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ppe1700

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Please don't use the word 'gay' in a derogatory sense again.

nikhsub1
Forums Moderator


i didnt.
 
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Sometime things happen during manufacturing. You cannot expect any company to produce 100% no defect items.
 
Where on the block is there black plastic? Im sure you could find the area that was missing as its a fairly big piece. And it could possibly go through your rad, in which case its possible the plastic is from your pump.
 
weird thing, I opened my block before I have even installed it and found the same thing, the gasket on the top was formed but seemingly not trimmed correctly. I just peeled off the edges and put it back in, everything seems fine now. I ordered mine a couple weeks ago.
 
You would think after all these years of manufacturing blocks, their QC would be ontop of things like this. Especially for the price tag they put on these blocks :rolleyes:
 
just another reason for me to find a way to use my swiffy 6002 on future sockets...
 
Yeah but it is a horrible performer... anyhow, that black stuff is just sealent, you can remove it by taking the block apart...

cant be that bad if the appogee uses the same pin-grid layout as the 6000's. the only problem is its more of a pita when you need to clean it. plus i like the fact i can use the socket 478 clips on LGA775. no dought though the 6002 did preform a bit worse then the 6000 wb, i never had any issues with the block when i was using it back on a p4 3.0c.
 
I have a WW on the way, and had one back in my old days of cooling. I cant see how it would fail me now. I never really saw how they could make water cooling blocks much better after a certain point. I mean, the better cooling would need to come from tec's or chillers of some sort which I wish I had bought back in the day when I remember someone making them.
 
Umm it is that bad compared to new blocks :/

nikhsub-block-test.jpg

never saw that before.... hmmm well looks like you twisted my arm... i might just use the 2 i have then for stock clocked systems....

could you clarify what im a looking at though... from what i gather it looks like the higher the water flow the worse some wbs do, i dont recall what the DT stands for.
 
could you clarify what im a looking at though... from what i gather it looks like the higher the water flow the worse some wbs do, i dont recall what the DT stands for.
No, let me explain what u are looking at. The horizonal axis with 1,2,3,4 & 5 are seperate MOUNTS. So 1 is the first test, 2 is the second test and so on. Some blocks got less than 5 mounts as you can see.
 
I don't think you're pointing the finger at the right culprit here. IIRC, you're using a 226W TEC. Assuming you're using it at full bore, you're putting 226W + waste heat + the heat from the overclocked CPU through the block. These blocks are designed for maybe 120-150W as a realistic maximum typical load. Thats a lot of extra heat you're dumping into the loop, even if you're running the TEC at half output (at least double).

No one else here on the forum who is using a Fuzion under normal circumstances has demonstrated this issue. The gasket there looks broken down as if it's aged over a sizable period of time (even the most cheaply made ones don't just fall apart overnight or over a few weeks under normal operating conditions). The most logical conclusion is increased thermal breakdown from the TEC's increased heat dump. Do yourself a favor and use a light coating of an RTV silicone to seal the block. That should fix any issues.
 
No it doesn't quite work that way. The temperature on the hot side of the pelt depends on how well it is being cooled and the temperature itself would depend on it's specific heat. Whats actually important is the quantity of heat being transfered. It looks to me like your top (since thats not the gasket, just noticed where the gasket is) is being melted. We have some items we have injection molded and you may see a little sliver here and there but nothing like what is seen on your block.

Clearly the top is physically damaged. Thinking back to your pelt pressure thread, it could be that you're applying too much pressure and that the increased heat from the pelt's (you're talking nearly 300W for your setup if it's running at full capacity) is causing the top to deform. Two of the corners are all deformed and the sides look so chewed up that I thought that was the O ring :D. You may want to reduce your clamping pressure, and if you feel like getting fancy, having a brass, copper, or stainless steel top made.
 
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