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waterblock for eVGA GeForce 8600 GT 512MB card

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guitardude87

Registered
Joined
Oct 11, 2007
Location
Miami
Hey everyone, I just bought a couple of eVGA GeForce 8600 GT 512MB video cards and am looking to water cool them. I was wondering if anyone knew where I could get a couple of affordable waterblocks for these cards because they tend to get pretty hot (around 62 degrees Celsius). If anyone can provide me with a link it would be most appreciated =)
 
I am at a loss with this. The MCW60 does not list the 8600 cards at all in their compatibility list, and the Maze5 on Danger Den's website does not list any 8xxx compatibility at all.

Can anyone verify whether for this whether or not the 8600GT uses the same hold down as the 8800 cards?
 
Don't even try putting them in your coolermaster 'water cooling'

I actually wasn't even going to use the cooling system..i was actually just going to take the blocks from them and modify a custom kit using those blocks since I couldn't find anything else...i'm making it with an aquarium fish tank pump, home depot hosing, a car radiator (the little one that cools the transmission fluid), i'll be cooling the 680i chipet (btw do you guys know if i'll need to cool the northbridge as well and what block would you guys recommend for that?), and the quad core processor...let me know what you guys think...
 
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My maze4 fit perfect on my 8600gt . Let me take that sucker up to 1000mhz on the core =) have fun
 
My maze4 fit perfect on my 8600gt . Let me take that sucker up to 1000mhz on the core =) have fun

lol if only i would've known that before buying this kit...oh well...i think I saved money by buying this kit anyway...it was only 60 bucks with a 30 buck mail in rebate...so two blocks for practically the price of one...
 
A tranny cooler for a rad? I guess if you happen to have one sitting around it would be OK to try. The '77 Bonneville heater core only runs $20 at most stores and is a great size for 2x120mm fans ...
 
I believe that tranny rads are aluminum and very restrictive for our purposes, both of which are a show stopper. If you are really tight on money, the '77 Bonneyville heatercore (Autozone is the cheapest for this around here) is a way to go, or you can get access to the classifieds here or elsewhere and get a PC rad used.
 
I believe that tranny rads are aluminum and very restrictive for our purposes, both of which are a show stopper. If you are really tight on money, the '77 Bonneyville heatercore (Autozone is the cheapest for this around here) is a way to go, or you can get access to the classifieds here or elsewhere and get a PC rad used.

is it made out of aluminum though? the normal oil coolers are not made of aluminum and over time the metal will rust and oxidize the water..making the circuitry almost inevitably prone to shorting out if there's ever a leak...i know the aluminum tranny rads are not susceptible to that...
 
is it made out of aluminum though? the normal oil coolers are not made of aluminum and over time the metal will rust and oxidize the water..making the circuitry almost inevitably prone to shorting out if there's ever a leak...i know the aluminum tranny rads are not susceptible to that...

Aluminum with copper and electrical charge sets up galvanic corrosion. The '77 Bonneyville for instance is recommended due to its size, but also it is made out of copper/brass. Almost all waterblocks are made out of copper because of its thermal properties, so you especially don't want to use an aluminum radiator. Copper core radiators do not rust or oxidize the water, and you will find that all PC radiators are copper core. Cars use aluminum radiators mainly because it is lighter and cheaper than copper, and in cars you need a high mix of antifreeze due to the need to prevent boiling and freezing which also provides a high level of anticorrosives, all of which are not a concern in PC watercooling. Antifreeze inhibits the thermal transfer properties of water, and hence we normally only use no more than 5-10% antifreeze if at all, which does little to prevent corrosion. So you want to stick with an all copper/brass core.
 
Aluminum with copper and electrical charge sets up galvanic corrosion. The '77 Bonneyville for instance is recommended due to its size, but also it is made out of copper/brass. Almost all waterblocks are made out of copper because of its thermal properties, so you especially don't want to use an aluminum radiator. Copper core radiators do not rust or oxidize the water, and you will find that all PC radiators are copper core. Cars use aluminum radiators mainly because it is lighter and cheaper than copper, and in cars you need a high mix of antifreeze due to the need to prevent boiling and freezing which also provides a high level of anticorrosives, all of which are not a concern in PC watercooling. Antifreeze inhibits the thermal transfer properties of water, and hence we normally only use no more than 5-10% antifreeze if at all, which does little to prevent corrosion. So you want to stick with an all copper/brass core.

ok but say that the inside of the copper piping or blocks or the pump we find ions that end up in the water and ionizes it to make it conductive and then there's a leak...is that something possible?
 
ok but say that the inside of the copper piping or blocks or the pump we find ions that end up in the water and ionizes it to make it conductive and then there's a leak...is that something possible?

Yes it is possible, but that would be the case with either copper or aluminum, and will presumably happen with any fluid used. Pumps use plastic housings. How conductive copper (or alu for that matter) makes the water given various blocks/time is something I have not seen any hard data on.
 
Yes it is possible, but that would be the case with either copper or aluminum, and will presumably happen with any fluid used. Pumps use plastic housings. How conductive copper (or alu for that matter) makes the water given various blocks/time is something I have not seen any hard data on.

i will be running a test on that...i'm going to have the watercooling kit i'm building run for a bit before I actually stick it on my hardware and then i'm going to check for continuity with a simple battery and lightbulb circuit..i'll use the water as the switch to the circuit...i should be able to determine this.
 
i will be running a test on that...i'm going to have the watercooling kit i'm building run for a bit before I actually stick it on my hardware and then i'm going to check for continuity with a simple battery and lightbulb circuit..i'll use the water as the switch to the circuit...i should be able to determine this.

I highly doubt that the water will be conductive enough to carry 120v electricity, but I could be wrong.
 
I highly doubt that the water will be conductive enough to carry 120v electricity, but I could be wrong.

water is conductive enough if it is able to close an open circuit...if that's the case, then I may want to look at another cooling solution that's not corrosive, non-conductive, and preferably capable of non-contamination like creating algae and whatnot
 
water is conductive enough if it is able to close an open circuit...if that's the case, then I may want to look at another cooling solution that's not corrosive, non-conductive, and preferably capable of non-contamination like creating algae and whatnot

If you use all copper/brass components then corrosion is a non-issue. That is the entire point about the rad issue.

As far as non-conductive and no algae, there really is no perfect solution. You can spend your money on Fluid XP and the like, but they are going to become more conductive over time also just like distilled water. And I have seen threads where people used "non-conductive" fluid and still had parts killed. With distilled water, a couple of drops of walmart fish algaecide eliminate the algae potential. You always run the risk if you have a leak of shorting something out, but I see the risk really as rather low given the number of leaks people have and survive with no damage. I fortunately have not had a single leak in the years I have been watercooling. If you get quality parts, put things together properly, leak test well, and use common sense, 98% of the leak risks are eliminated and if you don't have leaks, a bit of conductivity is a non-issue.
 
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