First Time WC system, but not messing around either :)

Hi Everyone, I have been doing some reading, and I needed a project to occupy my time so decided a WC system would be fun.

I'm not in a big hurry for a computer, as my current machine works just fine, but I got a deal on a QC6700 and an OS, so I figured now would be a good time to do some playing. I'm still open to ideas about a Motherboard for this processor if anyone has any input there.

As far as watercooling goes, and reading I kind have fallen for Swiftech products, just from literature of course, not experience. I have a design in my head that begs a few questions.

First a screenshot of concept:


Components Are:
Pump - Swiftech MCP655
Rad - Swiftech MCR320
CPU - Apogee GT
GPU - Swiftech Stealth Full Coverage (IF Compatibe with the new 8800GTS 512 cards)
Res - Swiftech MCRes - MicroRes
Chipset - Swiftech MCW320
Ram Cooling - Koolance RAM-30-V06
Tubing 1/2" ID everywhere except the Chipset and Memory loop being 3/8"

I'm going to start with this case:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage...+Case&lp=1&type=product&cp=1&id=1183160363476

..and hack away with my little metal tools (used to be a paintball airsmith, I have the skills to do this.) And open up the holes for the radiator in the top and such. The power supply location in the bottom of the case should make for enough room at the top of this case to mount it.

I was wondering if the branch to the Chipset and Ram in this system, would work even though I understand that the best probably way to maximize everything is probably to set-up a short 3/8" system to handle the Chipset and Ram with like a MCR120 mounted to the back of the case.

Another quick question, do most of you build drains into the systems, I haven't seen much on it, I understand the reservoir will handle any air problems, but should anything need to be moved a drain would be nice how do most go about it.

Any other advice would be appreciated. Want to have some fun and want to get it working flawlessly, give me the ability to play with some overclocking features as well

to the forums!!!

If you run parallel, you run a high chance of having little to no water flow through your chipset and RAM

I would say, just remove the chipset and ram from the loop. You can get air coolers for the chipsets and RAM that will hit the same temps and not mess up your loop

I had built a drain into my system by putting a ball valve at the lowest point in the loop. It made draining easier, but it got in the way all the time. To drain, just flip the case upside-down.

I would definately dump the Ram out of the loop.

If you do opt to cool the NB, run your loop in series. CPU -> NB -> GPU for example.

Like Thideras said, running things in parrallel can create pressure differentials and you run the risk of little to no coolant going though part of the loop.

I would also recomend running the same size tubing through out the loop. That way you aren't creating any unecessary restrictions.

And, glad to see another airsmith too!

I used to build AutoCockers way back in the day!

Welcome to O/C Forums!

I would agree with these gentlemen. Also you don't need Ram and chipset waterblocks unless you're going to overclock and pump mega voltages into that setup to break world records.

If you want active cooling on the ram:
Corsair

OCZ .

As for chipset, a good fan atop of it will do.

This will will free up space for the loop. Cpu & Gpu blocks will do more than enough, especially with the Swiftech MCR320 rad.

Jas said:

And, glad to see another airsmith too!

Click to expand...

Is there any other marker out there?

Yeah that would probably be best, as far as one series line, I know beter but I was just curious. Any suggestions on a MoBo for this thing, I want to play with some overclocking, but I'm not sure the G33 chipset board I got with the processor will lend itself nicely to this.

Any suggestions on WC components to change or even cases, I'm still looking, I saw your case Jas. Interesting, not sure it's exactly what I am looking for but worth looking into. I kind of have my mind set into hacking on something so, An Open case that lends itself nicely to this would be awesome if anyone knows of one.

Gilley7997 said:

Is there any other marker out there?

Yeah that would probably be best, as far as one series line, I know beter but I was just curious. Any suggestions on a MoBo for this thing, I want to play with some overclocking, but I'm not sure the G33 chipset board I got with the processor will lend itself nicely to this.

Any suggestions on WC components to change or even cases, I'm still looking, I saw your case Jas. Interesting, not sure it's exactly what I am looking for but worth looking into. I kind of have my mind set into hacking on something so, An Open case that lends itself nicely to this would be awesome if anyone knows of one.

Click to expand...

Did someone say watercooling case?

