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Which tygon tubing?

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Elluzion

Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2007
Location
[NorCal]
looking for tubing for my new WC setup,

What size tubing is recomended?? for :

D-Tek Fuzion CPU Block
Mcp 655 water pump (or whatever its called)
Swiftech MCR320-QP-K Triple 120mm Radiator

what size tubing >? 7/16 id? what od? I want it to be a bit tight.
 
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Adn if you don't want or need clear tubing, I would recommend this Tygon R3400 black tubing for use in your loop. It's great for keeping the greenies from growing in your loop because it's almost impervious to light transmission, totally blocks UV light and is easy to work with and route in your case. I just used this in my watercooled rig and love the stuff. I also think it looks great in the case too. :cool:
 
The 11/16" OD does resist more, but the 5/8" doesn't kink much as it is. I don't see why the 11/16" would be more beneficial unless you really need some VERY tight bends. Plus with the 5/8" OD, you can use Swiftech Smartcoils/coolsleeves to resist kinking.
 
Yeah good points. I guess I prefer the fatter look, and Smartcoils are so hard to put on, I prefer zip ties.
 
Can't say I've used smartcoils so I wouldn't know (I've never had any trouble with kinking). I do personally prefer the sleeker look of the 5/8" OD.

Oh, and OP, are you hellbent on Tygon? I've never used it, but I wouldn't hesitate to tell you to save some cash and get a ton of MasterKleer as opposed to Tygon. I've been using it with no troubles at all. I'm not sure how much better Tygon is, but I personally can't justify spending nearly $2/ft on tubing. For the record, MasterKleer 7/16"x5/8"OD sells for roughly $0.48-$0.50/ft at McMaster-Carr. I know when I bought my MasterKleer it was.... $0.28/ft? Very cheap at the time. Now it's still cheap, but not as cheap as it used to be. I've had no problems with it so I will continue to buy it.
 
7/16" is good, but a nightmare to get on (need to use boiling water) and needs to be cut off.

I wouldnt bother paying the extra for tygon, just go with some masterkleer - I'm using a combination of masterkleer 7/16" and Tygon R-3603 and the masterkleer makes bends much easier.
 
7/16" is good, but a nightmare to get on (need to use boiling water) and needs to be cut off.

I wouldnt bother paying the extra for tygon, just go with some masterkleer - I'm using a combination of masterkleer 7/16" and Tygon R-3603 and the masterkleer makes bends much easier.

I completely disagree with you. I just recently disassembled my rig (getting a new one), and that involved tearing down my WC loop. I did not cut off a single piece of 7/16" tubing off any of my parts. This includes my 5/8" OD copper pipes on my Bonneville heatercore. The boiling water doesn't make anything that much of a hassle, just gotta soak it for maybe 30 seconds then pull it out and slip it over the barbs. If it's really that hard, you can cut flanges on the end of the tubing.
 
I completely disagree with you. <snip>
I'm using masterkleer 7/16" from CPU->GPU->Res, getting the tubing onto Swiftech plastic barbs was hard enough, but there is no way they're coming off - they have to be cut. On the metal DD barbs, I could probably spend ten minutes prying the tubing off without damaging it but I'd rather cut it, save ten minutes and lose 1" of tubing.

I suppose I exaggerated about the boiling water, it's not exactly a nightmare, but a minor inconvenience :beer:
 
I'm using masterkleer 7/16" from CPU->GPU->Res, getting the tubing onto Swiftech plastic barbs was hard enough, but there is no way they're coming off - they have to be cut. On the metal DD barbs, I could probably spend ten minutes prying the tubing off without damaging it but I'd rather cut it, save ten minutes and lose 1" of tubing.

I suppose I exaggerated about the boiling water, it's not exactly a nightmare, but a minor inconvenience :beer:


Those swiftech plastic barbs (on the microres) are a PITA to get off, but it is possible. It only takes 10-20 seconds to get off each tube from a barb, depending on the barb, plus it eliminates any need for clamps. IMO, it's the equivalent of using a worm-drive clamp + 1/2" tubing. The time spent taking the 7/16" off is about the same as loosening a clamp, moving it, and taking the 1/2" off.
 
Adn if you don't want or need clear tubing, I would recommend this Tygon R3400 black tubing for use in your loop. It's great for keeping the greenies from growing in your loop because it's almost impervious to light transmission, totally blocks UV light and is easy to work with and route in your case. I just used this in my watercooled rig and love the stuff. I also think it looks great in the case too. :cool:

Yeah i was looking at the black and it looks good. and as you said no greenies. :D
 
Question: Is it bad if water sits in the water pump but does not run? will it hurt it?

Also, How do you clean a water pump??? like the MCP665
 
I suppose the only benefit between the black Tygon and the Silver is the silver as an anti-microbial? Both prevent light from passing through.
 
Question: Is it bad if water sits in the water pump but does not run? will it hurt it?

Also, How do you clean a water pump??? like the MCP665
I cant imagine water sitting in the pump is going to 'hurt' it.

You can take apart the MCP655, you just unscrew the front and then you have access to the impeller and so can clean any crap out of there :)
 
I wouldn't worry about the water inside the pump unless you plan to store it in sub-freezing temps. I would close the ends up with electric tape or something like that though, if you are worried about dirt or creepy-crawlies getting inside the fluid end. I wouldn't take the fluid end apart just to get the water out of it.
 
Just saying this because I was gnna buy a MCP655 from a guy who has been running it for 2 years and had the water sit for 6months. for $45 bucks. Is it worth it???
 
I don't see why it should be hurt just because it has sat for 6 months without running with a little water in the fluid end. If you are worried about that, just mix you up some water with some vinegar in it and drop a hose in the water with some tubing and circulate it around for a while. That should flush the fluid end out pretty thoroughly and the acetic acid in vinegar shouldn't hurt the impeller or seals. I would be very hesitant to do this with clorox though as it is very hard on rubber products such as seals. But I would think it would be a good buy for $45 if there is no other problem with it.

Personally I'm an Eheim and Iwaki man myself. 120v pumps don't scare me and I know that these 2 pump lines are reliable as hell. Not to say the 12v pumps aren't reliable but I've got 11-12 year old Eheim fish cannister filters that have needed no maintenance since I bought them (besides cleaning). I recently bought a pci pump controller out of the Classies for $8 so my watercooled rig is all automatic when I hit the power button, just like using a 12v pump. And I don't have to worry about how much power the pump is drawing from my psu.
 
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