WaterCooling Parts -- *Waiting for funds to transfer to Paypal*

Okay, when my funds are completed transferring to my paypal account, I am going to place an order over at dangerden.com

I did not bother ordering a pre-mixed MCT-5 or any other solutions. My plan is to use 85% distilled water, 10% ANti-freeze, and 5% of that 'Zerex Super Coolant' in the pic. I am not sure if it's a bad idea to mix the zerex with the antifreeze and water (whether it will interact with each other) -- maybe I should just use 90/10 Distilled water/anti-freeze and forget the Zerex? If anyone could give me some info would help me a lot... I might put some iodine in the mixture as well, like a tablespoon per litre.

If you're too lazy to look at pics:

Pump: 12V DD-D5 Pump
Radiator: Double Heater Core with Fittings
Fittings: Perfect Seal G 1/4 Fittings
Tubing: ClearFlex 60 Tubing 1/2" ID 3/4" OD
Reservoir: Fillport Reservoir with added Fillport (+11 bucks)
[Edit] changed CPU waterblock to Swiftech APOGEE GT http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=22287&vpn=APOGEE-GT&manufacture=Swiftech
GPU Water block: Acetal Top MAZE4-1GPU Peltier Version
Super Coolant: Zerex Super Coolant
Extra: Zalman RAMsinks for Vid card

If anyone has a recommendation on what to change/ to help me save some cash it be great! I am not sure what type of clamps to buy...

Zerex IS antifreeze.

Use Tygon tubes instead of clearflex....

What GPUs are you cooling?

Everyone around here loves antifreze... it doesnt kill bugs, it does NOT lower temps, it makes the water more viscous, its dangerous around pets and small children, none of you are running water below 0.

Get high flow fittings instead of perfet seal

I probably would get Bip2 instead of heatcore since it is same price.

Just looking on your setup do you really need to spend that much just to cool gpu. Probably you get more benefit from buying new card.

7600GS 80W pelt should be enough hmm, okay I will remove the zerex...lol I'm going to buy some plastic clamps instead -- although I am afraid to risk it...Maybe I should use the plastic clamps, and then use a ziptie --- 2 clamps to be extra safe, but who knows it may actually be a bad idea.

Tygon is very expensive, is it really worth it ? Is there any particular reason why you'd recommend tygon over Clearflex ?

Plastic Clamps: https://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=62&cat=33&page=1

I will use those on the hose, and then use a ziptie to be extra safe ( tell me if this is a bad idea ).

meionm said:

Just looking on your setup do you really need to spend that much just to cool gpu. Probably you get more benefit from buying new card.

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Yeah I thought about it, but I think it's more fun to invest in a watercooling kit I've developed the obsession... :O I'm just basically messing around with old hardware -- overclock as much. BTW I don't need to buy those meanwell PSU, I got a spare PSU I can relay with my main PSU which has double of the required amperage on the 12V rail

7600GS on water, hmm, okay.

Its a pain to get the zip tie off, because you have to cut it... apart from that I dont see any problems using both although it seems excessive.

Those plastic hose clamps are much cheaper at a hardware store like 1/2 the price. (save some coin)

I know tygon is expensive... I used to use clearflex before. You will find the tygon more flexable and more resistant to "clouding and scaling", good for tight bends and its clear looks. (you pay for what you get in life)

Okay, but isn't clouding just for aesethic reasons ? Clouding isn't going to hurt the actual watercooling performance is it ?

I would never use those plastic clamps. Go to your local hardware store and pick up some of the stainless steel clamps. The clouding probably wont hurt your temps but if you need to make some tight bends, Tygon is the way to go.

Could you please post a pic of what those steel hose clamps would look like to give me an idea on what to look for when I head over to home depot ?

Anyways, I heard those steel clamps may cut into the hose.

Mycobacteria said:

Everyone around here loves antifreze... it doesnt kill bugs, it does NOT lower temps, it makes the water more viscous, its dangerous around pets and small children, none of you are running water below 0.

