Project: Humidity

[jcw122]

Project: Humidity-----Status: FINISHED!

Hey everyone,

I'm building my first watercooling loop, with a bong cooler, in the next few days. I thought I would make a fun project log out of it, since I'm very excited for it. It's also called project humidity, because it's probably going to make my room very humid, which will be one of the problems I need to deal with.

And the best part about this watercooling loop? It will cost UNDER $150, and outperform most, if not all, radiator-based high-end watercooling.

Here's what will be in it:
-Dtek Whitewater LE---Received from Dtek!
-Danger Den Maze4---Received from lilneel12, thanks!
-MasterKleer 7/16" tubing---Received from McMaster.com
-Via Aqua 1800---Received from Dr. Foster And Smith (online merchant)
-4'-5' bong cooler---BUILT! ~5'
-Distilled Water---Have 4 gal.

Via Aqua 1800-
I recieved the Via Aqua 1800 today and tested it in the sink, it was very quiet, no problems what so ever. I still need to figure out a way to hook it up with a filter, this is an open loop and I don't want anything screwing up my water. I bought the Via because it was $1 more, and had 100 more GPH than the 1300. Online it said it had 6ft. head, but the manual says it is ~7ft. head.
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/5366/mg5047qw5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Maze4 for my 9800Pro (Flashed to XT)-
A classic waterblock is good condition :D
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/573/mg5050mv5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

"Wye" attachement for bong
20' of Masterkleer-Not using all of it
3 gal. blue translucent bucket, smaller/lower profile than 5 gal, and see through to watch waterline
Lid
http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/5915/mg5055fg4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[thideras]

Project: Humidity

Hey everyone,

I'm building my first watercooling loop, with a bong cooler, in the next few days. I thought I would make a fun project log out of it, since I'm very excited for it. It's also called project humidity, because it's probably going to make my room very humid, which will be one of the problems I need to deal with.

And the best part about this watercooling loop? It will cost UNDER $150, and outperform most high-end watercooling.

Here's what will be in it:
-Dtek Whitewater LE---On the (slow) UPS truck
-Danger Den Maze4---Received from lilneel22, thanks!
-Via Aqua 1800---Received from Dr. Foster And Smith (online merchant)
-4'-5' bong cooler---still needs built, shower head still needed
-Distilled Water---Need to buy ~4-5 gal. of it still


I recieved the Via Aqua 1800 today and tested it in the sink, it was very quiet, no problems what so ever. I still need to figure out a way to hook it up with a filter, this is an open loop and I don't want anything screwing up my water.

Pics of parts coming tonight!

http://www.greatsmileys.com/image/pink%5E_%5Earial%5E_%5E3%5E_%5E2%5E_%5EDont+forget +the+PICS%21%21%5E_%5E.gif (http://www.greatsmileys.com)

[jcw122]

I knew someone would be complaining there was no immediate pics :D

I'll grab my camera and start now.

[thideras]

I knew someone would be complaining there was no immediate pics :D

I'll grab my camera and start now.

:p


Sorry, I'm impatient.

[jcw122]

:p


Sorry, I'm impatient.

It's OK, I'm lazy, posting momentarily.

[jcw122]

Pics up, that's all I have for now...except for the large 4" diameter PVC pipe for the bong, that's in my trunk.

[thideras]

Pics up, that's all I have for now...except for the large 4" diameter PVC pipe for the bong, that's in my trunk.

Good so far, keep the pics coming when your building it!

[||Console||]

Im building one this summer I cant waite to compair the diff between my BIXIII and a 5 foot bong

[natewildes]

Im building one this summer I cant waite to compair the diff between my BIXIII and a 5 foot bong

I'd be eager to see some comparisons between a radiator-based loop and a bong loop-and not just from a BIPI to a bong, I'm talking BIXIII as well :D

[jcw122]

Should be pretty good differences. Depending on the bong size, you can cool multiple computers, they have insane capacity. You can also reach below-ambient temps.

[||Console||]

Should be pretty good differences. Depending on the bong size, you can cool multiple computers, they have insane capacity. You can also reach below-ambient temps.
Thats what im hoping for =)

[4od]

I'm happy to see more people are using bongs; they really are the absolute best cooling for the money. Hope yours goes well, but remember; the shower head is probably the single most important part, so don't skimp. Go for something like this (http://cathy.likeafire.net/wp-content/showerhead.jpg) or this (http://www.brookstone.com/bs_assets/images/shop/large_300/507699_p.jpg), not this (http://image.bargainoutfitters.com/image/5/58067m3.JPG).

EDIT: With my bong, i was getting sub-30 degrees with a 3.6 c2d at 1.5vcore, and the whole thing cost less than 40 bucks

[jcw122]

I'm happy to see more people are using bongs; they really are the absolute best cooling for the money. Hope yours goes well, but remember; the shower head is probably the single most important part, so don't skimp. Go for something like this (http://cathy.likeafire.net/wp-content/showerhead.jpg) or this (http://www.brookstone.com/bs_assets/images/shop/large_300/507699_p.jpg), not this (http://image.bargainoutfitters.com/image/5/58067m3.JPG).

EDIT: With my bong, i was getting sub-30 degrees with a 3.6 c2d at 1.5vcore, and the whole thing cost less than 40 bucks

Yeah I was thinking about showerheads that will shoot straight down. I'm just not sure if I can find one that is decently priced, or is small enough to fit into my 4" diameter PVC piping.

