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Pop can water blocks

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SuperCross

Registered
Joined
Apr 18, 2007
Location
Yakima,Washington
Im building a DIY Water cooling setup( I've got no money to spend) and i saw the Pop Can water block on OverClockers.com and i need to know if anyone has tried making one or is using one because i dont want to waste time on something that doesn't work. any answers would be appreciated:)
 
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The pop can waterblock was a great idea for building a cheap block, but it mixes aluminum and copper, which will eventually lead to galvanic corrosion and possible failure of the water containment.
You have to give JFettig mad credit for thinking outside the box though.

You'd better serve yourself with a copper cap waterblock like Owenator built. You can search here or on the overclockers.com projects page.
http://www.overclockers.com/topiclist/index31.asp#WATER COOLING ...dozens of projects here.

BTW, don't expect temperature performance on-par with the modern blocks (they're built for cpu's with a much lower wattage of yesteryear)...but it's a nice place to start with a decently easy and cheap to build solution.

My first waterblock (DIY or otherwise) was the PVC cap block built on bunker mentality's website by Tim Whitaker. I believe it was also outlined later on a front page article.
It worked well, and never failed to cool until cpu's began crossing the 60-80 watt threshold.
http://www.overclockers.com/tips111/ ...I replaced the peltier chip with a copper plate.
In the plate I drilled several small holes and soldered in some loops of 12 gage copper wire to add some heat transfer that a simple flat plate lacks.

:welcome: to the Forums!
 
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Seriously i think you're better off with used waterblocks. You can get some very decent blocks for only $20. Thats much worth the time and effort to make one (materials along would cost almost $20)
 
my problem is that i have not been able to fin a waterblock that will fit P1,P2,P3 Cpu's slot. but i dont want to try water cooling my newest computer be cause i dont want to have somthing go wrong and kill my computer like i have done befor i put too much strain on the PSU and some wires melted and the computer caught fire.
 
SuperCross said:
my problem is that i have not been able to fin a waterblock that will fit P1,P2,P3 Cpu's slot. but i dont want to try water cooling my newest computer be cause i dont want to have somthing go wrong and kill my computer like i have done befor i put too much strain on the PSU and some wires melted and the computer caught fire.

As long as you take your time and think everything out, you won't really hurt anything.
 
Well, i know this is not what you wanna hear, but if you dont have the money to replace things, you probably shouldnt touch watercooling.
As safe as we all claim it to be when you take the proper precautions and time, there is ALWAYS a chance to kill somthing and you really do need to be prepared for that.
Ive had a pump that ran for months devlope a bad seal and take a motherboard out in the process.

As for the celeron D cpu, anything that is LGA 775 will work. a TDX, Apogee GT and even a Used whitewater will work with the right top.
 
ive got just enough money for a waterblock a rad and some tubing i alrady have the fans and a pump and 12' of cheap hardware store plastic tubing when i said i have "no money" i mean im trying to spend as little as poible to do a proff of concept that it dosent take much money to water cool ~sub $100 i have spent about $10 for the pump and tubing
 
I've built both the copper cap and the soda can block and the copper cap block is a better/easier to build block.
 
Also try your local True Value. My local one is superior to Lowe's, Home Depot, or any other store in my area when it comes to computer mod/waterblock parts.
 
If all else fails in your hunt, you can split a piece of 3/4" - 1" copper tubing to get the copper you need to work with.
The schedule M is 3mm wall thickness I believe, which is perfect for both base and top.
Lately I've been using the 2" copper couplers for my plates as it's very thick compared to the pipe...cheaper too.

Heat it with a torch (or stove burner for 10 minutes) and dunk it in cold water makes it much softer for hammer-shaping.
I found that using a putty knife to cover the copper when hammering it flat will prevent hammer dents that you have to sand flat later.
I use pieces of copper tubing for my hose barbs. I solder on a brass ferrule (aka crimp ring, compression ring) to act as the barb for a leak free tubing seal.

And like I said, they won't beat the current top of the line blocks by any means, but it's a fun project and a good start.

*One more thing to add. You can e-mail watercooling sites to see if they have any scratch and dent blocks for sale. That's how I got my current block for $10, but I did have to make a top for it...not a highly technical challenge.
 
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