Conductive Ink Horror!!!

[Shaft]

Well I think I might have made an amazinly stupid mistake. I was unlocking the replacement tbird that AMD sent me and the conductive pen top came off and ink went out everywhere. Some of the conductive ink got onto 6 or 7 of the pins on the bottom of the chip. I tried my hardest with nail polish remover and qtips to get the ink off the pins but there still seems to be a few spots of it I cant get to.

Is it a safe assumption to make that I should not even try putting this chip on my mobo? I have a bad feeling with that ink on those pins it will short everything out to all hell.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated at this point. Thanks!

[azhari]

I would say test it with a multimeter to check for shorts. But be careful since some multimeters put 9V across the leads to measure resistance. That would be bad.

[Shaft]

Thanks for the suggestion but I don't have a multimeter. I don't know if there is going to be an easy way around this. I just can't afford to kill my motherboard and anything else in the process.

[DJ2000]

People, you need to take all precautions when attempting unlocking. Whatever you read , it is a lot harder than it sounds reading about it. It cannot be done, at least on the first try by someone who has never done it before, in 10 minutes.

Taping off other parts of the chip is crucial to the success of the operation in case of unfortunate accident.

[Placid]

I the ink is dried on some of the pins on the bottom of the cpu get someone with long fingernails to scrape it off.

[CrackedSKull]

at least it didn't go all over the motherboard, but i'm sure you can get it off with a little work.

[Shaft]

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. The finger nail idea worked for getting the majority off and then I used a toothbrush with some nail polish remover to get the rest of. It appears that I got it all and now it is time to test it out. Thanks again for all the help.

[The Coolest]

I used only a pencil to unlock my Duron, if ur afraid of making this mess again just use a #2 or a mechanical 0.5mm pencil, I used the mechanical on both my L1s & L7s and it worked great, I only hear u'll have to redo them w/ time

[Tiger]

I would immerse it in acetone overnight. Acetone is a good solvent. The only part that I don't know is the effect of the acetone on the plastic(?) that they use around the core to insulate traces there. They could be covered again with a twin pack epoxy.

[Silver]

Let us know how it comes out. Does it live?

[Shaft]

Yep it sure does. Its a 1.0 Ghz DYHJA and I have it runnin right now at 1.51ghz at default voltage :D

[The Coolest]

1.51GHz @ default Vcore, that is 1.75V?!!?!?!?! WOW man that is pretty amazin overclock w/ default Vcore, I wonder how fast will it go w. a little more Vcore, what are the FSB/Multi settings? Is it 100% stable?

Congrats

[NHLSPeX]

I'm having problem trying to unlock my Athlon XP 1600+. I superglued the gaps and used conductive silver epoxy(from CrazyPC) to connect the bridges in L1. When I booted up, the CPU either shows up as a Athlon 1200MHz or AthlonXP 1444MHz(if i remember correctly). I got this on my first try so I did it again from scratch. I got the same thing. Could you help me out? Do you think is the silver epoxy(not being too conductive) or what am I doing wrong? Any tips! Thanks!

Current Setup:
Abit KR7A
AthlonXP 1600+@1.53GHz (10.5 x 145) 1.75v
Alpha PAL8045 w/Delta 68cfm
VisionTek Geforce3 Ti-200
Crucial 256 MB PC2100 DDR
20GB WD HD
Antec SX1040B 400w PS
Win2k Pro

[el]

Well nice OC.

The question of the 1200 and 1444mhz chip I would update your bios first.

[wiresman]

:eek:
I agree, it is a lot harder than it looks, I got one of those conductive pens from a nearby Grainger outlet, xpensive! But, I thought oh well, no guts--no glory! ANyway, I had my tape, my jewelers scope, needles, super glue, grounding wire on big toe, and a razor blade. Those L1 bridges look about 10x's bigger anywhere on the postings, my eyes still hurt!
It took me forever to line the tape pieces up exactly right, trying not to get finger grease on it also. Added superglue twice, as 1st x, didnt look like it flowed right. After that, removed tape and retaped for bridging with conductive paint. Paint LEAKED UNDER THE TAPE ! my super glue line was raised a bit, no way to tape to seal properly it seemed. Said he#! with it and used needle to freehand the connections.....looked great until I looked with scope, see metal flakes of fast drying paint touching other lines!
Cut them apart, some gold dots not really connected, paint drying up too fast,paint flaking. Some paint touched the L3 gold dots! Had to scrape them away. In other words it looks easier than it is. Im sure I did something wrong, oh yeah tried to use an eraser to clean some paint off, knocked those laser burnt pieces loose, guess I didnt need em anyway. Kinda like surgery on a butterfly head.
After reinstalling the processor, and my HSF(waiting to crack the core), I booted her up and she came alive surprisingly, to the BIOS I went and selected the 12 multiplier instead of the 11.5 I was locked at previously. it worked, the highest I can select is 12, so maybe I messed upa connection. I tried 12.5 no go. Anyway, now I have a Athlon XP 1800+ (AGOGA Y) @ 1712.
So I guess, its true......No guts, No Glory ! If ya screw up, write another check ! :D