CPU Cooling question....

Alright guys here is my setup...

Swiftech Radiator - MCR320 Quiet Power Series Triple 120 mm - Black
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=200&products_id=4309
Swiftech MCRES-MICRO™ Reservoir
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=318&products_id=3615
Swiftech MCP655™ 12 VDC Pump
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=201&products_id=3112
wiftech APOGEE GT Extreme Performance Universal Water-block
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=199&products_id=21159
wiftech MCW60™ Graphics Card Liquid Cooler with MC14 BGA Ramsinks
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=240&products_id=4087

Alrighty then got that out of the way. My config from the pump is... Pump, rad, CPU, GPU, Res, Pump.

Now I have a question. I don't know what it is but shouldn't the CPU be running cooler then when I had it on air? I mean I don't mind it being the same temp, prefered if it was cooler but just seems warm to me.

Idle temp is slightly cooler but load temp is same or slightly warmer. Do you think its just a bad mount? I tried tighting the top bolts but that didn't seem to work and really with the mobo in the case now, its one hell of a PITA to get to the rear screws on the back of the board. Anyways wanted to know what you guys thoughts and results where on this thanks.

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so you've installed all that and your CPU is warmer than when it was on air?

if thats the case then, yes, there is something wrong (IMO)

what fans are you using?


id try a few remounts first.
mount screws (solid) to your mobo for easy mounting/remounting of the block
[screwhead>washer>mobo>washer>nut] ---------- [WB>washer>wingnut/thumbscrew]


if you tear it all down, disassemble the apogee and check for copper shavings in the "fins".
check for copper shavings in all other parts (pump, VGA WB, rad)


GOOD LUCK!!


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yes but your HD 2900 is like 30c cooler, maybe thats all the config can take.
dunno water cooling retard here lol

thinking about making the leap myself

Rattle said:

yes but your HD 2900 is like 30c cooler, maybe thats all the config can take.

Click to expand...

thought about that too...

but i think a 3x rad (even if its not a "thick" one) should be able to handle both, depending on the fans...and the air...

are you configured to draw "cool" outside air through the rad or "warm" case air?

Its warm air through the case using 3x Scythe S-FLEX fans

Lets put it this way the CPU is warmer then the GPU under load so there must be something up. I figured I'd try the remount and see if that works since im defiantly not thrilled to spend another day plus totally dismantling the system and then trying to reassemble it. *crosses fingers* Please let the mobo come out enough to get a screw driver behind it.

And the GPU is running 46C under a high OC on my 2900XT!. CPU at 3.6Ghz is 54-57C. There has to be something odd since the GPU is getting the water after the CPU as well.

We definitely need pictures! lol

Yup I'll have pics heres shortly I just need to startup the machine to offload them from the camera.

The pics where taken yesterday right as I was finishing installation of mainly the power cables. But the system hasn't changed layout since then.

deathman20 said:

Its warm air through the case using 3x Scythe S-FLEX fans

Click to expand...

Fan Stats Link
if your not using the 1600 RPM ones, you might want to consider push/pull.
LOW speed 25mm fans have such low preasure...

on the other hand, your GPU temps sound good so ... this points back to bad CPU mount


EDIT:


you could easily "rig" some ghetto fans on top to see if added air-flow would help


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Joe Camel said:

Fan Stats Link
if your not using the 1600 RPM ones, you might want to consider push/pull.
LOW speed 25mm fans have such low preasure...

on the other hand, your GPU temps look good so ... this points back to bad CPU mount


EDIT:


you could easily "rig" some ghetto fans on top to see if added air-flow would help


.

Click to expand...

Oh there high speed ones. They cool very nice IMO and are decently quiet even at full speed.

As for adding fans to the top na. I can't even add a fan in the back of the case Dang barb. Anyways on the top of the case I still have to cut the plastic top and im finishing it off with a black aluminum grill so the cats don't step on it. I'm having it for a look of nearly clean outside where it doesn't look like I did much, except you'll notice the top for sure but anyways thats what I was going for.

Yeah think im about to rip out the mobo and see what can be done. I just hate to remove the whole setup thats definatly not my idea of cool, and don't think my hands can take it for a while since they hurt so bad from leak testing pulling off lines and fixing barb placements.

right on

tip:
use a hair dryer to warm the tube for easy barb insertion (and dont forget to "prison lube" the barb too )


its worth the time to hard mount the screws to your mobo makes for easy and "fast" remounts or WB swaps

Joe Camel said:

right on

tip:
use a hair dryer to warm the tube for easy barb insertion (and dont forget to "prison lube" the barb too )


its worth the time to hard mount the screws to your mobo makes for easy and "fast" remounts or WB swaps

Click to expand...

