Tape up leak?

[ancalime]

Hey guys I just finished this water cooling computer and it has a small leak in one of the CPU block and reservoir barbs. The leak is very small so I am wondering if I can just use some tape around the barb. I have already tried tightening the barb but it just won't go any further and it continues to leak. The leak is so small though that I didn't notice it for a full day and it hasn't dripped yet. Just the area around the barb is wet.

If tape is an acceptable solution, what kind of tape would be best. Could I just use Scotch tape? I am trying to solve this ASAP so I need help immediately please. Thank you.

[neonlazer]

I have that same problem...tho under my video card where if it ever does drip..it drips on case...i just leave it alone and touch it once a day to get the drop off it lol...i was thinking electrical tape but not sure how that does with water...plus its messy to use.

[AZNBoiOnFIYA]

You might try to thread the barb with plumbers tape to see if thatll fix it. Even if you tape it with something like scotch tape it won't fix the problem.

[neonlazer]

You might try to thread the barb with plumbers tape to see if thatll fix it. Even if you tape it with something like scotch tape it won't fix the problem.

I agree..using teflon would definitely fix the leak..but he has to take it apart in order to put it on.

[Tyranos]

If you don't want to take the barb out and put teflon tape on the threading, you might want to try epoxy putty. I had a VIA pump leaking like a son of a bitch, so I worked the putty into every leaking area and let it dry. Leak was eliminated.

[EchoTheDolphin]

Good to hear.

Are leaks fairly common when initially setting up a watercooling system even if down right dow to the letter?

[Tyranos]

I wouldn't say so, if you're careful and take your time. If you do, and you still have leaks your components may be faulty or need to be tightened.

[meionm]

Teflon tape should work

[aja]

you could also try rub petroleum jelly over the threads before you screw in the barb.

but plumbers tape is amazing!

[pak]

I have that same problem...tho under my video card where if it ever does drip..it drips on case...i just leave it alone and touch it once a day to get the drop off it lol...i was thinking electrical tape but not sure how that does with water...plus its messy to use.

IMO, you are insane. You knowingly have a leak in your loop and you leave it alone.

I have taken my loop apart several times and every time I leak test for 24 hours.

I teflon all fittings and use the screw type clamps. I don't trust any of those plastic ones, zip ties or clamps.

Not only is a leak a leak, it also means your loop is not 100% sealed. 100% sealed systems already naturally have build up. Having a leak is just asking for more.

--pak

[aja]

I have that same problem...tho under my video card where if it ever does drip..it drips on case...i just leave it alone and touch it once a day to get the drop off it lol...i was thinking electrical tape but not sure how that does with water...plus its messy to use.

Put a tiny pot plant in there! automatic sprinkler system!

[Sleepy_Steve]

Teflon tape... or any automotive thread lock / sealant on the threads should stop the leaks.
Leaks due to hose clamps are a different story.

If I have the space for WC again, I think I'm gonna try and use ONLY threaded connections... Because they seem to be more reliable long term for preventing fluid leaks.

[pak]

Teflon tape... or any automotive thread lock / sealant on the threads should stop the leaks.
Leaks due to hose clamps are a different story.

If I have the space for WC again, I think I'm gonna try and use ONLY threaded connections... Because they seem to be more reliable long term for preventing fluid leaks.

I personally wouldn't want to use a thread lock of any sort. If you really want to, make sure you use a mild one that will come apart. Unless you don't mine things being stuck for ever.

--pak

[Sleepy_Steve]

haha, I work on my car so much these days... I figure if its good for 110+(mph) on the track with temps breaking 200F and pegging my gauges at 100psi -- Its gonna be fine for a WC setup.

As long as you can put a wrench on both sides, you can get it apart... Might take 30-40 ft/lbs but it does break free eventually.

[BioTuned]

Hey guys I just finished this water cooling computer and it has a small leak in one of the CPU block and reservoir barbs. The leak is very small so I am wondering if I can just use some tape around the barb. I have already tried tightening the barb but it just won't go any further and it continues to leak. The leak is so small though that I didn't notice it for a full day and it hasn't dripped yet. Just the area around the barb is wet.

If tape is an acceptable solution, what kind of tape would be best. Could I just use Scotch tape? I am trying to solve this ASAP so I need help immediately please. Thank you.


the problem you have is that you've tightened the barbs too tight, which caused the o-ring to squeeze out, which causes the leak. You don't have to tighten the barbs real tight, they just have to be tightened enough that if provides pressure on the o-ring to do it's magic.

[neonlazer]

I think i will fix it somehow..but if it drips at all..its on the case..and i never see it drip so i aint gona take the whole darn thing apart just to fix that...and who was the one who said dont put teflon on them in the first place!...i was putting it on then someone said o-rings should be fine! dah!

[noxqzs]

I think i will fix it somehow..but if it drips at all..its on the case..and i never see it drip so i aint gona take the whole darn thing apart just to fix that...and who was the one who said dont put teflon on them in the first place!...i was putting it on then someone said o-rings should be fine! dah!