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It's not so much that we love it, we just dislike oxidation. Even in a similar metals loop you're going to have a small interaction between the solder used in the radiator and the surrounding copper. Thats why at least 5% AF or similar anticorrosive should be added. If you're not too worried about it you can skip it (like I do). If you want pet/human safe, grab some propylene glycol based antifreeze and you're set.

Yeah the clouding is more a negative effect on looks than actual preformance. But dont forget tygon is also more flexable for those tight bends (that might be a preformance issue)...

I also use the real metal hose clamps, they look kinda ugly but they work so well. A pic is in this link just ask for a hose clamps at the hardware store (bring some spare tube to make sure it fits because they come in different sizes)

Yes it kinda cuts the tube but really its more like squishing it till it leaves a mark... We use them because they can create a very very tight hold over the tube.

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=505662

If anyone knows of any CPU waterblocks that is compatible with most sockets (775, 754, 939, 478, etc.) and is peltier compatible please show me

Exactly, antifreeze in reasonable amounts will not measurably effect your temps, and can only insure against problems months down the road.

After lots of messing around and reading over the years, I've seen this additive discussion wax and wane, rage and fume. It seems like it perpetuates itself largely I think because all of the WC sites sell these little useless 4oz bottles of things. Yesterday I hit up the local VW dealership on my way home and bought 1.5 liters of Pentosin G11 for $9.99, some of the sites sell the same stuff in dainty 4oz bottles for similar pricing. Add to that all the fluidxp and hydrox foolishness, and you've got 100 confused new watercoolers every week. I'm gonna be arrogant and just lay down the perfect additive mix.

For a loop with same metal elements: 95% distilled, 5% antifreeze, 10 drops of iodine, one drop of pet store aquarium algaecide.

For a loop with different metals just increase the ratio to 85/15.

I don't run with any UV or coloring, but if thats your bag just add the dye after you add everything else.

I dont use antifreze what kind of problems am I going to encounter some months down the track?

Will my loop rust and leak?? (ie oxidation)

Is ethylene glycol an oxygen scavenger? (ie binds tighly to oxygen molecules how does it protect against rust?)

jackrungh said:

For a loop with same metal elements: 95% distilled, 5% antifreeze, 10 drops of iodine, one drop of pet store aquarium algaecide.

For a loop with different metals just increase the ratio to 85/15.

I don't run with any UV or coloring, but if thats your bag just add the dye after you add everything else.

Click to expand...

Even if the metals were all the same in the loop, can I just use any custom mixture? Like 70/30.... 80/20, etc. of water/Anti Freeze ? As long as there is at least 10% of anti-freeze in the loop, I'll be okay ?

(edit) I changed the CPU waterblock to a Swiftech APOGEE GT.

Mycobacteria said:

I dont use antifreze what kind of problems am I going to encounter some months down the track?

Will my loop rust and leak?? (ie oxidation)

Is ethylene glycol an oxygen scavenger? (ie binds tighly to oxygen molecules how does it protect against rust?)

Click to expand...

You could run into issues. A lot of it depends on the metals in your loop. It doesn't hurt to run a little bit in a copper/brass loop (because of the solder) but you'll probably survive without it.

Antifreeze protects against oxidation in too ways. First, it raises the PH of the water (making it more base) to counteract oxidizers (acids and many types of metal salts, sodium chloride for example). Also there are chemicals in the antifreeze that substitute themselves to be oxidized in place of the metals you're trying to protect. Zinc compounds are common in applications other than antifreeze.

Also rust (iron oxide) isn't your worry unless you have a carbon steel part or a stainless steel part that comes from a semi-stainless family of steels (i.e. T2 tool steel). However, theres little reason to worry about that. Most stainless steel watercooling parts use 304 or 316 stainless steel, the latter of which being the most oxidation resistant of commonly found stainless steels.

