- Joined
- Apr 30, 2004
Ah yes, thats right, I'm going to bankrupt and possibly maim myself once again. Water is a hell of a drug. The last rig was such a great learning experience, I really feel like I cut my teeth on it and now having that experience, I am ready to get professional, to get hardcore. Despite this, the new setup I'm playing around with is not all that different, you can definitely see the evolution of similar preferences and ideas about how one should watercool when you compare them. With this one I am yet again going for a good OC, not an extreme one. Once again I am rabid about noise, and want this thing to be at least as quiet as my first, if not moreso. (Take into account that the amount of fans I'm thinking about makes my first build seem stagnant.)
Ok, well enough pontificating, here is my idea:
A lot of explanation is unnecessary, I've been tinkering with this little image for the past week or so, shifting things around. I have already ordered the blocks, the rad, and the tubing. They will be here today actually.
The case is of course a Lian Li PC-G70, which brings my total love affair with Lian Li to its full intensity. The case is expensive, but I figure that with a full tower, it will last for many many more builds to come.
The fans (6 on rad, one rear intake, one front intake, one side intake, and maybe one upper frontal intake) are all 120mm Yate Loons in orange .
I am pretty confident that this is a realistic projection, and it certainly follows the same sort of inclination that my first built exhibits, but due to the size and my increased budget with this one, I can really go nuts. Specific areas where I would really value some input follow.
First off, the major element that could really screw the entire thing is the height of the fan-shroud-rad-shroud-fan complex. I am worried that it might once again come dangerously close to the mobo, if it even will fit. I have looked at the dimensions and it looks like 1/4 of the total height of the case is that vertical space between the roof and the start of the motherboard mounting holes. The case is 595mm tall, making the window 148mm, but I would like to go with 140mm just to be safe. So lets tally, thats 50mm for the fans, 29mm for the rad, and 76mm for the two shrouds, if they are to be 1.5". Unfortunately this is 155mm. If I make 1" shrouds however, thats 50mm for both and 129mm, well under the estimated window. My mind wanders with ideas of having a 1.5" pushing shroud and a 1/2" pulling, or extending them 11mm more just to the limit. Still, these numbers are all based on me taking that image and drawing lines, so if anyone with a G70 would be willing to help out on this one, that would be great.
Other aspects of the loop that I want input on are the Y splitter, and the fillport, as well as what to do in that upper left quadrant of the case. The metal housing for the PSU I am unsure about. I have seen pictures where it seems to be affixed with rivets, but I have also seen rigs with that plate very neatly removed, which leads me to believe that in true Lian Li fashion, it is removable. I think the grommets are pointless then, because that plate will come out, whether it be dremeled or slid. The use of a Y instead of a T gives me uneasiness. If the Y is positioned such that the angle going into the rad and up the Y-line rolleyes are equal, I wonder about bleeding and the ability of bubbles to find their way up there. It makes me think that I should reverse the current flow of the loop, so that the aerated water is traveling up through the Y, it seems like bubbles would be more inclined to travel the Y-line rather than zoom around. Thoughts?
Another thing that really isn't related to WC, is this 5.25" bay 120 I've been bouncing around in my head. This time I really want to be super professional, and make a box that is hardcore, done with functionality, but with a mind for form and sort of a harmony to it. Yeah I know beauty wont get me 3.8Ghz, but its really something I want to do. How this relates to the bay intake is my thoughts about what effrontery might replace the standard bay covers. I don't think cutting the bay covers themselves and welding them together would be a good idea, both from the standpoint of stability, and from the aesthetic, having those awkward lines halfway through the fan. I especially would like to see suggestions here because its something I've never done. I have been considering a similarly grained aluminum piece, primed and painted black to match the case, a vertical rectangle with the fan holes in it, and a cowling that extends into the case. This piece would then affix itself using HD screws through that cowling. I worry about being able to replicate the quality of Lian Li, and further worry about resonance from the fan. I suppose if I go ahead and do that, I could use some extra plating for the top PSU backing.
Yate's are quiet fans, and I certainly will be under-volting them, but there are a lot of them, and on the quiet front I wanna play around with lining the entire inside exposed surface. I wouldn't buy that expensive stuff from modders sites, but rather go and get the ribbed acoustic matting, and I'm thinking it would be best to affix adhesive Velcro pads to each individual piece of mat.
Finally, what are your thoughts on bolting the pump vertically to the mobo tray. I figure it could simply be unscrewed to draw the ray out when draining or meddling. Should I simply punch some mobo mounting holes and use the Lian Li hole brackets to provide a threaded contact point. In my mind that option allows for more heat dissipation, as well as the space to put some absorption matting under the pump.
