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View Full Version : A ? about Arctic Silver II


Wicked Klown
12-20-01, 12:34 PM
Ok what gives. I just put in my new Dragon+ I put in the CPU with a dab of Arctic Silver II and my Swiftech MC462. The temps with my old AOpen AK73 Pro was 24C-30C depending on hom high the heat was in the house and that was a cheap silver compound. Now with my Dragon+ and Arctic Silver they are 36C-38C. Why is this.

Ridenow
12-20-01, 12:43 PM
How are you measuring the temps? One or the other mobo may be incorrectly reporting temps.

Randy
12-20-01, 01:52 PM
From what I have read, heard and experienced, after a fresh application of ASII you see your best results after about 6 to 8 hrs of run time.
Randy

Wicked Klown
12-20-01, 03:05 PM
Well lastnight I checked my temps through VIA Hardware monitor. The played Ghost Recon for about 4 hours my temps only read 37C before and 38C after. That was at 1.2 gigs and now at 1.1 gig I'm still seeing the same temps. So my ? now is how do I install a Compunurse with my big Swiftech MC462 with a shim.

AntmanMike
12-20-01, 03:27 PM
most of your 500 posts are help questions arent they :).

Wicked Klown
12-20-01, 03:32 PM
No they are not and if they are whats it matter to you. When it comes to computer part it`s better safe then sorry plus that I've been doing things with computers longer then you've been around.

AntmanMike
12-20-01, 03:34 PM
half?

Wicked Klown
12-20-01, 03:37 PM
Not even a 1/4. By the way do us both a fav don't reply to any of my posts thank you.

goman
12-20-01, 08:38 PM
if you feel the need to argue pls do it OFF LINE !!! as much as I love to read the string here I have no urge to see a fight in text mode. We need to get along guys PLEASE !

Wicked Klown
12-20-01, 09:23 PM
It`s not an argument. He just rubs me the wrong way. So I asked him to do me a fav. Correct me if I'm wrong for asking.

Diggrr
12-20-01, 09:44 PM
First let's go over the obvious..

When you put on the sink, did you remove/reseat the processor?
If so did you rebend the thermistor up to ensure contact?
Apply a little goo to it?

Are you sure it's seated level? I use a small ruler (plastic) or the tail of my calipers to make sure.

Did you install a new bios when you made the change? Mobo makers love dinking around with the temps between revisions.

Lapped it? Some say stop at 600 grit, some say mirrored...I say toe-may-toe...:D

Check the fan RPM's? Different fan?

Just some ideas.

By the way, the interview with that guy from Arctic Silver said it could take up to 20 hours of run time to 'set' the silver.

dugans
12-20-01, 10:16 PM
Case temps change any? That may be a clue as to any difference in mobo sensor accuracy.

I have seen small increases in temp when I re-install an hsf so I have started to touch-up the lap on the sink: real quick with 1200 grit ( finest I have). This has been working for me.

Yodums
12-20-01, 10:21 PM
Is everything the same setup except for the motherboard?

Seems like your Aopen board didn't have good temps reading I think the Dragon+ is correct because your cpu temps usually don't go under 30 C.

Colin
12-20-01, 10:59 PM
tsunami has the answer. You can't compare temps from one motherboard to another. Your AOpen board was obviously reading the temps to low. BTW, Arctic Silver will take at least 48 hours of continuous use to break in.

Wicked Klown
12-21-01, 02:24 AM
Ok my HSF is a Swiftech MC462 so it`s on the right way. I'm using the Bios that came with ( don't know how to flash them ). Yes everything is O.G. but the MoBo. When I got the HSF it was already at a mirror finish so I didn't touch it.

Pinkster
12-21-01, 03:06 AM
whats your room temp when those readings were taken, and are they load temps?

and those guys are right it was your old motherboard giving yu the wrong temps, theres nothing wrong with 36 - 38 C degrees, u dont have to start worrying until you go over 60 C.

AntmanMike
12-21-01, 12:32 PM
If you touched the heatsink or the core, you leave detritus (IE: Oils and dirt) from your skin on it. Even ONE skin cell can greatly reduce thermal effectiveness of a heatsink. Be sure to clean the heatsink and core with high grade isopropyl alcohol.

Diggrr
12-21-01, 01:41 PM
Colin, after reading your reply, I went back in the threads and reread the interview article...I stand corrected.<humbly bowing>

It is 48 hours of run time to "burn in" the artic silver.

So much for trusting my memory. I don't use AS2. I use the professional stuff from work that we use for the laser diode peltier coolers (those green beams are purty). Not that it may or may not perform better, just that it works good for me (33C), and is free.

Wicked Klown
12-21-01, 02:22 PM
Ok 1st I never touched the copper part of my Heat Sink. 2nd room temp is about 74-76F. Both idle and load are the same. I can turn on my rig and its about 35C I can then play Ghost Recon for about 2-3 hours and then check my temps and they are still 35C.

Diggrr
12-21-01, 02:47 PM
It's gotta be just the difference between motherboards. It sure sounds like you know what your doing, and you're doing it right.

On my KT7A, the programs to monitor temps always picked the sensors in the wrong order(and it's got 3 for some reason)....just mentioning that cause your load and idle temps are the same...that's the only time I've seen this happen. I'd boot into bios, check the temps there and make sure that they match the ones in hmonitor in the right order.

