
3153.97 121 123
3153.97 121 123
3153.97 121 123
3153.97 121 123
3153.97 121 123
3153.97 121 123
3153.97 121 122
3153.97 120 122
3153.97 120 122
3153.97 120 122
3153.97 120 122
3153.97 120 121
3153.97 119 121
3153.97 119 121
3153.97 119 121
3153.97 119 121
3153.97 119 121
3153.97 119 120
3153.97 119 120
3153.97 119 120
3153.97 118 120
3153.97 118 120
3153.97 118 120
3153.97 118 119
3153.97 118 119
3153.97 118 119
3153.97 118 119
3153.97 118 119
3153.97 117 118
3153.97 117 118
3153.97 117 118
3153.97 117 118
3153.97 117 118
3153.97 117 118
3153.97 117 118
3153.97 116 117
3153.97 116 117
3153.97 116 117
3153.97 116 117
3153.97 116 117
3153.97 116 117
3153.97 116 117
3153.97 115 116
3153.97 115 116
3153.97 115 116
3153.97 115 116
3153.97 115 116
3153.97 115 115
3153.97 114 115
3153.97 114 115
3153.97 114 115
3153.97 114 115
3153.97 114 115
3153.97 114 115
3153.97 113 115
3153.97 113 115
3153.97 113 115
3153.97 113 114
3153.97 113 114
3153.97 113 114
3153.97 113 114
3153.97 112 114
3153.97 112 114
3153.97 112 114
3153.97 112 113
3153.97 112 113
3153.97 112 113
3153.97 112 113
3153.97 112 113
3153.97 100 113
3153.97 100 112
3153.97 100 112
3153.97 100 112
3153.97 100 112
3153.97 100 112
3153.97 100 112
3153.97 100 112

My PC still runs with no apparent damage.... am I just really lucky or how much heat can these C2D take?

[Immortal_Hero]

OMG that sucker got hot!

[Ducatti]

125C!! With throttling and thermal protection I'm surprised it didn't shut the computer off...

[IYIENACE]

125C!! With throttling and thermal protection I'm surprised it didn't shut the computer off...

Oh it did! lol. I was watching a movie and pop off it went. Throttling is disabled in BIOS though.

[voigts]

I am curious to know how old your pump is and whether or not you are using the stock top or an aftermarket top.

[Maviryk]

Check his sig, it's Petra's Top.

[voigts]

Check his sig, it's Petra's Top.

I didn't even pay attention to his sig as that shade of blue is hard to read on my laptop screen that I am using at the moment.

I would still like to know how old it is though.

[IYIENACE]

voigts I really can't remember when I bought it but I'm guessing about 7-8 months ago. It's still working, I am using it at the moment but I already ordered another because I am so paranoid about it quitting that I have to glance at the res constantly t o make sure the water is flowing.
My loop is fairly new and the water is very clear with 0 air. I am using Petrosin -sp w/ distilled water.

[wombat778]

I am so paranoid about it quitting that I have to glance at the res constantly t o make sure the water is flowing.

You might consider doing what I am doing as a backup. I have MBM w/ coretemp plugin ( http://www.thetechrepository.com/showthread.php?t=74 ) monitoring the temps on each core. Then I have alarms set such that if the temp on any core exceeds 65c, then it executes a little freeware app that shuts down the PC instantly ( http://www.xp-smoker.com/freeware.html ).

This gives me a lot more peace of mind.

[Graystar]

Hmmm...another dead modded pump.

On the Cooling-Masters website I read about the DDC pumps and failures. Laing says that they never have failures of the DDC pumps used by Apple.

Interesting...

[Diggrr]

Yeah, I'd be forgetting about using the mod-top right about now too....especially after taking an $80 hit without warranty.
Makes me wonder how close they're machining the insides to match the Liang original.

[Maviryk]

Are we sure these are real DDCs? And not the fake ones...?

[Graystar]

Yeah, I'd be forgetting about using the mod-top right about now too....especially after taking an $80 hit without warranty.
Makes me wonder how close they're machining the insides to match the Liang original.
I've already asked that. Petra says that it's just a circle. The shape of the Laing volute is complex enough to be a pain to duplicate...not to mention possible patent problems.

The shape of the volute is important to the generation of head, and all these aftermarket tops have less head than the stock top. But volute shape is also important to maintaining equal lateral forces on the impeller. I remember the old days where idiots would kink a tube and cut flow to see what would happen, and they would crack the ceramic shafts of their pumps. That's because at zero flow the lateral force on the impeller is huge. There have been issues with impellers touching the sides of housings, and I think that might be part of the cause.

