Some water cooling pics

[Badger]

Just got my new water-cooled Abit KR7 / XP1800 / Geforce 3 rig up and running, i thought maybe some of you guys may be interested in a few pics:

It's got home made blocks on the cpu and Geforce, each with 153W pelts, Ehiem pump, Heater core Rad and lots of other home made bits and pieces (check out the carbon fibre hold-down)

[Badger]

This is the geforce3

[Badger]

And this is a view inside the case, I'm just waiting on some round IDE cables to tidy it all up

[Diggrr]

Nice...

Never saw a bulletproof holdown before...

How are the temps doing?

With 153 watt peltier on the graphics card, isn't the screen always blue?...brrrrrr.

How's the condensation without insulation around the socket itself?

[Badger]

Temps are 20 to 28 C for the XP1800 @1743MHz/1.85V and about 20 C (according to Asus probe) for the geforce.
The cpu temps are about what I expected but the geforce temps are higher than you might expect, either the Geforce produces loads of heat or maybe the Asus Probe temps are off. Either way the Geforce clocks to 280MHz so it's working OK.

No condensation problems at all, I've been running a similar set-up on a PIII (temps down to minus 26C) and never had any condensation trouble in 18 months of operetion. I use a special cold plate which lets me get some insulation between the cold plate and the socket, so the socket should never get cold.

Here's another pic

[Diggrr]

Nice Cold plate.

I'd been thinking about doing this, having the cold plate tapered like yours is. I've got the copper and the peltier, and two different power supplies, and a very nice oversized heater core(using it now).
Maybe I am smarter than I look..uh, wait.

Do you goop up the pins, or leave as is. (Sorry for the questions, but I haven't seen it done without enough insulation to make an Eskimo jealous)

I've been thinking about the gpu's heat. That's what Intel is claiming as one reason for the WTX standard. (kind of an upside down atx...nearly almost.)

[The Overclocker]

very nice, but why is you gpu block copper and your cpu one isn't? (appart from the cold plate)

[Badger]

I have found there is no need to 'goop' the pins, or at least I have never had any trouble without the goop.

The reason for the Alu cpu block and the copper gpu one is very simple, I made the cpu block first and I did not have any copper thick enough !!!.
From my experience i'd say the choice between copper and Alu makes so little difference that it's not worth worrying about. The aluminium in fact has one big advantage, it's much lighter than copper, so you can afford to make the block so much bigger before the weight gets out of hand, bigger block = more wetted surface area = better heat transfer.

Please note!, I don't want to start a argument over the benifits of one material over another (been there before), I'm just passing on my experience, I expect others have found different results.

[The Overclocker]

Originally posted by Badger
I have found there is no need to 'goop' the pins, or at least I have never had any trouble without the goop.

The reason for the Alu cpu block and the copper gpu one is very simple, I made the cpu block first and I did not have any copper thick enough !!!.
From my experience i'd say the choice between copper and Alu makes so little difference that it's not worth worrying about. The aluminium in fact has one big advantage, it's much lighter than copper, so you can afford to make the block so much bigger before the weight gets out of hand, bigger block = more wetted surface area = better heat transfer.

Please note!, I don't want to start a argument over the benifits of one material over another (been there before), I'm just passing on my experience, I expect others have found different results.

Aluminum works better for me in both cases of running on a 950MHz celeron and a duron. probably because they didn't put out much heat