If you have o-rings, then I wouldn't use teflon tape or any type of silicone. In that case, it would make sense to just remove the o-ring and use another sealer. Someone mentioned not overtightening the o-ring so that it seats well. Here is an example

http://home.comcast.net/~noxqzs/Radiator/oring.jpg

Thread locker, would mostly be a hasle if dealing with metal to metal, but could damage your waterblock if it has a plastic top. Removing the barb from plastic/delrin/polycarbonate etc... could strip the threads, if the lock-tite was stronger than the material.

I also would take your loop apart and fix it properly. Why chance hundreds of dollars in equipment over a half-hour fix? Things could improve, just as fast as they deteriorate.

[ancalime]

Thanks for all the replies guys. I really don't want to take everything apart because this PC is due tomorrow and it is really cramped in the case.

The barb is also one of those plastic ones, it does not have an O-Ring. I think I am going to use metal barbs from now on. I never had a metal barb leak on me while this is already the third time a plastic barb has.

I seem to have fixed the reservoir leak. All I did was give it one more quarter turn and it seemed to have stopped. I also tightened the Apogee a bit further and the leaking slowed down a bit, but it continues to leak.

I'm thinking I could just put some layers of electric tape covering the base of the Apogee barb. The water shouldn't leak through (it will probably just evaporate) and if I seal it tight enough, its still a closed loop per se. I guess I am just looking for the easy way out of this, but I really don't have many options.

[evilrad]

The barb is also one of those plastic ones, it does not have an O-Ring. I think I am going to use metal barbs from now on. I never had a metal barb leak on me while this is already the third time a plastic barb has.

I seem to have fixed the reservoir leak. All I did was give it one more quarter turn and it seemed to have stopped. I also tightened the Apogee a bit further and the leaking slowed down a bit, but it continues to leak.

I'm thinking I could just put some layers of electric tape covering the base of the Apogee barb. The water shouldn't leak through (it will probably just evaporate) and if I seal it tight enough, its still a closed loop per se. I guess I am just looking for the easy way out of this, but I really don't have many options.

The Apogee does use an O-ring. If you don't have an O-ring on the barbs, then that is definitely the problem. If you have a res that doesn't use O-rings, then you should have used some teflon tape on them. I would definitely take the loop apart and make things right.

[ancalime]

The Apogee does use an O-ring. If you don't have an O-ring on the barbs, then that is definitely the problem. If you have a res that doesn't use O-rings, then you should have used some teflon tape on them. I would definitely take the loop apart and make things right.

Yes I don't know what I am saying, it does have O-rings.

A little update, the leaking seems to have come to a spontaneous halt. Just in case though, I wrapped the entire barb area of the Apogee with this plumbing wrapping which is used to seal connections. I than added a zip tie over the wrapping and also placed some electrical tape over that. I think this problem should be solved.

[batboy]

Slapping some crap tape over the outside is worthless. Let's review: if it don't have an o-ring, it needs teflon plumber's tape on the threads. If it has an o-ring, then you probably overtightened and ruined the o-ring from what you said in the first post. "I have already tried tightening the barb but it just won't go any further and it continues to leak." If you are too lazy to take it apart to fix it correctly, then you really don't need to be running a watercooled system and probably deserve whatever will happen. Of course that's just my own personal opinion.

[g14novak]

Slightly harsh, but i agree with batboy, if your not going to fix it right, its probably not worth having. ;\

[ancalime]

Slapping some crap tape over the outside is worthless. Let's review: if it don't have an o-ring, it needs teflon plumber's tape on the threads. If it has an o-ring, then you probably overtightened and ruined the o-ring from what you said in the first post. "I have already tried tightening the barb but it just won't go any further and it continues to leak." If you are too lazy to take it apart to fix it correctly, then you really don't need to be running a watercooled system and probably deserve whatever will happen. Of course that's just my own personal opinion.

I'm sorry but I don't recall saying I am "too lazy" to take it apart and fix it. I already expressed the time constraints associated with this project. This PC is not for me and I have already told the client about the situation and he says it is absolutely paramount he has it by tomorrow. If I had a couple more days to take the entire loop apart and refill and leak test again, I would. Unfortunately this is not the case. One of his cousins is a plumber and he seems to have approved of simply applying the wrapping. This really has nothing to do with being careless or lazy, the client has approved of such a solution and repeatedly asked for the PC by tomorrow, so I am going to adhere to his needs.

[pak]

well who put the loop together? Who ever did is ultimately responsible for it being put together correctly. When I pay for a service I expect it done correctly and on time.

And in all honestly, it does not take more than a few hours to take that pc apart and take the loop apart to correct the leak. Yes, it is recommended to leak test for 24 hours, but is not necessary. If the leak is active, you will definitely see if it is corrected or not.


--pak

[ancalime]

Well pak, I wouldn't feel anymore safe giving him a non-leak tested loop than how it is now. I don't think simply spot checking immediately after the pump is turned on is enough, I had leaks form (or at least came to my attention) about 12 hours in. So for me to take this apart and complete a leak test would take more time than is available. Perhaps I could of finished if I did it yesterday night, but I was far too tired and that is the past.