The more I hear, the more I think, "stay away from aftermarket tops."

[Maviryk]

... IIRC the aftermarket tops enables the pump to produce MORE head than the stock one does... why would you want less head in a highly restrictive water loop...

[Immortal_Hero]

... IIRC the aftermarket tops enables the pump to produce MORE head than the stock one does... why would you want less head in a highly restrictive water loop...
AFAIK most of the 1/2" tops for the DDC decrease pressure (head) but increase flow.

[Graystar]

... IIRC the aftermarket tops enables the pump to produce MORE head than the stock one does... why would you want less head in a highly restrictive water loop...
As Immortal said, the tops decrease head but increase free flow. On very restrictive loops a stock DDC will have equal and possibly even more flow than the aftermarket top because of the greater head.

Regardless, the answer to you question is so that my pump doesn't die.

[voigts]

I've already asked that. Petra says that it's just a circle. The shape of the Laing volute is complex enough to be a pain to duplicate...not to mention possible patent problems.

The shape of the volute is important to the generation of head, and all these aftermarket tops have less head than the stock top. But volute shape is also important to maintaining equal lateral forces on the impeller. I remember the old days where idiots would kink a tube and cut flow to see what would happen, and they would crack the ceramic shafts of their pumps. That's because at zero flow the lateral force on the impeller is huge. There have been issues with impellers touching the sides of housings, and I think that might be part of the cause.

The more I hear, the more I think, "stay away from aftermarket tops."

If Petras top made the chamber round, then he did not duplicate the chamber area of the stock top. When I made mine, I measured and found that the chamber area has a slight spiral to it. So when I made mine last May, I used a rotary tool after drilling a circle to slightly ream out the chamber area into a slight spiral to match the original top. I also paid great attention to getting my top to have the same clearance between the impeller and the top of the chamber. I found that this distance is vital to keeping the impeller level in the chamber. If there is too large of a gap above the impeller, the impeller can spin at an angle and hit the sides.

It might be that Petra has a design flaw with his top. I made mine last May and so far so good (http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=456511&page=2). I am currently using the revision 4 that I made.

[Graystar]

I just have no idea why the threaded version of the DDC isn't sold here. That would take are of the 1/2" barb issue and we can forget about these tops.

[damarble]

I just have no idea why the threaded version of the DDC isn't sold here. That would take are of the 1/2" barb issue and we can forget about these tops.

I didn't even know there was a threaded version. That would solve a lot of problems.

[SolidxSnake]

There is no threaded version, at least from Laing. The only threaded DC Pumps they have are the D4 and D5.

[Graystar]

There is no threaded version, at least from Laing. The only threaded DC Pumps they have are the D4 and D5.
It continues to boggle my mind how people will speak as if they know what they're talking about without doing any research to confirm what they're saying.

From the DDC PDF found at the Laing Germany website...

http://home.nyc.rr.com/graystar/watercooling/ddcthreaded.jpg

[SiGfever]

When these pumps first came out there was a thread where Marci commented that he thought that the top inlet should not be enlarged. I think that he was on to something. I wonder if any of the after market top manufactures ran their designs by any engineers to validate the inlet size increase?

[voigts]

This really is beginning to make me wonder if there isn't an issue with petras top. The Alphacool tops are used throughout Europe and seem to be very common there. If there was some huge issue with them, I'm sure that would have been known by now. It would be a nice option if the 1/4" male threaded top was readily available. I hadn't seen that top before. It took me a while of Googling to find that pdf file.

[Graystar]

It would be a nice option if the 1/4" male threaded top was readily available.
Yeah, you know...how expensive could just the top be? I think I'll suggest to DD that they get some.

[voigts]

I searched for that part number for quite a while and only found one company online that has it listed in the US. I might give them a call Monday to see if they have just the tops available or if not, what pump version they sell them with and whether or not they sell to individuals or are just a high volume distributor.

[SiGfever]

This really is beginning to make me wonder if there isn't an issue with petras top. The Alphacool tops are used throughout Europe and seem to be very common there. If there was some huge issue with them, I'm sure that would have been known by now. It would be a nice option if the 1/4" male threaded top was readily available. I hadn't seen that top before. It took me a while of Googling to find that pdf file.
I use the Alphacool top and my DDC-2TPMP recently died, it started stalling until you tapped on it. I sent it back to DD and they replaced the pump. My old one was an 03/06 manufacture and the new one is a 01/07.