[Diggrr]

And the best part about this watercooling loop? It will cost UNDER $150, and outperform most, if not all, radiator-based high-end watercooling.


Ahem...my cpu's at 17C right now...using a radiator.
Okay, sure it's in the basement, but we'll settle for "Most" anyway. :D

Ya know you can make your own showerhead. It's not rocket science or anything, just a tiny drill in a pin-vice will do. That's all they do, and look what they charge for it!
I made one for my home-built humidifier that I made from parts left over when I decomissioned my bong (Michigan winters can be so dry).

[Moto7451]

The pump should have some sort of filter material included. You could use that. Thankfully the 1800 is a little more forgiving when it comes to debris than it's german designed cousins, the D5 and DDC.

Of course, thats a double edged sword as the antiblockage feature has been known to malfunction and cause a buzz; but with the shower head in action I doubt you'd notice.

Another way you could keep debris out of the loop is by keeping the outlet of the bong a couple inches from the bottom of the bucket. Most of the heavy stuff (if anything like that falls in) would sink to the bottom and away from the outlet.

[jcw122]

@ Moto...The filter material looks like it's designed for larger debris, it's pretty large, not very fine filtered.

I can disable the anti-blockage feature if needed, there's a mod for the 1300 that should work the same.

Can't really raise the intake from the bong. The 1800 is a submersible pump, and that's exactly how I'm using it. I guess I could raise it off the bottom of the bucket slighly, though.

@ Diggrr...You have to at least admit that bongs (again depending on size) hav a much higher capacity and cooling ability than radiators. Bongs, as I'm sure you know, can cool multiple computers if you want. I'm not sure the conditions your radiator are in can be compared to the conditions my bong are in. I'm sure you already know this though, since you said you had a bong before. Just because their in different conditions though doesn't change their cooling abilities, the environments change their max. cooling abilities. I'm sure my 2nd floor room isn't as cold as your basement. I also do not know what kind of CPU you are running, or what voltage, or even if your watching your temperature straight from the core, which is now possible on A64's with one of The Coolest's programs.

[jcw122]

Dtek Whitewater LE arrived!
The bottom has some tarnishing...I'm guessing it can be removed with vinegar?
METAL TOP! Chrome-plated copper.
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/3010/mg5057fm0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/1979/mg5060qc5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[tyler_bishop]

I never figured out why it had 3 pipe mounts.. one way or another less or more water is going in or out lol... I'm sure it has a point..

[thideras]

I never figured out why it had 3 pipe mounts.. one way or another less or more water is going in or out lol... I'm sure it has a point..

More coverage while being symmectrical.

[dz_jad]

Dtek Whitewater LE arrived!
The bottom has some tarnishing...I'm guessing it can be removed with vinegar?

if that doesnt work, I'd personally just lap it, take only a couple minutes for me, since I've lapped so many HS's.

[jcw122]

if that doesnt work, I'd personally just lap it, take only a couple minutes for me, since I've lapped so many HS's.

I don't have any sand paper, and I don't really want to try that on a brand new HS.

[natewildes]

Vinegar should work fine, there's no need for lapping :). As I'm sure you know, just be sure to rinse it with distilled water so the yucky stuff doesn't come back ;)

[jcw122]

Vinegar should work fine, there's no need for lapping :). As I'm sure you know, just be sure to rinse it with distilled water so the yucky stuff doesn't come back ;)

Good idea, I'll have plenty of the distilled :D

[pik4chu]

Ive always liked the bong setups because people just seem to get so creative with how they go about it. Anxious to see how this one turns out.

I'm happy to see more people are using bongs; they really are the absolute best cooling for the money. Hope yours goes well, but remember; the shower head is probably the single most important part, so don't skimp. Go for something like this (http://cathy.likeafire.net/wp-content/showerhead.jpg) or this (http://www.brookstone.com/bs_assets/images/shop/large_300/507699_p.jpg), not this (http://image.bargainoutfitters.com/image/5/58067m3.JPG).

EDIT: With my bong, i was getting sub-30 degrees with a 3.6 c2d at 1.5vcore, and the whole thing cost less than 40 bucks

LOL! the one you listed for "not this" is nearly identical to whats in my shower, yay for apartments :)

[4od]

LOL! the one you listed for "not this" is nearly identical to whats in my shower, yay for apartments :)

Me too actually, i personally hate the fancy kind for real showering, but for bongs they can easily mean 4 or 5 degrees, so its usually worth the 10 or so dollars more they cost.

[dz_jad]

you could always just throw the pump on a piece of gladware tupperware to keep it off the bottom a bit....but then you run into problems quicker when the water level starts to go down....hmmmhmm hmmm hmm.....maybe:
Splice a line off of the pump, and use a fish-tank filter, just a really small 5 gallon one that runs through charcol and cotton? Is that feasible?

[jcw122]

Well I might run out to get the shower head today, and I also realized I got the wrong item for the tower part of my bong. I got normal PVC when I forgot that I wanted to go find clear acrylic, I think that would look pretty sweet being able to see all the water run down. Google for "uberbong" and you'll see what I mean.

[Moto7451]

@ Moto...The filter material looks like it's designed for larger debris, it's pretty large, not very fine filtered.

I can disable the anti-blockage feature if needed, there's a mod for the 1300 that should work the same.

Can't really raise the intake from the bong. The 1800 is a submersible pump, and that's exactly how I'm using it. I guess I could raise it off the bottom of the bucket slighly, though.


