Can i have an opinion on my choice of parts?

Alphacool Black ICE GT Stealth III 360mm Radiator
Evercool UltraSilent 120mm 4 pin Case Fan x 3
Swiftech MCRES Micro Reservoir
Koolance 10mm- (3/8") Tubing (300mm) x 10 = 3m
Alphacool AP1510 Centrifugal 12v Pump
Zalman ZM-WB4 Gold (CPU WaterBlock)
Zalman Anti-Corrosion ZM-G200 Coolant Blue - 500ml

PUMP SPEC
Maximum output new defined! New revision!

With the external adjustable DC voltage converters (12, 15, 18, 21 and 24 Volts) you may adapt the delivery rate of your pump to your own configuration. The 1500 litres which are achieved at the highest level satisfy even the most pretentious expectations.

The pump is attached at the transformer, and the transformer at the power pack of the PC.

NO 230V connection is needed! The extra power cable is superfluous as the pump turns on/off automatically with the PC.

This centrifugal pump is conceived for the thoroughgoing continuous use. The pump sells with 36 months warranty. Due to the G1/4" internal screw thread, the pump is compatible with all types of connections.

Powered by OASE !
Technical Data:
Pump performance: max. 1500 l/h
Delivery height: 6m
Power consumption: 17 W
Connection: G1/4"-connections
Sound level: approx. 21-35 dBA
Dimensions L x W x H: 115 x 100 x 80 mm
DC-voltage converter L x W x H: 118 x 75 x 60 mm
Weight: ca. 720g
...............................................................
I wanted to include an Apogee block and Danger Den pump but they were out of stock, same with a thermochill triple rad. i'll also create my own radbox if i need one at all for my case

Is this setup good, im looking for an expert opinion?

also, if i just ordered the listed items, will i be able to connect it all together. Or will i have to buy seperate Barbs, hose clips and such. From my checking it should all comply to 3/8", but id like a reassuring verification that it will all fit together, as im new to this whole thing and am looking forward to getting into it, and dont want to make a mistake

I make no claims of being an expert, but I have few thoughts.

The pump head and flow stats are impressive. And if it's really made by OASE, it will probably be pretty reliable. You cant tell much about how loud it will be from the numbers, though.

The thing with the BIGTS is that it has a very high fin density. Apparently, the ultra-thin fins used allow it to be fairly unrestrictive anyway, but how big a PITA is it going to be to keep it from clogging up with dust bunnies? HW Labs says on their site they have some wonderful new way of keeping this from happening, but they don't actually say what it is. I wouldn't buy one of these radiators without an answer to this question.

Those fans will be fairly loud. By your choice of radiator, I assume that you're looking for a fairly quiet system. Three Yate Loon D12SL-12's should be enough. If you need more fan than that, there's the D12SM-12 or the relatively untested D14xL-12 140mm fans. The 140mm fans should be very quiet for the air they move, but it remains to be seen how well they perform on a radiator. And of course you'd have to make your own shroud.

No comment on on the Zalman block as I don't know much about it. What prompted you to select it over the Apogee GT, Fuzion, or Storm?

Does Koolance tubing stay clear for a long time or cloud quickly?

Barbs should come with the parts, but make sure they're 3/8". Hose clamps will probably not be included with any of the parts. Be sure you get steel worm drive clamps instead of plastic ones. Here in the States, we used to have to make sure the screw on stainless steel clamps was also stainless, but this doesn't seem to be a problem anymore. I'm not sure how things are over there, though. If you see both "all stainless" and "stainless, get "all".

Here are my suggestions...

D-Tek Fuzion or Swiftech Apogee GT/GTX waterblock
D5/MCP655 pump
Micro_res
7/16"id x 5/8"od tubing on 1/2" barbs
1-2 oz Pentosin (G11) or eqivilent antifreeze w/ 1-2 drops of Aquarium Algaecide
Yate Loon D12SM-12 fans with a Sunbeam Rheobus controller
Swiftech MCR320-QP-K Triple 120mm Radiator

the thing is I think hes trying to order only from www.TheCoolingShop.com and whats in stock there.

KC

Laing D5 Vario pump - "For Use with 1/2" ID Hose"

D-TEK FuZion CPU Block
Barb - Size: 1/2" Barbs

EK-Multioption RES 250mm
Barb - Size: 1/2" Barbs

Black Ice Extreme Radiator 360 (Black)
Barb - Size: 1/2" Barbs

120mm fan x 3

Tygon 3603 1/2" Tubing x 5

Zinc Plated Jubilee/Wormdrive Clip 12mm to 20mm

Smoothy Water Anti Corrosion Liquid Clear 1ltr (UV Invisible Blue)


all from coolercases.co.uk

thoughts?, are all the fittings i need here too?