I know mine was not overheating as I had heat sinks on the bottom of it with a 120mm Yate blowing on them. Every time that I checked it was only barely warm.

[SolidxSnake]

It continues to boggle my mind how people will speak as if they know what they're talking about without doing any research to confirm what they're saying.

From the DDC PDF found at the Laing Germany website...

http://home.nyc.rr.com/graystar/watercooling/ddcthreaded.jpg


I went to the Laing website and couldn't find it there. It was the US website.

[Graystar]

I went to the Laing website and couldn't find it there. It was the US website.
That’s okay, just ask about. Say something like, “I couldn’t find any info on that and I’d like to check out the specs...do you have a link?” But don’t tell me I’m wrong. That annoys the crap outta me and then I take on a snippy tone, for which I apologize.

[SolidxSnake]

I'll keep that in mind.

That being said, where the hell do we find those? Seeing as voigts only found one dealer, I don't see those becoming an item in abundance to us WC enthusiasts.

[Graystar]

where the hell do we find those?
I'm banking on voigts (go voigts! :thup: )

But really...considering that no one has demonstrated that flow beyond 1 GPM is truly better, I'm think I'm gonna use 3/8" tubing and not worry about it. You can easily get flow beyond 1 GPM with 3/8" tubing, and it's easier to route. That's good enough for me!

[voigts]

Oh cmon now Graystar, you are the one that I have adamantly see argue for the importance of using 1/2" tubing! ;)

I like my 1/2" myself. My case is big so routing isn't an issue anyway. Then again in that small computer I have seen you post pics of I can see why you would use 3/8".

I am actually considering hardlining my system when I take it apart in the near future to upgrade to a Conroe setup. I found a 5/8" pipe bender from Harbor Freight for only $5 which should work great for 1/2" copper. I'm probably going to give it a try and see how it goes.

[Maviryk]

I'm banking on voigts (go voigts! :thup: )

But really...considering that no one has demonstrated that flow beyond 1 GPM is truly better, I'm think I'm gonna use 3/8" tubing and not worry about it. You can easily get flow beyond 1 GPM with 3/8" tubing, and it's easier to route. That's good enough for me!

Lol... Europeans have been saying this all along...

[Graystar]

Oh cmon now Graystar, you are the one that I have adamantly see argue for the importance of using 1/2" tubing! ;)
Yeah you're right. Stick with 1/2"...can't possibly hurt. What do Europeans know anyways! :p

[voigts]

So far no luck on finding the DDC 1 or 2 with the 1/4" npt threads on the top. I called the one US distributor, and they don't have it available on their parts list. I have a call in to another and nothing there either.

[[O-CuK]Marci]

I've seen plenty of failures of DDC's using Alphacool tops... it's nothing unique to a particular modded top... tends to be a case of ANY modded top reduces the reliability of the pump long-term.

That said, I haven't personally had a failure with any of the DDC's I use with modded top, and have been using since the day Alphacool released the aforementioned top.

[nikhsub1]

I have been running my 2 DDC's with the alpha tops for 8 months now or so, no issues what so ever.

[Otter]

Marci']I've seen plenty of failures of DDC's using Alphacool tops... it's nothing unique to a particular modded top... tends to be a case of ANY modded top reduces the reliability of the pump long-term.
I would think an aftermarket top that preserves the orginal geometry of the impeller chamber wouldn't hurt longevity much. Do any of the current tops come close? I wonder what the failure rate is like for DDC's with Robotech's DIY mod.

[Zx2Slow]

I have had a DDC2 with a radiical top for going on 10 months with no problems.

[Diggrr]

I can understand why an aftermarket maker couldn't do this (copywrites, patents, lawsuits etc), but If I were to use one of these pumps (which I don't) I'd probably make a silicone mold of the original and cast my own top with with acrylic casting resin...it sure beats trying to program the complicated geometry.

Just a thought.

[voigts]

I can understand why an aftermarket maker couldn't do this (copywrites, patents, lawsuits etc), but If I were to use one of these pumps (which I don't) I'd probably make a silicone mold of the original and cast my own top with with acrylic casting resin...it sure beats trying to program the complicated geometry.

Just a thought.