Thats about the extent of my current thinking, I will be ordering the case in the next few days, and as I said the loop components are arriving today. I hope this plan piques your interest and generates some discussion.
GO.
Ok, well enough pontificating, here is my idea:
A lot of explanation is unnecessary, I've been tinkering with this little image for the past week or so, shifting things around. I have already ordered the blocks, the rad, and the tubing. They will be here today actually.
The case is of course a Lian Li PC-G70, which brings my total love affair with Lian Li to its full intensity. The case is expensive, but I figure that with a full tower, it will last for many many more builds to come.
The fans (6 on rad, one rear intake, one front intake, one side intake, and maybe one upper frontal intake) are all 120mm Yate Loons in orange .
I am pretty confident that this is a realistic projection, and it certainly follows the same sort of inclination that my first built exhibits, but due to the size and my increased budget with this one, I can really go nuts. Specific areas where I would really value some input follow.
First off, the major element that could really screw the entire thing is the height of the fan-shroud-rad-shroud-fan complex. I am worried that it might once again come dangerously close to the mobo, if it even will fit. I have looked at the dimensions and it looks like 1/4 of the total height of the case is that vertical space between the roof and the start of the motherboard mounting holes. The case is 595mm tall, making the window 148mm, but I would like to go with 140mm just to be safe. So lets tally, thats 50mm for the fans, 29mm for the rad, and 76mm for the two shrouds, if they are to be 1.5". Unfortunately this is 155mm. If I make 1" shrouds however, thats 50mm for both and 129mm, well under the estimated window. My mind wanders with ideas of having a 1.5" pushing shroud and a 1/2" pulling, or extending them 11mm more just to the limit. Still, these numbers are all based on me taking that image and drawing lines, so if anyone with a G70 would be willing to help out on this one, that would be great.
Other aspects of the loop that I want input on are the Y splitter, and the fillport, as well as what to do in that upper left quadrant of the case. The metal housing for the PSU I am unsure about. I have seen pictures where it seems to be affixed with rivets, but I have also seen rigs with that plate very neatly removed, which leads me to believe that in true Lian Li fashion, it is removable. I think the grommets are pointless then, because that plate will come out, whether it be dremeled or slid. The use of a Y instead of a T gives me uneasiness. If the Y is positioned such that the angle going into the rad and up the Y-line rolleyes are equal, I wonder about bleeding and the ability of bubbles to find their way up there. It makes me think that I should reverse the current flow of the loop, so that the aerated water is traveling up through the Y, it seems like bubbles would be more inclined to travel the Y-line rather than zoom around. Thoughts?
Another thing that really isn't related to WC, is this 5.25" bay 120 I've been bouncing around in my head. This time I really want to be super professional, and make a box that is hardcore, done with functionality, but with a mind for form and sort of a harmony to it. Yeah I know beauty wont get me 3.8Ghz, but its really something I want to do. How this relates to the bay intake is my thoughts about what effrontery might replace the standard bay covers. I don't think cutting the bay covers themselves and welding them together would be a good idea, both from the standpoint of stability, and from the aesthetic, having those awkward lines halfway through the fan. I especially would like to see suggestions here because its something I've never done. I have been considering a similarly grained aluminum piece, primed and painted black to match the case, a vertical rectangle with the fan holes in it, and a cowling that extends into the case. This piece would then affix itself using HD screws through that cowling. I worry about being able to replicate the quality of Lian Li, and further worry about resonance from the fan. I suppose if I go ahead and do that, I could use some extra plating for the top PSU backing.
Yate's are quiet fans, and I certainly will be under-volting them, but there are a lot of them, and on the quiet front I wanna play around with lining the entire inside exposed surface. I wouldn't buy that expensive stuff from modders sites, but rather go and get the ribbed acoustic matting, and I'm thinking it would be best to affix adhesive Velcro pads to each individual piece of mat.
Finally, what are your thoughts on bolting the pump vertically to the mobo tray. I figure it could simply be unscrewed to draw the ray out when draining or meddling. Should I simply punch some mobo mounting holes and use the Lian Li hole brackets to provide a threaded contact point. In my mind that option allows for more heat dissipation, as well as the space to put some absorption matting under the pump.
Thats about the extent of my current thinking, I will be ordering the case in the next few days, and as I said the loop components are arriving today. I hope this plan piques your interest and generates some discussion.
GO.