Case/radiator idea, would it work?

Ok, so I decided that I need a new rig, and I want it to be watercooled because I'm getting sick of loud category 5 tornado fans attached to a heatsink that weighs 4 pounds bolted to a PCB.

Currently the only decided system specs right now are an 8800GT(because it's on the way to my doorstep in a week or two), and some Intel c2d CPU. The motherboard I'll leave up in the air till later when it's time to purchase that.

So in digging through information, I realized that I wanted to try and keep everything contained in or around 1 case. No reserator sitting off to the side. I also don't want to buy a koolance kit, because that seems to be the easy way of doing it, and I don't wanna do that either.

So I'm thinking a Thermaltake armor case(unless there's something comparable and cheaper), and a pair of Swiftech MCR220's. Now I know I can mount 1 of the rads to the rear 120mm fan mount on the rear of the chassis using a radbox, and I saw the idea of using velcro to put the other rad in place in the drive bay area.

I'm thinking this should work, if there's some reason why it won't, this is why I'm asking you guys(been a lurker for ages here).

Now what I'm thinking with this layout, is that if everything fits into the case, the 2 rads, the pump, drill a hole in the top and add a fill hole for a t-line running to the bottom, is that I can alternate the CPU and GPU waterblocks with the 2 raidiators. So something like pump -> cpu -> rad 1 -> gpu -> rad 2 -> pump. Allowing me to get the water cooler before it gets to the next block. I can't find any info regarding such a configuration, so that's the other thing I'm hoping you guys might be able to give me some input about.

For fans, I'm thinkin 4 120mm silenx fans for the radiators, and another 92mm silenx for the drive caddy in the rear. Should end up quieter than the current screamer on my big typhoon. Plus since I intend to track down an armor case that doesn't have that useless 25cm fan in the side, the solid panel should help with noise as well.

Probably that swiftech mcp655 pump.

No plans to go SLI(nvidia doesn't seem to care about the lack of multimonitor output while trying to game, and I'm not going to deal with a third card for that), and I might consider adding a block for the northbridge on whatever board I end up getting.

What's the verdict?

Assuming you can get everything to fit in the case, the best route would be the one that gives you the shortest tube length/fewest bends. Besides that, if I were you, I would do something more like pump -> rad1 -> cpu -> rad2 -> gpu -> pump, so that the water is fresh out of the rad when it hits the cpu, and the second rad shedding more heat before it hits the gpu.

Also what you could do, is get two smaller pumps, something like the ddc and make two independent loops, so the cpu doesnt heat the gpu, and vice-versa.

As far as fans go, just pick up the yate loons with the ball bearings from jabtech. They are quiet enough and push plenty of air.
http://www.jab-tech.com/YATE-LOON-120mm-Case-Fan-D12BL-12-Low-Speed-Ball-Bearing-pr-3772.html

But whatever you do, always remember to post pics

just like this

Most motherboards don't need a waterblock on the Northbridge at all especially given the heatpipe cooling that most MBs are using.

When it comes to routing, as was mentioned, the route that is the simplest, shortest, and goes generally from top to bottom and back to top in a circular fashion is the desired route. It makes very, very little difference if the rad is before a block or not as the loop will hit an equilibrium. Most loops only have .5c or less difference between parts of the loop in water temp. That being said, if you can get the simplest, shortest loop going pump-rad-cpu-rad-gpu-pump, then great. I personally prefer using one triple rad over two double rads as it makes for a much easier tubing routing and less restriction.

As for quiet, the MCP655 is quiet to most people, but at 34db it is very noticeably louder than the MCP350. The MCP350 with Petras top will give you almost the same or the same performance as the MCP655 will at only 24-26db. CrazyPC has the MCP350 for only $65, so that and a top will only set you back about another $15 over an MCP655.

SilenX fans are a rip-off. Go with the Yate loons from Jabtech.

voigts said:

It makes very, very little difference if the rad is before a block or not as the loop will hit an equilibrium. Most loops only have .5c or less difference between parts of the loop in water temp. .

Click to expand...

What he said.
Most loops with good flow it's 0.25 *c. Short is good.

And you may want to read this: http://www.over-clock.com/ivb/index.php?showtopic=20277

I figured as much about the system hitting an equilibrium, it's not like a pump should be generating so much heat that the water needs cooled when coming out of it. So yea, I can adjust the order as needed.

Good catch on those yate loon fans, I'll have to keep them in mind, as well as the advice on the pump.

Don't wanna go with 2 pumps, as I'd be lookin' at packing more into the case than I already am.

I thought about the triple rad vs the 2 doubles, but I just don't see how I'd manage to cram one into an armor case without pulling out a hole saw(after a bad mod attempt years back, I really don't want to try and cut a hole somewhere to mount a triple).

If you WERE going to cut a hole in your case, you might as well bite the bullet and see if you could fit a 120.4... =)

Is there any way that you could fit a 120.3 onto the radbox instead of going for a pair of 120.2s?

SilenX fans are great case fans, but they do cost 4 times what they should, not to mention the fact that they are very low pressure, and therefore bad for use with a radiator. Yate Loons (or any rebranded variant) are great.

I don't see how a 120.3 would fit without hanging way too low(not looking to have to set the case on something). As heavy as this SOB is going to end up, I'm going to want to be able to pick it up and set it down in one piece.

Unless it was possible to mount the 120.3 using the center fan mount, but at that point I wouldn't want to end up having a kink in the hoses to bend them upwards to the top of the radiator. The thought did cross my mind(for cost and complexity), but I'd also end up running the hotter water through the gpu from the cpu, or vice versa before hitting a radiator with the single 120.3.

A 120.4 wouldn't work in the top of the armor either, as I'd lose the top drive bays, the rear drive caddy, and wouldn't know where to stick the psu at that point.

I'm also seeing an advantage in the armor from the top rear mounted hard drive rack, so that'd be less hot air being blown across the other components in the case.

Idea #2. This time a CM stacker 810 case. From the looks of it, I could mount a front 240 and rear 240 radiator internally, and have the fans on them blowing out the front and rear of the case. The giant vent on the side should would as an air intake.