What are your goals for this rig? Are you looking for maximum thermal performance, minimum noise or little bit of each?

Your second group of parts looks very good. You can go with the D5 pump, or I would suggest the Laing DDC w/ Petra's DDCT-01 Top Combo given that it is about the same price. The DDC is smaller, quieter, and has higher head pressure than the D5.

i'll probably go with this second set up, im after max performance, hence the 1/2" tubing etc. Would this all go together if i bought it, im not missing anything?

is this list complete?

+


ive heard of people using things like engine coolant/anti-freeze in their systems :S, does this yield better performance?

That ought to work.

If that anticorrosive additive you're getting doesn't kill both bacteria and algae you'll need to add something else too. Iodine will kill bacteria, and you can get a tiny bottle of algaecide at any pet shop that will last for years.

What kind of thermal grease/paste/pad are you planning to use?

AS5 - i have a tube of it.


When i build this thing, ive read that your are supposed to construct it outside of the computer and then run it for 12 hours or so to make sure there are no leaks. Once its built and has all the coolant in, is it relatively easy to just fit inside the pc after this is done

LeAd_Poisoning said:

AS5 - i have a tube of it.


When i build this thing, ive read that your are supposed to construct it outside of the computer and then run it for 12 hours or so to make sure there are no leaks. Once its built and has all the coolant in, is it relatively easy to just fit inside the pc after this is done

Click to expand...

It is a good idea especially if it your first time. Sometimes you can not put it together outside of the case and put it inside though. If you can, great! In my case, I was not able to do this because I had tubes running through the chassis. So what I did was remove all my PC components and ran them on my desk for a few days while my W/C parts were in the case with a back up PSU. I tested like this for four days just because I was paranoid and it was my first time. Then when I was content that my loop was leak proof, I put my components back in the case.

--pak

i have an old case and psu i could use as a test shell for the system, i might set it up in there for a day or so and test it for leaks. Then, once built, how could i get it back inside my main system case without dissassembling the system?

Testing with the WC components installed but with everything else unpowered is a good idea because you might loosen or break something while installing it in the case. For your first time, I recommend doing both.

First test outside the case to be sure you've got all the barbs tight (most common reason for leaks). If the tubing goes through the wall of the case, of course, part of the loop is going to be inside. It's very unlikely that the tubing itself will leak, though. Just keep everything else out of the case and be sure that if coolant starts spraying out of a joint something will deflect it before it goes in the computer.

Then install everything and run it for 24 hours with no power to your precious electronics. If you do spring a leak in this phase, you'll have a mess to clean up. But as long as you get your system clean and dry before you power it up, the magic smoke will stay inside.

ok, i mite be able to construct it and rest it outside of the system, only having a section of pipe actually passing through the case at the time. From here i could place it inside later

Do i need a T-piece or any additional connectors, or is that only necessary when i add an additional block to the system?

Ah good point!

You've got the res, hence you don't need a T to fill. But you might want a T and some sort of valve for a drain. It's a good idea to figure out how to drain the system before you fill it.

You probably won't use T's or Y's when adding blocks, they go in series, hence all you need is some tubing and the barbs on the new block. The only common exception to this is two graphics card blocks in parallel.

Laing D5 Vario pump - "For Use with 1/2" ID Hose"

D-TEK FuZion CPU Block
Barb - Size: 1/2" Barbs

EK-Multioption RES 250mm
Barb - Size: 1/2" Barbs

Black Ice Extreme Radiator 360 (Black)
Barb - Size: 1/2" Barbs

120mm fan x 3

Tygon 3603 1/2" Tubing x 9

Zinc Plated Jubilee/Wormdrive Clip 12mm to 20mm

Danger Den High Flow T - Fitting with 1/2" high flow barbs

Zalman G-200 Coolant 500ml

All ordered, totalling £250(roughly $500US). I'll add a GPU block to the loop later, i dont really need one atm as the GTO stock cooler is more than capable to meet my clocks

Have fun with the build. BTW, be sure to prime your pump before you turn it on. Laing's pumps will tear themselves up pretty quickly if run dry.

thanks for the tip, thanks Otter and KillerCanadian for the great help on this project, it looks like ive got some good bits and i'll enjoy building it when it comes tomorow

Enjoy L_P.