I next in line for help

[sick]

My cpu is way too hot for my liking. I'm runing a 1.33 atholon NOT OVER CLOCKED, with arctic silver, and sk6 with the delta fan that came with. my cpu temps are 42c idel 46 full load (if not full pretty close to it, I was doing digital video imaging when it hit that temp) here is a pic. I have on fan you can't see, it's on the case cover

[sick]

aby ideas on how to get my temp lower? also whats a goo replacemnet for my delta. the noise is causing deffness in my right ear

[Diggrr]

Ducting one of the three fans to the cpu would help. Probably allow you to turn down that delta too.

[jbslow]

Originally posted by sick
aby ideas on how to get my temp lower? also whats a goo replacemnet for my delta. the noise is causing deffness in my right ear

Turn the fan around so it blows air into the heatsink.

[dugans]

What are the ambient and case temps?

I have had good luck with ducts when I can't get case temps down for some reason: case temp of 30c and a duct may help.

[Sonny]

Originally posted by jbslow
Turn the fan around so it blows air into the heatsink. Great spot on the reversed fan:beer:

sick - The SK6 is was not designed with the idea of a fan sucking air from it but blowing into the fins. With a dense configuration of fins you are at a big loss with the way the fan is set up.

[Tiger]

Just looking at your pic you have 3 fans exhausting around the heat sink. Each one of those is drawing air in opposition to the HSF. I would place a duct around the heat sink fan and then use another fan (or one of those exhaust fans on the back) drawing external air into the duct to supply ambient air to the HSF. The duct would protect the heat sink fan from competition and also give it cold air instead of warm air. It worked for me with that combo.

[sick]

I tryed reversing the Delta on the HS and my cpu temps droped 2 degress :) . Now about these ducts. Are you talking about the things that direct air flow? is so where could I buy one?

[sick]

oh yeah my case temps seem to be pretty good. they're 28c

[Tiger]

Originally posted by sick
I tryed reversing the Delta on the HS and my cpu temps droped 2 degress :) . Now about these ducts. Are you talking about the things that direct air flow? is so where could I buy one?
Made my own out of card but you should try to make them as straight as possible. Have seen concertina type ducting in plumbers hardware supply outlets.

[sick]

well now i am frusterated. I change the back two out take fans to in take fans and it raise my cpu temp by a half of a degrees! It doesn't seem to be making sence:confused:

[jbslow]

Originally posted by sick
well now i am frusterated. I change the back two out take fans to in take fans and it raise my cpu temp by a half of a degrees! It doesn't seem to be making sence:confused:

I've tried that too and it never helped me one bit some people get good results though. As long as you have alot of air intake you should be fine. If you want to avoid buying more or better fans you should make a duct and run it from the hsf to a hole in the side of your case. You could also remove one on the outtake fans and run a duct from that hole to your hsf. It would have to bend , the kind of tubing on the back of a dryer would work well but it would need to b smaller then the dryer tube (aluminum tubing).

[sick]

okay guys. I think I figured it out. I was thinking today about what I read on arctic silver, the part about your temps dropping about 2 degress after a day or two when using arctic silver, well that never happened and I've been running my cpu for about four days now. So I took everything apart and found I had almost no thermal glue between my cpu and hsf. I continued and clean everything off and found the part of my die serial number was tatooed on my sk6. It looked like it burned it self in there. So I realpplyed the thermal gule, this time a lot thicker, and put everything back together. My cpu temp is now about 38.5c. so it was a stupid newbie mistake. So thank you everyone for you help, and hopefully after chistmas I will be hitting the 33c area

[ButcherUK]

Having the serial number "tattooed" into the hsf base is a good thing, you don't want a thick layer, you're filling the gaps not making a sandwich ;)
If you get better results from a thicker layer you might want to lap your heatsink base flat as that indicates the gap is larger than it could be.

[dugans]

Originally posted by ButcherUK
Having the serial number "tattooed" into the hsf base is a good thing, you don't want a thick layer, you're filling the gaps not making a sandwich ;)
If you get better results from a thicker layer you might want to lap your heatsink base flat as that indicates the gap is larger than it could be.

I have seen differing opinions on how far you should go with lapping: some say to get a mirror finish and other feel that a mirror is too much.

I have been experimenting to see what works best for me and lapping makes a BIG difference for me. I originally did a fine but NOT mirror finish and saw a pretty good drop in temps. I have since gotten some 1000 grit paper and improved my results, but still don't get a shiny "mirror." I am going to try an auto body supply store to get some 1500 grit, and/or better and see if the mirror finish helps more.

Either way, lapping makes a difference and all my sinks now have that little imprint "burned in"
Good luck!