Thats interesting, my 1800 came with a thin mesh sort of filter material. Pretty interesting. I never had the problem with buzzing but I'd imagine if you did get any debris you would end up with problems down the road. Also thats exactly how I figured you could raise the intake, though another way to do it would be with a small length of tubing mounted to the bucket.

[jcw122]

Thats interesting, my 1800 came with a thin mesh sort of filter material. Pretty interesting. I never had the problem with buzzing but I'd imagine if you did get any debris you would end up with problems down the road. Also thats exactly how I figured you could raise the intake, though another way to do it would be with a small length of tubing mounted to the bucket.

Yeah it's a mesh material, but it doesn't seem like it would filter small particles very well at all.

[dz_jad]

dude. way bit of overkill on that uberbong. Holy freaking cow...I could keep my GPU folding @ ambient with all of that cooling power. The heat load that system can hold has to be awesome...and he's only got his CPU on it (From what I can see).

[jcw122]

dude. way bit of overkill on that uberbong. Holy freaking cow...I could keep my GPU folding @ ambient with all of that cooling power. The heat load that system can hold has to be awesome...and he's only got his CPU on it (From what I can see).

I bet you could keep many many computers cooled with that bong...the capacity is probably ridiculous. Heck a 7' bong could cool multiple computers.

[jcw122]

Bong Finished!

The design is a bit different than most:

http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/7687/mg5061fq2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


Added a cut to the bottom of the tube, in order to let water into the bucket/res.

http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/9439/mg5062eo4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

More Pics:

http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/6633/mg5064wg9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/3564/mg5067ep0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Some of my cuts were crappy, the saw I used was a POS:

http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/9004/mg5066wx4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[thideras]

Keep them coming!!!

[dz_jad]

nice. that first pic is sharp.
Not only the 7' factor with that huge bong, the factor that the huge water pipe and the water is being pushed up it! Just tons of capacity.

[jcw122]

OK, my Whitewater also had some sticky gunk and tarnish on the insides, so I just cleaned that out. Shame on you Dtek!

THE BONG WORKS! I just tested it with only the pump running to the showerhead. Pics in a moment.

[thegreek]

OK, my Whitewater also had some sticky gunk and tarnish on the insides, so I just cleaned that out. Shame on you Dtek!

THE BONG WORKS! I just tested it with only the pump running to the showerhead. Pics in a moment.
nice, can't wait

[inkfx]

Very cool. Can't wait to see everything up and running. Keep up the good work! :thup:

[4od]

Make sure you have the shower head perfectly vertical, on my first try all the water was pouring onto the side, and i didn't notice for days, until i realized it was a bit too quiet (the water was dripping off the bottom of the tube, not falling from the showerhead as planned)

[jcw122]

Thanks for all the support and excitement guys. This is definitely getting tiring, but you guys are encouraging :D

Your reward!

THE WORKING BONG (minus blocks)

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/7184/mg5076ds2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Freeze-action shot of the water going down the tube!
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/2407/mg5077sl9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Extra pics:

Cleaned up the Whitewater, now it's very shiny :D
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/1425/mg5074cn6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

The pump: very quiet
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/5008/mg5078zl9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

The showerhead, notice the 1/2" barb to 1/2" shower head threading
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/5464/mg5082lx6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/6910/mg5072jq1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Water and electrical lines
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/4460/mg5085de9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


The entire thing is not very quiet, with the water falling and hitting the reserve water...I'm trying to figure out what I can put inside of it to make it quiet. Possibly ping pong balls as I've heard about before, maybe something else a bit more interesting.

[jcw122]

I found leaks in the PVC, so the glue is drying on them right now. JEEZ! 7/16 tubing is SO hard to get off 1/2" barbs!!

[orionlion82]

I found leaks in the PVC, so the glue is drying on them right now. JEEZ! 7/16 tubing is SO hard to get off 1/2" barbs!!

heat the tubing.

[jcw122]

heat the tubing.

I did, that helps alot. Good to see ya OrionLion :D

[Son1990]

mmmmmm Big bongs ftw

[imposter]

How are you going to cool the water? im a tad confused. i may figure this out in a min or 2 lol.

[jcw122]

How are you going to cool the water? im a tad confused. i may figure this out in a min or 2 lol.

Water from the blocks goes into the showerhead...down the bong...thru the pump, and back to the blocks

[SolidxSnake]

How are you going to cool the water? im a tad confused. i may figure this out in a min or 2 lol.


Evaporation (it's technical name is an evaporative cooling tower).

Know when you go into a pool, and when you walk out a couple hours later you are freezing while soaked? Same idea. I forget how to explain it, jcw had a site that explained it well.

[jcw122]

Evaporation (it's technical name is an evaporative cooling tower).

Know when you go into a pool, and when you walk out a couple hours later you are freezing while soaked? Same idea. I forget how to explain it, jcw had a site that explained it well.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bong_cooler

That?

[SolidxSnake]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bong_cooler

That?


Nah, it was another one, some random computer site. Lemme dig it up.

http://www.wc101.com/guides/bongs/

That was easy ;)

[Clockwork_Apple]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/ptrlynch/bong_smoke.jpg
OMG the mist! :drool:

[thegreek]

is the fine for the fan? can it cause any short or fire?

[imposter]

Oh an evaporator i know what your talking about. Same thing how a AC works and why alcohol feels so cool. the evaporation drops the temperatures way down. lol. lol ok i get it then so you keep feeding water to this thing? why not sure throw alcohol into this thing and see what that does. even though the smell might kill you. hahah.

try this outside of course =P

[SolidxSnake]

is the fine for the fan? can it cause any short or fire?