My client also happens to be my friend and he is not being charged a cent. Of course, this doesn't excuse me from doing a quality job. But in all honesty, the barb area looks like it has been smothered in cement. That's how complete and tight the wrapping is. Nothing is going in or out, not air, not water. I really believe redoing the loop would be unnecessary at this point, but we will see.

EDIT: And I don't want to start/continue an argument or anything. I sincerely thank all for their advice and concern.

[voigts]

the client has approved of such a solution and repeatedly asked for the PC by tomorrow, so I am going to adhere to his needs.

The problem is that this is going to be causing you grief when that leak develops into a real problem. I don't know why it would take days to properly fix a leak. On plastic barbs, I always use RTV silicone. It is the best thing to use on the plastic threads. For metal tapered barbs, use plumber's tape. For o-rings, you want the correct size and don't want to overtighten them as you can stretch them and then they don't seal. But that is also a .30 cent fix at ACE hardware.

Trying to put stuff on the outside is just going to be a temporary measure. Unless you FIX the problem, you are going to have more problems to deal with in the long run.

If you are building watercooling systems for others, I would heartily recommend setting up to leaktest using air instead of water (http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=478351). Leaks can be heard very easily, you can test at higher pressure than you can with water, and if you do find a leak, there is no water to deal with.

I think I have only had one leak issue due to a tube torquing a res barb and I used air to leaktest and it took me all of 15min to fix.

[Moto7451]

Instead of messing with thread lockers, teflon tape, and O rings, just use RTV silicone. It makes a great seal but is easy to remove. Best of all, it's thread type agnostic (reason teflon tape is useless on barbs with O Rings is that they have a straight thread).

[Mycobacteria]

do you guys recomend using teflon tape for the threads that are a little bit leaky?

[QuietIce]

As Moto noted, teflon does not work well with straight threads. The best answer for those is a new O-ring and a lighter touch ...

[batboy]

In the amount of time it took to wrap up the outside, you could of fixed it right.

[voigts]

do you guys recomend using teflon tape for the threads that are a little bit leaky?

Teflon tape is designed for tapered metal to metal connections. That is what it is good for. Plumber's goop is also great stuff for this although it is a bit messy.

For plastic connections such as tapered plastic in metal or metal in plastic or plastic in plastic, use RTV silicone.

For straight threads that use 0-rings, there is just no good substitute for a good o-ring, and o-rings last years and are the best sealer, hence why they are used. Teflon tape will just keep the o-ring from sealing. You can use a bit of RTV silicone with an o-ring connection, but you won't have to if the o-ring fits properly and isn't over tightened.

[genec57]

I tried but I just can't stay quiet.
I just broke my system down and removed one of my two rads, rehooked it and am starting leak testing and burping air. The whole process has required less than half an hour. Since I only have to check three connections the leak test will require less than an hour.
Anyone who puts themselves out as a professional who is too f'ing lazy and/or incompetant to properly seal a system before delivery should go and sell shoes.
It is this level of lazy incompetance that gives us all a bad name.
If you can't do it right don't do it.
There, I fell better now. :)

[ancalime]

If you are building watercooling systems for others, I would heartily recommend setting up to leaktest using air instead of water (http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=478351). Leaks can be heard very easily, you can test at higher pressure than you can with water, and if you do find a leak, there is no water to deal with.


Thanks voigts, I'll look into that. Is the only advantage not having to drain the loop if there is a leak though? That's what it seems to me.

To batboy and genec57: I already said that I would not be comfortable with a simple half an hour leak test. I have also already said the leaking HAS stopped and I am simply wrapping it as a safety measure. I don't wish to discuss this further. What is done is done and I will thank again all those who offered their advice and concern.

[voigts]

Thanks voigts, I'll look into that. Is the only advantage not having to drain the loop if there is a leak though? That's what it seems to me.

The other advantage is that you can pump your system up to much more pressure than your water will provide. Watercooling systems only have a few psi, while with my air setup, I pump it up to 10psi for testing and hold that usually overnight. Also, air molecules are smaller than water. If if doesn't leak at 3 times the pressure with air, I have nothing to be concerned about with water.

[buey]

The other advantage is that you can pump your system up to much more pressure than your water will provide. Watercooling systems only have a few psi, while with my air setup, I pump it up to 10psi for testing and hold that usually overnight. Also, air molecules are smaller than water. If if doesn't leak at 3 times the pressure with air, I have nothing to be concerned about with water.

I considered pressure testing my loop, but I figured the rubber tubing would slowly expand and give me a false reading. When you left yours overnight, did it stay at exactly the same pressure?

[Sleepy_Steve]

It should, assuming the gauge to measure pressure was in the same place at the end of the test.

Unless you spring a leak, the pressure should remain constant more or less.

[voigts]

I considered pressure testing my loop, but I figured the rubber tubing would slowly expand and give me a false reading. When you left yours overnight, did it stay at exactly the same pressure?

Yes, exactly the same pressure. My gauge shows any small drop in pressure very clearly.

[Mycobacteria]

What about silicone?

Although I think it needs to be dry in order to set properly... (That means takin the water out of the loop then applying the silicone)