I had looked into doing that exact thing. It looked to me that it was going to be kind of costly to do, and also I could never get a good answer as to how resin compares to cast acrylic.

Also, if you look at the original top vs what you have to do to make it work 1/2" inlet and outlet barbs, it complicates the idea of casting as the exit channel has to widen out to accommodate the 1/2" barbs, whereas with the stock top the exit is a straight tube.

I got a call back from one distributor listed on Laing's website. They want $124 for a DDC with the NPT fittings. Forget that!

[Graystar]

Ouch! Well, I've seen them listed for 180 bucks on other sites.

[Otter]

I had looked into doing that exact thing. It looked to me that it was going to be kind of costly to do,
I've started poking at this idea again too. I think I'll try it eventually, but yeah, if all you want to do is make one DDC top, it would be a bit pricey.

and also I could never get a good answer as to how resin compares to cast acrylic.
What kind of comparison are you looking for?

Also, if you look at the original top vs what you have to do to make it work 1/2" inlet and outlet barbs, it complicates the idea of casting as the exit channel has to widen out to accommodate the 1/2" barbs, whereas with the stock top the exit is a straight tube.
Obviously it means you have to modify your mold, but I don't think it would be overly complicated. I've been thinking the outlet channel mold should be a separate piece, and the little seam in Laing's top at the exit from the chamber makes me think that they probably do it that way. If you pull the mold out the same way the water goes, it shouldn't matter that the bore gets wider. But if you want to do it the other way, you could put an insert down the center of the bore that you could remove, leaving just a floppy sleeve to pull out through the chamber. It might be a good idea to use a rigid insert in the outlet channel anyway, just to to avoid droop.

[SolidxSnake]

You don't even need to change the outlet to 1/2", you can leave it 3/8" and have a 1/2" barb slip over it. It will kill some flow, but there will be less of a pressure drop. That was how I got my DDC. The top barb ripped off, so I had to redo the inlet, but the outlet was just the flare and stem (everything but the threads) of a 1/2" barb slipped over the stock 3/8" barb and epoxied on.

[Otter]

You don't even need to change the outlet to 1/2", you can leave it 3/8" and have a 1/2" barb slip over it.
True. You could even leave the inlet at 3/8" if you wanted. The main performance boost comes from removing the inlet elbow. But as long as your at it... :burn:

[orionlion82]

Psst!

-you can fix the pump! (http://www.oc-rev.com/forums//showthread.php?t=828)

[voigts]

You don't even need to change the outlet to 1/2", you can leave it 3/8" and have a 1/2" barb slip over it. It will kill some flow, but there will be less of a pressure drop. That was how I got my DDC. The top barb ripped off, so I had to redo the inlet, but the outlet was just the flare and stem (everything but the threads) of a 1/2" barb slipped over the stock 3/8" barb and epoxied on.

You can do that, but once you epoxy the 1/2" over the 3/8", your warranty is history.

Otter: The cost issue that I found in the idea of casting out of resin is that is would require a pressure chamber in order not to have air bubbles in the resin. And the cost of the pressure chamber was like $250 if I remember right.

[Otter]

Ah. I was going to ghetto that. Something like an old steel mixing bowl or flower pot with a valve on it sitting upside-down on flat surface with a rubber mat for a gasket, maybe, plus a vacuum pump from ebay. If I replace my fridge before I get around to casting DDC tops, I'll probably use the motor from it. I once used a fridge motor I borrowed from a friend of a friend to pump down my car's AC, and it worked great.

[SiGfever]

Ah. I was going to ghetto that. Something like an old steel mixing bowl or flower pot with a valve on it sitting upside-down on flat surface with a rubber mat for a gasket, maybe, plus a vacuum pump from ebay. If I replace my fridge before I get around to casting DDC tops, I'll probably use the motor from it. I once used a fridge motor I borrowed from a friend of a friend to pump down my car's AC, and it worked great.
Careful, if you live in the US and someone gets it on video you will be looking at a $BIGMONEY fine if you are not CFC certified. :eek:

Plus you can make that person a quick $10K. :beer:

[SolidxSnake]

You can do that, but once you epoxy the 1/2" over the 3/8", your warranty is history.

Otter: The cost issue that I found in the idea of casting out of resin is that is would require a pressure chamber in order not to have air bubbles in the resin. And the cost of the pressure chamber was like $250 if I remember right.


Well, if you're modding the original top (making the inlet 1/2" or not on an elbow), then you're voiding the warranty anyway.