Nope, won't do anything, the fan blows into the bong, not out. The only place it will condense is in the bottom of the blades or the hub. The mist will just be pushed in... I think.

[jcw122]

OK I'm leak testing right now, but I can't get the tubing onto the Y attachement for the Whitewater...it get's half way then it won't budge, I even heated it in boiling water...not budging.

Nope, won't do anything, the fan blows into the bong, not out. The only place it will condense is in the bottom of the blades or the hub. The mist will just be pushed in... I think.

Could be bad for THAT fan...the Uberbong has an odd configuration which I don't think is explained well.

To me, it looks like air comes in the side Y, the top, and out that fan. For my design, it will either be going out just the Y, or in the Y with a fan. Not out the Y with a fan.

[jcw122]

DONE!

Pics will be up later on.

I was up til 4AM last night completing this POS....it's loud AS HELL, and I'm not really liking it at all. I'm sort of mad at myself to making this thing, because I know it's just going to **** me off w/ the sound.

OK well...temps on my Scythe Ninja while running F@H were: ~41c

Now w/ the bong I'm running ~32c

The 9800Pro (XT) doesn't have temp sensing, so I dunno about that.

[imposter]

Why don't you duct the humid air outside?

[natewildes]

allow me to blab for a moment...

Hyposthetically, if you were to duct the humid air/water mist into another container, most of the water would condense, and the air would escape (you'd need to figure out a way to allow air but not water out). That would prevent your house from turning into one big mold-fest, and you'd be able to re-use the water. You could even plumb a connector between the two containers with a valve...

Me thinks I need to try a bong :D

[orionlion82]

DONE!

Pics will be up later on.

I was up til 4AM last night completing this POS....it's loud AS HELL, and I'm not really liking it at all. I'm sort of mad at myself to making this thing, because I know it's just going to **** me off w/ the sound.

OK well...temps on my Scythe Ninja while running F@H were: ~41c

Now w/ the bong I'm running ~32c

The 9800Pro (XT) doesn't have temp sensing, so I dunno about that.

hey, nice temps!
is 32C under load?
tried going any higher with your clocks yet?

the sound is something you really have to tune for your ear.
mine sounded like lawnsprinklers. it was a "shhhhhh" like static on the radio with a high pitched "eeeee" just at the high end of my hearing range.
it really diddnt trouble me that much. no dripping or gurgling noises, that would have been more uncomfortable.

i allso found that lower water levels made it quieter,which reminded me it was time for a refill but i used a "wye" and not a "tee" like your setup. i allso had a foot or so of pipe on the short end of the wye.

you might try a new deeper resiviour,made of a different material and not fill it as much.

i really do need to get those pics up....

[imposter]

My 9800 pro (flashed to XT) has a sensor on it. Did you try ati tray tools?

[SolidxSnake]

My 9800 pro (flashed to XT) has a sensor on it. Did you try ati tray tools?


That's what he uses. You probably have an XT PCB (which has an LM63 IC on the front, looks different than the Pro PCB), whereas jcw has the 9800p PCB.

9800p PCB:
http://www.techarp.com/article/ATI/Radeon_9800_Mod/128mb_old.jpg

9800XT PCB:
http://www.techarp.com/article/ATI/Radeon_9800_Mod/256mb_new.jpg

[jcw122]

Success with sound dampening! I was able to reduce the sound by A LOT by putting ping pong balls in the PVC part of the resovior...very very effective! Although it' still loud, it's not nearly as bad.


I'm now running @ 2.4ghz w/ 1.55v, running around 38c with F@H running.

I was also able to OC my 9800Pro (XT) a good bit, but not as much as I would have liked. I went from 412/390 to 425/395. I was hoping for at least 450 on the core, but it artifacts badly.


That's what he uses. You probably have an XT PCB (which has an LM63 IC on the front, looks different than the Pro PCB), whereas jcw has the 9800p PCB.

9800p PCB:
http://www.techarp.com/article/ATI/Radeon_9800_Mod/128mb_old.jpg

9800XT PCB:
http://www.techarp.com/article/ATI/Radeon_9800_Mod/256mb_new.jpg

Right and right :D

I do use ATI Tray Tools, latest, and I don't have the XT board, but I do have the R360 core.

[SolidxSnake]

Success with sound dampening! I was able to reduce the sound by A LOT by putting ping pong balls in the PVC part of the resovior...very very effective! Although it' still loud, it's not nearly as bad.


I'm now running @ 2.4ghz w/ 1.55v, running around 38c with F@H running.

I was also able to OC my 9800Pro (XT) a good bit, but not as much as I would have liked. I went from 412/390 to 425/395. I was hoping for at least 450 on the core, but it artifacts badly.




Right and right :D

I do use ATI Tray Tools, latest, and I don't have the XT board, but I do have the R360 core.


Nice clocks, 425/395! I wish my ram went higher than that... I've got 'em sinked and vmodded, but it just won't go any higher than 370. My core is plenty higher, it artifacts mildly at 490 (though the artifacts are terrible in FEARCombat if I run it at 490), but it's stable 470. IIRC, your card isn't voltmodded, correct? Once it is I'm sure it'll be able to get even higher clocks. Have you tried it on a standard 9800p BIOS, to see if the extra shader has any effect on the overclock?