As for adding a probe with a shim? Only way I can think of is adding a drilled copper plate between them, and I don't know what that would do to your performance.

Wicked Klown
12-21-01, 03:46 PM
Oh not good don't want to drill. In the Bios is the same CPU temps 35C and case 33C.

Diggrr
12-21-01, 03:58 PM
Then I'd say the only way to go lower would be to lower the case temp. You've only got a 2 degree difference....maybe the new mobo changed your airflow. Really though, 35C is a good temp.
I've got 33C and 26C case temp, and I'm watercooled with a biga** heater core. Sounds like the temps are reasonable, just the old mobo reported too low. I wouldn't sweat it.

dugans
12-21-01, 04:06 PM
Definitely sounds like the mobo is the difference: cpu temp is still fine, so no problem there.

What is your case cooling? The temp isn't bad, per se, but most of my cases run around 26c to 30c.

Wicked Klown
12-21-01, 04:11 PM
I have three 80mm on intake and a 80mm on exhaust with a lot of openings.

dugans
12-21-01, 04:20 PM
Airflow is USUALLY better when intake and exhaust are close to equal. I stress usually because different systems get results that vary widely!

I get most of my rigs best with a little more exhaust than intake: I ignore the psu fan and try to match any other exhaust/intakes I put in. This seems to make up for loose areas in the case.

Big open holes in the case sometimes make things worse- airflow is no longer controlled I guess.

I do have one system that no matter what I do, the reported mobo temp is about the same as the cpu! I think there is a hot spot right where the sensor is, and after messing around with it a LOT I have given up: It is stable with a 150 fsb so....I just no longer care!

You might try messing around with the airflow though: just a thought!:)

Wicked Klown
12-21-01, 05:05 PM
When it comes to fans I'm a little limited to space. My tower is 23" high and 16" wide and on the left side I have a 9x12 window. So the olny intake I can have is the 80mm in the front of the case.

Yodums
12-21-01, 05:11 PM
Originally posted by Klownin79
When it comes to fans I'm a little limited to space. My tower is 23" high and 16" wide and on the left side I have a 9x12 window. So the olny intake I can have is the 80mm in the front of the case.

You shoudl really considering modding your case to have some more fans because you'll need it. That or improve your air flow being ran through your case.

From striping IDE cables to 1 wires and tubbing them.

Using twist ties on all those PSU Cables etc.

dugans
12-21-01, 05:28 PM
I have the same situation with my "hot" mobo rig: small case, 80 intake (low front), 80 exhaust (under psu) and the fan in the psu.

I have a delta 7,000 rpm on the hsf now and the temps are 35/35.

I even had a duct for the cpu at one point and had LOWER cpu temps than the mobo!

plague
12-21-01, 05:29 PM
Originally posted by Klownin79
When it comes to fans I'm a little limited to space. My tower is 23" high and 16" wide and on the left side I have a 9x12 window. So the olny intake I can have is the 80mm in the front of the case.
you could always put an intake on your window to blow some fresh air right onto your pci/vid card/cpu area. I'm not a big fan of how it looks, but it would do the job. Unless of course, you have some kind of etching.

Yodums
12-21-01, 05:30 PM
Or I'd save some cash for a full tower.

And then you can mod and mount like as many fans as you want.

Diggrr
12-21-01, 05:31 PM
You could put a fan in the middle of that window. That looks pretty sweet with a nice grill on it. You gotta drill carefully though, cause the plastic can chip/split easily. If it's a black light inside, there's paint that will make the blades glow. There's also fans with clear blades.

Yodums
12-21-01, 05:33 PM
Oh I forgot you can add blow holes and a fan at the top of the case right? Since those look very nice some have modded their case to have fans at the bay area.

And since you seem to be a modding guy I think this should be fun and very cool looking for you! :)

Wicked Klown
12-21-01, 06:32 PM
Ok 1st this is a full tower. I think I might get the Delta 80mm 80c.f.m and put that on my heatsink and put the Delta 80mm 68c.f.m on as the intake. I don't want to add a hole to the widows cause when I get the imte I'll be doing a dragon in the middle of it cause I think with the green strobes falshing it will really set off my rig. How bout this adding two 120mm fans on top as intake and the bottom fans be the exhaust. Will that work.

dugans
12-21-01, 06:54 PM
If you are going to add fans up top- make them exhaust- heat rises anyway, so you'll be working with nature!

Same on the bottom: intakes.

And like I said before, try to match up the intake/exhaust cfm fairly close.

I use cardboard panels to test airflow ideas as much as I can before cutting the case; this works great on cases that are ALL separate panels.

Yodums
12-21-01, 06:57 PM
rogerdugans is right.

Intake on the bottom front of the case, exhaust on the top and back of the case.

You should consider 300cfm airflow in your case I would recommend 400.

It doesn't matter what fan you put on your heatsink right now the point that it might be not taking in cool air thus making the heatsink warmer or still the same temperatures.

-Peace
Happy Holidays

Wicked Klown
12-21-01, 09:28 PM
Ok now to try to figure out a way to put more fans in a very small amount of space. I'll switch my to up top for exhaust.