Adatives...do i need them?

fireandice · Apr 2, 2007

Ok i run a bigwater 734 system. yeah its crap blah blah blah. its all i got and it works good for me so if its not broke dont fix it but when it brakes replace it with a swiftech

Ok im dabateing on running just plane distiled water. could i do this? im just running whats with the kit and some brass fitting "i can take those out if i have to" but im pretty shure its all copper and no outher metals in the loop. So should i just run distiled water if so how meny drops of iodine should i use?

I ran this kit for over a year and i dident see any groth in the loop.

Otter · Apr 2, 2007

Ten drops of Iodine per liter should do it. Iodine isn't effective against algae, though, so add some aquarium algaecide too.

If you've got all copper and brass, you probably don't need an anticorrosive. Still 2% Hy-per Lube or 5% Zerex racing coolant isn't going to affect performance much, and I wouldn't put it past Thermaltake to sneak a bit of aluminum or the wrong kind of brass in there just to prove they are absolute morons. Also, without the additives, the distilled will probably leach more copper out of your radiator and become conductive faster.

fireandice · Apr 2, 2007

so like 15-20 drops of iodine " i want that water to be like a nucular waste land to microbes" little bit of anti freeze " i got some dex cool" i dont wanna change the color of the water to much so it will be a smal amount of the dexcool just to get a little in there.

Mycobacteria · Apr 2, 2007

Iodine is is still the drug of choice the more you add the better it gets.

Antifreze does nothing against bacteria and I mean NOTHING at all.

All copper parts are good, because copper has anti microbial properites.

If you want to get serious about killing bugs get some silver tubes, I highly recomended them.

If you want to create "nucluar waste" I would recomend a chemical called Ethidium Bromide its highly cytotoxic (1 drop is all you will need). The chemical binds to DNA (ie all life on earth no DNA = no life) and the stuff is VU reactive too!

Personally I run ONLY distilled water and it works well.
I sugest you try the no additives aproach 1st and if its not working for you then add some iodine.

no nutrients = no growth
no light = no algae

voigts · Apr 2, 2007

Go to Walmart in the fish section and spend $4 on a bottle of aquarium algaecide that will last you forever. One drop is all it takes and you won't have any algae issues.

fireandice · Apr 2, 2007

Ok so im gonna try just iodine since i got some today. I hope thats good enought and i dont get any problems. I dident have any alge when i ran just the big water coolent.

SiGfever · Apr 2, 2007

My vote goes for Aquarium Algaecide also (follow label directions). Also 1-2oz of some kind of antifreeze never hurts.

fireandice · Apr 2, 2007

i dont think i can get algaecide. i gotta save the money i got to ship out a heatsink. I never had a problem with alge so i dont think i will. i'll do a 90/10 mix of distilled water. dex cool and a little iodine and check it in a few weeks for alge in the blocks and res. if i dont see any it should be pretty good.

Otter · Apr 2, 2007

Mycobacteria said:
If you want to create "nucluar waste" I would recomend a chemical called Ethidium Bromide its highly cytotoxic (1 drop is all you will need). The chemical binds to DNA (ie all life on earth no DNA = no life) and the stuff is VU reactive too!

Where would one get this stuff? And how dangerous would the resulting solution be to pets, children, and careless overclockers?

Mycobacteria · Apr 2, 2007

I get my Ethidium bromide from sigma chemicals.

When you order it in it will come with an MSDS just read it before you open the bottle.

Its cumulative cytotoxic substance ie you take 1 drop today, that drop stays with your for the rest of your life. Because it binds strongly to DNA, and its UV reactive its a good tool for Molecular biology. Its cheap and very effective so we have not moved to other less toxic alternatives.

Before we didnt know that Ethidium bromide could cause cancer. So these days you see some "old school" molecular biologists with unsusual cancers. Unfortunate because these are the ones with the most experience in the field, we need to learn from them quickly before they pass away.

If you do chose this path, get lots of chemical resistant gloves handle it like it was mercury because once you spil it its difficult to clean up. Dont throw it down the sink (UV reactive fish)...

fireandice · Apr 2, 2007

UV reactive is cool. but im not down with it binding to dna. i wouldent touch that crap with a 10 foot pole.

Otter · Apr 2, 2007

Mycobacteria said:
Before when we didnt know that Ethidium bromide could cause cancer. So these days you see some "old school" molecular biologists with unsusual cancers. Unfortunate because these are the ones with the most experience in the field, we need to learn from them quickly before they pass away.

Oh man. Of all the things I'd like to learn from a mentor's experience, the carcinogenic properties of a common lab chemical would not be first. I suppose you have to thank them for taking the bullet, though.

If you do chose this path, get lots of chemical resistant gloves handle it like it was mercury because once you spil it its difficult to clean up. Dont throw it down the sink (UV reactive fish)...

Thanks for the suggestion, but I think this stuff should stay in the lab. Growth in the loop is a concern, but it's not that big a concern.

SiGfever · Apr 2, 2007

Otter said:
Oh man. Of all the things I'd like to learn from a mentor's experience, the carcinogenic properties of a common lab chemical would not be first. I suppose you have to thank them for taking the bullet, though.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I think this stuff should stay in the lab. Growth in the loop is a concern, but it's not that big a concern.

The risk outways the benefits in our world. Aquarium Algaecide is cheap and won't cause a DNA meltdown.

voigts · Apr 3, 2007

I think I'll just stick with my $4 bottle of algaecide. I don't have to worry about it binding with my DNA, and the fish can have all they want of it as far as I am concerned.

Myco, what in the world do you do for a living?

Mycobacteria · Apr 3, 2007

That reminds me... I have to test some swimming pool algacide, mabye not only does it kill algae it might kill bacteria aswell... like two birds with one stone. If I find its good we can drop the Iodine and just use pool algacide instead.

I recently started a phd its not really a "living"

Otter · Apr 4, 2007

I doubt very much that aquarium algaecide is a good bactericide. Aquarium filters need bacteria to function properly. This is important enough that the usual procedure is to seed a new tank with water or an old filter from an established tank, or perhaps a couple unfortunate goldfish, and wait a week or two before adding fish you want to keep. If the algaecide were a broad-spectrum bactericide, it would be more trouble than it's worth.

fireandice · Apr 4, 2007

Ok alge needs light to grow right? what if i use black tubeing in my loop. no light should mean no alge growth. The only light would be from the clear top on my cpu block but if needed i could use some electrical tape to black it out.

would that make it so no algie would grow?

Otter · Apr 4, 2007

Yes. If your tubing, res, and fittings are all completely opaque, there's no way algae can live in your loop.

Mycobacteria · Apr 4, 2007

Aquarium algacide and swimming pool algacide different? Are the acitve ingredients both based on copper?

Raizy · Apr 4, 2007

Hmm maybe I'll wrap my tubes with aluminum foil ? Maybe it will help dissipate heat from the tubes aswell as keep algae from growing?

Just an idea...

Adatives...do i need them?

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