[imposter]

Hmm, thats weird i bet if you waited like 30 days you would have gotten the new PCB and R360. lol. Did you flash your bios, or do you have it at XT clocks? only way for the sensor to work is if it literally has a XT bios on it. windows should read it as 9800 XT.

[speed bump]

Are you sure you got a good mount a the block? 32°c sounds alittle high for a bong that size with just a newcastle and 9800pro.

[SolidxSnake]

Hmm, thats weird i bet if you waited like 30 days you would have gotten the new PCB and R360. lol. Did you flash your bios, or do you have it at XT clocks? only way for the sensor to work is if it literally has a XT bios on it. windows should read it as 9800 XT.


Thing is, his card doesn't have the sensor physically on it, it's just the R360 core on a 9800p PCB.

[jcw122]

Are you sure you got a good mount a the block? 32°c sounds alittle high for a bong that size with just a newcastle and 9800pro.

I'm not sure how the mount was. Honestly the way that the Maze4 and the Whitewater mount are RETARDED....it's the stupidest mountings I've ever had to deal with, so they may be a bit off.

The reason I think they are so bad, is because you have to hold down the block yourself while you screw it on, then you have to make sure you screw it in to the right amount of turns, which the instructions are very vague about. Both the Maze4 and Whitewater instructions were EXTREMELY vague and I had to find out how to do them by going online to other sources. Pretty lousy. The Whitewater also has some horizontal play to the block, sure it doesn't move up and down, but it can twist a bit, which is also kinda stupid.

Hmm, thats weird i bet if you waited like 30 days you would have gotten the new PCB and R360. lol. Did you flash your bios, or do you have it at XT clocks? only way for the sensor to work is if it literally has a XT bios on it. windows should read it as 9800 XT.

I got the XT bios, edited them to lower clocks, because at the time I couldn't do XT clocks.

[SolidxSnake]

I'm not sure how the mount was. Honestly the way that the Maze4 and the Whitewater mount are RETARDED....it's the stupidest mountings I've ever had to deal with, so they may be a bit off.

The reason I think they are so bad, is because you have to hold down the block yourself while you screw it on, then you have to make sure you screw it in to the right amount of turns, which the instructions are very vague about. Both the Maze4 and Whitewater instructions were EXTREMELY vague and I had to find out how to do them by going online to other sources. Pretty lousy. The Whitewater also has some horizontal play to the block, sure it doesn't move up and down, but it can twist a bit, which is also kinda stupid.



I got the XT bios, edited them to lower clocks, because at the time I couldn't do XT clocks.


You don't have to tighten the blocks to the right amount of turns. My WhiteWater (Same mounting as you, 4 bolts), slide the block on, slide on springs, and then push the block down against the CPU and tighten the knurled nuts. I just tighten them down all the way since I got a CPU with an IHS. Almost everything has horizontal play as well, I've never encountered a block or heatsink without horizontal play.

The Maze4 is pretty easy too, it's just annoying for me as the bolts are a little crooked, so they don't go in the holes evenly all the time.

[jcw122]

Yeah SxS, with the Maze4, the directions from DangerDen (online) seemed incorrect or outdated. They didn't talk about the use of the big plastic bracket thing, and the mounting kit didn't come with the stuff they talked about. Freekin' morons.

You should see my Arctic Cooling ATI Silencer...it's logged with dust SO badly, I have no idea how my 9800Pro was getting cooled.

[speed bump]

I have never used springs with my mounts but what I always do is. Tighten down the block to where it seems snug. Then boot into the bios and keep tightening them down until the temps stop dropping. Same with the VGA card unless I don't have temp monitoring then I tighten it down to where I can't really sqeeze the block and the card together anymore.

[SolidxSnake]

Yeah SxS, with the Maze4, the directions from DangerDen (online) seemed incorrect or outdated. They didn't talk about the use of the big plastic bracket thing, and the mounting kit didn't come with the stuff they talked about. Freekin' morons.

You should see my Arctic Cooling ATI Silencer...it's logged with dust SO badly, I have no idea how my 9800Pro was getting cooled.


Yeah, theirs was outdated. What ya do is get the neoprene pad on there, peel off the backing on the acryllic backplate, line it up and press it down, then do it the way they say to (t-washer, spring, washer, knurled nut).

[jcw122]

Yeah, theirs was outdated. What ya do is get the neoprene pad on there, peel off the backing on the acryllic backplate, line it up and press it down, then do it the way they say to (t-washer, spring, washer, knurled nut).

hehe oops, I left the peel on the backplate...it seemed discolored, didn't realize it was removeable lol.

[SolidxSnake]

hehe oops, I left the peel on the backplate...it seemed discolored, didn't realize it was removeable lol.


Haha, it's not a big deal. It just looks better without :D

[zexmarquies01]

great job on the bong-cooler so far!

God, i miss the guy that we used to call the tornado man ( i think, because he made tornado bongs...explanation below ). he made bongs, and he did them GOOD.

he'd have like a 3 layer bong, the top layer would pour water in, and it was connected to the next layer, but with a plate between the layers, with holes in it. The top layer would shoot water into it at an angle, forcing the water to make a vortex. which the water would then drain into the 2nd layer.

the same thing happened on the 2nd layer. another bad-ass looking vortex.

then the 2nd layer would go down to the 1st layer, which was basicly the res.

he also had put the fans on the top, blowing down, and the intlet of the bong was put in the side of the bong, instead of the top.