Well I had the lock nut washers and such on there originally thats why I wonder what is up with that. I'd use my old Ultra-120 backing but im selling that to a friend. That would make it LOADS easier.

Yeah I didn't think about using the hair dryer. Getting them on wasn't the issue it was getting them off. But at least the ones on the rad where easier since i bought thouse myself and didn't seem to have as big of a lip on them.

Those temps are kinda high for the quality parts that you have. I would double and tripple check the mounting if you haven't already. If that is known good, how long has that setup been running? Are you 100% sure there are no air bubbles in there? I had my radiator mounted a simmilar way and for me to get ALL the air out, I had to pick my case up and tilt it so the air bubbles would come out of the rad. I did this several times after a few hours of running the loop. With the rad in that position, air bubbles get trapped in there easily.

See if any of that helps.

--pak

MAn have fun cutting that top plastic piece.... PITA! It is dense for plastic....


I like how you took it off though, I cut through the plastic and metal all at once on my P180....

pak said:

Those temps are kinda high for the quality parts that you have. I would double and tripple check the mounting if you haven't already. If that is known good, how long has that setup been running? Are you 100% sure there are no air bubbles in there? I had my radiator mounted a simmilar way and for me to get ALL the air out, I had to pick my case up and tilt it so the air bubbles would come out of the rad. I did this several times after a few hours of running the loop. With the rad in that position, air bubbles get trapped in there easily.

See if any of that helps.

--pak

Click to expand...

Yeah I did flip it a few times. Mainly when it was out of the case I was moving things around to get teh air bubbles to the rad. What fun that was wahoo.

But the thing is the GPUs temp is great its the CPU's so its a mounting issue or something else hmm. Anyways I've basically gutted my whole system currently and going to check the water block, I'll open it up and double check. Besides gives me a chance to recut some tubing a little longer to the CPU block and a less twisted maybe even shorter to the GPU block. Oh well was hoping it would of went smooth, and it ran which is a huge plus

RangerXLT8 said:

MAn have fun cutting that top plastic piece.... PITA! It is dense for plastic....


I like how you took it off though, I cut through the plastic and metal all at once on my P180....

Click to expand...

Yeah I started to cut at the same time but the blade wore out to quick where it couldn't hit the metal. I said screw it and will find some other way to cut it. Dremeling it just melt it to crap so probably going to use some sort of saw when I get a chance again.

The case took a damn long time to cut, 4 hours spread out so I wouldn't melt the dang dremel. Only 11 blades and some time and I was through it. As well don't know if you can see it from the pic, holes are miss placed (DOH) I can only get 4 screws in. Oh well its rock solid to the top but its not going to make a nice clean top as I hoped with 8 holes. Then again it was my first time so now I know next time I do it I'll really take my time. I was under time constraint since the wife was gone Yet shes home and is happy as all and didn't even notice it even while im taking up the whole bathroom right now lol.

Another thing you might want to consider when you re-do your set up, is how the CPU block is mounted.

Nikshub, found that clocking the apogee GT block a certain way on C2D cpus performed better. Search this forum, Im sure youll find it easily.

--pak

Oh yes thats great thanks for that bit of info. At least this time my tubes are a little longer running to the rad so I can play with it a bit more. Nearly all rehooked back up to check for leakys again and to get the air out of the loop.

Well after the whole remount only a few C cooler. Nothing impressive by any means. Still hit 53/54C loaded in orthos and its actually cool in the room. GPU is the same basically. Really not sure what the deal is with it. Nothing stuck in the inside of the CPU block, all is good in that department I even rotated it. It is running 4C cooler on idle right now though.

So 39-40C to 52/54C.

Added note GPU is running 5C cooler as well.

Does anyone have a C2D setup with the same block and can give me some load temps? I know looking around some are getting roughly the same temps on the CPU. So maybe im not as far off as I thought.
GPU temps dropped dramatically and would of thought that the water would of dropped it at least some what.

Edit: Correction its back up into the 57-60C range for the CPU.

We've got the same setup except I'm running the plain Apogee. Here is a SS:


This is with my Deltas at 7v and ambient ~73F. I didn't include the GPU in the SS but according to ATItool it's at 35C idle right now. I think it loads just under 50C.

Oh and running Orthos bumps the CPU temps up about 2-3C.

Hmm really just under 50C at that speed? I know at 3.0Ghz I get roughly 40-41C Load. I seem to hover at 3.6Ghz with 1.525V 57-58C Idle is 40-43C depending, as soon as the loads off it drops to 45C in seconds.

Anyone else thinks this is proper as well? Guess im more in shock that the GPU runs cooler at full load OCed then the CPU.