Also, if you look at the original top vs what you have to do to make it work 1/2" inlet and outlet barbs, it complicates the idea of casting as the exit channel has to widen out to accommodate the 1/2" barbs, whereas with the stock top the exit is a straight tube.

I was just saying you don't need to, that post of yours was what my post was aimed at, not at the original top. I was just using mine as an example :)

[voigts]

I would just rather add on a top with 1/2" outlets than mod the stock top so that I could return it if need be. But the idea of epoxying 1/2" fittings over the 3/8" ones isn't a bad idea.

I just worked today on two more DDC tops as I am about to tear into my setup and upgrade. I'm switching pumps back down to a DDC, so I figured I would go ahead and make a new top while I am at it. I wanted to make a top that is as close to the original as possible in the chamber design. My current top that I made is OK, but the new ones I just made have really turned out sweet. I've got the epoxy curing right now. I'll post a thread on it here shortly.

I measured and actually scanned the original top and printed out a template so that I could mimic the original top's impeller chamber very closely. I figure that if I have the chamber just like the original, it should minimize any issues.

[Otter]

Careful, if you live in the US and someone gets it on video you will be looking at a $BIGMONEY fine if you are not CFC certified. :eek:

Plus you can make that person a quick $10K. :beer:
Back then, there was no such thing as CFC certification and it was perfectly legal to work on your own AC in the driveway.

Voigts, I'm looking forward to seeing your new top. Did you cut out the template so that you could actually put it into the chamber?

[voigts]

I made the template and printed it out onto cardstock and cut it out so that I could literally trace it out onto the acrylic and then after drilling and reaming it out with a rotary tool, put the template into the hole to verify that the shape is correct.

[Otter]

Cool. Scanning the original top is a great idea.

[Maviryk]

WTF m8. My MCP355 w/Petra's top just died...

Boot up the computer and noticed the reservoir was a lot calmer than usual...

WTF...

[maxfly]

I use the Alphacool top and my DDC-2TPMP recently died, it started stalling until you tapped on it. I sent it back to DD and they replaced the pump. My old one was an 03/06 manufacture and the new one is a 01/07.

I know mine was not overheating as I had heat sinks on the bottom of it with a 120mm Yate blowing on them. Every time that I checked it was only barely warm.

my ddc-1 w/alphacool top is doing the exact same thing.it wont start up until i tap on it(thank god it didnt cook my cpu).bought it in september at ppc.dont know the manufacture date off hand.ill repost later tonight when i can look at it.i also made sure it wasnt getting hot.put silicon gel pads under each corner and had a yateloon blowing over it.mine was never even warm to the touch as well...
good thing i was getting ready to run dual pumps for redundancy.so just picked up a pair of used ddc-1s so id have a back up if one died.
hank at ppc was great about the rma for it despite it being well beyond the 30 day return period.ive just got to cover shipping to alphacool(joy)and hes going to take care of the rest.

[Maviryk]

Wow, if all else fails, whack it with a hammer.

I whacked my pump with a hammer and it started right up. I guess it just needed a little tough love.

[maxfly]

Wow, if all else fails, whack it with a hammer.

I whacked my pump with a hammer and it started right up. I guess it just needed a little tough love.
lol tbh i do have to knock it pretty hard to get the impeller moving.otherwise it just half turns stops,half turns stops.i just hope the next pump is problem free...

[Maviryk]

I would just rather add on a top with 1/2" outlets than mod the stock top so that I could return it if need be. But the idea of epoxying 1/2" fittings over the 3/8" ones isn't a bad idea.

I just worked today on two more DDC tops as I am about to tear into my setup and upgrade. I'm switching pumps back down to a DDC, so I figured I would go ahead and make a new top while I am at it. I wanted to make a top that is as close to the original as possible in the chamber design. My current top that I made is OK, but the new ones I just made have really turned out sweet. I've got the epoxy curing right now. I'll post a thread on it here shortly.

I measured and actually scanned the original top and printed out a template so that I could mimic the original top's impeller chamber very closely. I figure that if I have the chamber just like the original, it should minimize any issues.

Do you have a 3d Digitizer?

I've got access to an Atos II white light scanner if you want 3d comparisons.

[ahbroody]

Not to hijack but, do you guys think this pump is more or less reliable than a danger den mag 2. The Mag2 would be easier for me to use with less modifications for my plan.