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g121/thideras/Computer mods/IMG_0906.jpg

Fully gallery here:
http://s55.photobucket.com/albums/g121/thideras/Computer mods/


That is easily the best case that I have worked with for watercooling. It also happens to be the only one that I've worked with for watercooling!!!

Well, I had a shot at a fairly inexpensive Antec 900 case. I picked it up. About to pop it open and see what I got to work with just to see if it will work. Any opinions, I know it will be a tight squeeze, but I will know more when I get it open, anyone have any experience with it?

Nevermind, screw the 900

thideras said:

...you lost me...

Click to expand...

This would be good.

Ok. So I have been thinking about this more, and that Rocketfish Case, Actually has all kinds of room and isn't all that bad, It will work out well.

I was also thinking about my set-up and the rad being at the top of the case exhausting outwards, laying with the length horizontal. When bleeding this system, I realize that I have know knowledge of the internal layout of the rad, but it occurs to me that Having it unmounted and resting in a poisition Veritcal with the Connections on the bottom would be ideal to bleeding it mounted horizontal. Just thinking outload I don't know anything.

I think this will work out pending some inverstigation on what to do with the new G92 8800GTS 512MB card that I have coming. They are new enough that there is no real compatability information out there yet for the GPA and Ram blocks, have to wait and see on those I guess. Unless someone has some insight here. But I think I have the materials lined up for the case Mods I plan on needing to get this done the way I would like. Haven't completely ruled out the need for either 90 or 45 degree fittings yet...have to get all the stuff here.

It's a pain to find one online retailer that has all the components available.

Gilley7997 said:

Ok. So I have been thinking about this more, and that Rocketfish Case, Actually has all kinds of room and isn't all that bad, It will work out well.

I was also thinking about my set-up and the rad being at the top of the case exhausting outwards, laying with the length horizontal. When bleeding this system, I realize that I have know knowledge of the internal layout of the rad, but it occurs to me that Having it unmounted and resting in a poisition Veritcal with the Connections on the bottom would be ideal to bleeding it mounted horizontal. Just thinking outload I don't know anything.

I think this will work out pending some inverstigation on what to do with the new G92 8800GTS 512MB card that I have coming. They are new enough that there is no real compatability information out there yet for the GPA and Ram blocks, have to wait and see on those I guess. Unless someone has some insight here. But I think I have the materials lined up for the case Mods I plan on needing to get this done the way I would like. Haven't completely ruled out the need for either 90 or 45 degree fittings yet...have to get all the stuff here.

It's a pain to find one online retailer that has all the components available.

Click to expand...

There are two ways to bleed a radiator that work the best. First, is to have it vertical, with the barbs at the top. Second it to have it horizontal, barbs pointed up, and it as the lowest point in the loop.

As far as cases go, Thideras and I both have the TT armor. Its a super tower, VERY big. You can mount a radiator in there without having to cut it up. But, if yo uare into hacking up a case, there are plenty of fun cases to hack up. Did I mention you can hack up the Armor?

You main consideration when it comes ot a case is where are you going to mount your radiator(s). If you want to REALLY have some fun with a case, get a full tower, and plan on cutting out either the bottom or top of the case, to mount the Radiator flush with the case.

I asume yo uwant a window right? If yo udind't care about a window, I would recomend getting a coolermaster RC-690. It's a "mid tower" but really it's full tower in disguise. And you could have some fun hacking that case up, tons of possibilities with it.

As for the 8800 GT 512 G92 card, go with ramsinks and a GPU only block, liek the Swiftech MCW60, or a danger den Maze 4 or maze 5.

Jas, you got exactly what I am going for with the radiator. It's going to be flush mounted internally to the top of the case, surpsiringly that Rocketfish case, I picked it up over the weekend, has the clearance from the board to the roof to accomplish this, and the length to take the 3x120mm Rad.

There's Rumors Going around that it is actually a rebranded Lian-Li case, I might actually believe it, it's sturdy as heck, and plenty of room, I plan on taking pics and keeping you guys updated as I go, I think I finally decided on a board for this thing,

And the Graphics card isn't the 8800GT, it's the new 8800 GTS 512MB by BFG, I don't know that anyone has gotten a hold of one yet to test waterblocks. I asked over on the swiftech forums actually, and they are guessing by looking at pictures that the VGA block they have will work. Not sure about there Ram cooler though. Have to wait and see.

