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Mounting RAD on top of case

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Vagabond102

Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2007
Location
Portland OR
Hello,

I'm looking to mount my rad on top of my case with the barbs hanging off the back.

For those that have done this, what did you use in hardware for spacers to lift the rad up off the top of the case enough to have fans mounted below in a push config while still having enough breathing room to suck cool air?

I've a BIPIII I'll be mounting. I'm considering getting the QP320 to replace it before I even do it, but I'm busy trying to figure the performace increase for doing so.

Also, do they make a PCI slot cover that has holes in it to route tubing through?
 
Yes they make a pass through but it's only for 3/8" tubing. Most people just drill holes or use existing ones to route the tubing back into the case though.

Most people tend to either use gutted fans or simple bolts and nuts mounted through the top of the case to the radiator.
 
Hrm. Something I should have considered prior to the build. I'm using 7/16". I'd rather not have to cut out 2 large holes in the case, the 4 I'm already planning for screw holes is already more then I want to go.

I might just have to break down and get another case and give the lian-li to the fiance.

Also, I'm kind of looking for ideas for the spacers. I'd rather this look as clean as possible, so I don't want exposed bolts holding it up.
 
You could remove the motherboard tray and drill the holes in the back of it. This would make minimal permanent impact on the case should you ever ditch water cooling.
As for the hole you "have" to drill in the top, I'm sure you could think creatively and find a way to avoid them. I once used NdFeB(Neodymium) magnets from an old Hard Drive to hold a T-line to the side of my case. Granted, this exact method won't work well for Aluminum, I'm sure some high quality double sided adhesive (maby even RTV) will hold your radiator to the top of the case fine.
PS: for Ideas, head up to the small/random parts section of your local Lowes/Home Depot.
 
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=517651&highlight=dan's

I used 1" nylon spacers from lowes, painted them black to match. Granted, this requires drilling holes, but there's now good way IMO to mount on top a rad without drilling holes. As for the getting the hose in the back, you could cut out one of the metal bits in between the PCI slots, over doubling the size and allowing more than enough room to run those tubes. It wouldn't look much different if done decently.
Dan
 
I just came up with an exact solution to my suggestion:
I know, in the small parts bins, there are pieces that have a hexagonal outside, and inside they are threaded. The ones I've seen are brass
I also know that you can find some plain metal stock around too. The stock would only need to be between 1/2" and 1" wide. I would chose 1" for extra stability, but it will be harder to bend.

Instructions:
1. Go around and buy the stock metal(You can determine the length you need by your own preference and ability), four of the threaded thingies, quality epoxy(anything designed for metal, you might want some thats paintable to match your case), and some high strength double sided foam tape stuff.
2. Bend the stock metal into the square, with two sides overlapping on the top.
3. Clean and sand the facing surfaces of the two overlapping top sections.
4. Mix a small batch of the epoxy and glue them together. *wait to dry*
5.
A) Once dry, drill the smallest hole possible that will fit the threaded rod pieces.
B) If you have access to a drill press USE IT and while drilling the small hole make a slight impression on the bottom of the square.
6. Clean and sand and clean the inner top and inner bottom of the squares.
7. Mix up a larger batch of epoxy, and place a small glob of epoxy under the hole you drilled earlier. If the epoxy is not clear, perform step 8 first.
8. Place the hexagonal rods in the drilled holes. If you used a drill press, use the mark made earlier to position them perfectly vertical. If not, take your time and position them as vertical as possible.
9. Give the epoxy holding the base of the rods enough time that it is no longer extremely fluid. Then, apply the epoxy to the underside of the square, where the the hole is.
10. Let dry before going on.
11. (Optional) Painting! Most of the painting part is fallowing the paints instructions, However, I would use a screw threaded into the rod to hold the newly made bracket while painting it. This not only gives you a place to hold the bracket from, but protects the threads from paint.
12. Attaching to computer. To attach these to the computer I would first attach one side of the foam to the underside of the brackets, leaving the other side covered so it won't stick to the case(yet). Then I would assemble the brackets to the radiator, and use a pencil to mark where to attach them.

13. Enjoy a securely attached radiator that will leave a case thats unmarred if you really want them off.

PS: you might find something thats more or less exactly this in the misc parts drawers.
 
Thanks for the suggestions!

I don't mind the 4 holes I'm going to drill in the case as it is, I just wanted to avoid 2 1" holes for the tubing, but I might have an idea for that. I think I'm just going to use some C brackets, or modify my own iron into C brackets, sand and paint them. I'm thinking that I'm going to try my hand at design etching, I've a talanted person willing to help me.

Why not point the barbs of the rad toward the front, facing up? Then run the tubes through a modified drive bay cover in the top slot. It's different then others that all run into the back, and would look like some feelers of a bug or something. I could even paint eyes and a smile on the cover. :)

I've a buddy who paints. He's been doing it for years, but he's just now going to school to get official and all that. He's going to paint my case for me free of charge. I think i'm gonna have him do a transformed version of the new Transformers Bumblebee. We'll see.

I fear this is quickly going from a "Lets just get the WC stuff installed and go" to a "Lets just add this, a dab of that, maybe this" to a fully modded case. I doubt it though, I don't have the tools or the time.
 
I think you'd be best off just having two holes in the top of the case where the barbs are, or two in the back where you can't see them. It's definitely the easiest way to do so. You can add grommets to make it look like a factory job.

You MIGHT be able to fit 5/8" OD tubing through a PCI bracket... It'd be very iffy though, I personally wouldn't trust it.
 
I did some fitting tonight to see what would work, and having that tubing run through a pci bracket would be a bad idea. (No, make that terrible) The tubing would have to be really squished to even get through an open slot let alone a bracket.

I've determined where the micro res will go. I just need to figure out where I'm going to drill the tubing holes now. Then it's go time.
 
You could drill holes next to pci slot and run tubing through it.

This is setup with my case.

Ver 1.

antec.JPG


Ver 2.

antecv.jpg
 
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