L3/4/6/7 Bridges on a Duron

[Zag0r]

Few questions regarding their effects.

L7 = Vcore
L6 = Default multiplier
& L3/L4 affect L6 in some way.. ?

If I close all the L7 bridges, I'll have a Vcoe of 1.85 which can then be raised up to 2.05 in the BIOS... ?

I've read that 1.85 is the maximum that a Duron can take - so should I even try going above that? I have a 750, I'm trying to get to 1G. Running at 900+ would it be safe at 1.9-2.0v?

Also - going for a higher FSB, is increasing the DIMM Vcore risky - ie. could I fry the memory just by raising it a little?

[flounder43]

If your bios allows changing the vcore, you don't need to do anything to the L7's.

L3, 4, & 6 set the multiplier.

My Duron 750 runs at 1 gig 7.5 x 133 fsb and 1.85 volts on an ECS K7S5A.

Yes, it is possible to toast your memory by raising the voltage too high. I have run DDR at 2.7 since I got it (on another mobo), no probs...

For any further infomation, it would be helpful if you could post your complete specs...motherboard, psu, cooling, etc.

[Tiger]

Details of L functions can be found here;http://www.anandtech.com/guides/showdoc.html?i=1345
Linking all the L7's allows POST @ 1.85V thereafter the BIOS takes control. Some Durons don't like 133MHz, like mine and the mod is necessary. To my knowledge all mobos limit vcore to 1.85V in the BIOS but some show a higher reading e.g. MSI shows 1.96V. To get 2+V you would have to mod the mobo. Have seen a Duron moded to 2.02.
Increasing 3.3V is not risky but it is not always that helpful. Better quality RAM is a better option.

[eobard]

Originally posted by Zag0r
I've read that 1.85 is the maximum that a Duron can take - so should I even try going above that? I have a 750, I'm trying to get to 1G. Running at 900+ would it be safe at 1.9-2.0v?


I've had my Duron at 2.06v in the past. It was my crappy psu, not my chip, that eventually forced me to lower my voltage to it's current level (sig). A duron will take more than 2v, but not too much.

[Zag0r]

Soltek 75-KAV
1x 256MB PC133, 1x 64MB PC100
GF2 MX
300W Hyena PSU
Global Win FOP-38
Duron 750 - AKCA0042WPDW if that means anything?

CPU won't boot up at any other multipliers other than the default 7.5x & 8.5x.
The best stable operation I can get is 8.5 x 105 = 893.
7.5 x 133 = No POST
Can't get it to post at anything 133.
It posts at 7.5 x 124 then +7 MHz in BIOS, and is stable (@975), but if I reboot/shutdown the PC needs to be left off for a good 10 minutes before it will POST up and boot again. Completely fuxed.
Used 1.85v for everything. No periph drives.
And it never breaks 40'C on the motherboard moniter.

[The Coolest]

AKCA should be good overclockers, if I remember correctly u have a nice HSF, but what is the first character on the 3rd line, is it a letter or a number?
When I planed to buy a duron many guys told me I'll be better off w/ a 800 Duron instead of 750, dunno, I saw guys having those, higher than 1000Mhz...
Like Tiger said it could be that the Duron just won't put up w/ the high FSB.
Did u unlock the L1s to get the full use of ur multiplier? if so then try to set the FSB to 133 and multi to x5.5 to get 733MHz, the closest to 750, so it will work in spec speed, and check if its stable, if it is stable but won't do 133FSB at higher speeds then could be that ur chip is just not that good a O/Cer

[Tiger]

Originally posted by Zag0r
Soltek 75-KAV
1x 256MB PC133, 1x 64MB PC100
GF2 MX
300W Hyena PSU
Global Win FOP-38
Duron 750 - AKCA0042WPDW if that means anything?

CPU won't boot up at any other multipliers other than the default 7.5x & 8.5x.
The best stable operation I can get is 8.5 x 105 = 893.
7.5 x 133 = No POST
Can't get it to post at anything 133.
It posts at 7.5 x 124 then +7 MHz in BIOS, and is stable (@975), but if I reboot/shutdown the PC needs to be left off for a good 10 minutes before it will POST up and boot again. Completely fuxed.
Used 1.85v for everything. No periph drives.
And it never breaks 40'C on the motherboard moniter.
You will probably have to do the L7 mod. Also check your voltage readings as it could be that your PSU is not supplying enough power. If you are getting readings <1.8V on your vcore then you may have a problem. I have found that a PSU that cannot supply sufficient power can prevent POST.
I would be suspicious about your temp readings. Have you checked that the thermistor is pressing against the back of the die of your CPU.

