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will a car rad rely work?

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Ive seen it done. It is a little over kill ofcourse, but everything is on this site. I wonder how the flow through that rad is.

--pak
 
that would work but the size of the hose would have to be scaled down dramatically to flow through the water block, so the flow would SUCK. Heater cores are your best friend.
 
I never understood that.. Afterall PC radiators are so restrictive going with a larger diameter radiator (there for less heat transfer effective) but much less restriction that the hose transfer size should not matter.

But im no hydrodynamic scientist like many of the WCers here.

I would say dont use the car rad just because its not as effiicent though...(although a box fan would be better then 3 or 4 120mms ;))
 
lol i have just bught my first wc kit a Swiftech H20 APEX Ultra just looking at some other parts lol if u did have 9 120mm fans on that wow i would of thort that that would be the best i might be rong it comes with hose adapters
 
gocartman2 said:
im not sure theres a w/c pump for that kind of radiator, you would lose too much pressure vs. what you gain in cooling.

a bong is a much better overkill idea
Click to expand...

Exactly what I was thinking...I think that you would never get the flow you needed without a pump that was as dramatic as the radiator.......
 
You need to check with the seller to see if the rad is copper core or not. If it is aluminum, don't get it.

I watercooled with a copper core car rad for almost a year passively and it worked well. My temps were exactly the same running it passively as running a BIXIII with 6 yate loons on it at 7v ea.

That rad is a bit larger than the one I used, but there is no reason why with a decent pump like an MCP655 or MCP355 with petras top won't work well.

The only reason I changed to a PA120.3 is that I had a bit of extra money at the time, and I found a very rare deal on Danger Den and I got my PA120.3 new for only $105 shipped, and I wanted to change to an internal rad mounted setup instead of having a rad on the side of my PC (I built a custom case for my setup that I am still using).

This was my car rad setup:

front2.jpg

rear.jpg
 
Indeed, definitely just fine for our uses. Most radiators will be aluminum but racing radiators are often times made of copper. There's an unfinished build log here in the WC section where someone used an all copper Koyo racing radiator for their loop.
 
Moto7451 said:
Indeed, definitely just fine for our uses. Most radiators will be aluminum but racing radiators are often times made of copper. There's an unfinished build log here in the WC section where someone used an all copper Koyo racing radiator for their loop.
Click to expand...
Do you mean Zenjriou's Passive SLI rig?

I love that build, shame it never got finished. The noise from those delta's would of been unbearable though.
 
My lotus elise has an aloy rad holds only 4 L
(light weight and less water keeps the weight down = goes faster)

To buy a repalcement rad from lotus was cheaper than buying a thermochill rad from DD.
 
Mycobacteria said:
My lotus elise has an aloy rad holds only 4 L
(light weight and less water keeps the weight down = goes faster)

To buy a repalcement rad from lotus was cheaper than buying a thermochill rad from DD.
Click to expand...

But is that rad copper core Myco? Most rads these days are being made out of aluminum as it is cheaper than copper, and at 50% or more antifreeze that cars run due to boiling/freezing points, corrosion isn't the issue that we have to deal with at 5-10% concentrations.
 
"Alloy rad" would mean aluminum. So long as the engine will stay cool with an aluminum radiator, there's nothing wrong with it. Copper radiators are popular for racing applications because the engines are tuned way beyond what the power range a street car will have, often times with high levels of boost if it's a turbo motor. More power = more heat. Also sometimes the grill/louvers/duct size will be traded for aerodynamics and a copper rad can come in handy there. On stock cars they may only run a small slit (the rest of the grill being covered with tape) on a speedway or super speedway so a copper radiator can come in handy there (though most of the time they still use aluminum).
 
i dont understand why using a big rad would have an effect on flow.. water doesnt compress and if you fill the whole rad (like a res) you will get the same flow throughout ur loop. but i could be intirely wrong. lol
 
nd4spdbh2 said:
i dont understand why using a big rad would have an effect on flow.. water doesnt compress and if you fill the whole rad (like a res) you will get the same flow throughout ur loop. but i could be intirely wrong. lol
Click to expand...

A pump only has a certain head that it is rated for, like 6 ft of head. Gravity would limit this instance, but it's all about the weight of water at that point. A tremendous amount of water being pushed by the pump would most definitely limit it's flow rate. Aside from that, you would be going from 1/2 tubing to god know what size on a car radiator...talk about dribbling out the other end:beer:
 
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