A little update

I had planned on putting together my water cooling project this weekend. It was to be a MCR320/655/Apogee Gt internal with the exception of the Rad being mounted with a Rad box. I started assembling and quickly ran out of space. I had intended on running most of my wires behind the mobo but came up short on the funds for a Dremmil(forgot my tags and inspection were due). The biggest culprit was the 24 pin cable infringing on the space the not so small pump needed. Then there was no room left for the T line. I just gave up and made it external.

Now I have this contraption strung across the top tier of my desk and my fiance walks in and is now firmly convinced I am nuts. Now for the problems: I have a barb on my rad that has a slow drip to it. Nothing like tearing it apart already to reaply some Teflon tape. Also the back plate I ordered won't work with the hardware I have so I am just using the stock mounting solution that I am less that thrilled with. Hang with me I am getting there.

My comuter is now refusing to boot as well. Hopefully with the moving around it just doesnt like the new SATA order and will let me reinstall windows without issue. Which leads me to the next point of tempts. I am getting a BIOS idle temp of 35C with a room temp of about 25-26C. I am a little weary of reinstalling my OS without a way to monitor the temps.

I may try to reinstall the OS when I get home(at work now) in the mourning. It is going to be Wed or Thurs before I will ge able to fix the drip. It seems like everytime I start a project something goes to hell.

Not much to say, I would try a remount on the WB but you're in no real danger since these chips are good to 60+c. Other than that, BOOMER!!!!
Dan

That temp is fine. Mine idles about 10c over ambient. Where you know if your watercooling is doing its job is in idle vs load temps. If you are under 10c idle/load, you watercooling is working. A good system will run in the 5c or less idle/load range depending of course on heat load and additional blocks beyond just the CPU.

Watercooling is all about planning. The first couple of setups I had took me forever to put together and looked lousy compared to what I have now, but now I can plumb the thing in my mind and make it work with no problem at all. Do this a couple of times and it will become a breeze for you.

The Thermalright backplate works very well with just a bit of thread tapping to fit the WB screws. (ie. http://www.svc.com/lga775rm-21.html)

voigts said:

The Thermalright backplate works very well with just a bit of thread tapping to fit the WB screws. (ie. http://www.svc.com/lga775rm-21.html)

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Thats what I got for it but the screws from the apogee are not compatible. At the time I did not have time to figure out the size screw I needed to get. What is the proper threading and length?

ou_phidelt said:

Thats what I got for it but the screws from the apogee are not compatible. At the time I did not have time to figure out the size screw I needed to get. What is the proper threading and length?

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If you use thermalright backplate you would have to make holes larger in the plate or buy screws similar to d-tek's fuzion mounting hardware.

I am getting a little confused. On the backplate it as screw receptacles pressed into it. So do I need to drill those out and get the d-tek kit or try an figure out what size screw would be is needed for that receptacle. Will the d-tek fit or will it still need to be drilled out. I would prefer to not have to order the d-tek's as my system has been down long enough as is. Would a solution of different screws and the springs that came with the apogee work?

Just for fun I left the didn't OC but set the Vcore to 1.4 just to see what would happed and it shot straight into the 60's at the start of orhtos. I know its the mount of the waterblock thats at fault. Everything else appears to be fine.

ou_phidelt said:

I am getting a little confused. On the backplate it as screw receptacles pressed into it. So do I need to drill those out and get the d-tek kit or try an figure out what size screw would be is needed for that receptacle. Will the d-tek fit or will it still need to be drilled out. I would prefer to not have to order the d-tek's as my system has been down long enough as is. Would a solution of different screws and the springs that came with the apogee work?

Just for fun I left the didn't OC but set the Vcore to 1.4 just to see what would happed and it shot straight into the 60's at the start of orhtos. I know its the mount of the waterblock thats at fault. Everything else appears to be fine.

Click to expand...

Just take the screws to an ACE hardware or any hardware store and spend a few bucks on a thread tap to tap out the holes on the backplate.