View Full Version : Water Cooling Component Order?
redheelerdog
12-09-01, 10:34 AM
Howdy,
Which would be the best component order based on your guys experience?
(Pump/Reservior)----->(Water Block)-----(Radiator/Fan)----->(Pump/Reservior)
-or-
(Pump/Reservior)----->(Radiator/Fan)-----(Water Block)----->(Pump/Reservior)
My Parts from Aquastealth/Be Cooling:
-Ragged Edge Water Block
-Single Pass Radiator
-120mm Panaflow Fan
-MaxiJet-1000-265gph Pump
-Approx 1/2 Gallon Reservior
Pardon my ignorance on this but I was hoping I could get some advice from the pros. :D
Thanks,
-RHD
Most I've seen and read about swear it's number two. pump to radiator to waterblock. The water would be at it's coolest exiting the radiator, so this should be as short as possible into the waterblock.
And by the way, it works for me too.
ButcherUK
12-09-01, 12:20 PM
(Pump/Reservior)----->(Radiator/Fan)-----(Water Block)----->(Pump/Reservior)
is better, no point warming the cool rad water with the pump before it gets to the cpu.
Voodoo Rufus
12-09-01, 01:20 PM
It depends if the pump is submerged or not. If it is, then go to the rad first. If it isn't, go to the waterblock first.
ButcherUK
12-09-01, 01:27 PM
Originally posted by Voodoo Rufus
It depends if the pump is submerged or not. If it is, then go to the rad first. If it isn't, go to the waterblock first.
What's the advantage of going w/b first if it's inline. Inline pumps still add heat so the rad should always be first.
Voodoo Rufus
12-09-01, 06:59 PM
You will get higher pressure in the waterblock if the pump is before the waterblock. Am I wrong? I'm not sure.
ButcherUK
12-09-01, 11:04 PM
The important thing for waterblocks is flow rate rather than pressure. Flow rate is unaffected by component order so it makes no difference which way you run it from that perspective.
riprock
12-09-01, 11:54 PM
What if you're using pelts? Would that matter?
I would rather run cooler water through my pump with the thought that hotter water would reduce the life of the pump (?). There's nothing on my Eheim or in the instructions stating the highest temp water you should run through it. So if the eheim can stand the heat, then rad to block would be better. How hot would the water be using dual pelts with the 1800XP at, oh, say... 1800Mhz??? :)
I'm planning on using two 120w pelts and an 1800XP OCed as far as it'll go. Maze2-2. Eheim 1048. Silicone tubing. PVC tee resevoir.
Dunno what mobo I'll have. Leaning towards Soyo D+.
Originally posted by riprock
What if you're using pelts? Would that matter?
I would rather run cooler water through my pump with the thought that hotter water would reduce the life of the pump (?). There's nothing on my Eheim or in the instructions stating the highest temp water you should run through it. So if the eheim can stand the heat, then rad to block would be better. How hot would the water be using dual pelts with the 1800XP at, oh, say... 1800Mhz??? :)
I'm planning on using two 120w pelts and an 1800XP OCed as far as it'll go. Maze2-2. Eheim 1048. Silicone tubing. PVC tee resevoir.
Dunno what mobo I'll have. Leaning towards Soyo D+.
For a 400w producing dual 120w Peltier set-up the water will be 1.2c* hotter after the waterblock with a 1.25gpm flow.
* Using Billa's "assuming a 100W "load", and a 1.25gpm flow
the coolant temp rise WILL be just at 0.3^C " from : http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=276693
ButcherUK
12-10-01, 07:12 AM
Originally posted by riprock
What if you're using pelts? Would that matter?
I would rather run cooler water through my pump with the thought that hotter water would reduce the life of the pump (?). There's nothing on my Eheim or in the instructions stating the highest temp water you should run through it.
Your pump can stand extra heat better than your CPU, you can rest assured of that :)
Samurai_Punch
12-11-01, 12:11 PM
Diggr that's a nice looking reservoir you got going w/ the vortex. What'd you use to make it and how?
I used a 3.25" piece of cast acrylic. The three flat pieces are plexiglass. Three 'cause there's two bottoms. The inner bottom is 1.25" up inside the bottom of the tube. It has a 3/4" hole in it, and the inlet to the pump is between the two bottoms. A pain to make, but it looks much nicer than puting a big elbow on the pump inlet.
So the pump effectively draws from the center of the bottom, and the line from the waterblocks goes into the top off-center (tangental) giving the water a spin against the wall of the tube.
The frame around it is made with aluminum flashing epoxied together and painted to match the case. It extends flush to the matching hole in the door...no plexi window. The tube is the window.
It looks cool with the blue neon behind it, and the temps are the same with or without the vortex.
I'm trying to bleach the tank now. The epoxy I used absorbed the green dye in the antifreeze, as you can see it looks like a line of algae on the inner bottom.
diggrr: I just gotta say that that looks soo awesome. did you come up with that idea yourself? You did one hell of a job.
http://www.exploratorium.edu/imagery/stills/Vortex.jpg
I ran into this researching vortex tubes for computer cooling. It's an exhibition at a children's museum. There are no particulars as to it's construction, so I had to sit and think a while on how to do it. I'm so glad I got it right the first time. I only had 2ft of the cast acrylic, and that stuff is $75-$80 bucks sold in 6ft sections only. It was the secondary coil form out my tesla coil, so I had to remove the magnet wire that was wound on it.
Besides, I have a new Big coil to think about...I just got a pole transformer. (10kva)!
ButcherUK
12-11-01, 11:41 PM
Time to find some acrylic tube... :D
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