In our loops, we're more worried about pitting. Aluminum allow (non-anodized) will literally dissolve over time if the protective aluminum oxide layer is removed constantly. As bad as that sounds, thats a very very rare thing to have happen, see the threads on Gallium TIM if you want a high speed version though .

Copper will sometimes plate other metals and in some cases will form compounds and dissolve. Sometimes other metals will plate it (chromium for example will bond to copper). That said, the most common type of failure we would see with a copper radiator and aluminum parts in the loop can be found as a failure point in car cooling systems. Some cars contain a copper heater core and an aluminum radiator.

If you don't run antifreeze in the loop, you'll have a puddle in your dashboard and interior after a few years . The important thing to remember though is that unlike rust which flakes off and causes more rust, aluminum and copper oxides (more-so aluminum oxides) offer a layer of protection from further oxidation. Copper oxidation can be removed with anything from kerosene (I usually use Never-Dull metal cleaner for this reason) to ketchup. Because of this I wouldn't *count on it* to further protect the metal and if you're going to store any brass or copper object for a long period of time you should use something like Renaissance wax to protect it.

Even if the metals were all the same in the loop, can I just use any custom mixture? Like 70/30.... 80/20, etc. of water/Anti Freeze ? As long as there is at least 10% of anti-freeze in the loop, I'll be okay ?

(edit) I changed the CPU waterblock to a Swiftech APOGEE GT.

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In a similar metals loop you can go as low as 5%. More than 15% would be overkill for almost any mixed metal water cooling loop. 10% should be fine for maximum protection. Remember, we're not trying to raise the boiling point of the water, just change the chemistry .

Excelsior said:

Zerex IS antifreeze.

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There is a Zerex antifreeze, but Zerex Super Racing Coolant is not antifreeze. Racing coolant does have anti-corrosives, but it isn't intended to significantly alter the freezing point. Racers use it because they can run a higher percentage of water and thus get better cooling than they would with antifreeze. We want to run mostly water for the same reason, and most of us don't leave our machines outside in the winter, hence racing coolant is a better additive for our purposes.

khriez said:

Even if the metals were all the same in the loop, can I just use any custom mixture? Like 70/30.... 80/20, etc. of water/Anti Freeze ? As long as there is at least 10% of anti-freeze in the loop, I'll be okay ?

Click to expand...

Its true that you will be guarded against corrosion, but the important thing to remember is that despite what any coolant manufacturer or web vendor might say, water is the most efficient liquid for heat transfer. So your question shouldn't really be, "Can I add more antifreeze?" Rather it should be, "What smallest possible amount of notwater can I get away with and still be OK?" It is for this reason that you only push the addition of corrosion resistance elements, algaecide, and anti-biotics only as much as is required by prudence. The more % water your loop is, the better your temps will be.

Otter said:

hence racing coolant is a better additive for our purposes.

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Agreed, but the advantage you are talking about is so minuscule that without several hundred dollars invested in testing equipment, I doubt you could measure a performance difference. That plus I already have a warm and fuzzy emotional bond to pentosin

So in summary:

85% Distilled water
10-15% antifreeze
A little bit of algaecide OR iodine ?

I'm changing my reservoir to a 5.25" drive bay type: http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=23186&vpn=S5.25-C&manufacture=D-Tek Customs It is made of Acrylic -- I heard that is a bad thing? Correct me if I'm wrong. Actually, I'm going to do my ordering from Ncix.com, shipping should be faster and cheaper since it's in Canada.

I've decided to keep the ClearFlex tubing and just buy 7 bucks worth of those "smartcoils".

Bay reservoirs are notorious for leaking, mostly because of shoddy work securing the acrylic sheets together. I have never really understood why, aside from aesthetic value, anyone would ever use a res, one more component to hog up space, when a T line is just as effective. Thats my little rant against reservoirs, but if you really want one, I suggest you avoid bay ones, unless you are willing to build your own, in which case you can control how well it is assembled and you can custom fit it to your environment.