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e6300 temp help

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killuazaoldyeck

killuazaoldyeck

Member
​
Joined
Apr 14, 2007
Location
So-Cal
im newbie about oc, i have a big problem,. the temp of my e6300 is 41c(idle) already, no oc yet.:confused: hope you can help me guys! pls. tnx
 
i checked my kit sir otter, everything is fine. do you think power supply is connected to my problem? cuz im just using 450v (no brand) power supply.
 
No, if your PSU was not up to the job, you'd be getting blue screens instead of high temps. If you've covered the obvious things (trapped air, a bad mount, oils on the CPU or block, kinked hoses, marbles in the pump inlet, etc.), you'd better give as much detail as possible about your setup.

The "Thermaltake Big Water SE" in your sig raises a flag. None of the parts in that kit are particularly good, but it ought to do at least as well as the stock heat sink and fan.

I'm told the pump Thermaltake ships is fairly weak, and if your chipset block is very restrictive, that might account for some of the problem. You could try taking the chipset block out of the loop -- I honestly don't think that's it, though.

Post lots of details about what fans you're running, which way they point, how they're mounted, where things are, where air flows in and out of your case, what you're using for coolant, exactly how you mounted the CPU block, etc. If you've got a camera, add some show to your tell. A simple diagram could help too. The more info you give, the more likely it will be that someone will see the problem.
 
3-8c is quite a range. If it's 8c, I'd say your problem is solved. If it's 3c, there's probably something else going on yet. BTW, what's the air temperature there?

In the pics I see a few things you can check.
1)Seems you have a slight kink here:
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/4930/kinkan0.jpg
Try putting a hose clamp around it.

2)Your rad appears to be so close to the wall that air flow might be restricted. Pulling the machine out a bit should help with the kink too.

3)Try getting rid of that flow indicator gizmo.

4)With your rad mounted that way, you'll definitely have to flip the case around to get the air out. You've probably done that already, but if you haven't, that's your main problem.

Of course, a bigger rad, better pump, and a better block would help too. But you don't need a high-end setup to beat the stock sink.
 
i did everything. i also reseat (again) my processor.
i think my kit is not good. or maybe bec. the flow of my water?:bang head

heres the settings of my kit:

water tank --> indicator --> pump --> cpu --> NB --> gpu --> rad --> water tank

im not exactly sure the air temp. i putted 2 80mm and 120mm fan
 
Reverse the fan so that the rad is drawing air in from the back and see what your temps are like with the side of the case off.

The air temperature makes a difference, so look at the thermostat or go buy a cheap thermometer.
 
tnx sir otter., what if im going to buy a new cpu water block? what block is better?

i think my air temp is around 18-30c
 
Hey guys - I bought a Bigwater SE kit too-- I know its not the best but every review seemed to indicate it was better than air cooling.

With a Core2 E6700 (2.66Ghz stock) oc'd to 3.0Ghz:

-with Zalman CNPS-9500 air cooler:
IDLE: 37C/33C for core1/core2
LOAD: 59C/55C for core1/core2

-With Bigwater SE (rad inside, @ front of P180 case, fan between rad and case, taking fresh air in and pushing through rad):
IDLE: 36C/32C for core1/core2
LOAD: 53C/52C for core1/core2

So, either I don't have good contact between waterblock and CPU (thermaltake didn't exactly put a mirror finish on their block), or I've undertightened/overtightened the waterblock's bracket (its hard to tell with these lame screws whether its under/over-tightened!, or perhaps the Zalman 9500 was just already efficient to begin with so water made less difference, OR a combination of all of the above. I did seat the block a second time after the first time the temps were crazy high - I followed instructions for putting a small dot of AS5 in middle of CPU rather than credit-card-applied thin film over whole CPU like old days.

Again, I know that some people will say "what do you expect" for a beginner kit not to mention Thermalcrap, but still.. there's guys claiming 40C under load oc'd to 3.3ghz with a stock Bigwater SE.

Thoughts? I'm thinking for starters to get a better waterblock with a mirror finish, like the D-Tek Fuzion otter mentioned - is there a big diff between the 3/8" and 1/2" version? I know 1/2" = better flow, but does it actually make diff. to temp?
 
Last edited:
odditory said:
With a Core2 E6700 (2.66Ghz stock) oc'd to 3.0Ghz:

-with Zalman CNPS-9500 air cooler:
IDLE: 37C/33C for core1/core2
LOAD: 59C/55C for core1/core2

-With Bigwater SE (rad inside, @ front of P180 case, fan between rad and case, taking fresh air in and pushing through rad):
IDLE: 36C/32C for core1/core2
LOAD: 53C/52C for core1/core2

So, either I don't have good contact between waterblock and CPU (thermaltake didn't exactly put a mirror finish on their block), or I've undertightened/overtightened the waterblock's bracket (its hard to tell with these lame screws whether its under/over-tightened!, or perhaps the Zalman 9500 was just already efficient to begin with so water made less difference, OR a combination of all of the above. I did seat the block a second time after the first time the temps were crazy high - I followed instructions for putting a small dot of AS5 in middle of CPU rather than credit-card-applied thin film over whole CPU like old days.