He had some of the BEST temps we had ever seen in a bong cooler, not to mention they were the coolest damn things i had ever seen.

sadly, about a year ago i was asking about the guy, and his pictures of his bong/s, but evidently the pictures have been since deleted from OCF's memory. And at that time, no one could find his old pics. Its something i'd LOVE to either do myself, or just see someone else do it!

i'd really love to see those pics again, so i can see exactly how he did it. cause alot of the details are fuzzy ( remember, this was like 3 years ago ).

[orionlion82]

great job on the bong-cooler so far!

God, i miss the guy that we used to call the tornado man ( i think, because he made tornado bongs...explanation below ). he made bongs, and he did them GOOD.

he'd have like a 3 layer bong, the top layer would pour water in, and it was connected to the next layer, but with a plate between the layers, with holes in it. The top layer would shoot water into it at an angle, forcing the water to make a vortex. which the water would then drain into the 2nd layer.

the same thing happened on the 2nd layer. another bad-ass looking vortex.

then the 2nd layer would go down to the 1st layer, which was basicly the res.

he also had put the fans on the top, blowing down, and the intlet of the bong was put in the side of the bong, instead of the top.

He had some of the BEST temps we had ever seen in a bong cooler, not to mention they were the coolest damn things i had ever seen.

sadly, about a year ago i was asking about the guy, and his pictures of his bong/s, but evidently the pictures have been since deleted from OCF's memory. And at that time, no one could find his old pics. Its something i'd LOVE to either do myself, or just see someone else do it!

i'd really love to see those pics again, so i can see exactly how he did it. cause alot of the details are fuzzy ( remember, this was like 3 years ago ).

woweee! that allmost sounds like a medium pressure high-flow setup.
Swirly-bong. how interesting!

[dz_jad]

**goes to study his toilet to get ideas**

[Temo Vryce]

great job on the bong-cooler so far!

God, i miss the guy that we used to call the tornado man ( i think, because he made tornado bongs...explanation below ). he made bongs, and he did them GOOD.

he'd have like a 3 layer bong, the top layer would pour water in, and it was connected to the next layer, but with a plate between the layers, with holes in it. The top layer would shoot water into it at an angle, forcing the water to make a vortex. which the water would then drain into the 2nd layer.

the same thing happened on the 2nd layer. another bad-ass looking vortex.

then the 2nd layer would go down to the 1st layer, which was basicly the res.

he also had put the fans on the top, blowing down, and the intlet of the bong was put in the side of the bong, instead of the top.

He had some of the BEST temps we had ever seen in a bong cooler, not to mention they were the coolest damn things i had ever seen.

sadly, about a year ago i was asking about the guy, and his pictures of his bong/s, but evidently the pictures have been since deleted from OCF's memory. And at that time, no one could find his old pics. Its something i'd LOVE to either do myself, or just see someone else do it!

i'd really love to see those pics again, so i can see exactly how he did it. cause alot of the details are fuzzy ( remember, this was like 3 years ago ).

That would have been Pepsi and his Twisters. It was some really nice work but he dropped off the face of the world suddenly.

[||Console||]

hehe oops, I left the peel on the backplate...it seemed discolored, didn't realize it was removeable lol.
I did that my first time with the mase4 as well

you think it is a PITA with 2 screws on NV and x1000 ati cards you have to use the 4 screw mounting that is a pain

[Ducatti]

**goes to study his toilet to get ideas**
There's a future copy and paste into someone's signature...

[||Console||]

Did you ruff up the sides of the pvc where you glued it to the T ?

[jcw122]

Did you ruff up the sides of the pvc where you glued it to the T ?

Like with sand paper or something? I dulled the edges of my cuts, that's it.
We cleaned all PVC using soap and water (to not contaminate the distilled) then I then applied Purple Primer and General Purpose PVC Glue.

[jcw122]

Final pics coming within the next half hour!

[||Console||]

Yea with sand paper . I havent got my gluw yet so I could read the side I just figured with it ruffed up it would stick better

[Temo Vryce]

I used to work as an Irrigation Technician at a local Golf Course. We dealt with pressures up and over 300 psi and flow rates in the Gallons per second. Roughing up the joints wasn't something that we worried about when fixing our breaks in the PVC lines. Mind you most of those pipes were in the ground. We tried to do when we could, but when it's hot in the middle of August and greens are burning, you just want to get it patched as quick as you can. For this type of use I don't think that roughing up the pipe or not roughing it up will make that much of a difference.

[jcw122]

Installation and Final Setup:

OK so I actually finished this over the weekend, but was too lazy for pics so here's the stuff!

To summarize, the installation took up my entire Thursday night, and I was up until 4AM working, even then didn't finish. The reason for this was because I ran into a nice set of problems and confusions.


Uninstall of Air Cooling Heatsinks
First off, after uninstalling my Scythe Ninja and ATI Silencer, I noticed the amount of dust they had in them. WOW were they dusty. The Silencer was completely blocked with dust.
http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/5666/mg5092hl6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/5091/mg5096ur6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Problems:

My first problems occured when I realized that the Scythe Ninja bracket and mountings could not be used with the Whitewater's stupid mounting system. Because of this I had to remove my motherboard, and also had to remove the backplate that was STUCK (adhesive) to the motherboard. I used a hairdryer to remove it, but it took a good while, and I was scared of killing the mobo because of the high heat. Even after it was removed, it left behind some padding crap. Fortunately the mobo seems fine.

