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View Full Version : Computer freezing/locking-up problem, help please


Snoopy
12-24-01, 07:35 PM
PIII 850 MHz, 100 MHz FSB, Slot 1, not oc.

Computer is freezing/locking up often under heavy load. On the same system a PIII 550 MHz - that heats up with 10C more under load compared with the 850 one - does not have any problem. Both processors have the Intel coolers but there is more than enough cooling in the case (always room temperature + maximum 5C after long super heavy load) and they are not overclocked.

Suspected the power supply and replaced the 250W one I had with an Antec 350W. Still there is only 4.81V..4.84V at idle for the +5V (4.78V under load) and just 1.6V at idle for the core voltage that shall be 1.7V for this 850 (there are other two versions that Intel describes 1.65V as required for, this one is x686 and it's described by Intel to need 1.7V, +- ~0.05V max). Under load the core voltage reaches 1.58V. Shouldn't be this way under spec?

Curiously with the 550 MHz processor (the one w/o problems) the +5V line is lower: always 4.81V at idle (with the 350W Antec supply) but still there is no freezing problem.

Removed all the fans, HDDs and CD/DVD-ROM drives and still the +5V line is the same (4.81.. 4.84V at idle). So it someone eats too much should be just the CPU and/or the video card.

MB is an Asus P3B-F with the 1.0.0.6 BIOS revision. It selects by default 1.7V for the core voltage. Tried to manually select 1.75V instead but got the same idle core voltage as when the default 1.7V is selected: 1.6V..1.66V maximum at idle.

A suspect is the video card.. a 1st generation GeForce 256 DDR that is famous for big power consumption if I know correctly. Before to call Intel and ask for a replacement under warranty for the PIII 850 I'll try to upgrade to a newer GeForce (thinking of a 3 TI200).

Is the 850 processor defective? Is anything else I could try to solve the freezing problem?

Thanks

Yodums
12-24-01, 10:07 PM
What are you using to load your temperatures?

What are your exact CPU temps before they crash?

The 550 of yours probably didn't run as hot as the most recent slot computers....


I need the exact temperatures could be a cooling problem.

MilkPowder-2
12-24-01, 11:49 PM
Snoop, don't worry about your +5V & +12V rail. Most people think that if your rails(+5V/ +12V) go below 5 and 12 and if they see unstability, they assume it's the low reading rails. That is wrong. What makes rails reading important is when there is sudden strong fluctuations in the rail that hits way below the safe range. Im talking those quicky instant split-second hit@ way below 4.50V@ +5V. Generally, fluctuations that doesn't hit below 4.50 is okay. Same thing applies to +12V. There acceptable fluctuation is about 5%. But I really really think it's not the voltage/ PSU related issue in your situation. You are having freeze ups. It is more likely the heat related. As what Tsunami said, Heat. Have you repeatedly tested the P3 550 and switch back to 850 setup over and over? Same result? You problem might be the HSF installation. I assume you installed the HSF to those CPUs right? P3 850s DO generate more heat than the P3 550s. Any little mistake on the HSF installation, you will get freeze ups. Try uninstall the HSF and clean off any thermal paste that was on there and apply ASII or some other thermal compound and reinstall HSF. If you already have done this, disregard what I said.

Snoopy
12-25-01, 07:16 AM
Thanks for replies!

Yodums
12-25-01, 07:54 AM
Milk, you haven't seen those damn Intel Slot coolers they are a pain to take off and I don't know if they can even but put back on, since you got to take the case screw and poke it with the screw driver at the back of the plastic cover for the heatsink to release.


If you don't plan to oc go find yourself a cheap slot 1 cooler like a Golden Orb or something and it should cool enough for stock speeds if your going to overclock then get the Alpha P3125 which is quite expensive!

Although if you do plan to take your heatsink off you'll see Intel's thermal pad all dried out on the heatsink and you'll barely see any of it on the chip so get some ASII and apply it on the core.

You'll also need case fans probably some exhaust and intake so your heatsink will be taking in cool air not cheesy hot air.

MilkPowder-2
12-25-01, 09:10 AM
Originally posted by tsunami
Milk, you haven't seen those damn Intel Slot coolers they are a pain to take off and I don't know if they can even but put back on, since you got to take the case screw and poke it with the screw driver at the back of the plastic cover for the heatsink to release.


Since I've been seeing lots of users with flip-chip versions nowdays, I overlooked that he's got a Slot1 P3. My fault on that part.. hehe :D However, why bother taking off the front plastic cartridge cover on his P3?? That's what it sounds like to me. You don't need to take all that off to re-install HSF. Intel Slot coolers are not pain to take off if you are talking HSF uninstallation. I thought you already know that stuff. :rolleyes: Btw, I own many of Slot1 CPU/coolers; P3 800EB, P3 600E, P3 700E for Slot1s.

CrystalMethod
12-25-01, 09:39 AM
Originally posted by MilkPowder-2


Since I've been seeing lots of users with flip-chip versions nowdays, I overlooked that he's got a Slot1 P3. My fault on that part.. hehe :D However, why bother taking off the front plastic cartridge cover on his P3?? That's what it sounds like to me. You don't need to take all that off to re-install HSF. Intel Slot coolers are not pain to take off if you are talking HSF uninstallation. I thought you already know that stuff. :rolleyes: Btw, I own many of Slot1 CPU/coolers; P3 800EB, P3 600E, P3 700E for Slot1s.

Only the retail boxed versions of the Slot1 are a pain in the ass to take off. The OEM versions are idiot proof. (Now that I've said that, someones going to go out and make a better idiot...). If he intends to ugrade his HSF, he may have to remove the plastic covers, that's where it's a pain in the ass. If he has the the OEM version, it's smooth sailing.

Yodums
12-25-01, 10:17 AM
Originally posted by CrystalMethod


Only the retail boxed versions of the Slot1 are a pain in the ass to take off. The OEM versions are idiot proof. (Now that I've said that, someones going to go out and make a better idiot...). If he intends to ugrade his HSF, he may have to remove the plastic covers, that's where it's a pain in the ass. If he has the the OEM version, it's smooth sailing.


That's exactly what I meant.

I had a P3 500 Retail and you have to apply so much pressure to the damn pins holding it and I felt that I was going to break the thing.