As far as a case window goes, yeah there will be one. It may not be right now though, I have been looking at how I want to do it and want to make everything as clean as possible (That airsmith in me coming out again.) So I will probably do it with some H channel molding, and C channel molding around the Rad Hole in the top. Also thinking about taking the case out and giving the internals a good once over with a Flat Black paint. If were going to do this we might as well do it right.

Any other ideas you would like to see, let me know. There's something about a drain that keeps bothering me. Not sure why, but it's always in the back of my head as I'm planning this.

Why in the heck does this keep getting more expensive every time I talk about it.

Gilley7997 said:

Why in the heck does this keep getting more expensive every time I talk about it.

Click to expand...

Lol, it's not as bad as paintball though.... How often did you build a new marker, just to do so? I think at one point I think I had 5 Cockers, 2 mags, one LCD angel (main tourney gun), and about 10 or 12 "cheap" markers, Spyders, Pro lites, etc.

Then again, I do have a basement full of computer parts, at least most if not all those markers worked though....

Ok, back to the point. You can plumb in a drain line if you want to. I just disconnect the T lin intersection at the Pump. And let that drain, then just very carefully remove everything else.

How about this, define a "T-line" I have my own interpretations thus far from reading, want to hear what someone actually defines it as

And you shot an Angel over a cocker for Tourney's!! That makes me sad. I could never go back to anything after shooting the flat trajectory of a cocker, I tried, I just couldn't do it, F5 all the way.

Gilley7997 said:

How about this, define a "T-line" I have my own interpretations thus far from reading, want to hear what someone actually defines it as

And you shot an Angel over a cocker for Tourney's!! That makes me sad. I could never go back to anything after shooting the flat trajectory of a cocker, I tried, I just couldn't do it, F5 all the way.

Click to expand...

Well basically a T line uses a "T" connector. usually right before the pumps inlet. The two horizontal ends of the T are connected to the pump inlet, and the other one is fed from some othe rcomponent in the loop. Then the vertical portion of the T is a tub that runs strait up to the top of the case.
The verticle part of the T line is used to fill the system. At the end of it there will be some sort of cap to seal the system.

Take a look at my machine, I've sort of outlined in Blue the T line.



Comming from the right side o fthe case is a tube form the front radiator, that connects up with the T fitting, and goes strait to the pump. The verticle line of the T runs up to the top of the case where I have a Danger Den fill port installed.

The T line allows yout to fill and bleed the system.

As for the Angel, I was a tape runner, It was all about ROF. When I woudl play recreationally I would almost always play with a Cocker though.

T-Line , and drain suggestion:

billb said:

T-Line , and drain suggestion:

Click to expand...

Assuming T-line is used to fill, shouldn't T-line be placed just before the pump so that pump doesn't pump 'dry'? Unless the drainage line can double as a fill location?

Well just to give an update on the progress here.

I have modded the case, added the window to the front, Mounted the radiator at the top of the case, Fans Exhausting out.

In the process of ordering all the waterblocks and fluid actually.

Which brings me to the question I have for you all, what types of fluid do you use, and what additives. I'm pretty sure I'm going for a UV blue reactive type. I think it would work best. But curious what you all would recommend.

Oh and a better question. How much fluid do you need for say a 320 rad Full cover VGA card CPU and Northbridge. And the the runs from the top to the bottom of the case is about 20", so were making that trip about three times, with some additional loop length with 1/2" ID tubing.


I will get some pics up. I have been taking a few here and there.

One other question, I don't have an exact measurement, but anyone know of a block out there that would fit the south bridge of a GA-P35C-DS3R. It seems the hole pattern is tighter than what a MCW30 can support. I haven't verified that yet personally but that's the word I got from the swiftech forums.

Figured I would ask if anyone had tried it here.

Well I had to RMA my board, so the build is on hold, but I have the case set up and ready to get this thing going. Anyone have any opinions on the questions I previously posted.

And I have one more, I picked up the Frozen CPU fan controller and it hums ridiculously when they are turned down at all. Is it a product of the fans I have connected or just the controller, The Fans are just the 120mm that came stock with the case. If it's the fans, what can I connect to it, if it's the controller what would you suggest?