you might laugh.. water component positioning..

ok so ive been planning my wc set up, and ive just got to wait for the shop to get the tygon tubing in stock so i can order a whole load of bits n bobs from them. i just have a couple more questions, see if anyone has answers?
firstly an easy one i hope, i will be making my liquid UV reactive with some coloured dye to be a little camp and flashy thats the first additive. the second will be some biocide, ive seen a pill you break open or a liquid you give a few drops to your system.. so question is,
1) i can leave out antifreeze all together with these two added?
the antifreeze i use for my truck is also labelled 'summer coolant', i take it this is a lie as ive read AF reduces the cooling power of water?

ok now for the tricky one,
for a reservoir, im going to make one out of stainless tube. cap off the bottom, burn weld two holes in the side, one at very bottom and one about a quarter to half way up. then tig weld in the barbs, and make either a cap to secure on the top, or a screw in type to stop stuff getting in. thing is, this resevoir is going to be mounted to the outside of the case. so the tube is going to be threaded through drilled holes to the barbs.
there is no way im going to be able to remove the kit unless i disconnect the tube this way. i could put a drain plug in the resevoir..
2) i mean, how has other people done theirs? do they need dis-connecting often? or will i be alright doing it this way... what reason will i have for needing the water to be drained at all?

The purpose of antifreeze in our loops is more for corrosion inhibition, rather than as a biocide. So you will still need antifreeze if there are disimilar metals in the loop (i.e. aluminum/copper)

Some people take apart their rigs once or twice a year to clean everything because after time a little gunk builds up. Summer coolant sounds good to me but wait on some more opinions.

ok well havnt chose a block yet but most likely going for dtec fuzion = copper
and the resevoir i will be making is stainless grade T304 (chromium and nickel i believe - there is no iron in this stainless, it does not surface rust or anything), and i dunno what the barbs are, hoping they are something like that too so it can be welded. so these different metals - ill have to use antifreeze

if the metal is resistant to rust, i doubt it will have any electrolytic effects. Don't quote me on it, but i havn't heard of a stainless being used as an anode or cathode.

The grease monkey knows that the more antifreze you add the more retarded the cooling efficency. Thats why in summer some grease monkeys will dilute their antifreze to gain better cooling capacity in thier cars.

If he talks about welding stainless it means he has TIG. If he has a TIG and the skills to use it he should just build his own MM UFO and weld the res straight into the case.

For ataching a barb its easier to just drill a hole and tap a thread, this way you can use any sized tube you want all you have to do is screw in a new barb...

i cant build something i dont know about but im willing to learn! whats a MM UFO ?
yes i can weld TIG your correct.. mig welding stainless shouldnt be allowed lol

i was thinking about welding the res to the outside of the case, but 1) the case is quite thin, and would buckle, unless i just tacked/placed spots in a few places. and 2) its not to hard to weld 2 brackets to the res, and bolt it.

so im now wondering if 'antifreeze and summer coolant' is a different formula to normal antifreeze?

Hipcrostino said:

if the metal is resistant to rust, i doubt it will have any electrolytic effects. Don't quote me on it, but i havn't heard of a stainless being used as an anode or cathode.

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In our looks, stainless steel should be bullet proof unless you do something intentional.

Stainless will rust, but it varies greatly by the type of stainless. 316 Stainless steel is the best at corrosion resistance before you go to something really fancy. To get your basic 300 or 400 (the 400s do oxidize easier than the 300s) series stainless steel to rust it has to come in contact with something harsh like sea water. By chance, that happened to my pocket knife which has a 440 stainless steel handle and a Chrome Molly Vanadium blade. A few drops of sea water at the beach caused some nice black oxidation. Yay! Thankfully it's a working tool that's meant to get beat up and not a show piece so what do I care.

This is an MM U2UFO







They are PC cases made for water cooling. If you have TIG and the skills you should try to make one. If you made a MM U2UFO out of stainless it would be plenty strong for your needs.

Moto7451 said:

In our looks, stainless steel should be bullet proof unless you do something intentional.

Stainless will rust, but it varies greatly by the type of stainless. 316 Stainless steel is the best at corrosion resistance before you go to something really fancy. To get your basic 300 or 400 (the 400s do oxidize easier than the 300s) series stainless steel to rust it has to come in contact with something harsh like sea water. By chance, that happened to my pocket knife which has a 440 stainless steel handle and a Chrome Molly Vanadium blade. A few drops of sea water at the beach caused some nice black oxidation. Yay! Thankfully it's a working tool that's meant to get beat up and not a show piece so what do I care.

Click to expand...

sorry i wasnt clear,your correct that it will rust but i was referring to 'brown rust' like you get with iron. ive seen 409 grade rust brown on the outside - very crap. you can wire brush it off but no good for show.and this was not anywhere near the sea!
the 304 doesnt do this. all that happens with this is a fresh cut will then go from shiny to a slightly duller shiny. and thats it. you can leave it out in the rain or whatever with no problem. we even made some custom bits up for someones boat.
even alluminium rusts, by rust we mean oxidise. but if you asked someone that didnt know any technical stuff then they would most likely argue back and say alluminium does not rust..

the 304 and 409 is all that i had been in contact with, apart from the 316 welding rods we used.
wd-40 or some lube/grease will help save your knife