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/9469/mg5098xv7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


I also managed to tear out the fan header on my 9800Pro because the DAMN SILENCER CLIPPED INTO THE HEADER. This made removal of the fan header from the fan plug nearly impossible, I wasn't able to remove it.

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/3936/mg5100gs5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


Final Mounting and Setup

Well I Arti-cleaned the CPU and GPU, and mounted the blocks. I had tubing pre-installed on the Whitewater to the relative lengths, and just hooked up everything and placed the bong behind my computer. Here's the money shots!

Whitewater Mounted
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/3349/mg5103qq0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Maze4 Mounted Incorrectly :D
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/4628/mg5105vt4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

THE FINAL SETUP!
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/9009/mg5114vl4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Tubing into the case through a 120mm hole (previously unused anyway, it was intake for the 120mm for the Ninja)
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/7025/mg5112tl8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Bong w/ some padding near it (no effect)
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/1077/mg5108mz5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


As a final note, I ran into some problems yesterday, for some reason the water pressure at the shower head began to drop, so I took out the pump, it was fine but I found some odd residue at the surface of the bucket. I'm guessing (and hoping) it was from either the ping pong balls, the PVC glue that went un-rinsed, or something. I also noticed some tiny dust particles on the surface of the water (very few), so I ended up installing the filter onto the pump, which wasn't on before because of space problems. I worked it out by orienting the pump vertically, no issues or performance hits with that.

I'll also add, that my room has become alot cooler, BUT I can really feel the heat when I put my hand near the air exit of the bong (bottom Y fitting)


Big thanks to everyone who helped me with this! Especially Sewerbeing and SolidxSnake! Also including everyone who gave their support in this thread and who helped me in other threads learn about WCing and bongs!

[||Console||]

... that mase4 is upside down ...

[jcw122]

... that mase4 is upside down ...

That was fixed, I just didn't take a pic afterwards, and I edited my post to cite that. Thx.

[||Console||]

So what is the Delta on your temps ? now vs before

[jcw122]

So what is the Delta on your temps ? now vs before

Old temps, judging from CoreTemp by The Coolest, used to be 45-48c at 1.5v...under F@H only. New temps are up at 37-38c with the 2.4ghz OC, and voltage up at 1.55v

So that's about 10c as the delta.

[dz_jad]

Congrats! Any clue the humidity in your room before and after?

[jcw122]

Congrats! Any clue the humidity in your room before and after?

No clue. So far it has not been noticeable. Temperature wise, my room has felt much much cooler.

The season is also changing right now, and the weather has been very different every week, so I don't think I'll have much a way of measuring.

[Pro*Banshee]

That's a T fitting buddy, not a Y :-P

Good design though...You don't have to lash yours to anything to get it to stand up like I had to to mine.

If it's cold in Philidelphia like it is in Pittsburgh, pipe some of that chilly, dry air through your input fan and watch your temps fall even lower.

As far as mold growing in your house from the humidity? No. Maybe in a worst case scenario; like:
1. No sunlight
2. Room sealed air tight
3. prior mold problem

Most new furnaces installed these days have humidifers installed into them anyways because the air is dry, and mold isn't a problem for them. Did the Scrubbie pads work out okay for you? If you spaced them so most of the fan air blew through them, you could atomise the water and lower your temps slightly.

[jcw122]

That's a T fitting buddy, not a Y :-P

Good design though...You don't have to lash yours to anything to get it to stand up like I had to to mine.

If it's cold in Philidelphia like it is in Pittsburgh, pipe some of that chilly, dry air through your input fan and watch your temps fall even lower.

As far as mold growing in your house from the humidity? No. Maybe in a worst case scenario; like:
1. No sunlight
2. Room sealed air tight
3. prior mold problem

Most new furnaces installed these days have humidifers installed into them anyways because the air is dry, and mold isn't a problem for them. Did the Scrubbie pads work out okay for you? If you spaced them so most of the fan air blew through them, you could atomise the water and lower your temps slightly.

Yes, I added the Scotch Bright Pad, it helped a good amount, but I still would like to get it more quiet, preferably to sleep to.

I also DID finally notice an increase in humidity when I was gaming late last night, my body seemed damper than usual.

Also Pro*Banshee, I don't have any fans in this thing yet, the setup is already very awkward to move around, and I'm not sure how to wire a 12v fan all the way over to the T.

[jcw122]

I'm noticing pretty good water loss from the res....about an inch or 2 when it's running from 3PM to 12PM.

It's getting hotter outside right now, and I'll have to see how temps do and all now.

[||Console||]

Yea water loss is gonna happen . See any Ice crystals yet ?

[jcw122]

Unfortunately this WCing setup is going to be dismantled tomorrow, we are moving to a small apartment (parents divorcing...we're low on money). Kinda sucks, but I'm ready to go back to Air Cooling, this thing is a pain in my ass sometimes, because I keep losing pressure at the showerhead, and it doesn't spray right.

[g0dM@n]

wow, i didn't know about bong cooling until today... that's COOL!! (literally) lol...

i hate humidity, though... maybe I can have the bong sticking outside of the house. :)

[WonderingSoul]

That is a super sexy bong cooler reguardless. Anyone know if the Via Aqua pumps wors not fully submerged? I want to build a budget WCing set up and not spend a lot on a pump.

[jcw122]

wow, i didn't know about bong cooling until today... that's COOL!! (literally) lol...

i hate humidity, though... maybe I can have the bong sticking outside of the house. :)

It didn't seem like there was a major humidity increase, if there was, it was comfortable and OK. I just switched back to Air Cooling, and my room heats up, makes me more uncomfortable than the humidity did.

