Base plate thickness?

[CreePinG_DeatH]

A question has long been in my mind, but I have never asked and just assumed that the professionals knew what they were doing. I see all the heatsinks and they do they jobs, but why are the baseplates so thick? I mean I would think that if the thickness of the baseplate was around 1/4" thick that the heat would be able to be dissipated faster form the core of the CPU. I mean if you havea thikcer peice of metal contacting the core wouldn't it seem more likely to have the thick metal block getting hot too? If so, wouldn't it be wiser to have a thinner block getting hot so it can be cooled faster and ahve less heat stored in the baseplate? I am just guessing... Maybe the fact that air is the cooling medium I dunno. Just a thought.


On a side note I have my 3d- model of my designed heatsink/thingy done, I just need to get teh digital camera from my dad's work. I just hope I can find someone to buy my idea and start production. Does anyone know anything about that? I mean I need a prototype and stuff to test first, but people have volunteered for that too.

Wolf's nipple chips! Get'em while they're hot! They're lovely!

[azhari]

The thickness of the base plate is really a balance between transfering heat from the cpu (thinner is better) and holding heat (thicker is better). This is why in the case of water or peltier cooling the base is thinner since water and peltier remove heat faster than air cooling.

[CreePinG_DeatH]

excellent... then it all works out for my prototype... NIPPLES

[Silver]

Azhari has it right. I took the top off of my DD maze 2/1 the other day and here are the measurements on the channels: 6mm wide, 10mm deep, base is 2mm thick. Design is a spiral type square, more or less 400mm in length. Channel walls are approximately 1.5 mm in width. Exterior walls are 3mm in width. The corners where the bolt downs (mounting) are located are in my opinion of poor design as each corner has a 16mmx18mmx12mm hunk of uncooled metal. I suspect that this is little assistance to cooling under high voltage (read temp) loads. This may be some of the reasons why this sink becomes warm under high voltage loads. I too have ordered some copper and am planning to build my own waterblock. I'm looking at a 4x4x.5 inch block. Don't know if this will work or not however save for working around a couple of capacitors it seems that something on this order is achievable. Took the socket apart a couple of weeks ago and modified it to place my plexied (slightly oversized) water sink on. Got one degree lower on this attempt however once the heat overcomes the aluminum it becomes unforgiving and will overheat quickly.

This is a lot more than you wanted so I am outta here. Take Care.

BTW, I do not use pelts at this time. I do use a bong though and I believe that with a well designed water block 1.78 stable is achievable.

[RoadWarrior]

The situation is that the sinks need some thickness to spread the heat out a bit. Otherwise they'd just get really hot over the core and the other fins would be like just decoration.

That's what you have to balance out well really, also you don't want it warping so a bit of bulk is good for that too.

That's why copper or silver plates or spreaders are popular, they give more "spread" in less thickness, due to better conductivity.

Road Warrior