[AntmanMike]

First of all, it isn't "Thermal Glue". If you think thats what it is, You are probably using Arctic Silver Adhesive. Note: DO NOT USE ADHESIVE ON CPU's!!!. You also are supposed to apply a THIN layer to the CPU. Just enough to cover the core. Go out and buy some Arctic Silver 2 or Arctic Alumina COMPOUND. and by ducting, you can just make it out of cardboard. I always duct a fan from the front of the case to the Graphics card, and another intake fan directly to my heatsink on the CPU, which the fan is pointing down, then i have a duct blowing the air from the Graphics Card and the CPU out.

Below are my great ASCII skills.


|-----------------------------------|
| |
| |
| |
| |
| HSF====IN |
| [] |
|OUT [] |
| [] [] |
| []===[]=[] |
|_______ [] |
| []====[]==[] |
| []=====[] []======IN|
|______________________|

AHH MY PRIZE DRAWING IS RUINED!!!!!!

[ButcherUK]

The mirror finish of lapping is a lot less important than making sure the base of the heatsink is flat on the base. A lot of heatsinks aren't all that flat on the bottom. Having it mirrored does at least allow you to see if it's flat by checking if the reflection is distorted ;)

[sick]

so sue me I just called it the wrong thing. I am using arctic silver 2

[sick]

I'm not so great at sanding and I don't want to have to buy another hs, any tips. All I know is I use to get burn marks on the wood I used sand in shop class. I guess I was pressing too hard :D

[ButcherUK]

Use a sheet of glass (mirror is good). Start with some fairly coarse grit paper (240 ish) and wet sand the heatsink base against the glass. Move the heatsink not the paper+glass. You should see scuffs on the base of the heatsink, these should uniformly cover it, if there is an area that is still machined smooth keep sanding till it's uniform, uniform means flat. Once that is done move up to a higher grit (say 400) and lap till all the coarser lapping marks are gone. Repeat to your highest grit. I normally go 240, 400, 600, 800, 1200, 1500.after 1500 the surface should be shiny and somewhat mirrored. If you want a good mirror finish use some metal polishing compound (not a wax) and a soft cloth. Polishing doesn't really add much to cooling but it makes it look nice ;)
You want to use silicon carbide wet sanding paper.

[Sonny]

Here is my idea for a duct. A lot of people will disagree with the velocity stack but I assure you it works. This is a design that cleans out the airflow from the fan & straightens it out. You can also use this to concentrate the airflow from a bigger fan to a smaller area with minimal or no loss of pressure. Before anyone else tells you that it does not work or the theory is wrong:rolleyes: just be openminded with it & be assured that the High Performance Car Industry believes in the design:cool:

[Sonny]

Here is another pic. It's a 80mm fan with a velocity stack made from a plastic cola bottle:D

[sick]

where did you get the material to make this and how did you attach the fan? would something like a 1 or 2 LT coke bottle work for something like this?

[Diggrr]

Cool, I bet the slots at the fan mount end add to the airflow too.
Kinda like those air blast tips with the holes on the side. Just plug them once, and the airflow goes way down. You just might be getting more cfm than the fan alone would...just maybe.

[Sonny]

FINALLY!!!!! Some positive feedback:D

sick - It's from a 2ltr coke bottle with extra tabs so that you can screw it on the fan directly without having to add anymore material.

Diggrr - If you make one that reduces the 80mm to 60mm you will not get more CFM or pressure but you will be able to maintain it or minimize loss to a negligable amount.

[Diggrr]

Yup. And pushing the air inward, then letting it expand would make a more cohesive air column. The reason blowers beat axial fans.

To illustrate, my 100cfm blower can be felt across the room. It blows around the christmas cards 16ft away. My panaflo 120mm won't touch that.

[Sonny]

Diggrr - Yup. Totally correct:beer:

sick - The pic has the details on how to attach it to the fan. Enjoy:beer:

[Sonny]

Originally posted by Diggrr
Yup. And pushing the air inward, then letting it expand would make a more cohesive air column. The reason blowers beat axial fans.How small/big is the 100CFM Centrifugal Blower that you have?

[Diggrr]

It's bigger than my waterpump. Danner supreme 250gph. I couldn't fit it into the case, but I haven't given up! It takes 4.5 amps, and blows insanely fast/noisy. It does get quieter at 5 volts though.

It's item number 2059K16 at www.mcmaster.com Use the search in the left pane.

Click "catalog page" to see it. It's the flangemount about 3/4 down the page.

[Sonny]

Thanks Diggrr:beer: Now if I can find a way to mount it in my case....