[g0dM@n]

It didn't seem like there was a major humidity increase, if there was, it was comfortable and OK. I just switched back to Air Cooling, and my room heats up, makes me more uncomfortable than the humidity did.
oh wait a sec... so this bong system doesn't heat up your room?!?!? cuz that's a big PLUS for me if this is so!!

[||Console||]

I think it would cool the room vs heat it

[johannesRS]

that's something that I've been thinking about: how can they cool the ambient also?

I mean, rain cools the air throw it falls by the same reason, but for me the heat goes up in the same time. What I think is that great part of the removed heat goes until above the clouds, which work as a thermal insulation, at the same time that reduce the light incidence below and reflects great part (let's make a cloud that physics would love: infinite plan, reflecting 50% of the heat! :D) of the IR back to space.

BUT that doesn't make ANY sense if it cools the air that is outside the bong, cause that "should" be at a higher temperature than the water inside the system. What's the trick at this point?

And sorry, new to the forum, interested in WC for a long time, and now seems that my new 4200+ is somehow so worst than my 3000+ that WC is a need! :D

[||Console||]

Well since it isnt air tight the Cold air from in the tube would cool the room a bit as well . ( I could be wrong but I would thing with would happen )

[jcw122]

that's something that I've been thinking about: how can they cool the ambient also?

I mean, rain cools the air throw it falls by the same reason, but for me the heat goes up in the same time. What I think is that great part of the removed heat goes until above the clouds, which work as a thermal insulation, at the same time that reduce the light incidence below and reflects great part (let's make a cloud that physics would love: infinite plan, reflecting 50% of the heat! :D) of the IR back to space.

BUT that doesn't make ANY sense if it cools the air that is outside the bong, cause that "should" be at a higher temperature than the water inside the system. What's the trick at this point?

And sorry, new to the forum, interested in WC for a long time, and now seems that my new 4200+ is somehow so worst than my 3000+ that WC is a need! :D

Welcome to the Forums! I've also been wondering this myself.

oh wait a sec... so this bong system doesn't heat up your room?!?!? cuz that's a big PLUS for me if this is so!!

No sir, it was definitely a lot cooler than my Air Cooling. On the few occasions that I did feel a bit of humidity, it was during times where I had been running it all day, and had my room door closed. Usually I would just open the door, turn on the fan, or open the window.

I think it would cool the room vs heat it

I'm not sure if it actively cooled it, but I know that the maker of the Uberbong (google it) said that he noticed a big temperature drop in his ambient room temps when he was using his bong.

[jcw122]

BTW I also figured out why I was getting a pressure drop at the shower head...I found that the line was kinking right before my video card, and I hadn't realized it until I took it all out.

[johannesRS]

yeah, but the ubber one has a fan on top taking most of the output out the "universe". maybe therat's the trick.

I'm wondering if the trick is exactly that we are not talking about a locked room system...

[orionlion82]

Just saw your sig. sorry it diddnt work out.

[BongCooler]

that's something that I've been thinking about: how can they cool the ambient also?

I mean, rain cools the air throw it falls by the same reason, but for me the heat goes up in the same time. What I think is that great part of the removed heat goes until above the clouds, which work as a thermal insulation, at the same time that reduce the light incidence below and reflects great part (let's make a cloud that physics would love: infinite plan, reflecting 50% of the heat! :D) of the IR back to space.

BUT that doesn't make ANY sense if it cools the air that is outside the bong, cause that "should" be at a higher temperature than the water inside the system. What's the trick at this point?

The ambient air is being cooled by the evaporation also. It should feel cooler in his room than the other rooms. The heat ends up moving to the rest of the house and eventually outside. This is how a mister at a summer concert or a patio (in the Southwest) works. If you had a supply of cool water and a suitably dry environment you could use it instead of an air conditioner in the summer!

I don't know if this is an efficientcy issue. Is this effect because there is unused capacity in the system?

[thorilan]

what is the ambient of your room before running the bong amd local pressure average. could really use pics of the bong itself
the colder the air the less humidity it can hold ( saturation point is lower) and more importantly the more resistant to humidity change it will be especially if you live in a high pressure area

btw using regular fans CAN have problems if the system is not properly designed

[QuietIce]

Holy Old Thread, Batman ...! :D

[jcw122]

Holy Old Thread, Batman ...! :D

Crazy kids!:screwy: :D

I can't wait to make another bong cooler once I build a new system. I figured out most of the problems I had during the disassembly. The only issue I can foresee having would be build up in the water, as I only ran it for about a month, which isn't long at all. That and adding water was getting annoying ($).

[thorilan]

you know if you really want to learn you could always read a book called aviation weather put out by the FAA, its really dry reading but you would have a much better grasp on evaporative cooling.
(yes the pun was intended)

[BongCooler]

What do you think about using 2 loops? One a standard closed loop with coolant for the computer and a second open loop for the tower. This is what Nuclear Power Plants use to keep the core water from contaminating the coolant water.

You could use a radiator or a just a copper loop in the bucket with a submersible pump. The closed loop would be standard except the radiator would be submersed to transfer the heat to the tower.

This would cut way down on cleaning and allow you to reuse your loop with just a fan if you want.

[MARCI]

yeah, but you'd need two pumps,

[jcw122]

yeah, but you'd need two pumps,

With the pump I used, that would cost an incredible $30 extra. It's not a big deal if you can find the right parts.