Again, I know that some people will say "what do you expect" for a beginner kit not to mention Thermalcrap, but still.. there's guys claiming 40C under load oc'd to 3.3ghz with a stock Bigwater SE.
Click to expand...
When comparing temperatures between systems, you run into so many variables that the numbers are only slightly better than wild guesses. If that 40C is a core temp, it's for stock kit, the ambient temp was the same, the same CPU loading utility was used, and you believe the poster, it's worth something. But it's possible you've got everything set up right and you've simply reached the limit of the kit.

Try pressing down on the block while watching the temperature and see if that helps. Remember to ground yourself by touching the PSU screws. :)

is there a big diff between the 3/8" and 1/2" version? I know 1/2" = better flow, but does it actually make diff. to temp?
Click to expand...
The larger barbs and tubing do make a difference. How much difference depends on your pump. If 1/2"ID, 3/4" OD tubing is too bulky for you, 7/16ID, 5/8OD tubing used with 1/2" barbs works as well or perhaps even better than 1/2"ID tubing with standard 1/2" barbs because the ID of the tubing more closely matches the ID of the barbs and hence there is less turbulence.
 
thanks for the replies, guys. Exactly what I *didn't* want to happen has happened: I got my feet wet with a crap "WC in a box" system and now I want more performance.

I say I DIDN'T want to get stuck in the 'wanting more performance' buyer's remorse because I've done WC setups before (i.e. Innovatek system, circa 2002) and wasted SO much time perfecting the loop that the "law of diminishing returns" beat me over the head for weeks throughout. So here I am just having ordered $300-$400 worth of higher-end parts and am going to return my BigWater SE. D-Tek Fuzion/D-Tek Fuzion-GPU on my CPU and 8800GTX, swiftech pump, 1/2" tubing, etc. etc. Ugh.. but you only live once, right? :) Plus I'll be able to use this higher-end WC loop I've ordered for the hot-running QX6700 as soon as the price drops on it in a few days.

Thanks again guys.
 
i bought that cpu block, darn..:bang head same old stuff!:mad: so, getting a big rad is really helpful?do you think getting big rad can solve my problem? what rad? budget is $60 max. tnx
 
Otter said:
3-8c is quite a range. If it's 8c, I'd say your problem is solved. If it's 3c, there's probably something else going on yet. BTW, what's the air temperature there?

In the pics I see a few things you can check.
1)Seems you have a slight kink here:
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/4930/kinkan0.jpg
Try putting a hose clamp around it.

2)Your rad appears to be so close to the wall that air flow might be restricted. Pulling the machine out a bit should help with the kink too.

3)Try getting rid of that flow indicator gizmo.

4)With your rad mounted that way, you'll definitely have to flip the case around to get the air out. You've probably done that already, but if you haven't, that's your main problem.

Of course, a bigger rad, better pump, and a better block would help too. But you don't need a high-end setup to beat the stock sink.
Click to expand...



just want to update.:santa:

http://img170.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1594ph1.jpg
http://img208.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1595ba9.jpg
http://img148.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1596va3.jpg
 
A bigger rad certainly won't hurt, but before you invest in an MCR320
http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-quiet-power-3x120mm-radiator.html
try pulling your current rad off the case. From this angle, I think I see what your problem is.
http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/1535/airwaycloseuv0.jpg
Those little holes in the back of the case are much too restrictive, and snugging that Thermaltake monstrosity up to them only makes it worse. I think you'll see a dramatic improvement if you just unbolt the rad and position it so nothing restricts the air flow on either side.

You can also try removing this gizmo if that isn't enough, but really, I think the back panel of your case is what's killing your system.
http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/1812/gizmoclosekt0.jpg
 
Last edited:
Well, if you want this to work, you need to either move the rad or cut out the back panel. A radiator cools by transferring heat to the air. If very little air flows through it, it will provide very little cooling. That's why your idle temps are so high.

I'm sure there's a way to demonstrate this with the tubing you've got, but if not, go to the hardware store and get some cheap vinyl tubing. Don't worry about a permanent mount yet, just find a way to position the rad temporarily where its air flow is not restricted. This should get your cooling system working well enough that you can find out what your load temps are without melting down the CPU. :)
 
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