[The Coolest]

Yea Tiger could be right, it seems very likely that ur temps might be on the hot side, no matter what MBM will say, cause high temps can prevent a POST too

[Zag0r]

D750AUT1B
AKCA0042WPDW
93280350312

It's got a decent amount of HTC, and a copper shim on it. I'll reboot and try attached the other MBM sensor directly next to the cpu core and see what temps I get. The HSF never gets more than warm to the touch though.
And if it was the heat preventing it from POST'ing @ 930 for a period of 10 or so mins - if I do a cold boot, then reboot, it should POST fine as it wouldn't be hot, but it doesn't.

I've closed all the L1 bridges. My MB has dip switches for the multiplier, and the FSB. Vcore is set via BIOS.

I can't see how the PSU would b the problem - I only have 2 HD's + FDD attached. No external case fans right now or anything.
I can run it at 1.85v no probs, and it reports as being 1.85v.

I can't get it to POST at ANY other multipliers save 7.5 & 8.5.
Not even lower ones x 100.
And I know people who have their Duron 750's at 1.1G, and 600's at 1G :/

[eobard]

Originally posted by Zag0r

I can't see how the PSU would b the problem - I only have 2 HD's + FDD attached. No external case fans right now or anything.
I can run it at 1.85v no probs, and it reports as being 1.85v.

I can't get it to POST at ANY other multipliers save 7.5 & 8.5.
Not even lower ones x 100.
And I know people who have their Duron 750's at 1.1G, and 600's at 1G :/

For the psu part I'd check the 5v value, not the cpu core.

For the multiplier I'd redo the bridges, just to make sure. I've done a less than good job with the L bridges and had only some of the multipliers be accessible.

Good luck.

[Zag0r]

With Vcore set @ 1.85V..
Vcore = 1.87
VDD = 3.33
3.3V = 3.22
5V = 4.95
12V = 12.12

I've re-done my L1 bridges at least 5 times, with the results always being the same :(

Running now @ 930 (7.5 x 124) the HSF is only slightly warm to the touch. I can't check the motherboard temp because doing so when the Vcore is at anything other that 'default' in the BIOS causes the PC to reboot the second giveio.sys is called :/

[eobard]

Well I'm out of ideas, other than the chip or board being bad. 4.95v should be easily good enough to do the job and even I wouldn't screw up 5 pencilings (4 perhaps :beer: ). My well is dry on this one, sorry.

[The Coolest]

I'm pretty out of idias as well, but ur chips seems to have a 9 as the first char on 3rd line, letters are known to overclock somewhat better than the numbers. I had to up my durons Vcore from default at 950 after a 150MHz increase on my Duron. And my T-Bird won't do over a 130Mhz increase stable, my duron is a 'Z' and my T-Bird is a '9', so that could be holding u back.

[Tiger]

Originally posted by Zag0r
With Vcore set @ 1.85V..
Vcore = 1.87
VDD = 3.33
3.3V = 3.22
5V = 4.95
12V = 12.12

I've re-done my L1 bridges at least 5 times, with the results always being the same :(

Running now @ 930 (7.5 x 124) the HSF is only slightly warm to the touch. I can't check the motherboard temp because doing so when the Vcore is at anything other that 'default' in the BIOS causes the PC to reboot the second giveio.sys is called :/
Are these #s under full load? If its @ idle then it's no good. From my own experience the problem has been the PSU. I have very light load (2 HDD & 1 CD) and I eventually had to get an Enermax 350W.
I would have a go using 1.75V vcore. I would also mod your L7 bridges.

[Tiger]

This is really bugging me. The obvious question - I don't know this mobo or its specs but is it KT133 or KT133A?
But there is a clue in this statement: .It posts at 7.5 x 124 then +7 MHz in BIOS, and is stable (@975), but if I reboot/shutdown the PC needs to be left off for a good 10 minutes before it will POST up and boot again. Completely fuxed.
Something in your PSU is getting too hot and this is causing this. I am convinced that this is a PSU problem. I had exactly the same happen to me although the voltages appeared to be OK. Don't forget there is a very heavy load on POST and you don't have any readings during this time. I was getting the same symptoms until I got the Enermax 350 and then they all went away. My voltages were fine but POSt was a problem. Same with the previous PSU