Ahbroody

[voigts]

Do you have a 3d Digitizer?

I've got access to an Atos II white light scanner if you want 3d comparisons.

That would be sweet to get 3d scans of the top to scale.

[Maviryk]

I've got accuracy of +/- .001 inches. Was planning on scanning petra's top to the original this weekend.

[voigts]

I've got accuracy of +/- .001 inches. Was planning on scanning petra's top to the original this weekend.

I really want to see that especially given the frequent posts about impellers sticking with Petras top. I have made my own top that I modeled after the original and haven't had a bit of trouble. I have noticed in making mine that if the top isn't made right, it isn't hard for the impeller to stick. I have wondered if there is an issue with the way he has made his top, or if it is just coincidence.

[Maviryk]

Voigts check your PM box man.

[IYIENACE]

Not to hijack but, do you guys think this pump is more or less reliable than a danger den mag 2. The Mag2 would be easier for me to use with less modifications for my plan.

Ahbroody

Not really, failures are still very rare for the DDC. Now if this second one fails, I will probably have a different opinion!

[darkcow]

Not to hijack but, do you guys think this pump is more or less reliable than a danger den mag 2. The Mag2 would be easier for me to use with less modifications for my plan.

Ahbroody


I've heard plenty of stories of a bunch of mag's (if i remember correctly) being loud as heck on arrival, but if you get a good mag2 then you'll be fine, but often after you average in the price for RMA's and that stuff if you do get a bad one, might as well gotten a DDC.


but theres no question about it, a DDC is more reliable then a mag2. but then there are some amazing mag pumps, and some crappy DDC pumps.

[ahbroody]

See thats why I cant decide. In order to use the DDC I will have to mod it or use the aftermarket top. I can likely get petras which is local to me to order me the mag2 and they are real cool about if the equipment has issues you can just take it back. However they also stock the DDC and there mod top. The mag2 will require no modding and would work perfect. I guess there is good and bad in each one.

I am guessing these DDC pumps have a 1 year warranty so if you buy the aftermarket top and keep your stock top if there is a problem you can send it back??

Guess I just dont want issues from modding and it seems the jury is still out on whether this mod leads to premature pump failure.

[SolidxSnake]

See thats why I cant decide. In order to use the DDC I will have to mod it or use the aftermarket top. I can likely get petras which is local to me to order me the mag2 and they are real cool about if the equipment has issues you can just take it back. However they also stock the DDC and there mod top. The mag2 will require no modding and would work perfect. I guess there is good and bad in each one.

I am guessing these DDC pumps have a 1 year warranty so if you buy the aftermarket top and keep your stock top if there is a problem you can send it back??

Guess I just dont want issues from modding and it seems the jury is still out on whether this mod leads to premature pump failure.


From what I'm assuming (stock tops differ from aftermarkets due to the shape of the impeller chamber), modding the stock top won't do anything. If you're so paranoid, I'd prob get a used DDC and a broken DDC, and then mod one of the tops to 1/2".

[jcw122]

Temperature Shutdown helps. Most new motherboards have it...I don't understand why this happens. Did yours not have it?

[IYIENACE]

Temperature Shutdown helps. Most new motherboards have it...I don't understand why this happens. Did yours not have it?

It did shut down, eventually. :p
As suggested I'm now using "super fast shutdown" with a MM plugin. Now if it hits 50* for any reason it will shut off immediately.

I'm also adding 2 of these (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/evfanalfakit.html), 1 per pump.

[Otter]

I am guessing these DDC pumps have a 1 year warranty so if you buy the aftermarket top and keep your stock top if there is a problem you can send it back??
Yeah, you could do that. But if you're thinking going into it that there might be a problem with the aftermarket top, it's not very ethical to shift the risk to Laing or Swiftech. One general rule of overclocking is that if you're going to take the risk, you should let it be your own risk. Doing otherwise encourages companies to make it more difficult for us to abuse our hardware as we see fit.

Guess I just dont want issues from modding and it seems the jury is still out on whether this mod leads to premature pump failure.
The more threads I read about dead DDC's with Petra's top, the more I think there might really be a problem there. OTOH, I don't think I've seen even one report of a failed pump with Robotech's DIY mod. However, it's possible the problem is really with the 18W DDC, which wasn't available when the DIY mod was the only way to go, and whatever the reason the pump fails, you'll have a hard time getting a warranty replacement if you send it back with a hole drilled in the case. :bang head