Jury Riggin

[Ottoman]

can any of u guys think of a way to mount a standard
65x35mm waterblock to a core with bolt holes at 45x25mm?

if U can u'll be my hero, and I'll be able to drop these noisy fans finally...

[dreadlord79]

Can you go to your local hardware store and find some bolts that fit? If you can, you might be able to bend the bolts after they leave the block and again before they enter the screw holes so they will go through your board and still be able to have a nut put on them.

[Diggrr]

Easy, just use brass bolts with the countersink heads. Make a template out of aluminum or a tin can by punching the correct holes/spacing in it. Coat the bolt heads with flux, stick 'em flat head down on the underside of your block, slip the template over them, and solder away with a propane torch. If the bolts are too long, put a couple of nuts on them and cut the extra off. Remove the nuts, shape with a file and viola!

[Ottoman]

huh???
1st)
I'm lost are u saying the bolts leave the block at 65x35...
and then I bend them into a Z shape? to fit the 45x25 pcb??

the holes aren't that big.... maybe 2mm across, "bolts" sound large to me...

2nd) and u saying that I should just glue the lugs to the buttom of the block and then slide it through and bolt it down???

I'm a little hazy... plus I don't wanna start 'experimenting' with a waterblock and screw it up...

I'm a college kid who just had $250 bucks scammed from him...

so i'd like to get it right on the first try....

[Diggrr]

Firstly, bolts doesn't imply 'large bolts'. I have a bottle of 1/3 mm bolts about the size of the hinge bolts on the joints for a pair of glasses...those too are called bolts.

Secondly, soldering and bolting through the board would work fine. The inconvenience of removing your motherboard each time you want to change it would be a penalty though.

Thirdly, If it's a 'brand name' waterblock, most makers have an interior picture of the block on their web page. Maybe you can make new holes missing the water passages altogether.

And lastly, is there a clear space through the center of the block allowing socket tab holdowns? Ya know, the clips that go over the block, holding all 6 socket lugs and having a screw in the middle of the waterblock?

[Diggrr]

Like this one, courtesy of Overclock-watercool.

[Ottoman]

see i haven't bought the block yet...

I was gonna either convert my old hsf into a waterblock by enclosing it, but that mounts to the heat plate, I was hoping I could just take it off and use the hole the heatplate was mounted with and mount a copper on that...

I haven't bought the block yet... I was looking at the maze 2's..

here's my PCB, it sits perpendicular to my board... like a celeron...
note the 4 holes around the core, those are the ones I'm talking about....

do u think it can be done with your above method?

http://www6.tomshardware.com/cpu/99q3/990826/images/athlonocfront.jpg

[Diggrr]

Well, I didn't get the picture in your post, but as long as the socket is the same dimension from top to bottom across the locking cam, I'd get the the 50mm x 50mm block and the above posted clamp. It's light enough that if you don't travel with the computer, (lan parties and such) it shouldn't go anywhere, or do any damage. And probably not even then. They are pretty sturdy.

A larger block is not necessarily better, in fact I'd bet it just engineered that big to take advantage of the holes. Then more water passages have to be added to keep the same water to copper ratios.
Check back a couple of pages in the cooling posts to see the nanoblock post. Mind you it works on athlon/t-bird's as that's where these processors' heat load is. If your running something other, stick to size of the heat plate.