direct die?

[The Overclocker]

i have my homemade direct die waterblock with me, it fits and hopefully shouldn't leak.

what i want to know is what do i need to insulate and what should i use to instulate it?

[Diggrr]

I'd get a real Marine epoxy. Got any boating shops around? Use it on all the bits, but not on the core, it will insulate it <edit> from the watercooling.

And surely don't use nail polish..:D

[Warlord2]

you may try Plumbers Goop

you can get a big tub of the glue at home depot for like $7
sticks to almost all metals and even fiberglass however it takes 36 hours for it to dry:( but you can cute that in half if you put it in the oven

[Thelemac]

Erm...why is it that you need to insulate? For fear of leaks? If that's the case then you probably want to coat everything with something (check the silicone thread for some ideas)...if you're worried about it getting too cold, then you shouldn't be. Unless you're introducing TECs to the equation.

[RoadWarrior]

I have seen people saying that epoxies can go softish in warm water, been thinking about that, and think this is more likely to apply to quick setting epoxies. Those that set in 5 mins to half an hour. The regular type that need a full cure time are better I think.

Also if you're buying epoxy resin, the car patching type stuff is the cheaper polyester kind that isn't as stable, the marine stuff is higher quality. Can't remember what the recommended marine stuff is, just recall that the polyester is the cheaper less stable one.

regards,

Road Warrior

[The Overclocker]

i have used araldite , old temps with my becooling copper block were 31 load, now they are 26 load

[Veland]

This is just a thought, after all I'm not watercooling, so what do I know!

Would not sucking be better than pumping the water? My train of thought goes like this:

1. If the pump is before the CPU you would force the water thorugh the waterblock making higher pressure that would push the waterblock away from the CPU.

2. If the pump is after the CPU all would be the other way around and the low pressure would help in keeping the waterblock tightly to the CPU.


I'm not sure how pump placement would work in an inline system, and how intake/outtake on the reservoir would probably also affect the effect of my idea... Also good mounting of the block would probably render my ideas meningless
:eh?:

Just some thoughts..

[The Overclocker]

Originally posted by Veland
This is just a thought, after all I'm not watercooling, so what do I know!

Would not sucking be better than pumping the water? My train of thought goes like this:

1. If the pump is before the CPU you would force the water thorugh the waterblock making higher pressure that would push the waterblock away from the CPU.

2. If the pump is after the CPU all would be the other way around and the low pressure would help in keeping the waterblock tightly to the CPU.


I'm not sure how pump placement would work in an inline system, and how intake/outtake on the reservoir would probably also affect the effect of my idea... Also good mounting of the block would probably render my ideas meningless
:eh?:

Just some thoughts..

but if the watercooling is in a closed loop then the pump will be pushing and pulling

[Veland]

Yep, totaly agree!

I kinda typed before thinking it all through..

Oh, do you have a pic of your homemade waterblock? Thinking of nozzle placement and stuff like that. Also, the edge that touches your CPU, the part you need to seal, has it got a groove in it? Sort of the type you have when using O-rings... I think that yould really help stop leaks.

[The Overclocker]

Originally posted by Veland
Yep, totaly agree!

I kinda typed before thinking it all through..

Oh, do you have a pic of your homemade waterblock? Thinking of nozzle placement and stuff like that. Also, the edge that touches your CPU, the part you need to seal, has it got a groove in it? Sort of the type you have when using O-rings... I think that yould really help stop leaks.

at the moment i only have a film camra, but should get a digital soon. the inlet is right in the center of the block, and is exiting at in the top side.

i am using epoxy to cover the resistors and stick it down, there is too much hassle and problems doing it other ways

[Maximus Nickus]

Any pics? (paint made up) I'm still weary on the concept of Direct Die cooling, what in exact figures is it diff to normal?

How can your old block only be 31C full load???? Get a better pump and radiator!!!

My T-Bird only hits 35C with my Thermo, and when my room is about 25C, your rooms colder!

[Warlord2]

watercooling is made for when you have a heavy load like 70+ watts of heat to dump

durons dont put out that much heat even overclocked and the die is smaller

I bet if he had that same setup with a Tbird 1.4 there would only be a slite increase in temps as with air cooling there will be a great increase

also watercooling is quieter thin air cooling and will cool better if you have heavy loads like pelts and high end Tbirds

[The Overclocker]

Originally posted by Warlord2
watercooling is made for when you have a heavy load like 70+ watts of heat to dump

durons dont put out that much heat even overclocked and the die is smaller

I bet if he had that same setup with a Tbird 1.4 there would only be a slite increase in temps as with air cooling there will be a great increase

also watercooling is quieter thin air cooling and will cool better if you have heavy loads like pelts and high end Tbirds

my duron wont go above 1000 anyway, so i decided to go for dircet die for the best effects. the temps should come down even more when i have finished my mod to the waterblock, i have put a 90 degree copper thing instead of using tubes which kink